• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.6
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• pp.185-195
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• 2002

This study was carried out to investigate the wearing silhouette of jackets according to the mechanical properties, primary hand value and total hand value of the 3 types of wool fabrics. Wool/PET(50/50), wool/PET(80/50) and wool(100%) fabrics were used as test specimens. Mechanical properties of specimens were measured by KES-FB system and primary hand value and total hand value were calculated by equation KN-203-LDY. We made three experimental jackets based on the precious jacket pattern and used Moir Photography to measure the amounts of space between the jacket clothes and body surface from the overlap cross section map. The results were as follows: 1) In mechanical properties, woo/PET(80/20) fabric showed higher bending and shear rigidity. 2) In evaluation of primary hand and total hand, wool 100% fabric showed higher NUMERI and FUKURAMI hand and total hand value. 3) From the reset of Moir Photography, the wearing shapes of the experimental jackets were influenced by the characteristics of fabrics. Except for the hip part, the garment ease of wool/PET(80/20) fabric was estimated more highly.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.23-31
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• 2005

Mechanical properties and hand evaluation of wool/acrylic(W/A) blend knits were conducted before and after repeated washing to get the optimum W/A blending ratio, which could help achieve the optimum mechanical and hand properties of the knits. The five test fabrics using the yarns with different W/A blending ratios($\%$), 100/0, 70/30, 50/50, 30/70, 0/100, were knitted. The fabrics were washed by a rotating drum type washing machine. Then, objective mechanical and hand properties were evaluated by KES-FB, Kawabata evalution system for fabric. The results are as follows: there was no change in the hand value of the knitted fabric with the W/A-blended yarn caused by the change in the blending ratio before washing. After washing, however, the increase of acrylic's blending rate caused the bending property to decrease proportionally, while the friction coefficient of the surface property increased. Furthermore, the study showed that W/A 50/50 possesses the most superior tensile property and shearing property, which could attain the optimum blending ratio. Similar results in hand value were derived in all the samples. After washing, however, the increase in acrylic's blending rate caused a proportional decrease in KOSHI and an increase in FUKURAMI. In addition, W/A 50/50 gained the biggest NUMERI value, again corresponding to the optimum blending ratio. Similar results in total hand value were derived in all the samples before washing. After washing, though, all the total hand values decreased, and, as the wool fabric's blending rate increased, the total hand values proportionally decreased further.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.63-73
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to quantify the hands of fabrics for the Korean folk clothes using both a KES-FB and an artificial neural network. In order to select the proper input parameters, we calculated the correlation using step-wise regression between mechanical properties and the hand value of fabrics. For the classification, the primary hand values and total hand value, five neural networks with three-layered structure were constructed using the error back propagation algorithm and, in order to reduce errors and to speed up learning, the momentum method was selected. From the analysis of the primary and total hands using a self-constructed artificial intelligence system, the error rates of sleekness, stiffness, silkiness, and roughness compared with the judgement of expert panels were found to be 3.3%, 3.3%, 1.6%, and 4.9%, respectively, while that of the total hand was 9.83%.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Noise and Vibration Engineering Conference
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• 2005.05a
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• pp.146-149
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• 2005

Thesedays, the reduction of hand-transmitted vibration of hand-held power tools is important issue for operators' welfare, In the study, frequency response function is measured and vibration total value is evaluated for solving the principle and effect of the BOSCH's vibration-proof handle. This handle functions as a dynamic damper and has the effect, 22% vibration total value reduction under idling condition using a system that consists of a PC with data acquisition system and LabVIEW program. The program in the system makes it possible to evaluate vibration total value according to ISO 5349. This handle offers a good example for figuring out the physical contradiction between the work efficiency and operators' health.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.275-281
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate hand and sensibility of PET treated by Ultra-Violet (UV). The 4-channel PET knit fabric was treated by a self-made UV instrument in 5cm distance with different time frames-0min, 30min, and 90min. For hand evaluation, mechanical properties were measured by the KES-FB system. The environmental condition was controlled at 29$^{\circ}C$, 75% (R.H.)-summer standard climate. Twenty female students evaluated 'roughness', 'smoothness', 'wetness', 'stiffness', 'coolness', 'touch', 'preference', and 'comfort'. The outcomes of the experiment are as follows: The surface roughness of mechanical properties showed significant differences and the value of PET irradiated by UV for 90min was highest. The order of primary hand value such as NUMERI and FUKURAMI was in a following order-Untreated > 30min treated > 90min treated. Total hand value showed that PET irradiated by UV for 90min was appropriate for using summer fabric. The results of subjective sensibility were that the untreated and 30min treated PET were recognized as similar and had a good evaluation on 'comfort', 'preference' and 'the sense of touch'. This consequence disagreed with total hand value, because it was considered that subjects' hand sensibility was dependent on the feel of smoothness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.174-179
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• 2001

This study investigated the effect of aftertreatments such as using the softener or starch on the mechanical properties of knitted fabrics. The mechanical properties of fabrics, hand value(HV) and total hand value(THV) were measured and calculated by the KES-F system. The main results are as follows: The values of tensile energy(WT), coefficient of friction(MIU) and geometrical roughness(SMD) were increased by softener but decreased by starch treatment. However, the values of tensile linearity(LT), bending(B, 2HB), thickness(T) and weight(W) were increased by starch but decreased by softener treatment. Tensile resilience(RT) was increased not only by softener but also by starch treatment. It showed that the levels of FUKURAMI, NUMERI and SOFUTOSA were increased by the treatment of softener and the levels of KOSHI and SHARI were increased by the treatment of starch. Total hand value(THV) was lower in fabric with starch treatment than fabric with none treatment.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.119-128
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• 1998

Nonwoven fabrics for diaper coverstock were treated with chitosan solution by pad-dry method. Two chitosans of different molecular weigh(Mw) with similar degree of deacetylation(DDA) were used: Mw 1,800(chitosan oligomer, DDA 84%). Effect of chitosan treatment on the mechanical properties was investigated using KES-FB system. Primary hand values were calculated from mechanical properties using the same equation as the men's suiting equation with minor modification, and total hand values were calculated using new KN-5LNW equation for nonwoven fabrics developed by Kawabata et al. Increase in chitosan treatment concentration increased B, 2HB, WT, LT and RC, and decreased WC continuously. Chitosan treatment affected other mechanical properties regardless of molecular weight. Considering primary hand values obtained from mechanical properties, it was found that chitosan of Mw 180,000 and chitosan oligomer provided softer, smoother, and more bulky at below 0.05% and above 0.5% treatment concentration respectively. Samples treated with 1.0% chitosan oligomer solution, and 0.01％ chitosan solution of Mw 180,000 showed the best total hand values. (Korean J Human Ecology 1(2):119∼128, 1998)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.440-447
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• 2000

The effects of DP finishing conditions including process technique and finishing agent on the mechanical properties and hand of cotton fabrics were investigated. 100% cotton fabrics were treated with NMA/DMDHEU and NMA/YF using wet-fixation and steam-fixation process. For comparison, conventional pad-dry-cure process was used with DMDHEU. After DP finishing, tensile and compressional resilience increased and bending hysteresis decreased, resulting in the improvement of dimensional stability of cotton fabric. WF and SF process rendered fabrics better shear properties, tensile energy, and compressional linearity and energy than PDC process. However, SF process produced fabrics with higher geometrical roughness than WF process. After DP finishing, primary hand values except Koshi increased, resulting in the increase of total hand value of cotton fabric.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.99-106
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• 2007

In this study, the mechanical properties related to the fabric appearance of well being functional bamboo knitted fabric before and after loess dyeing were evaluated. The mechanical properties of fabrics were measured by KES-F system, that is, shape retention, draping, wrinkle recovery, compression property, and surface properties, and total hand value of three types of knitted fabric, 100% bamboo, 100% cotton, and bamboo / cotton blend (60 / 40) were evaluated before and after loess dyeing. As a result, it was found that appearance density, shape retention, and drape coefficient of cotton knitted fabric were greater than those of bamboo knitted fabric. After loess dyeing, shape retention and drape coefficient, wrinkle recovery of bamboo knitted fabric improved and WC/C and MMD/SMD decreased. According to THV, the hand of bamboo/cotton blend knit is the best among three samples by compensation the weak properties of the two fiber. Therefore, loess dyeing seemed to be a good method for improving shape retention and hand value of 100% bamboo and bamboo blended fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.4
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• pp.26-34
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to create a database of information on the mechanical properties of two different waterproof and breathable shell fabric groups(high density woven and PTFE laminate) used for outdoor apparel and to compare and correlate data of their mechanical properties and hand values. The results of this study were as follows; There were no statistically significant differences between two fabric groups in extension, bending and shearing properties. There were statistically significant differences between two fabric groups in MMD, SMD, LC and we values. High density woven fabrics had smoother surface than PTFE laminated fabrics. PTFE laminated fabrics can be compressed easily more than high density woven fabrics but their recovery after compression was not better than high density woven fabrics. There were statistically significant differences between two fabric groups in NUMERI, FUKURAMI. There was statistically significant difference between two fabric groups in total hand value. Total hand value and mean deviation of MIU had a very high and statistically significant negative correlation coefficient.