• 복식
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• 제50권2호
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• pp.167-182
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to examine the art nouveau fashion represented in the end of the twentieth century. The characteristics of art nouveau are naturalism, medievalism , exoticism, and decadentism. The influences of art nouveau were seen in the fashion of the late nineteenth century : S-curve silhouette and organic curve motives printed on hems. Art nouveau has reappeared in modern fashion trends such as romanticism , decadence, ecology, ethno, and fusion. To sum up, art nouveau fashion at the end of the twentieth century is classified into four shapes. First, art nouveau appears in naturalism. Influenced by the arts and crafts movements and naturalistic trend, it has reappeared at the end of the twentieth century in themes like 'art & craft'. This expression technique is to objectively nature and to represented art nouveau textiles. Second, S-curve silhouette appeared at the end of nineteenth century's fashion with the art nouveau influenced rejection of the bustle style. At the end of the twentieth century, the design , emphasizing the hip, is represented in fashion collections as a phenomenon of romanticism . Especially the art nouveau silhouette of the end of the twentieth century does not represent S-curve silhouette. But , it emphasizes the hip only. Third, Art nouveau exoticism by symbolism is influenced by Chinese and Celtic art, the Middle Ages, and the exoticism that appeared in fashion at the end of the nineteenth century : harem style, kimono style, and turbans. Exoticism at the end of the twentieth century is expressed by optical flower prints and successive floral print arrangements as seen in the themes of ethno and fusion. Fourth, one of the characteristics of art nouveau, decadence is influenced by the pre-raphaelite brotherhood. This is expressed in the images of vampires, and symbolism expressing grotesque insect motives and decadent successive curves. At the end of the twentieth century decadence is represented in fashion ; grotesque insect motives, tatto looks of organic curve motives celtic hair style, see-through fashion, grotesque make-up . Besides hair style techniques, decadent expressions applying art nouveau paintings also appeared. Finally , art nouveau fashion represented as a fashion trend at the turning point to the new millennium is one of great significance as an organic, an environment-intimate and continuance-possible design in a future.

• 복식
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• 제61권7호
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• pp.80-100
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• 2011

The purpose of this research is to classify that fashion and art in the twentieth century broadened the creative field by individually applying each other's ideas or through collaboration. This paper analyses the work of individual artists and fashion designers who created work on the boundaries of fashion and art. These samples are selected to extract features related to specific periods as it is proposed that contemporary creation has been developed from a combination of fashion and art, sharing their distinct concerns. Accordingly, this research will focus on the collaboration between fashion and art in the twentieth century from the aspect of 'fashion into art'/'art into fashion' in order to analyse the historical flow, and thereby examine the relationship between fashion and art. The cross-fertilization between fashion and art was initiated as an imitation of form in the early twentieth century, and led to a 'new cross-disciplinary form' which exists on the boundary of fashion and art. This paper considers the relationship between fashion and art from the perspective of sharing intrinsic concepts and the creation of a new creative sphere. It analyses the characteristics of the works of fashion designers and artists whose works lie on the boundary between fashion and art.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권4호
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• pp.55-66
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• 1997

This study is an indepth analysis of the environment surrounding the evolvement of western make-up culture, its transition during the twentieth century and its cultural characteristics with an aim to analyze people's aesthetic sense during the twentieth century and the western make-up culture which stands as the foremost important measure of its reflection. In order to accomplish this task, I have centered my studies on previous records, documents, articles, magazines, and pictorial data on art and motion pictures all of which involve the art of clothing and make-up. First, 'total fashion' make-up which seeks general harmony of color and figure in order to achieve unified beauty with other elements of beauty such as clothing is emphasized. Second, twentieth century make-up has expressed women's social status and value of each different time culture. Third, make-up has transformed its role from that of expressing only women's beauty to that of expressing resistance and opinion. Fourth, in the midst of material-centered societies spread due to high level of industrialization, development of highly functional make-up(biocosmetics) emerged as people became more conscious of nature and started to aggressively pursue protection.

• 한국가구학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.324-336
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• 2007

Throughout the twentieth century, American furniture was subject to a number of influences-both domestic and foreign. Especially, in the first half of the twentieth century, there were strong foreign influences compare to the later half of the century. Therefore, this study aimed for discussing foreign influences and for addressing issues such as attitudes toward materials, ornamentation, and technology. As a result, this study suggests how American furniture becomes instinctive moving away from strong foreign influences from the second half of the century. The twentieth century was a period of rapid and dynamic change for American furniture design. In many ways, the designs throughout the century were reflective of the social, political, and economic culture of the time. With the birth of the modern movement in Europe and a strong influx of foreign immigrants, American design in the first half of the century was characterized by a reliance on European and foreign influences. However, after the two world wars, strong domestic influences came into play. The two world wars provided the essential catalysts for change: new materials, developing technology, and changes in life style and consumer values. A historical examination of design trends and individual designers illustrates how American furniture design evolved during this period.

• 복식
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• 제51권3호
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• pp.59-73
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• 2001

This paper is to examine the meaning of activities of a number of artists who belong to Constructivism in the fashion design area during early twentieth century. After Russian Revolution, the artists like Nadeshda Lamanowa, Ljubow Popowa and Warwara Stepanova decided to devote to practical art area for many People. It's very meaningful for them to jump into real work places like a textile mill and a clothing workshop instead of staying in fine art area. Constructivism is more related to social interest rather than individual thing. The artists tried to apply their modeling principles in fine art to dress making. We can see the geometrical lines and shapes and big differences In colors and material in their dress. The artists had also shown personal tastes to dress works. This idea of togetherness with their time and even to create the style of it. was very renovative at that time and gave an influence on the later styles.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2001년도 International Costume Conference:Exploring Global Costume Culture
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• pp.50-51
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• 2001

• 한국디자인학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국디자인학회 2001년도 Bulletin of The 5th Asian Design Conference International Symposium on Design Science
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• pp.79-79
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• 2001

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.111-126
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• 2001

This study concentrates on the relationship between the early 20th century italian artists and their works in the field of clothing design. They advocated the creation of art for life and introduced a new type of work of art which I will call 'experimental clothing for art'. The experimental clothing for art showed its dynamic characteristics in the field s of line and form, color, pattern, and material. The Italian artists made simple and functionalistic dresses, using asymmetric, geometric cuts. in pattern making. They employed dynamic patterns in textile design and favored brilliant colors which they debunked as storage and traditional. With regard to material, they used unusual materials such as metal, net, wire, and paper and inexpensive materials. To investigations of the visual expression of experimental clothing for art in Italy have led us to the internal expressions which are avant-garde, dynamic & speed, functionality & popularity, ephemeral & transformable, and warlike. As a result of the reflection of the times and the artists's will and roles the experimental clothing for art in Italy implicated contemporary clothing in the early twentieth century and it was only laboratory art that underwent various experiments in canvas but a model of efforts for the at of living, which was anti-traditional. It offered a new future and created a new environment. It is left for future research how the experimental clothing for art developed in countries other than Italian.

• 복식
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• 제58권2호
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• pp.78-92
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• 2008

The mutual relationship between fashion and architecture and the similarities in their form and structure have been continuously debated over the decades, considering that both spheres are objects used in human life. Both spheres bring about the creation of three-dimensional space structures that are completed by the human body and material, based on a design targeted for people. The similarities between fashion and architecture in terms of form and structure have been debated by western architecture scholars focusing on the support that holds the garment's shape, the tailoring of a men's suit and also the material. The debate originates from the discussion of F. Th. Vischer, Kritische Gnge, and Gottfried Semper during the nineteenth century on the similarities between crinoline and the form of architecture and also the similarities between sewing and architecture. However, architects always regarded fashion as the inferior creative process that follows architecture in viewing the relationship between fashion and architecture. During the mid to end of the twentieth century, contrary to previous decades, the sense of fashion in architecture stood out, as an issue and a different approach was taken in discussing architecture that incorporates fashion. Accordingly, in the mid 1990's, architecture scholars such as Deborah Fausch and Mark Wigley began to conduct close observation of the mutual relationship between fashion and architecture from a more equal point of view. Notwithstanding, their point of view was still biased towards architectural standards. Commencing the Millennium, fashion has become the primary work of creation which leads style in all spheres, and under these circumstances this point of view has transferred from architecture to fashion when thinking about relationships between these spheres. The discussion on fashion and architecture form fashion's point of view is currently concentrated on the post 1990's phenomenon and illustrates the environment that is related to architecture. In general, the discussion is limited to determining a work of an individual designer as 'being architectural' when explaining the sculptural form of fashion. Therefore, this research aims to renew the discussion on twentieth century fashion design, which was neglected in any studies on observing architecture and fashion. The aim of this research is to classify the architectural paradigm of twentieth century fashion design and to observe the architectural forms of the respective eras. It is necessary to have a close observation of the architectural paradigm in twentieth century fashion design where support tools such as the crinoline was avoided and the form and functionality of the garment itself was emphasized. I will conduct this research by considering the architectural form shown in fashion as a practical three-dimensional creation that exists in space.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제9권9호
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• pp.134-142
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• 2009

20세기에 접어들면서 예술작품의 발전과 변화는 관람자에게 영향을 미쳤다. 관람자는 회화와 조작과 같은 예술 작품을 감상할 때 흔히 그 주위를 살펴보는 관조적이고 수동적인 관람 자세를 보인다. 20세기 양차대전의 격변기를 거치면서 예술작품의 변화는 관람자의 참여를 요구하였다. 관람자 역할이 능동적으로 변화하고 있는 것은 감상하는 작품의 변화와 연관관계를 가진다. 20세기 중반 매체발달과 컴퓨터의 발명으로 관람자는 적극적인 이용자의 위치에 이르렀다. 또한 현재의 관람자는 이용자에서 제작자로 위치 변화를 시도하고 있다. 본 연구는 나오꼬 토사의 $\ll$ZENetic Computer$\gg$ 작품을 통해서 제작자의 위치를 넘보는 현대적 관람자의 역할을 고찰함으로써 이러한 흐름을 조명하였다.