• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.2 s.87
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• pp.39-45
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• 2006

The aim of this work is to develop sense-differentiated textiles using Thick-Thin polyester yarn(T-T yarn) with finer than 1 denier mono filament. The ITY(Interlace Textured Yarn) using T-T yarn with various over feed ratios of PET filament was manufactured with different shrinking percentage of core yarn and then the fabrics were woven on the same weaving 100m using ITY produced. The mechanical properties and the handles of the fabrics were examined with KES-FB system suggested by Kawabata. The shrinkage of ITY was increased with decreasing over feed ratio and increased with increasing heat treatment temperature of T-T yarn. The initial elasticity modulus of ITY was decreased with increasing over feed ratio and heat treatment temperature of T-T yarn. The tensile energy of fabrics was decreased with increasing of over feed ratio, but bending rigidity and shear rigidity of fabrics were increased with increasing of over feed ratio of PET filament. The results indicate that the fabric using T-T yarn with finer than I denier mono filament can be used for the purpose of sense-differentiated textile.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.17 no.3 s.82
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• pp.43-48
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• 2005

시료는 POY사 104/192로 Draw-Winder(독일, Zinser)를 이용하여 기존의 태세사 제조장치의 부분적인 개조를 통하여 길이방향으로 강제적인 태세사가 형성되도록 하는 제조기술을 이용하여 Thin-thick yam(T&T사) 6종류를 제조하였으며 제조 조건에 따른 구조변화와 물성에 대하여 연구 검토한 결과 다음과 같다. 결정화도의 변화는 Draw-winder의 R2 roller 온도가 상온인 경우보다 $100^{\circ}C$인 경우가 높게 나타났으며 태세사의 세(thin)부분의 복굴절률은 연신비가 높고 Draw winder의 roller(R2)의 온도가 높을수록 복굴절 값은 선형적으로 증가하였다. T&T사 제조시 연신 온도가 상온인 경우는 Thin부분만 연신이 진행되고 Thick 부분은 원사인 POY사의 성질이 그대로 유지하고 있음을 알 수 있고 R2 roller 온도가 상온에서 제조된 시료의 초기탄성률은 약1.5-2.0kgf/denier 정도로 높게 나타났으나 $100^{\circ}C$로 제조된 시료는 약 0.2-0.8kgf/denier 정도로 낮게 나타났다.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.3 s.88
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• pp.42-48
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• 2006

The aim of this work is to develop Thick-Thin polyester yarn(T-T yarn) with finer than 1 denier mono filament. The manufacture of T-T yarns were carried out in a draw-winder using 85d/72f PET filament with various spinning speed of 2700, 2900, and 3100 m/min, respectively. The structure and physical properties of T-T yarns with spinning speed and over feed ratio were examined by draw-winder processing the sample in $100^{\circ}C$ water for 20 min and drying in 120, 140, 160, and $180^{\circ}C$ of dry air for 20 min. The crystallinity, the birefringence and the initial elasticity modulus of T-T yarns increased with increased spinning speed of filament and the heat treatment temperature but at the temperatures higher than $140^{\circ}C$ the increased rates show a tendency to decrease. Moreover, the initial modulus and the tenacity of T-T yarns increased with decreasing the over feed ratio of filament and the those of T-T yarns decreases with increasing the heat treatment temperature. The shrinkage of T-T yarns decreased with decreasing spinning speed and increased over feed ratio of filaments. Consequently, the results indicate that the best T-T yarn under 1 denier was optimized from PET filament with spinning speed of 2700 m/min and over feed ratio of 0.67

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.363-373
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• 1973

The Sewability was tested with the seam strength and Puckering Grade by a general sewing machine according to some properties of simulated Leather, yarn tensile strength needle and stitches. The main results tested are as follows ; 1. The thick and uncomfortable leather is unable to be sewed by a general sewing machine, but the thin and soft one is able to. 2. The interval between stitches depends on type of leather used, and the variance in accordance with type of leather varies much more in the case of narrower interval. 3. When the sewability of leather-surface is not so good, is desirable to pour oil on the surface for the purpose of better efficiency. 4. The seam strength is directly proportional to interval of stitch and tensile strength of yarn and leather used, and needle No. 14 is more effective than No.1l. 5. The more the soft and thin leather is, the lower the Puckering Grade becomes. Type of yarn and interval of stitches do not seem to effect the Puckering Grade.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.113-119
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• 2016

The evolution of spinning technology was focused on improving productivity with good quality of yarns. More detail spinning technology according to mixing of various kinds of fibre materials on the air vortex spinning system is required for obtaining good quality yarns. This paper investigated the physical properties of air vortex yarns compared with ring and compact yarns using PTT/tencel/cotton fibres. It was observed that unevenness of air vortex yarns was higher than those of ring and compact yarns, which resulted in low tenacity and breaking strain of air vortex yarns. Initial modulus of air vortex yarns was higher than those of ring and compact yarns. Yarn imperfections of air vortex yarns such as thin, thick and nep were much more than those of ring and compact yarns. These poor yarn qualities of air vortex yarn were attributed to the fasciated yarn structure with parallel fibres in the core part of the air vortex yarn. However, yarn hairiness of air vortex yarns was less and shorter than those of ring and compact yarns. Thermal shrinkage of air vortex yarns were higher than that of ring yarns, which was caused by sensible thermal shrinkage of PTT fibres on the bulky yarn surface and core part of air vortex yarns.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.176-181
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• 2003

Theoretical weavability limit relationships of fabrics from regular warp yarns and fancy filling yams with thickness variation in shuttleless weaving are reviewed. The relationships correlate maximum warp and filling cover factors, warp and filling yarn characteristics, the distribution of thick and thin places of filling yarn over the fabric surface, and the warp and filling weave factor. The research considers single filling feeder and multiple feeders cases. Additionally, comparisons between the weavability limit of regular yarns and fancy yams in shuttle and shuttleless weaving are given.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.273-279
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• 2000

Interlace textured yarn was developed in order to increase weaving process efficiency. Today, interlace texturing is very useful method of manufacturing the high added value compound yarns for new synthetic fabrics. In this research, new silky type high added value compound yarns were. manufactured by interlace texturing technology and tested their properties. The object of this research is to investigate the relationship between interlace textured yarn properties and processing parameters that is air pressure, yarn tension and take-up speed. The original filament yarns used were TTD(Thick & Thin Semi-Dull) 110d/72f and SCD(Semi-Dull Cation Dyeable) 75d/36f. 27 specimens were manufactured and tested for their physical properties-nip density, tensile properties, multi-step shrinkage test and surface structure by SEM. The air pressure was main process condition to change properties of interlace textured yarns. And interlace textured process had influence on weaving preparation process, weaving, knitting and so on. It has some influence on shrinkage properties of dyeing and finishing processes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.4
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• pp.91-106
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to offer some directions for the design of men's knitwear and provide basic data helpful for design conception and product development for creative and unique men's knitwear. As for the methodology, the investigator examined the works of these following ten designers that consistently participated in the men's Milano Collection for the last ten years from 2001 S/S to 2010 F/W: Burberry Prorsum, Costume National, D & G, D squared, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Iceberg, Prada, and Vivien Westwood. We identified the design elements expressed in knitwear, categorized examples for each element, and reviewed their characteristics. The results of this study are as follows. The designers usually adopted the H-silhouette with some room until 2006, after which the slim tubular silhouette became prevalent. Most of the designers made knitwear with normal yarn and expressed them by dyeing or printing regardless of seasons, which meant the usage level of fancy yarn was low. The much usage of the basic pattern was particularly salient. The most popular basic structure was plain, which was followed by rib and color pattern, which included the jacquard and intarsia pattern. The designers presented thick outer items made of thick yarn for F/W seasons and many thin inner items made of thin yarn for S/S seasons. The popular colors were brown from the Red Group(R) and beige from the Orange Group (YR) regardless of seasons. When achromatic colors were used a lot, there was a development of various grey shades. For the most used basic structure, plain, the designers employed such technical methods as printing, pleat treatment, and dyeing in high frequency.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.247-251
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• 2005

In this the study, the effects of the manufacturing process conditions on the properties Thick and Thin Diameter yarns(TTD yarns) prepared with hot plate device in the draw winder were determined. Physical properties including wet shrinkage, tenacity and elongation of the samples were measured and thick and thin effect was analysed with the evenness tester. The results were as the follows: There was little change the wet shrinkage of the TTD yarns in the range of $70^{\circ}C{\sim}80^{\circ}C$ of $R_1$ temperature(lower hot cylinder) with the same Hot Plate(H/P) temperature, but the wet shrinkage of the TTD yarns decreased 5-10% when $R_1$ temperature was $90^{\circ}C$. The wet shrinkage of the TTD yarns decreased with the H/P temperature at the same temperature of $R_1$. There was little effect of $R_1$ and H/P temperature on the tenacity of TTD yarns. The elongation of TTD yarns increased with $R_1$ temperature at the same H/P temperature. The elongation of TTD yarns increased little bit for the first time and then decreased above that temperature with increasing H/P temperature at the same $R_1$ temperature. The thick and thin effect on the TTD yarns was obvious in $110^{\circ}C$ of H/P temperature regardless of $R_1$ temperature, while there was no thick and thin effect on the TTD yarns in $140^{\circ}C$ of H/P temperature.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.61-70
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• 2010

This effects of drawing conditions on the physical properties of the drawn worsted yarns were investigated. The drawn worsted yarns were made on the yarn drawing system with various drawing conditions such as concentration of reducing agent, draw ratio, setting time of drawn yarn and concentration of oxidizing agent. The dry and wet shrinkage, irregularity(CV%), thin and thick part, hairiness and abrasion resistance of these various specimens were measured and discussed in terms of various drawing conditions.