• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.955-967
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• 1995

This study was performed to investigate the physical and chemical properties of the 5 kinds of fabrics dyed with persimmon juice and undyed fabrics. The difference between dyed and undyed fabrics was checked experimentally. Obtained results are as follows. 1. Bending length and flex stiffness were increased after dyeing, and tensile strength of waif i3l fabrics except Ramie was also increased. 2. Abrasion resistance was improved in Ramie and Hemp after dyeing but the rest of fabrics were decreased. 3. Crease resistance of dyed fabrics was roughly worse than that of undyed fabrics. 4. Air permeability remarkably increased after dyeing and this fact estabilished that the traditional Gal-01 was cool clothing. 5. Water repellency in Cotton 1 and Polyester rises but the rest of fabrics were not changed. Therefore it is found that this repellency related to the their fabric counts. 6. Blocking effect of UV light and visible ray was increased in all dyed fabrics. Especially dyed Cotton 1 and Polyester blocked UV light almost perfectly. 7. The colorfastness to soaping and sunlight was proved to less than 3 grade in all fabrics after dyeing. It indicates that this colorfastness became worse owing to dyeing. 8. The colorfastness to dry cleaning and water was decided to more than 3 grade in all fabrics. 9. The colorfastness of the dyed fabrics to sweat after exposing to man-made acid sweat solution was good so that was decided above 3 grade. However after exposing to man-made alkalic sweat solution it became worse owing to dyeing.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.306-311
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• 2001

Natural colorants haute attracted much attention all over the world because of their non-hazardous nature. The world is becoming increasingly aware of environmental Issues, such as ozone layer depletion, water pollution and waste disposal problems. The use of synthetic dyestuffs for their synthesis and application in the dyeing industries has been criticized due to introduction of contaminants into the environment. This has led to the desire to turn to the traditional, and more natural way of life. In this study, the colorants of extract of Ginkgo biloba bark were analysed and their dyeing properties on silk, wool and cotton were studied. It was found that uv-visible absorption spectra of extract of Ginkgo biloba bark showed two strong absorption Peaks in the range of 240 ∼400 In. From the result of IR spectra, the major ingredient of extract of Gikgo biloba bark seems to be the flavon which is one of the flavonoid derivatives. Silk, wool, and cotton dyed with the extract of Ginkgo biloba bark showed a reddish yellow color. Their color differences were increased drastically with repetition of dyeing by three times.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.59-63
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• 2003

This study aims at developing of textile design expressed not only Korean natural image but also modern sensibility using fabrics dyed by tie dyeing with various natural dyes. And it attempts to practicality of high value-added goods revived traditional beauty. With the aqueous extract of various natural dyes, i.e., indigo, amur cock tree, onion's peel, citrus peel, mugwort, gromwell, sappan wood silk fabrics dyed by tie dyeing. Also various color changes were examined by mordants, i.e., aluminium sulfate, cupric acetate mono hydrate, ferrous chloride. With these fabrics, I made works using the techniques of applique, mola, fabric's connection and weaving. I think the developed textile design gave expression to natural image of Korean nation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.781-791
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• 2004

Currently, as mordants, heavy metals are being used in dyeing process in order to improve dye uptake and dye fastness. These chemicals, however, are mostly harmful to human body and the environment along with the pollution by effluent. Traditionally, rice straw ash solution, lime, etc. have been used as mordants in order to improve the effects on dye uptake and color fastness of dyestuffs. The study of natural mordants would, therefore, be vital to the development and succession of our traditional dyeing methods. In this study, as a preliminary step toward the use of rice straw ash solution for the nautral dyeing using Caesalpinia sappan, several aluminum compounds were employed as mordants. When the purified aluminum compounds were used, on the basis of unmordanted cotton fabric, the K/S values of the pre-mordanted and simultaneously mordanted fabrics increased by 2 or 3 times, while those of the post-mordanted fabrics decreased.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.149-163
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• 2011

Hanjisa(Korean paper yarn), a new material made from the traditional Korean paper, has been developed through local R&D efforts, reflecting the current trend highly valuing environmental friendly. This new material is considered suitable for the 21C lifestyle and culture pursuing improved quality of human life and the environment. Therefore, this study aims to widely make known the originality and functions of the environmentally friendly Korean paper yarn, as well as to increase its commercial value. Furthermore, a new category of apparel design is presented by studying painting dyeing based on transformational tuck techniques and wax resist dyeing with formative features of repeated lines and rhythms of shells in order to implement three-dimensional and decorative artistic expressions. The texture of the Korean cotton paper yarn was particularly suitable to employ tuck and dyeing techniques Which express formative features of shell. Also, the material was useful for expressing the three-dimensional feelings with repeated curves and cross sections of shells. Moreover, paraffin resist dyeing and stitch techniques were used in order to avoid monotony and the images of shells visually materialized. Through the results stated above, this study could explore how to overcome obstacles to globalization of the Korean modern apparel such as its uniqueness, limit of materials or absense of internationality by applying modern design to the Korean paper fabrics. In the future, it is expected that more manufactures could produce and supply the new materials so as to make widely known the originality of the Korean paper fabrics and develop the material into a popular organic product fitting the modern lifestyle.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.79-94
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• 2013

In this study, the teaching-learning materials and the plan using persimmon juice dyeing, which is one of the traditional natural dyeing methods of Korea, were developed for the purpose of inspiring further awareness of our traditional clothing life-culture. A questionnaire was designed to make a survey on the educational effect, and t-test and Kruscal-Wallis test were conducted to test the significant differences between pre- and post-lessons. A correlation analysis between culture awareness and its education awareness was also done. These prototypes were applied to high school Technology Home Economics classes under the theme, 'Making living goods with persimmon juice dyed fabrics'. Examining the changes in students' awareness of traditional images, and changes in their interest and attitude towards learning in those classes led to the following results. First, as a result of applying LT cooperative learning in order for an understanding of the formation of clothing life-culture and the process of persimmon juice dyeing, many original handicrafts with modern sense were created. Second, a comparative analysis between pre- and post-lessons on the change in students' degree of awareness of traditional clothing life-culture and its education showed that students' awareness had risen after the class; the data was collected from three separate sample groups which had been clustered according to their initial degree of awareness, i.e. high, middle, and low, and the group that scored the lowest before the class showed the greatest improvement. Third, feedback surveys on 'Making living goods with persimmon juice dyed fabrics' classes returned with scores greater than 'moderate', thus revealing that the students' concern and interest towards traditional clothing life-culture hae been enhanced through the class experience. Their attitude had also become more positive. Fourth, since learners with more awareness of the traditional clothing life-culture also showed more awareness of the need for an education designed to promote the culture, a positive correlation between the two had been found. As explained above, the teaching-learning materials and the plan that had been developed for this study has caused a deeper understanding of the value and significance of the traditional natural dyeing and clothing life-culture, and has therefore brought about an educational effect that powers idea creation.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.2
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• pp.254-267
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• 2019

Clamp resist dyeing is a resist dyeing technique in which a fabric is sandwiched between two or more pieces of woodcarving and then a pattern is expressed by dyeing. Records from nine years of King Heungdeok's reign during the Unified Silla dynasty show that the use of the clamp resist dyeing technique was banned for different garments. This was only for garments of YOOKDUPUMNYEO (六頭品女) or OHDUPUMNYEO (五頭品女). Given this, it can be assumed that clamp resisted fabrics were widely used, and the technique had been established during the Unified Silla dynasty or before. However, only the term can be found in the records. Neither its definition nor how this technique was used is explained. Also, it is difficult to assume the types and features of clamp resist dyeing due to a lack of materials. A small number of relics from the Goryeo dynasty still remain, though. Craft techniques have developed through international exchanges and have changed according to respective nations' circumstances including politics, economics, society, and culture. Hence, this research analyzed documents and relics from China and Japan, two countries neighboring the Republic of Korea, and studied the different types and features of clamp resist dyeing techniques. Clamp resist dyeing techniques were divided into monochromatic or multichromatic according to the number of colors that represented patterns, rather than according to the respective nations' features. They were also classified into mono, bilateral symmetry, or vertical-bilateral symmetry according to the structure of the patterns. Through the study of examples of inherited or reproduced dyeing techniques in China and Japan, it was confirmed that different engraving techniques, including relief, openwork, intaglio fit for the feature of a pattern and the number of colors, were applied in order to vividly represent patterns on fabric. Using small flower pattern clamp resist dyed fine tabby in Amitabha of 1302, the only relic showing its patterns and colors in Korea, as the experiment subject, this research successfully reproduced a clamp resist dyeing technique through a successful experiment based on the basic materials from the dyeing technique case study. Due to the significance of the experiment on a clamp resist dyeing technique that stopped its transmission and shows the features of the technique, this study is expected to be a basic resource that can be used for future reproductions of multichromatic clamp resist dyeing techniques. Also, it is expected to be helpful in widening and recreating the world of Korean pattern dyeing with modern dyeing techniques.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.7-16
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• 1996

The air-flow dyeing machine is a new type of dyeing machine. Which is an energy saving type to be able to dye the fabrics with the lowest liquor ratio and in shorter time. This machine is operated with an aerodynamic system rather than a hyd raulic system for traditional jet or overflow dyeing. An air-flow dyeing machine(Green-flow) by the use of aerodynamic technology was developed and compared with the Luft-roto machine made by Thies Company, Germany, in this study. Three samples were dyed with both machines under the same dyeing conditions and color fastness, dyeing levelness, drapability, and mechanical properties of these samples were compared. The results were as follows; Both machines have almost the same dyeability. The dyeability was good at liquor ratio of 1: 3.5 and the speed of 450yds/min. The order for drapability was Crepe de Chine > Cool Peach > Charmeuse. Except for the color fastness of sublimation being below class 4, most color fastness of samples dyed with Green-flow m/c were above class 4. The maximum speed was 510yds/min. for Crepe de Chine and the standard deviation of K/S value was lower for Charmeuse and Cool Peach when employed on the "Green-flow" machine and lower for Crepe de Chine when employed on the Luft-roto machine. Comparing with dyeing of the Green-flow machine and that of the Luft-roto machine, the RT of the Charmeuse was found to be higher with the Green-flow machine and thus the sample had an improved wrinkle recovery. LT and WT of Cool Peach were higher, and shear properties(G, 2HG, 2HGS) of Crepe de Chine were higher, both turning out as suitable for clothing. clothing.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.40-46
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to estimate natural dyeing properties of Korean traditional paper (Hanji). We dyed the Korean traditional paper with dyestuff which extracted from wood meal of Cotinus coggygria Scop (smoke tree) using hot-water, ethanol and $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution. As mordants, 0.5% of $AlK(SO_4)_2$, $FeCl_2$, and $CuCH_3(COO)_2$ solution were used respectively. The color of dyed Hanji mainly depended on not the methods of extraction but the kinds of mordant. The dyed Hanji mordant with $AlK(SO_4)_2$ colored vivid yellow, $FeCl_2$ colored dark olive, and $CuCH_3(COO)_2$ colored brown and/or orange. The dyed Hanji with hot-water extractive had the highest K/S value and ethanol and $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution extractives were followed. The K/S value of dyed Hanji mordant with $AlK(SO_4)_2$ was higher than that of $FeCl_2$ and $CuCH_3(COO)_2$. The dyeing effectiveness of after-mordanting method was superior to the others but sim-mordanting method was the worst.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.23-38
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• 2011

This research is to examine the formative of patterns and characteristics of expression in Danzhai Miao batik of Guizhou China and to reveal the cultural factors and characteristics of artistic expression inherent to it. As the research methodology, theoretical study was done by utilizing the preceding research data, literature data at home and abroad, photo data, and Internet data, and as the empirical research, field trip was made to Guizhou China and investigation and experiment of dyeing techniques, purchase of dyeing craftworks, photography shooting, and interviews were conducted. The results of this research showed that ancient Chinese batik began in Miao in the Jinhan era and the three types of Miao's traditional batik, i.e. Danzhai batik, Huangping batik, Anshun batik. Danzhai Miao batik obtained indigo blue white patterns through traditional production techniques and natural dyeing batik and represented Miao batik of Guizhou. In the expression of Danzhai Miao batik, based on the cultural backgrounds, the formative such as symbolic of patterns, tradition, primitive, reality, abstract, and decorative of dress designs and high dignity of artistry of creative batik patterns be found from the aspect of expressing magnanimous nationality.