• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.75-84
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• 2009

The following research analyzed the sewing teaching of the tailored jacket shown in fashion textbooks, which are currently used in universities and educational organizations in the fashion industry. To analyze the sewing teaching of tailored jackets, we analyzed 35 textbooks in the market. Among them we used 14 textbooks which dealt with the patter formation method of tailored jackets, and cutting and sewing methods. First, the stitching direction and the location of attachment varied. The type of sticking tape and its position also differed, emphasizing the need to make an institutionalized education material which is based on the characteristic of the fabric and its silhouette. Second, controlling the ease length of the right side sewing princess line, or information about the shoulder line and sleeve line of the notch as not specifically shown in the textbooks. Furthermore, not many textbooks showed how to pull the lower part of the texture out of sight, nor did they explain why this needed to be done. Third, the lining is usually slightly larger than the outer texture of the clothing, as the lining is usually tugged in the sewing process, and this method makes the clothes more comfortable. The method of sewing the princessline $0.2{\sim}0.3cm$ outside the outer pattern was the most recommended. The center-back side was usually 2cm in activity measurements, but it turned out that a textbook which required ease treatment on the shoulder line did not do so on the lining material. The textbooks used in this research dealt only with how to manufacture a tailored jacket without full explanation about textures which could influence the manufacturing. The production method and process differed between different textbooks, showing the need to make a institutionalized education material. In a quickly-changing era where there is rapid change in the dressmaking procedure, we need to help students understand the process more easily through a formalized education process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.3
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• pp.131-144
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• 2009

This study is about single-layered $Chog{\breve{a}}ri$ excavated from SongHyosang(宋效商, 1430-1490, SHS hereafter), SongHeeJong(宋喜從, the late 1500s, SHJ hereafter) tombs. There are 7 single-layered $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ for men. We focus on comparison of their design and sowing method. 1. Design: Investigating collar, $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ from SHS have MokpanGit and $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ from SHJ have KalGit. KalGit has been seen from SHJ to 17th, 18th and 19th centuries. After the late 1500s, there is no MokpanGit single-laTered $Chog{\breve{a}}ri$ for men. Side panel under arm has various shapes(triangle, trapezoid, triangle+trapezoid) in 15th century. After the late 1500s, It changes into no side panel. Two $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ with no side panel from SHJ reveals that the late 1500s is a period of transition. 2. Sewing method: First, researching lengthwise grainline of the fly, the left fly has lengthwise grainline outside In four, inside in three. The right fly has lengthwise grainline outside in just one, the others have lengthwise grainline inside. Compared with today's way, there is a great difference, but in those times there isn't an established rule. This is true of side panel under arm. The sewing method are backstitch, running stitch, and hemming. Researching the construction method of seam, in putting two selvages together, open seam and plain seam are used. In putting selvage and bias, bias and bias together, flat felled seam and french seam are used. This study shows that single-layered $Chog{\breve{a}}ri$ far men from 15C. to 16C. has changes of design such as collar(Git) and side panel undo. arm. But there is little change in sewing method.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.8 s.108
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• pp.113-122
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• 2006

In this study, about forty teaching materials have been analyzed in order to examine tight skirt sewing methodtreated in basic process in a college and a fashion related educational institution. The study objects limited with a belt, back centered zipper, and back double slits on a tight skirt, and used fifteen suitable teaching materials in this study. The first study result appeared that every single teaching material suggested the different way of wick adhesion which is used in zipper slit, back slit, and belt part when the skit has been manufactured in order to do a form of clothes well. Secondly, it is the case of a back slit part used for the purpose of both functionality of action and decoration, and it is the section which varies a sewing and cutting way according to seam room width of a back middle seam. However, the majority of teaching materials appeared by being selecting the way how it had cut an inseam of the back center by the both upper part of back slit. Finally, the result showed that it mentioned mainly only both sided zipper sewing method if it seems to be easy to treat the majority in a basic process even though use of a console zipper Is general on a zipper sowing way recently for several years. Also, two forms are used in the belt manufacturing, and they are based with a waist line. However, the teaching materials that were used in this study presented only a manufacture way of the straight line on the waist belt.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.30
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• pp.69-84
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• 1996

The main current of ancient Korean thought is based on Yuk(易) : which solves the principle of creation of universe letter(文字) which is the principle of geometry and three elements thought of circle square . It's related to the creation principle of the universe and regarded as a sign that demons-trates shows the way to read the mathematical principle. The original form of Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) is represents the structure of hu-man body which reflects a small universe. So a good structure and meaning of the human body is well read in the formation of Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) and that is a good symbolization of the clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) as the space of small universe. The good formation of Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) could be shown by cutting out straight bending twisting and turning each straitly cutting piece is applied to its trans-tormation. Geametical formation with obvious sym-metric dividing of front-back left-right and top-bottom is well shown in Korean clothes by twisting Yuk(易) or m bius strips. So we can find out whole formation by representing only either 'front and back' or 'left and right' and also sa-pok(사폭) of man's trousers seop(섶) of jeo-go-ri(short jacket 저고리) kyut-ma-gi(곁마기) of Sam-hwai-jang jeo-go-ri (삼회장 저고리), mu(무) of jig-ryung(straight collar and long and wide sleeved robe, 直領) trouser wide and ga-rae-ba-dae(가래바대) of dan-cok-kok(woman's under trousers). The formation line of Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) is based on theprinciple of unlimited m bius strips by twisting of turning direction from universal principle and original basic form is not changd even by turning in-side out. Unity of the whole and part in Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) could be found in nonorientable thought(非始原思想) which represents the unity and dependence kil(길) of jeo-go-ri(short jacket, 저고리) and po(long and wide sleeved robe, 袍). Selva-gewise(식서방향) of sleeves and seam of out-side of kil(길) and outside of seop(섶) are directed to outside of seop(섶) inside of seop(섶) is to kil and direction of inseam of kheut-dong(끝동) and kyut-ma-gi(곁마기) is directed to sleeves. Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) is usually made by cutting fabric for several parts and sewing them and the way to make Korean clothes is deeply related to the theory of chon-pu-kyung jong-il and il-seok -sam-geuk. As the development of men's consciousness is pro-gressed from total separation to separation and superseparation. Sewing process of korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) can be make single dimension to double or triple dimension of korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) silhoutte bacause it can be include principle of topology as noneuclity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.744-755
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• 2024

This study analyzes the characteristics, product dimensions, and ease of haenyeo suits to inform their reproduction. Large, medium, and small haenyeo suits were collected from four manufacturers in Jeju, and their components, cut styles, product dimensions, and ease were analyzed. In the current haenyeo suit design, the upper suit has a collar and a crotch, while the lower suit has a high rise with a gusset. Additionally, there are darts behind the neck in the upper suit and behind the knees in the lower suit. Haenyeo suits have a three-dimensional shape that accommodates the postures needed for haenyeo's underwater activities. The upper suit is finished with a cuffed hem or an uncuffed side seam with a diagonal or stepped cut. The lower suit is cut and sewn with the waist and hem at right angles or with the hem diagonal to the waistline. Haenyeo suit dimensions vary between manufacturers, and the models' body dimensions show that there is little or no ease. In conclusion, haenyeo suit manufacturers currently use the same components; however, they differ in terms of cut styles, sewing methods, dimensions, and designs.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.127-140
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• 1998

A study on the construction of Dan-Ryung in the early 16th century based on the shrouds from excavated tomb of Kim, Heum-Jo(1461-1528) is reported in this paper. This study is aimed at establishing database for a traditional Korean costume construction and emphasizing the necessity for development of methodology in writing report from excavated costume including measuring, construction methods and materials. This paper includes examples of measured length for each part of 'Dan-Ryung', reconstructured drawings, pictures, and construction methods. The followings on the construction of Dan-Ryung in the early 16th century are found in this study: 1) Dan-Ryung robes were made of less expensive hemp, cotton, silk & cotton, and ramie & silk. 2) As a whole, Dan-Ryung was lengthy and spacious and it had straighter and narrower sleeves when compared to the ones from the late Chosun. 3) There existed Moo which was large rectangular guest with double pleats at Dan-Ryung's side seam. Its round collar was constructed with a 3 cm width bias. Ball buttons on the outer collar and loops on the right shoulder are attached. 4) There existed a pair of indirectly attached slim and short strings. Inside string is directly attached. 5) Inside of the shoulder, a U-shaped shoulder pad made of the same cloth as the inner cloth was attached. hand sewing methods used include delicate flat-felled seam stitch, back-stitch and sew-up stitch.

• Journal of the Korean association of regional geographers
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.183-198
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• 1997

This case study was conducted by verification the site characteristics based on the questionnaire and interview obtained from the all factories located at No. 1 developing area in Kumi industrial complex. The site characteristics were presumed from the process of location behavior and spatial linkage. Kumi industrial complex was developed to improve export industry at national levels by providing chief land price and benefiting various tax. Kumi industrial complex which enticed many factories is playing an important role in export industry in Korea. At beginning, the detention of large enterprises promoted the establishment of related small to medium sized factories into the complex. Two distinctive industries. textile and electronic, were reflected by the purpose to establish the complex and industrial characteristics of Taegu city. respectively. In Kumi industrial complex, positive responses on traffic and raw material supply and negative reactions on the environmental impact on social community as well as high labor charge were investigated. Especially the higher labor cost prevented to hire laborers effectively. In the linkages of spatial and raw material, most factories in the complex depended on the availability of out side the Kumi city. For the textile factories, the supply of raw material and parts were relied on Taegu and/or other cities, whereas in electronic factories purchased them mainly from other cities and partly from abroad. Although questionnaire and interview suggested it, most of the parts were supplied by a parts maturing companies on the complex to a few large enterprises. In the marketing linkage, textile factories revealed higher relation-ship with the foreign countries and sewing factories in Korea. On the other hand, electronic factories have strong relation-ships in the marketing linkage to the parts supplying companies in the complex or large-scale resembling companies in other cities. In the textile companies, the right for decision on purchasing raw materials and parts is belonging to the owner whereas mother enterprise usually have the right for the marketing. In the case of the electronic factories, all the purchasing activities are related to the sub-contracting companies. In the service linkage, the Quality of the service created spatial distinction. There was high linkages on inside of Kumi complex for the low grade services such as repairing and installing machines, whereas strong linkages on outside of the complex for the high grade services such as management, law, taxation, new product development. and manufacturing technology. In the linkages of activity on the R&D (research and development), electronic factories do not have sufficiently qualified institutes in the complex. Strong regional linkages in the field of textile and electronic industries revealed limitations of the local industrial complex. In the sub-contracting linkage, high linkage ship within Kumi boundary reflected the characteristics of industrial site in the complex. There, most decisions by the companies centered by the mother enterprise.