• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.167-182
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to examine the art nouveau fashion represented in the end of the twentieth century. The characteristics of art nouveau are naturalism, medievalism , exoticism, and decadentism. The influences of art nouveau were seen in the fashion of the late nineteenth century : S-curve silhouette and organic curve motives printed on hems. Art nouveau has reappeared in modern fashion trends such as romanticism , decadence, ecology, ethno, and fusion. To sum up, art nouveau fashion at the end of the twentieth century is classified into four shapes. First, art nouveau appears in naturalism. Influenced by the arts and crafts movements and naturalistic trend, it has reappeared at the end of the twentieth century in themes like 'art & craft'. This expression technique is to objectively nature and to represented art nouveau textiles. Second, S-curve silhouette appeared at the end of nineteenth century's fashion with the art nouveau influenced rejection of the bustle style. At the end of the twentieth century, the design , emphasizing the hip, is represented in fashion collections as a phenomenon of romanticism . Especially the art nouveau silhouette of the end of the twentieth century does not represent S-curve silhouette. But , it emphasizes the hip only. Third, Art nouveau exoticism by symbolism is influenced by Chinese and Celtic art, the Middle Ages, and the exoticism that appeared in fashion at the end of the nineteenth century : harem style, kimono style, and turbans. Exoticism at the end of the twentieth century is expressed by optical flower prints and successive floral print arrangements as seen in the themes of ethno and fusion. Fourth, one of the characteristics of art nouveau, decadence is influenced by the pre-raphaelite brotherhood. This is expressed in the images of vampires, and symbolism expressing grotesque insect motives and decadent successive curves. At the end of the twentieth century decadence is represented in fashion ; grotesque insect motives, tatto looks of organic curve motives celtic hair style, see-through fashion, grotesque make-up . Besides hair style techniques, decadent expressions applying art nouveau paintings also appeared. Finally , art nouveau fashion represented as a fashion trend at the turning point to the new millennium is one of great significance as an organic, an environment-intimate and continuance-possible design in a future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.4
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• pp.52-75
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• 2014

The purpose of this research is to classify the historical features of mid-to-late twentieth century Korean fashion with a focus on 'Nora Noh', who is a first generation Korean fashion designer. The specific questions of this research are as follows: how did mid-to-late twentieth century Korean fashion and the Nora Noh brand develop and what is the relationship between the two? What are the important features of Korean women's fashion design in the mid-to-late twentieth century? What are the characteristics exhibited in each decade in Korean women's fashion and Nora Noh's fashion? This paper conducted the research by focusing on the Korean fashion development as a background of simplification in the way of dressing and specific historical incident. Researchers deployed a qualitative research method providing a systematic review of the previous studies by analyzing content as well as eleven oral statement interviews and the case study of Nora Noh. The result shows that Nora Noh is one of the first generation of Korean fashion designers who led fashion trend and system in Korea. The designer also influenced Korean commercial fashion in the 1970s and American fashion trends in the 1980s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.2
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• pp.78-92
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• 2008

The mutual relationship between fashion and architecture and the similarities in their form and structure have been continuously debated over the decades, considering that both spheres are objects used in human life. Both spheres bring about the creation of three-dimensional space structures that are completed by the human body and material, based on a design targeted for people. The similarities between fashion and architecture in terms of form and structure have been debated by western architecture scholars focusing on the support that holds the garment's shape, the tailoring of a men's suit and also the material. The debate originates from the discussion of F. Th. Vischer, Kritische Gnge, and Gottfried Semper during the nineteenth century on the similarities between crinoline and the form of architecture and also the similarities between sewing and architecture. However, architects always regarded fashion as the inferior creative process that follows architecture in viewing the relationship between fashion and architecture. During the mid to end of the twentieth century, contrary to previous decades, the sense of fashion in architecture stood out, as an issue and a different approach was taken in discussing architecture that incorporates fashion. Accordingly, in the mid 1990's, architecture scholars such as Deborah Fausch and Mark Wigley began to conduct close observation of the mutual relationship between fashion and architecture from a more equal point of view. Notwithstanding, their point of view was still biased towards architectural standards. Commencing the Millennium, fashion has become the primary work of creation which leads style in all spheres, and under these circumstances this point of view has transferred from architecture to fashion when thinking about relationships between these spheres. The discussion on fashion and architecture form fashion's point of view is currently concentrated on the post 1990's phenomenon and illustrates the environment that is related to architecture. In general, the discussion is limited to determining a work of an individual designer as 'being architectural' when explaining the sculptural form of fashion. Therefore, this research aims to renew the discussion on twentieth century fashion design, which was neglected in any studies on observing architecture and fashion. The aim of this research is to classify the architectural paradigm of twentieth century fashion design and to observe the architectural forms of the respective eras. It is necessary to have a close observation of the architectural paradigm in twentieth century fashion design where support tools such as the crinoline was avoided and the form and functionality of the garment itself was emphasized. I will conduct this research by considering the architectural form shown in fashion as a practical three-dimensional creation that exists in space.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.34-40
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• 2006

Fascism is a term that began to be used from the late 1930s, means an idea and a system that the strong power of the state intervenes or control people's life based on the argument that the existential value of individuals is found only in the total. Fascist looks, which resulted from World War I and II, had brought a new pattern in women's fashion inspired by men's military uniforms. Thus, the purpose of this study was to identify fascist fashion trends in the first half of the twentieth century and to infer various aesthetic values of fascism expressed in fascist fashion looks. The results of this study indicated that expressions of fascism reflected the current ideology of rebellion and appealed to the original national sentiment of the masses. Fascism occurred in response to the contradiction of capitalism and its general crisis had emerged as an ideology with the highest popularity symbolizing power and government during the first half of the twentieth century. It was expressed in military looks as self-centered nationalism and yearning for minorities. Second, fascist fashion looks were not only for political and sexual temptation with the image of power but also for the display of women's status and roles through the bold expression of sexual attractiveness. Finally, fascist fashion looks expressed medieval images praising the feudal age in imagination that contained heroism and at the same time achieved integration under strict social hierarchical order.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.148-159
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to understand continuity and discontinuity of the neoclassic style in early twentieth century fashion modernism. Researching relations in fashion between eighteenth to nineteenth century and twentieth century, the theory of 'linked solution' suggested by Kubler and Broadsky has been accepted. The results of this study are as follows: In early twentieth century fashion, continuity of the neoclassic style is considered as presentation of geometric form based on anatomical truth of the human body and moderation of decoration. Also simple construction to present practical purpose of the dress in honesty were continued. On the other hand, discontinuity of the style is found in the imitation of men's classic tailored suits and standardization of sizes and styles. These are considered to reflect such early twentieth century sociocultural contexts as equality of the sexes and mechanical aesthetics. Hopefully this study will contribute to the broadening of insight in fashion connecting traditions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.4
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• pp.126-145
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• 2010

The purpose of this research is to classify the design features of twentieth century women's tennis wear. The specific research questions are; how tennis has developed and what is the relationship between tennis wear and modern dress? What are the important developments in women's tennis wear design in the twentieth century? What are the characteristics exhibited in each decade in women's tennis dress? This paper conducted current research by considering the women's tennis wear as a background of dress simplification. Forty pictures showing tennis wear from international tennis games' catalogues and literatures were selected for this study. Researchers employed a qualitative research method providing a systematic review of the previous studies analyzed by content. The results show that sportswear has become an important trend in contemporary fashion. Tennis wear also had influence on modern dress. Current development is concentrated on functional new materials and sports marketing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.426-435
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to consider the changes of the early twentieth century fashion in pursuit of mechanical beauty. As for the research methodology, literature survey has been undertaken. The results of this study are as following. In early twentieth century, fashion concept on the expression of mechanical beauty was considered as abstractness, atypicality, and high-tech. The abstractness of fashion was expressed by geometrical purity, box silhouette, moderate color, and cheap materials in association with mechanical reasonability and efficiency. The atypicality of fashion was connected progressive taste motivated by mechanical dynamic effect. This tendency of dress was constructed technically in response with the movement of body and totally transgressed conventional notions of clothing. The high-tech of fashion was presented by geometrical forms and metal materials in relation with the future-oriented utopia and the harmony between human and machine.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 2009

As foundation wear, underwear is the starting point where a woman shapes her figure and constructs a female identity. In the late twentieth century, the use of underwear as outerwear was extensively adapted, so underwear as outerwear is the latest thing today. Based on literature review, this study aimed to examine how underwear was adopted for use as outerwear extensively in the late twentieth century. The result of this study can be summarized as follows. First, originally there was no border between underwear and outerwear at the start. With the change of female social and political status, the function of underwear and its design has been changed diversely. Also, its revealing and decoration has been linked with female sexual attraction. Second, by some precursor fashion designers such as Vivienne Westwood and Jean Paul Gaultier, underwear was redefined as outerwear with erotic but powerful meaning in the Twentieth century. Their idea had an enormous influence on contemporary fashion culture, and consequently has become popularized like lingerie look today. Third, the change of female social status led a big change in view on the female sexuality and the ideas of femininity in fashion culture in the Twentieth century. Dressed by Gaultier, Madonna's performance wearing corset costume played a role in redefining contemporary femininity in relation to sexuality and power, even though it is still under the controversy.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.10a
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• pp.50-51
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• 2001

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.595-602
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• 2007

This study examined the aesthetic characteristics of Grecian style which is being considered as the representative classic of Western fashion and the transformations of those Grecian styles on the fashion of the twentieth century. This study used positive research method using literatures on art history and clothing history, fashion related publications, and magazines and websites to understand the trend of fashion designer's collections. The study results are as follows. The aesthetic characteristics of Grecian style was considered to be the ideal beauty combined with symmetry, the functional beauty combined with non-construction, and the sensual beauty combined with natural body. The ideal beauty combined with symmetry appears as a style that shows idealistic proportion of a body emphasizing high-waist based on the golden ratio and the body as a whole rather than details. The functional beauty combined with non-construction appears as perfect recreation a body in its original and natural form. The clothing takes a form that does not have any structural design and has simplified cutting and sewing. It uses pins and strings to fix up the form of clothing which is flexible and naturally draped. The sensual beauty combined with natural body is found in natural silhouette dress alluding naked body in connection with Rousseau' naturalism in neoclassic period. Throughout the twentieth century, the desire for Grecian style was conveyed by a single detail or through an array of allusive effects.