• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.60-74
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• 2020

A Podaegi is a square cloth used to carry a baby. Podaegi was an essential necessity for raising baby. However currently Koreans prefer baby-carriers, baby hip-seats, and equipments other than Podaegi. Recently, Podaegi is becoming popular around the world. Therefore, it is necessary to study Podaegi to inform Korea's traditional parenting culture product. In this research, 230 images of Podaegi were collected from paintings, photographs, postcards, films and artifacts from the late 18th century to 2000. The period of study was divided into three phases from the late Joseon Dynasty to before the opening of the port, from the opening of the port to before the liberation, and from the liberation to 2000. Types of Podaegi were categorized according to its shape and how to use. Transition process of Podaegi was examined. Podaegis were categorized into band type, blanket type, combination type, cheone type, modern type, and so on. From the late Joseon Dynasty to before the pre-openings, band type was used. From the opening of the port to liberation, all types of Podaegi appeared. Since the liberation, the use of band and blanket type has gradually decreased. Modern types have been the most popular since the 1960s. Materials of Podaegi became varied and Podaegi became a fashion-item. Later, modern Podaegi became the representative form of Korean traditional Podaegi.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권5호
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• pp.676-690
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• 2013

This study explored the historical meaning and the present practices of Indonesian batik. Relevant literature was reviewed first; subsequently, interviews and observations were conducted to achieve the purpose of the study. Historically, batik was an integral part of the Javanese court art as well as a representation of each regional culture. Batik also became an important means to reveal a national identity in postcolonial Indonesia in the 1950s. There exist two types of traditional and modern type batik in present Indonesia. The traditional batik refers to batik tulis, batik cap, and the combination of tulis and cap. The modern batik is comprised of a batik print as well as the combination of the print and the traditional batik. The traditional batik was practiced at the small-sized village batik workshops and in the government batik research center. A few batik workshops often co-operate with modern screen print factories; however, the use natural dyes for the dyeing of batik cloth is rarely found. Batik was used for varied objects made from fabric materials that include clothing, small fashion items, living supplies and furniture, as well as fine art such as paintings and wooden crafts.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권6호
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• pp.10-20
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• 2003

The object of this research is to develop the designs with aesthetics and function for making the uniforms of specialty restaurants of Korean dishes in pursuit of the image of excellent dignity and its result is as follows: As for designs, this research chose the traditional image as the basic concept and made visual Korean lines, colors, and patterns. As for lines, it made visual the curve of the eaves, the straight line of polls, and the fret of windows and doors represented in architecture and applied them, as for color tones, it chose traditional 'Obangsaek', five direction colors. As for the patterns, it symbolized 4 trigrams( Geon, Gon, Gam, and Yi), the cloud pattern, also it tried to get the formative beauty from traditional patchwork wrapping cloth and windows and doors. The expectant effects on the design of Uniform are as follows: First, it offered basic clothes for male and female employees working in the hall and suggested two kinds of skirt and pants for the latter. It tried to find out both the function of pants and the female beauty of skirts by wrapping on pants to eliminate the feeling of rejection towards the style of them, the use of which have been recognized for man only in spite of many merits of them. Second, it sought for the characteristics of shape on collar, breast-tie, and fold etc. of Korean clothes and designed clothes according to each employee's role and finally emphasized their traditional aesthetics.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.11-21
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• 2007

In this study, we will analyze the artistic character of Jogakbo as a element of fashion art design. Korean traditional Jogakbo is a common homemade item made from clothing remnants and is a part of the culture of women�s quarters. Currently, Jogakbo is higly regarded for its artistic value and it finds a variety of uses in fashion. In particular, it is striking how its modern-style geometric lines and color composition are congruous with abstract art. In applying Jogakbo to fashion art design, we study the artistic expression of Jogakbo in 4 aspects; namely, line, color, material, and technique; and analyze the 4 artistic characteristics; beauty of naivety, simplicity, moderation and freedom. 8 dresses designed based on these 4 characteristics are presented as examples.

• 복식
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• 제27권
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• pp.103-119
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• 1996

From Yan Chikgong-do the first picture of the envoy to the pictures of the age of Unified Shilla the traces of Korean envoys were found and they habe been continually found in the pictures of China Japan and Central Asia. The traditional Korean basic clothing which the envoys were in yang Chikgong-do has changed with the age. Korean envoys wore their thraditional cloth-ing to show their dignity whenever they went abroad. They have adapted themselves to the change of history and diplomatic policies However they could express their indentities as Korean people in Hanba-do by enshrining national features that is wearing the tra-ditional Korean clothing. From this study is can be concluded that traditional style of Korean clothing has continued in spite of be-ing under the influence of the foreign style of clothing.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제51권4호
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• pp.84-107
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• 2018

첨모직은 표면에 짧은 파일이 나타나는 것으로 조선시대 후기에는 첨모직 깔개를 지칭하는 용어로 채담이 사용되었으며, 20세기 초에는 융전과 단통, 양탄자 등으로 불리었다. 조선 말기 이후의 여러 문헌이나 신문기사, 그리고 각종 사진자료를 통해 첨모직 깔개가 왕실뿐만 아니라 일반인도 사용하였고 당시 국내에서 제작하였다는 것이 확인되었다. 본 연구에서는 조선 말기 이후의 첨모직 깔개 6점을 실물 조사하였는데 5점은 페르시아매듭의 컷파일이며 1점은 루프파일의 기법으로 제작되었다. 컷파일의 깔개는 크기가 가로 72~98 ${\times}$ 세로 150~156cm의 직사각형이며, 나비, 사슴, 호랑이, 그리고 십장생 등의 주 무늬를 중앙에 배치하고 卍자를 가장자리에 배치하였다. 컷파일의 소재는 지경사는 모두 면사이며 지위사는 3점은 면사, 1점은 모사, 그리고 1점은 면사와 비스코스레이온의 혼섬사이다. 지위사는 4점이 S꼬임의 실 여러 올을 합쳐 Z방향으로 합사한 실을 사용했다. 파일위사는 4~6가지의 색이 사용되었는데 홍색을 제외하고 모두 염색을 하지 않은 자연색 그대로의 모섬유가 사용되었다. 그리고 S나 Z꼬임의 모사를 2올 이상 합하여 반대방향으로 꼬임을 주었는데 굵기에 맞춰 올수를 합하였다. 깔개의 위아래 가장자리는 위사를 6올 이상 넣고 남은 지경사는 몇 올씩을 한데 묶어서 정리하였으며, 좌우 가장자리는 3올 이상의 면사를 가운데 놓고 수평으로 감아 마치 둥근 막대처럼 만들며, 가장자리에서 2~3번째 지경사를 징거서 튼튼하게 고정하였다. 루프파일은 경사방향으로 고리를 만든 경첨모직이며 지경사와 지위사는 면사, 파일경사는 모사로 추정된다. 소재의 성분 분석이 가능했던 깔개는 3점으로 파일위사는 판단이 불명한 것을 제외하고 염소와 비미종 양으로 판명되어 첨모직 깔개에 다양한 종류의 동물털이 사용되었을 가능성이 있다고 본다. 본 연구에서 조사한 6점의 깔개는 1800년대 말부터 1900년대 초에 제작되었다고 추정된다. 깔개의 정확한 제작지는 확인할 수 없었으나 당시 국내에서 첨모직 깔개를 제작하고 있다는 문헌기록과 깔개의 문양의 조형성을 고려한다면 우리나라에서 제작된 것으로 본다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.105-116
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• 2021

Pillows are tools that humans have used for a long time to sleep or lie down and rest. It is bedding, and the oldest literature dealing with it is Volume 29 of 'GoryeoDogyeong', which describes embroidered pillows. The oldest relic is the queen's pillow (National Treasure No. 164) excavated from the tomb of King Muryeong, and is in the Gongju National Museum. This study attempts to investigate and reproduce the materials used in traditional pillows Yukgol pillows and pine nut pillows designs are based on literature and artifacts from the Joseon period to modern times. Regarding the research method, after reviewing literature and the relics of traditional pillows, the process of reproducing the traditional Yukgol pillow and the pine nut pillow production method were explained step by step. This study found the plain attitudes in the lives of people who used materials that could be easily gained from their daily lives in rural communities oriented to rice farming never recklessly threw out any piece of cloth or cotton and use it for pillow stuffing or pillow ends. Also, the sophisticated sense of aesthetics that you can see from the pine nut pillows, whose ends were made of remnants from making clothing are exquisitely similar to what was shown in patchwork previously. The biggest meaning of restoring traditional pillows was looking into traditional culture, particularly the ordinary people's living culture. It was very difficult because the researcher had to find materials that were difficult to obtain in this age, the making process was complex, and it took much time; however, it is significant in that the restoration of traditional pillows allows for the succession of tradition.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제43권3호
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• pp.131-145
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• 2005

The purpose of the study was to determine ae forms, patterns and structures of Huipils as traditional clothes in Guatemala and Mexico, and to cite possibilities of applying the findings of the study, acquired by comparing the differences of the two countries' Huipils, to textile or costume design. There are two types of Huipils. One is for everyday wear and another one is for special occasion. The latter is bigger in size, more colorful and is worn on top of the daily use Huipil. Huipils consist of 1 to 3 panels, and are usually made by weaving rectangular cloth which has 4 selvedges. There are various neckline such as - type, T type, 1 type, round type and square type. The types of the neckline depends on how many panels are used. The Mexican Huipils are worn usually over skirts, whereas the Huipils of Guatemalans are practically designed with white cotton that doesn't have any patterns so as to be easily put into skirts. Different from Mexicans' Huipils which mainly show big botanical patterns, the patterns of Guatemalans' Huipils combine animals, plants and abstract concepts display mixed aspects, and it seems to me that that expressed their emotions and dearest wishes.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제27권3호
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• pp.264-273
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• 2019

Fashion as a field of cultural studies is a very complex field that is very interesting to discuss, especially in Indonesia as the very rich country in cultures and past traditions. This research will discuss the development of fashion in Bali, one area that is opulent in its cultures. Based on the research conducted by today's fashion development, Bali is still strongly influenced by factors inherited from traditional values that exist in the Balinese culture. This research is conducted by applying the qualitative method with the ethnography approach to unravel any factor in Bali so that it becomes the foundation and triggers the rapid development of fashion by still maintaining the values of the tradition. Considering that the values of tradition as a whole have a good impact on the preservation of the natural balance and various factors that exist in society, whether these factors still exist in other regions of Indonesia and they are possible to be developed in various regions of Indonesia. So hopefully the development of fashion in Indonesia as a whole can maintain the local content that characterizes the Indonesian Nation and have a positive impact on the balance of nature and also to the community in Indonesia and the world culture.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.712-722
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to examine the types and characteristics of decorative techniques applied to the Korean traditional skirt of contemporary style. For the purpose, this researcher selected 167 pieces of Korean traditional skirts which were shown in relevant monthly magazines published between 2001 and 2010. Then, the researcher classified the types of decorative techniques found in those selected pieces and analyzed the characteristics of decoration technique for each area of the pieces and the characteristics of patterns used in relation to those techniques. The Korean traditional skirt, otherwise called 'Hanbok chima', was classified into two types, single and composite, in accordance with which technique of decoration was used to it. The single type was characterized by so many embroideries, while the composite type, a combination of two decorative techniques, seonchigi and jatmulim. In the Korean traditional skirt, decorative techniques were applied to the knotting and entire of the skirt. Patterns used to decorate the Korean traditional skirt were usually in form of embroidery, gold or silver foil or painting. Out of the patterns, those which were embroidered or painted were shaped flowers, while those which were plated with gold or silver are shaped bosangdangchomun and flowers. There were other decorative techniques than mentioned above, for example, applying two or more different colors to the hem of the skirt, attaching pads to the knotting of the skirt and padding a decorative cloth on the front center of the skirt.