• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.141-151
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to suggest the skirt grading rule for different somatotypes. For this study 9 subjects were classified three types according to the shape of front hips such as diamond, standard, heart. Skirts pattern were made by Moonwha grading method for traditional grading rule. For each somatotypes, skirt pattern were graded by new grading rule. The sensory evaluations were practiced for appearance and function. At the result, comparing between the new grading rule and traditional grading rule, new grading rule was fitter than the traditional grading rule. And diamond type was distinctively better than the other somatotype at sensory evaluation appearance. For pattern making of diamond type it had better use the new grading rule that was considered the characteristics of body shape.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.13-22
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to develop pattern and grading method of slacks of adults women of standard somatotype to prove fitness of lower body shape. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: 1. the 4 pattern were compared by the sensory evaluation to choose which one is more appropriate to this research. The slacks pattern developed by modification from L method. 2. The results of the sensory evaluation have down that the new slacks pattern have better fit than the traditional pattern. 3. The standard sized patterns were graded using Moonwha grading rule as a traditional one and the new grading rule. The new grading rule was developed by fitting the slacks which were made by traditional grading rule. 4. The results of the sensory evaluation have down that the slacks made by the new grading rule developed in this work have better fit than the ones made by the traditional grading rule.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.11
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• pp.1-9
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• 2002

Nowadays, the use of apparel CAD system is important to the mass production of ready to wear Especially, computer-based grading is the most important process to improve the fitness of clothes and to reduce the time needed to make patterns of several sizes. The purpose of this study was to suggest a standard sizing system for junior-high school girls' lower clothes and to suggest a grading method according to the sizing systems. The subjects were 402 junior-high school girls of 13 to 15 year's-old. The size intervals of waist girth and hip girth were 3㎝ and 4㎝ respectively. The sizing system, which had frequencies more than 4.5%, was classified 8 cases. For regular grading, two types of group were classified into 58-82/61-86/64-90/67-94 and 61-82/64-86/67-90/70-94. Among them, 61-86 and 64-86 size were adopted the basic size for the development of grading. According to the sizing system, hand-made patterns were manufactured. By measure of the each part of the slacks, new grading rule patterns were developed by each size. A new grading rule was different from the Moonwha grading rule. This result will contribute to clothing fitness of consumer and the amount of production.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.934-942
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• 2011

This study was intended to analyze conventional grading increments and methods for middle-age men's pants, and to suggest new grading guidelines that will enable to improve satisfaction with size and silhouette as a result of combining the concept of grading, which help maintain the ratio and proportion by sizes as one of ready-made apparel's advantages, with body form oriented and aesthetic approaches. In the apparel industry, the current sizing specifications and methods adopted by relevant companies, as well as the characteristics of body forms of men aged 35 to 55 years were comparatively analyzed to find out problems and ultimately to suggest their solutions or improvements. It was considered that as the conventional grading practices used in the industry were customary on the basis of the past experiences, it was required to take the body forms of target consumers into account and also, to reconsider the conventional grading methods. Analyses of sizing and specifications by brands show that 4 to 19 sizes including 82 or 84 as standard size have been produced. Since men's apparel has a large number of sizes with the large range of sizes, grading is critically important. As silhouettes depend on the distribution of grading rule values at each point of increment pattern in the main regions during grading, it is necessary to consider both size grading and form variations. To maintain an appropriate silhouette with keeping the angle of center back line of a pattern, it is desirable to set the ratio of side line part to center part from the crease line to approximately 3:7. It is required to diversify the values of grading rules according to different sizes and pattern regions in consideration for the body forms of key consumers. In addition, if the natural lines of designs and patterns for the width increments of waist circumference and hip circumference, the increments of hip width in pant's front and back panels, the ratio of grading rule values of the right and left sides of crease line, knee circumference, thigh circumference and so on are taken into account, grading will be satisfactory in the all aspects of size, silhouette and ratio.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.634-640
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• 2004

Nowadays, the use of apparel CAD system is important to the mass production of ready to wear. Especially, computer-based grading is the most important process to improve the fitness of clothes and to reduce the time needed to make various size pattern. The purpose of this study was to suggest a standard sizing system for high school boys' pants and to suggest a grading method according to the sizing systems. The subjects were 217 high school boys of 16 to 18 year-old. The size intervals of waist girth and hip girth were 3 cm and 4 cm respectively. The sizing system, which had frequencies more than 4%, was classified 8 cases. Among them, 71-92 and 71-88 size were the most frequent size and were adopted the basic size for the two types of grading. According to the sizing system, hand-made patterns were manufactured. By measure of the each part of the slacks, 4 size's new grading-rule patterns were developed by each size. This result will contribute to clothing fitness of consumer and the amount of production.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.9_10
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• pp.1048-1059
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• 2003

This study focusses pattern draft and grading of jeans for women in their 20s, who consume jeans the most. Pattern was drafted based on existing patterns collected from companies. It is different from the existing educational patterns. It suggests new sizing system for twenties referring to sizes used companies and grading rule and method. he results were as follows; 1. Companies manufacture 2-8 sizes and they referred to the Korean Industrial Standards, KS K 0051, for their sizing system. 2. Drawing method for Pattern of the study had following measurements for each part: in the case of waist circumference, front part was W/4+1.5cm, back part was W14+2cm, front hip circumference was H/4-1.5cm, crotch line was the crotch length (practical measurement), hip circumference was (upper crotch line length)/5+0.5cm, front crotch part was 2.7cm, back crotch part was W/5+2.7cm, knee height was (the length of leg)/2+6cm and the circumference of knee and the tip of pants were 40cm. Through the wearing test on the subject of twenties, researched pattern received higher ratings, especially in appearance than the existing pattern. 3. 5 sizes system was made referred to the sizing system of companies and National Anthropometric Survey of Korean in 1997 Grading rule for 12 grading points of front part and 13 grading points of back part was suggested. Results of wearing test on the graded patterns showed high ratings similar to standard size.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.5
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• pp.839-852
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• 2023

This study examined personal protective clothing, specifically the D (M, L, XL) and C (L, XL, 2XL) levels with high sales rates. The goal was to collect essential data for developing Korean personal protective clothing. There were eight and twelve patterns for the D-level and C-level, respectively. While the pattern dimensions were similar, the chest and waist circumferences (relaxed) were larger in the C-level, and the waist (extended), hip, upper arm circumference, and total lengths were larger in the D-level. The D-level wear sensation worked well for average-sized Koreans in their twenties, but the C-level caused discomfort in multiple areas, such as the face, arms, armpits, hips, crotch, thighs, and knee during movement. Consequently, this region required pattern adjustments and resetting for improved comfort. The grading rules were 10 cm in the chest, waist, and hip circumference, regardless of the level, with slight differences in other parts depending on the levels. Thus, manufacturers should establish new grading rules to suit the Korean body shape.

• ETRI Journal
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• v.43 no.4
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• pp.694-701
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• 2021

Catastrophic events cause casualties, damage property, and lead to huge social impacts. To build common standards and facilitate international communications regarding disasters, the relevant authorities in social management rank them in subjectively imposed terms such as direct economic losses and loss of life. Terrorist attacks involving uncertain human factors, which are roughly graded based on the rule of property damage, are even more difficult to interpret and assess. In this paper, we collected 114 183 open-source records of terrorist attacks and used a machine learning method to grade them synthetically in an automatic and objective way. No subjective claims or personal preferences were involved in the grading, and each derived common factor contains the comprehensive and rich information of many variables. Our work presents a new automatic ranking approach and is suitable for a broad range of gradation problems. Furthermore, we can use this model to grade all such attacks globally and visualize them to provide new insights.

• Journal of Biosystems Engineering
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.124-137
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• 1994

Visual features of a mushroom(Lentinus Edodes, L.) are critical in grading and sorting as most agricultural products are. Because of its complex and various visual features, grading and sorting of mushrooms have been done manually by the human expert. To realize the automatic handling and grading of mushrooms in real time, the computer vision system should be utilized and the efficient and robust processing of the camera captured visual information be provided. Since visual features of a mushroom are distributed over the front and back sides, recognizing sides and states of the stalk including the stalk orientation from the captured image is a prime process in the automatic task processing. In this paper, the efficient and robust recognition process identifying the front and back side and the state of the stalk was developed and its performance was compared with other recognition trials. First, recognition was tried based on the rule set up with some experimental heuristics using the quantitative features such as geometry and texture extracted from the segmented mushroom image. And the neural net based learning recognition was done without extracting quantitative features. For network inputs the segmented binary image obtained from the combined type automatic thresholding was tested first. And then the gray valued raw camera image was directly utilized. The state of the stalk seriously affects the measured size of the mushroom cap. When its effect is serious, the stalk should be excluded in mushroom cap sizing. In this paper, the stalk removal process followed by the boundary regeneration of the cap image was also presented. The neural net based gray valued raw image processing showed the successful results for our recognition task. The developed technology through this research may open the new way of the quality inspection and sorting especially for the agricultural products whose visual features are fuzzy and not uniquely defined.

• KOREAN JOURNAL OF CROP SCIENCE
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• v.47
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• pp.63-94
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• 2002

On the purpose to suggest an advanced scheme in assessing the domestic wheat quality, this paper reviewed the inspection systems of wheat in major wheat producing countries as well as the quality criteria which are being used in wheat grading and classification. Most wheat producing countries are adopting both classifications of class and grade to provide an objective evaluation and an official certification to their wheat. There are two main purposes in the wheat classification. The first objectives of classification is to match the wheat with market requirements to maximize market opportunities and returns to growers. The second is to ensure that payments to glowers aye made on the basis of the quality and condition of the grain delivered. Wheat classes has been assigned based on the combination of cultivation area, seed-coat color, kernel and varietal characteristics that are distinctive. Most reputable wheat marketers also employ a similar approach, whereby varieties of a particular type are grouped together, designed by seed coat colour, grain hardness, physical dough properties, and sometimes more precise specification such as starch quality, all of which are genetically inherited characteristics. This classification in simplistic terms is the categorization of a wheat variety into a commercial type or style of wheat that is recognizable for its end use capabilities. All varieties registered in a class are required to have a similar end-use performance that the shipment be consistent in processing quality, cargo to cargo and year to year, Grain inspectors have historically determined wheat classes according to visual kernel characteristics associated with traditional wheat varieties. As well, any new wheat variety must not conflict with the visual distinguishability rule that is used to separate wheats of different classes. Some varieties may possess characteristics of two or more classes. Therefore, knowledge of distinct varietal characteristics is necessary in making class determinations. The grading system sets maximum tolerance levels for a range of characteristics that ensure functionality and freedom from deleterious factors. Tests for the grading of wheat include such factors as plumpness, soundness, cleanliness, purity of type and general condition. Plumpness is measured by test weight. Soundness is indicated by the absence or presence of musty, sour or commercially objectionable foreign odors and by the percentage of damaged kernels that ave present in the wheat. Cleanliness is measured by determining the presence of foreign material after dockage has been removed. Purity of class is measured by classification of wheats in the test sample and by limitation for admixtures of different classes of wheat. Moisture does not influence the numerical grade. However, it is determined on all shipments and reported on the official certificate. U.S. wheat is divided into eight classes based on color, kernel Hardness and varietal characteristics. The classes are Durum, Hard Red Spring, Hard Red Winter, Soft Red Winter, Hard White, soft White, Unclassed and Mixed. Among them, Hard Red Spring wheat, Durum wheat, and Soft White wheat are further divided into three subclasses, respectively. Each class or subclass is divided into five U.S. numerical grades and U.S. Sample grade. Special grades are provided to emphasize special qualities or conditions affecting the value of wheat and are added to and made a part of the grade designation. Canadian wheat is also divided into fourteen classes based on cultivation area, color, kernel hardness and varietal characteristics. The classes have 2-5 numerical grades, a feed grade and sample grades depending on class and grading tolerance. The Canadian grading system is based mainly on visual evaluation, and it works based on the kernel visual distinguishability concept. The Australian wheat is classified based on geographical and quality differentiation. The wheat grown in Australia is predominantly white grained. There are commonly up to 20 different segregations of wheat in a given season. Each variety grown is assigned a category and a growing areas. The state governments in Australia, in cooperation with the Australian Wheat Board(AWB), issue receival standards and dockage schedules annually that list grade specifications and tolerances for Australian wheat. AWB is managing "Golden Rewards" which is designed to provide pricing accuracy and market signals for Australia's grain growers. Continuous payment scales for protein content from 6 to 16% and screenings levels from 0 to 10% based on varietal classification are presented by the Golden Rewards, and the active payment scales and prices can change with market movements.movements.