The purpose of this thesis is to review the costume and symbolism of the English novelist Jane Austen's novel "Emma" which was produced as a movie in 1996. The novel "Emma" 's periodical background is from 1814 to 1815 in neo-classical age of costume. The English woman's costumes in 1810 were high-waisted empire style dress and redingote, pelisse, spencer jacket for going out. Man's costumes were frock coat, tail coat, shirts, vest and bottoms were breeches, pantaloons and trousers. In this literature, Harriet's naive and immature image was shown in the name of 'pretty'. Elegant and graceful way of talking and attitude was expressed in the 'beauty' of Emma. The costume is symbolically expressing the character's personality ; white is for Emma's intelligent and elegant image, pastor Elton's black suit symbolized his profession and ambitions for success. The analysis of the costumes from the movie "Emma" is following ; women wore empire dress and outer garment, redingote and spencer jacket. The fabrics were muslin, gauze, satin, lace and velvet. Men's costume were frock coat, tail coat with the shirts, vest, and pantaloons. The fabric was brown, black and dark color of wool. With an analysis of the movie "Emma", I would like to present '99 S/S collection, targeted for 21-25 aged woman by use of Emma's elegant and Harriet's pretty image as a main subject. As a second subject, I have chosen neo romantic memory, sophisticate feminine and pretty Harriet.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.37
no.8
/
pp.1029-1043
/
2013
The pearl is a highly valuable gem that has historically represented wealth and power. Pearl necklaces have developed intro various types and represent an essential status item for modern women. This study first examines the symbolic and various meanings of pearls. Second, this study examines wearing types and pearl necklace patterns based on historical figures and modern fashion icons famous for personal displays of pearls. This study examines and analyzes various specialty publications about jewels, history of costumes, fashion magazines, academic research data, and internet search results. The conclusion of this study is as follows. Pearls have various symbolic meanings that are unlike other gems. Pearls represent purity, innocence, marital fidelity, an intimate relationship with the moon, frozen tears of God, solitude, triumph over adversity, wisdom, and sensual attraction. The societies and people traditionally famous for pearls were the Roman Empire, Queen Cleopatra of Egypt, Queen Theodora of the Byzantine Empire, Queen Elizabeth I, Queen Marie Antoinette, Empress of Eugenie Napoleon III, and Queen Alexandra. They showed a special affection for pearl necklaces and various wearing patterns unique to the time. Their pearl necklaces became a historic and symbolic legacy. Reestablished through the costume jewelry of cultivated pearls designed by Coco Chanel in the $20^{th}$ century, the pearl necklace has showed a variety of fashion trends in addition to a traditional symbolism of wealth and power. Josephine Baker, Louise Brooks, Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor, Jacqueline Kennedy, Queen Elizabeth II, Princess Diana, Michelle Obama and Sarah Jessica Parker have worn notable pearl necklaces and established an individual style that utilizes the adornment of fashionable and stylish pearl necklaces. They have worn pearl necklaces while applying various fashion trend motifs to symbolic pearl features of that have changed the perception of the pearl and themselves.
This paper aims to point out that the contemporary textbook is a common cognitive construct, and that the realistic drawings in the textbooks have played an important role in shaping the world recognition. The main subjects of this study are the racial-ethnic illustrations of elementary school geography textbooks, published by the Japanese Ministry of Education, the Japanese Government-General of Taiwan and Korea, the educational association of Manchu. By comparing the same factors in various textbooks, it examines how the temporal and spatial recognition of the world is adjusted by visual representation. The main findings of this study are three fold. First, the world was introduced to the extent of the sum that the census and the classifications of racial and ethnic groups were adopted. And the world appeared later in the year supported by the racial and ethnic minorities. Second, the expressive style of racial and ethnic groups changed from an emphasis on a heterogeneous part as an object of scientific observation in the early stage to a later one with a life culture similar to the reader. Third, racial ethnic illustrations have been used differently depending on the publishing region in the Empire, giving readers in different regions with different images of the same category. In many cases, it was possible to know the politics of representation and the use of certain racial ethnic illustrations. The textbooks of the first half of the 20th century gave great recognition to the people who could not meet with the readers by using the illustrations. A child in the mainland is aware of his position in a "viewing position" while viewing various empire people through the textbook. On the other hand, in the textbooks of the colonial children, they stood in the position of 'being seen', and showed a change in internalizing the position of the mainland along with the expansion of the empire.
Seokjojeon Hall is the Neoclassic style building situated in Deoksugung Palace, which was proposed by John McLeavy Brown who was a chief commissioner of the Daehan Empire and designed by John Reginald Hardings in 1897. Construction of the Seokjojeon Hall began in 1900 and completed in 1910 at the total cost of one million won. Decorating and furnishing of the interior was designed by Lovell and all the furniture of Seokjojeon Hall had been purchased from Maple&Co. The Maple&Co was the supplier of luxury furnitures and decorating items for luxurious residentials, hotels, embassies and the palaces and its headquarter was located in London. Ready-made furnitures were purchased as shown in the Maple's catalog. The designs and styles of the west were applied to Seokjojeon Hall. That is one of the aspects showing Daehan Imperial underwent a period of Westernization.
The purpose of this study is to analyze four separate elements-sublime beauty, elegant beauty, mysticism, ornament-which appeared in materials, patterns, colors, silhouettes, details, and accessories, laying stress on luxurious, brilliant, mysterious feelings on Gorgeous Images appeared as trend theme of modern fashion by mixing religious mysticism of the Byzantine Empire. Mysticism element is using the effect of splendid and gorgeous colors from the Orient rather than forms. And a philosophy of abundant colors in mosaics, which are seen in art forms such as architecture, paintings, etc., shows that it creates some visual rooms for religious spirits. Influenced by the fashion of the Greco-Roman style, the elegant beauty element is expressing abundant comfort and elegant feminine lines that are from creases, and it is also emphasizing natural beauty which seems to slip down by displaying the splendid images of Gorgeous as drapes that fit a body. Ornament element was reflecting an inspiration from the splendid and brilliant culture of religion in the Byzantine Age. Therefore, it was appeared as a style filling the whole with bulky silks, splendid ornamental materials embroidered in gold or silver thread, the complicated geometric patterns that are two-dimensional and dignified, and so on. It was decorated with crosses which represent Christianity as a motif, and also it emphasized the splendor of the Byzantine and dazzling splendid images of Gorgeous by using accessaries decorated with various jewels. The elements of sublime beauty are showing the beauty adding humble and majestic images to it as designs sought by spiritual values or intrinsic values. Those designs, so to speak, have pretense which does not allow to expose a body and plain pure feeling, so that they are showing some abstinent styles in a solemn atmosphere, with most details removed. We can say the Fashion Theme appearing in Modern Times is the result from representing by combining various factors of the times with formative beauty through creative works for aesthetic expression. The moderners are requiring new designs which is possible to meet their individualities, in addition to their outstanding fashion senses. From this point of view, a variety of textiles, patterns, and colors in the Byzantine have a great meaning to fulfill people's various desires as interesting elements.
Architectural embodiment of a national identity has long been a significant topic in Korean architectural circles. For this reason, it must be helpful to examine the so-called, 'National Romanticism' of Finnish architecture around 1900 in that Finnish architects of the time struggled to embody their national identity through their projects. Considering the historical and linguistic affinities between Finland and Korea, the Finnish architectural situation draws . our additional attention. This paper aims at showing its historical background, the meaning of each type of buildings in the stream, and limitations it implies. The atmosphere of Finnish nationalist movement, which was provoked by [Kalevala] publications (1835; 1845) and shown in Karelianism, was heightened by Tsarist Empire's Russification programme of Finland in the late 19th century Architecture was one of the most important genres expressing her national identity. Finnish national romantic architecture could be divided into three. The first is a log house style for artists' studio house, motivated by the Finnish vernacular farmstead - especially by Karelian farmhouse. This type of building signifies the Finns' will to return to their motherly soil. The second is a stone architecture style for public buildings, inspired by Finnish church or castle of an early medieval time. By using roughly-cut granite as the main exterior material, buildings of this type symbolise the toughness of legendary heroes and Finns' desire for national Independence. The third type of building was based on both of the former or more dependent on architects' Imagination and creativity. However, Finnish national romantic architecture has been criticised by some critics owing to its decorative, eclectic and self-indulgent characteristics. Probably, it was not really national but rather inter-national because of the Influences of English Arts and Crafts Movement, the American Richardsonian architecture and the continental Art Nouveau. And the negative images of 'national' and 'romantic' made some historians coin other terms like 'national realism' or 'material realism'. As another limitation, one raises the low degree of its contribution to the entire architectural history. Despite these criticisms, however, this paper argues that Finnish national romantic architecture is meaningful in itself, particularly because it illustrates vividly Finns' struggle to search for their national identity and, after all, their craving for national independence.
The Gollyongpo was worn by the King and the Crown Prince in Joseon dynasty as an ordinary wear. The research on the Gollyongpo is focused on the historic record of Joseon dynasty, Joseonwangjosillok. This study will analyze literature, paintings and relics. First, I have researched Ming's(China) representative document daminghuidian, and excavated relics from the tomb dingling. I examined the usage and characteristic, through various remaining literature data, artifacts and paintings. The Gollyongpo was worn for the various ceremonies as well as an ordinary wear. According to the periode, the style and color had changed. The King wore the red Gollyongpo with 5 clawed dragon pattern, the Crown Prince wore black one with 4 clawed pattern, and the eldest son of the Crown Prince wore black one with 3 clawed dragon emblem. After the Daehan Empire, the Emperor wore gold outfit and the Crown Prince wore red outfit. Sonyongpo recorded in the Gungjungbalgi is concerned as Gollyongpo with narrow straight sleeve, one of the Sejong University Museum's Collection. There is some Possibility that the Gollyongpo painted in Bongsado is woven with dragon design, I would leave this matter for next research task.
In this article, we recognize the cross-cultural communication between Greece and Spain through El Greco's pictures. The Greeks of Crete kept to their culture and continued to look to the declining Byzantine Empire for spiritual and political guidance. For two centuries after the conquest, the strength of the Byzantine tradition had become the moral and spiritual sustenance of the conquered in Crete. The basic contribution of Cretan intellectuals or artists such as El Greco of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries was the forging of connecting links between the Hellenism of the old Byzantine East and the rising, youthful Hellenism of the Renaissance West. In this way, Crete served as an important halfway point between East and West. The saint Mary Magdalene was symbol of Christian penitence, which represents the penitential life personified and became widespread during the Counter Reformation, when new emphasis was put on the value of prayer and repentance in the forgiveness of sin. In Spain, the Penitent Magdalene was popular and El Greco painted many versions, which at the first time, were reflected by Tiziano, on the contrary, at the time of Toledo, were recreated by his own style. Although El Greco was converted to Catholic in Spain, his faith in Greek Orthodox Church influenced on his original painting world. El Greco had never painted a picture whose subject treat with the emphasis of identification between Mary Magdalene and Mary, younger sister of Martha.
Ordinary people generally bury or burn placenta when the baby was born. But, Joseon royal family put placenta in pot and then buried it in propitious site praying for good health and long life. After that baby had become the king of Joseon, people built stone figures formed fixed type at that place. It is called gabong-taesil(加封胎室). The purpose of this study is to figure out the type and characteristics of the King Taejo's taesil in Joseon Dynasty. The King Taejo's taesil had built first as soon as Joseon was established circa 1393, and repaired largely in 1689. Since then, this was damaged by the Japanese Empire and assembled in recent days at near place from the original place. Center piece of taesil remains the original form, and the rest of stone figures is assumed to be rebuilt in 1689. But, some materials like sangseok(裳石) and jeonseok(磚石) are assumed that are original stone figures or were made, assembled by the style of then. Considering most of remained taesil is a relic of the latter part of Joseon Dynasty, the King Taejo' taesil has high cultural value as the first gabong-taesil of Joseon Dynasty inheriting Goryeo Dynasty type.
These days, citizens have made change of food life to take Western style food and to suffer from diabetes because of excessive nutrition taking, less exercise, stress and other environmental factors. They may suffer from diabetes because of genetic defect, surgery of pancreas, disinfection and medicine and others. One of ten Koreans may have symptom of diabetes to be popular. The diabetes that is a kind of metabolic disease has high blood sugar at disorder of hyper insulinism and/or defect of insulin action. Long time high blood sugar may produce chronic disease of kidney, eyes, nerve, heart and blood vessel and others. The purpose of health care of diabetes patient was to reach target blood sugar by diet, physical exercise and medicine and to prevent and delay complication. Diabetes patient shall control blood sugar to keep healthy. The blood sugar control requires time and effort, and all of the patients are difficult to make effort and to spend time. You can control blood sugar by the application. The application allows patients to control blood sugar and to save time and efforts and to make small sized input and automation of remaining area. The service was limited to blood sugar graph, and user carries smart phone to conduct test and to have difficulty. Further study needs to solve the problems and to investigate blood sugar testing not carrying smart phone and to make application of easy control of blood sugar.
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