Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.22
no.3
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pp.1-17
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2020
The Peking Opera is one of the most representative cultural aspects of China. It includes China's traditional specialties, such as stage performance, stage background, and costumes. The purpose of this study is to investigate the characters and the costume characteristics of the Peking Opera to present fashion design. This research is meaningful for spreading the Peking Opera to the world by applying China's traditional costumes to fashion design. Based on the cultural background of the Peking Opera and the analysis of the opera costume, four sets of women's clothes were made by using the traditional Chinese elements. The conclusions are as follows. First, traditional features such as patterns, colors, and styles from Peking Opera costumes were used in fashion design. The colors and patterns use Chinese traditional aesthetics to carry out contemporary fashion design and apply creative materials. Second, the neoprene used to create the items is a material suitable for the modern design of the traditional Peking Opera costumes. Neoprene has good elasticity and can be cut and sewn in a variety of ways. It can also satisfy the three-dimensional atmosphere and rich morphological changes found in Peking Opera costumes. In addition, a combination of thin chiffon and mesh materials is also suitable for the development of modern designs. Finally, in order to show the effects of traditional works, the patterns were finished by hand-painting. The hand-painted works were then scanned and printed on the material by the digital printing techniques. At the conclusion, the traditional features and feelings of the contemporary designs were presented.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.25
no.4
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pp.107-122
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2023
This study analyzed the style, dimensions, fabric patterns, colors, and fabrics of a traditional Chinese women's dress from the Zhou Dynasty, and reconstructed it in the form of a virtual garment using 3D CLO. Based on ancient flat image data and three-dimensional portrait data, who wore them, how they were worn, and how they were coordinated was analyzed. In order to analyze the size and pattern of the straight Ju Chines dress, data from the excavation report and the tomb owner's anthropometric measurements were combined to infer the wearing condition and organize the sculptural features. Dimensional analysis was carried out using a well-preserved small-scale woven cotton cloth as a restoration model, and the horizontal and vertical dimensions were reasonably estimated using the shape proportioning method. The analysis of the colors and patterns of the fabrics was based on the colors and patterns of the fabrics excavated from Masan Tomb No. 1 during the Eastern Zhou, Qin, and Han periods. Finally, a virtual model was created using data from the excavation report and the age and height information of the owner of the excavated robe, and the pose and size of the virtual model were determined using 3D CLO. Based on the previous research data, the garment was virtually sewn and simulated. The shape, pressure, and strain of the garment in different postures was also compared. Through the research direction of pattern and 3D restoration, this research maximizes the restoration of Chinese traditional women's dress and presents it in a more intuitive, comprehensive, and vivid way.
The purpose of this study is to obtain specific data about the characteristics of color preference on Women's street fashion within China and Korea. Photos of Women's street fashion from the twenties and thirties were taken in person in four cities in China(Beijing, Dalian, Qingdao and Nanjing) and Seoul from July 2nd to August 10th, 2015. Three hundred photos in each city were selected, making a total of 1,500 photos. In the analysis of the colors of the clothing in these five cities, the uses of the multi color was most frequent in Dalian, while those of Black was most prevalent in Beijing, Qingdao, Nanjing and Seoul. The Black proved to be commonly preferred through all the items, regardless of terms of the nationality, areas and seasonal changes. The high incidence of Purple Blue color in Beijing, Dalian and Qingdao might be attributed to their preference of the blue jeans. The Multi color was highly shown in all the cities which might be due to their preference of compound colors rather than the mono ones. The high preference for the chromatic colors such as Red, Yellow Red and Yellow might be ascribed to the Chinese traditional color preferences. The differences lies in the color tones, such as the dark and light grayish tone emphasized in Seoul and Nanjing, and vivid and strong tones in Beijing, Dalian and Qingdao. Seoul shows a liking for the achromatic colors, preferring dark and grayish tones, compared with four cities in China, only Nanjing has a similar trend to Seoul. This study analyzes geographical preferences in China that possibly contribute to the launching of Korean fashion brands in view of the design and marketing as a useful basic resources.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.22
no.2
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pp.167-180
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2020
The purpose of this study is to present the use of traditional culture and the direction of various fashion designs by developing and producing contemporary fashion designs on the Muslim costumes of the Chinese Hui minority. Based on research methods, the cultural background was investigated and the design characteristics were summarized. Based on the results of this survey, 4 sets of women's fashion were designed. The design intent was to feature Muslim traditional costumes and to adopt a functional contemporary design. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, simple and indecisive clothing shows the innocent and good side of the congregation. In this study, traditional dresses were used to make use of the simple silhouette and color, and to create a contemporary atmosphere, various materials, such as wool, glossy industrial complex, lace, and fur were used to create a modern sense design by adding diversity to the simple silhouette. Second, the biggest feature of the regimented Muslim costume focuses on a head cover and suggests a contemporary sense of hood improvement, and a design that can be used with two sides. These hooded head covers can provide fashion and diversity and can be proposed as functional. Third, contemporary Muslim fashion is gaining global attention and it is possible to develop various fashion designs based on traditional motifs. This study was able to increase the feminine image by changing the solemnity of the communal dress without discarding the foundation of the traditional religious culture based on the daily dress of the people.
Culture speaks for the characters of the period, so it is presented by the mutual actions of many factors affecting culture. Foreign culture, introduced by cultural exchange, was modified and accepted into a new form and value system. In the beginning, only foreigners danced these dances, but Chinese started to dance them gradually. Thus, the dancing costume showed the complete fusion of Chinese and exotic styles. Especially, in the Tang dynasty, Chinese accepted foreign culture very actively and with open hearts. They accepted foreign culture based on their traditional culture, and fused them completely. In these costumes, not one culture was prominent, but many cultures from Gandhara to East and West Turkistan and even to Persian and Hellenism were synthesized together. Chinese, in the Tang dynasty, retained on their traditional culture and modified new foreign culture into Chinese style.
In recent years, young Chinese consumers have become more favorably inclined toward products relating to traditional culture. Therefore, this study aimed to develop a textile design that incorporates traditional Chinese patterns and cultural symbolism that will appeal to consumers from the MZ generation (millennials and Generation Z). Through a literature search for traditional Chinese patterns and symbols regarded as auspicious, our design concept and motives were established. We selected peony, lotus, and frog motifs as representative of a "wealth and eternal prosperity" design theme. In textile design work 1, we used hand drawing and watercolor techniques, color transformation with Adobe Photoshop, and colorway and end-use 3D simulation with TexPro. The 3D simulation work suggests that this textile pattern is suitable for women's outerwear, mufflers, and tote bags. Textile design work 2 conveyed the 'wealth and eternal prosperity' design theme and had a graceful mood that embodied the nobility of the lotus flower whilst also encompassing the symbolism of money and status. The end design is a modern reinterpretation of traditional Chinese patterns and motifs. As such, it is hoped that it will satisfy the needs of young consumers for cultural values yet offer a unique new aesthetic distinct from existing textile designs. These qualities can be expected to enhance the competitive market value of textiles bearing this design.
Mongdueui(蒙頭衣) and mongduri(蒙頭里) in the Joseon dynasty was one of women's robe. The style of Mongdueui was same as Chinese baeja(褙子 $\cdot$ vest) having non-overlapping front opening with collar, This form was conformed through the wonsam excavated baeja from tomb of South Song dynasty. The basic construction was same as Joseon dynasty's except the collar. In the early Joseon dynasty the noble women wore Jangsam(長衫) as an outer wear, the common and lower class women wore Mongdueui, and the queen and royal household we baeja. The court lady wore baeja as well as Mongdueui for funeral ceremony. The style of women's robes was classified into two categories by the literature Byungwajip(甁窩集). The first was the hongjangsam(紅長衫長) in red for noble women. The other was the mongduri for the common lady. Whangchosam the outer wear of Jeongjaeyong(呈才女伶), a professional women entertainer, having non-overlapping front opening with collar, has been examined in the painting. And it had been evolved into the shaman's clothing in the last stage of Joseon dynasty.
The purpose of this thesis was to investigate the similarities between religious costumes and Kazakh and Tajik minority women's costumes in the Chinese northwestern minority population that believes in both Islam and Shamanism. The research was conducted by investigating the forms, colors, and patterns of 240 representative costume pieces and making quantitative comparisons between religious and traditional costumes. The results showed that the Kazakh and Tajik costumes were similarly formed, both intended to cover the human body. Both the Islamic and traditional headdresses were also similarly shaped. In terms of color, black, white, green, and blue were found frequently in the Islamic religious costumes, as were red and yellow. Red, white, and brown, ascribed to the colors of shamanism, signifying incantations, were also frequent, indicating that this was engrained in their lives. A review of the traditional costumes revealed the patterns of Islam. Plants, geometry, abstraction, and letter patterns were dominant, whereas the meaning of the Islamic patterns, rebirth, sun, life, and hope, influenced the traditional costume patterns. Patterns associated with incantations, like the animal horns shown in the shamanism religious costumes, were persistently observed even after the people were converted to Islam. This study on the similarities between religious and traditional costumes in the Chinese minority might help us understand the connection between religious and traditional costumes and elucidate the cultural costume transition process.
Nowadays, global wedding dress companies are interested in the Chinese wedding market because of expectations in consumption patterns of the post 80's generation. Therefore, wedding behavior, selection criteria for wedding dresses, and favored image by segmented groups targeting 20's to 30's Chinese women were studied to help the Korean wedding dress industry to establish their business in China. The survey was conducted in Shanghai city and three neighboring cities-Wuxi, Zhengziang, and Hangzhou-, and the primary data were analyzed using the SPSS program. As results, Chinese women thought that the wedding ceremony should be elegant and dignified, and they wanted to choose their favorite style rather than a recommended style. The criteria of selection were classified into four factors. Overall image and well fitting with their face and body were the most important factors in the selection of wedding dress. The most favored image was unique/novel image. Several favored images for their wedding dress were significantly different by occasion (ceremony day and photo shoot day) and education level. People of higher education level preferred more luxurious and classic image during the ceremony, and a classic and gorgeous image on the photo shoot day. A white dress and a colored dress for weddings were favored more than the Chinese traditional dress on both occasions. There was also a significant difference between general consumers and the wedding business employees in the quantity of wanted wedding dress.
This study examines decorative features found in the traditional costume of the Miao, one of the minority groups in China, and adapts them for the development of modern Korean-style fashion designs in order to present visual sample data and to introduce techniques. As for the research method, both literature and visual data are examined: the former includes Miao-related books and theses; the latter, pictures from various documents and real-life data in the possession of Seoul Women's University. The study result is as follows: 1. The basic structure of Miao costume is consist of a Caftan-type upper garment and an accentuated lower garment, pleats skirt although they are decorated luxuriously with various techniques such as delicate embroidery and dyeing. 2. Details and trimmings in modern shapes are developed and presented by adding modern materials to satin, twists, cross-stitch embroidery, stripe patterns, geometrical patchwork, machine pleats and smoking, trimmings of fringe & feather, and the border line decoration of coloration, braids, piping, embroidery, belts tied and wound with colorful threads. 3. Detachable accessaries such as front reinforcement strips, back reinforcement strips, belts, decorative aprons and patchwork skirts are developed and designed by adapting highlighted layered effects. 4. The silver decoration used as an necessary by the Miao is suitable for modern fashion design in futuristic sense. Various techniques and decorative features of Miao costume display their true value all the more in modern fashion stream in which ethnic trends draw much attention.
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