• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 2016

Najang was the central Seori, affiliated to the Ministry of War during the Joseon dynasty. The objective of this study is to research the existing authentic Najang costumes from the late-Joseon dynasty by examining factors, such as the composition of the costume, size, and method of creation, and attempt to replicate it. The Leipzig Grassi Museum in Germany possesses an official uniform of Najang from the late-Joseon dynasty, and we visited the museum in May of 2013 to examine it for the study. Written records, or Uigwe, and other pictorial data from the Joseon Dynastry describe the Najang wearing black or navy clothing with white decoration and pointy hats. The most notable characteristic of the Najang uniform is that it has the cotton cords pattern. The hat has a brass ball attached, which was worn with the ball facing the front in the early Joseon Dynasty, and was worn facing the back in the later years. They usually wore black head cloths (Heuk-geon), but would attach feathers on the black hats (Heuk-rip) for special occasions. The Najang uniform preserved in the Leipsiz Grassi Muesim does not exist in Korea. It is made of cotton. The cotton cord pattern of the uniform of Najang was made using single-ply cords and double-ply cords. The hat worn by Najang is in a form of a cone that becomes narrower towards the top or is in a form with wide and open end. It was made of oiled paper covered with hemp, and two circular metal disks were attatched at the rear.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.36
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• pp.169-184
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• 2018

This paper reveals the double meaning of the temporal background and spatial background on Shimchungga. Its temporal background is the fictional and romantic time of the story, while the time of the weary lives of ordinary people is realistic and historical in the late Joseon Dynasty. The spatial background has a dual meaning that reminds us of the ancient capital of China and Seoul of the Joseon Dynasty. Namgyeong, a spatial background is fictional and romantic where the daughter of the public, Simcheong, becomes "The mother of all the people." In addition, Namgyeong reminds us of Seoul, the capital of Joseon Dynasty. Shimchungga is based on the customs and manners of the late Joseon Dynasty, and it is embodied by borrowing time and space from China. It is recalled Joseon's as backgrounds of China First of all, Namgyeong on Shimchungga is the ultimate attraction of the free imagination of the ordinary people as well as Shin, Jae-hyo in the late Joseon Dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.5
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• pp.133-148
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• 2016

This study examined dahoe(多繪-braided cord) and mangsu(網綬-ornament of husu for ceremonial dress) used in myeon gwan(冕冠), daedae(大帶), and husu(後綬) among royal formal dresses in the Joseon Dynasty(1392-1910) based on historical materials including literature, relics, and paintings. The results of this study are as follows. In myeon-gwan, dahoe was used for cap strings, goeing(紘) and yeong(纓). Cap strings were applied to the king, the Crown Prince, and the eldest son of the Crown Prince regardless of their status, and they showed differences among the periods. Both goeing and yeong were used during the early period of Joseon, and then only yeong was used in the late period. As goeing was removed and only yeong was used in the late period, patterns combining goeing and yeong, in color and wearing method, appeared. Dahoe used in cap strings is dongdahoe(童多繪-a kind of braided cord). In daedae, 'nyuyak(紐約)' was tied up to its fastening part. The material of nyuyak was changed from dongdahoe in the early Joseon Dynasty to guangdahoe(廣多繪-a kind of braided cord) in the late period, and the method of using it was also changed. Husu was imported from Beijing in China during the early period of the Joseon Dynasty, but in 1747, it was regulated to be woven in Joseon, and at that time, King Yeongjo attempted to restore the institution of weaving husu with "320 su(首)," namely, 6,400 strands as specified for the status of a prince of the Ming Dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.1 s.100
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• pp.44-55
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of man's boots in the Joseon Dynasty and compared them with those of the Ming and Qing Dynasty to find the influential relationships between them. Boots in the Joseon Dynasty are divided into several kinds such as Heukgwejapihwa, Hheuksapihwa(黑斜皮靴), Heukpihwa(黑皮靴), Mokhwa(木靴), Hyeopgeumhwa(挾金靴), Suhwaja (水靴子), Jeonpihwa, Gijahwa(起子靴), and Baekhwa(白靴). In addition, Jeong(精: footwear) was put inside boots. They tend to be named according to their materials or ornaments on them. First, Jeong put inside the boots is regarded as footwear for the comfort of the feet or protection against cold. Mokhwa appears in literature around the 19th century. As shown by remains and paintings of those days, it is considered to have become the common name of boots as it underwent many changes. On the other hand, a book in the era of King Gojong includes pictures of Suhwaja. Compared to Hukpihwa in the same book. The topside seems to have been raised in order to make the wearer who put on a military uniform feel comfortable when walking, since the bottom piece is hard. Baekhwa is worn not only with funeral garments but also with Sibok(時服), one of official uniforms. Boots in the Joseon Dynasty had been made following the design of the Ming Dynasty since official uniforms were conferred upon King Gongmin in the late Koryo Dynasty. But turning the late Joseon Dynasty its detailed design changed little by little. The topside of the boots became more round, the entrance part became wider, height of the shoes became taller, and the bottom piece became parallel to the ground.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.87-101
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to identity the representative flower patterns in the Joseon Dynasty and investigate their chronological transitions. In the early Joseon Dynasty (i.e. 16th century), lotus patterns were very popular. Often lotus patterns were twisted around by ivy-leaves or decorated with treasures pattern in the margin. In the mid Joseon Dynasty (i.e. from 17th to mid 18th century), however, lotus patterns evolved from the typical lotus and ivy pattern and diversified into four types. In the 19th century, lotus pattern almost disappeared from the textiles of everyday dresses and were only found in the textiles of formal dresses or in special cases as in the cover pages of Buddhist scriptures. Poeny patterns was rarely used in textiles of 16th century, presumably because of the huge popularity of the lotus pattern. However, suddenly in the 17th century, Poeny patterns appeared quite frequently. There were 3 types of Poeny patterns. Poeny patterns became more popular over the years and it finally became a primary motive in textiles patterns for 100 years starting in the late 19th century. There were two types of Poeny patterns : one was realistic and true to life even in sizes, the other was more symbolic. Textile patterns combining four kinds of flowers started to appear from the late Koryo Dynasty but Flower patterns representing four seasons with distinct shapes appeared only in the 17th century. They could be categorized into three types. In the late 18th century, Flower patterns representing four seasons no longer appears in textile patterns, presumably due to a new preference for lucky omen over natural motives.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.7-18
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• 2019

The "Imwon Gyeongjeji(林園經濟志)", the largest encyclopedia of the Late Joseon Dynasty covers the details of the materials and construction methods related to everyday life's facilities. It is very useful to examine the "Imwon Gyeongjeji" for studying the materials and construction methods of the fences in traditional dwellings. Therefore, we tried to find the characteristics of the traditional fences exhibited in the "Imwon Gyeongjeji" by examining the construction methods shown in the book by structure of the fence. The results are as follow. First, the nine types of fence were listed in the "Imwon Gyeongjeji". Second, we could figure out the construction methods according to the structure of fences. The fence is divided into three parts: foundation, body, and roof. The body of the fence is a characteristic part distinguishing the types of fence. The foundation and the roof are related to the durability of the fence, regardless of the type of fence. The "Imwon Gyeongjeji" showed a robust manner in building fences than known today. Third, we found that the introductions and transformations of certain fence types. Fences such as Chuibyong(翠屛), Jeon Doldam(甎墻) and Bunjang were originated from China, yet has developed unique Korean styles in Joseon. It could also be seen that Kajo Zhang(哥窯墻) and Yonglong Zhang(玲瓏墻) were special fence types imported from China. It is not certain that the fences depicted in the "Imwon Gyeongjeji", represent the whole features of Joseon fences, but it is certainly an important literature to understand the structure and design of traditional fences of the Late Joseon Dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.118-133
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• 2008

The basic costumes of the joseon dynasty such as pants and jackets were not particularly distinctive over the period in comparison to po. The coat that was worn over pants and jacket, however, had different forms in the course of the joseon dynasty. In this paper, I will analyze the changing style of pyeonbokpo, the daily costumes of Joseon man, which were excavated in recent years. Changes in the collar style were the most distinctive of joseon pyeonbokpo such as cheolik, dapho, aekjueum, jikryeong, daechangyeui, jungchimak, and juyeui. Although pyeonbokpo had double collars in the early joseon dynasty, they disappeared in the seventeenth century: a straight line also replaced by a curve for the collar perimeter. Front-adjusting of pyeonbokpo was very deep in the early joseon dynasty; front-adjusting became simple in the late joseon dynasty, resulting in the central positioning of a ribbon. The rectangular form of a gusset(mu) was stitched to the bodice through various pleats. Gusset patterns changed greatly into various forms in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, along with the ladder gusset form. The long vest(dapho) was half-sleeved and had a deep front adjustment in the early joseon dynasty; however, it did not have collars and sleeves since the eighteenth century. The waist line of cheolik had the ratio of 1.2 to 1 for the bodice to skirt. But the length of skirts grew gradually into the ratios of 1 to 1, 1 to 2, and 1 to 3.8 while the waist line moved upwards to the chest line. Sleeves of all po had a straight form but they gradually developed the tendency to widen towards the wrists. Later, sleeves changed again, having a wide rectangular form starting from the armpits. Cheolik was widely worn in the early joseon dynasty; however, it was worn less in later years. Instead, clothes that had slits such as dopo, daechangeui, and jungchimak were greatly available. These characteristics of the change in men's costumes enable us to measure the time period of excavated findings despite the lack of records for Joseon graves.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.50 no.1
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• pp.78-117
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• 2017

Buddhism, which was subject to repression all over the early Joseon Dynasty, received a certain recognition from the state, because Buddhist monks had participated in the war of the Japanese invasion in 1592. On the other hand, however, one of the results was the destruction of many temples. In the late Joseon Dynasty, the Buddhist monks themselves acted as players of Pungmul(people's percussive band music) for the rebuilding of Buddhist temples. These so-called "the Buddhist monks' Pungmul" is the imitation of former clowns' Pungmul and farmers' one that sometimes request money or rice at houses of villages. In the late Joseon Dynasty, the activities of the Buddhist monks' Pungmul were held all over the country. Today, there are "Bitnae Nongak(farmers'percussive band music)" in Kyeongsangbuk-do, "Beokku-noli(the drum play) in the areas of Yeosu and Gangjin in Jeollanam-do, the song of the Buddhist monks' Pungmul for the people's house spirits in the Gyeonggi-do, Gangwon-do and Chungcheong-do, and Namsadang-pae(the nomadic entertaining groups composed of only men), as clear pictures of it. In these things related to Nongak or Nongak relevant affairs, the shapes of the Buddhist monks' Pungmul in the late Joseon Dynasty remain clear. On the other hand, today the Namsadang-pae, which was formed as a result of Buddhist monks' Pungmul in the late Joseon Dynasty, was left only in the Chungcheong-do and Gyeonggi-do, because the temple construction in the Gyeonggi-do was made especially many in the late Joseon Dynasty. During the late Joseon Dynasty, the Buddhist monks' Pungmul, which had long-lived and had taken place throughout the nation, had a great impact on Pungmul. There are the Buddhist elements, such as Gokkal(the Buddhist monk's peaked hat), paper flowers, the color band, the small drum, and Bara(small cymbals) are often found in the Pungmul of Korea. In the late period of the Joseon Dynasty, it is obviously important place in the Pungmul history of Korea. Research and studies on this subject should be made more in the future.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.61-72
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• 2016

This study is about the structure and transition of orthogonal design of palace architectures in Joseon Dynasty. The results are as follows. First, Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung Palaces' corridors, and their architectures seen in the Court Documentary Paintings have early Joseon style in the corner-connections. Their roof shape in the corner is gable roof. Generally, gable roof has direction. Besides, it is easy to extend gable sides. Second, Corridor of Gyeongbokgung Palace has hipped and gable roofs with corner eaves. It was popular during the late Joseon Dynasty. On the other hand, it is impossible to extend any sides of those roofs since they have roof faces in their four sides. Instead, they have completeness. That's why their aesthetic appeal exhibits more pleasing than gable roofs. Third, corner-connections of palace architecture shows evidences and traces of the transition from gable roofs meeting at right angle in the early Joseon to hipped and gable roofs meeting at right angle with corner eaves in the late Joseon. Also, the corner-connections with corner eaves were usually used even in the attached architectures.

• The Journal of Korean Medical History
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.75-83
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• 2014

This study investigated the various editions of Huangjenaegyeongsomun (黃帝內經素問) published in the Joseon Dynasty. Only study for on Eulhae metal type (乙亥字) Huangjenaegyeongsomun and bibliography research of some holding institutions are the existing research on this topic. The conclusion of this paper is as follows. 1. The 14 and 15-volume book are existing most common versions of Huangjenaegyeongsomun (黃帝內經素問) published in Joseon Dynasty. The two books were corrected by Naeuiwon (內醫院). According to this study, the latter is more early than the former. But in the study of the past were not made clear distinction between the two books. 2. The 15-volume book of Huangjenaegyeongsomun (黃帝內經素問) was published in the mid-18th century between the first half of the 19th century. 3. A Wooden print editions Huangjenaegyeongsomun (黃帝內經素問) about Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592 ago have been investigated holding institution. 4. The Gyeongju-published Huangjenaegyeongsomun (黃帝內經素問) is estimated that in the mid Joseon Dynasty, This edition has been estimated that the late Joseon Dynasty far.