• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.2
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• pp.48-61
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• 2015

Chi-pao is a kind of traditional clothes; it is regarded as a national costume, playing an irreplaceable role in the Chinese history. As China developed, the strict requirements on dresses did as well. History is a double-sided mirror,; we can know the past and we can find the direction ifor future development. when it comes to reform and openness, China imports foreign culture and exports domestic culture as well. This essay uses the history of Chi-pao as the background, consults the reference to analyse the brand of Chinese domestic Chi-pao characteristics, summarize the fashionable trend. Recently, Chi-pao is worn in many kinds of important occasions such as foreign affairs, public performances and so on. The purpose of this essay is to analyze the current situation of Chi-pao, make Chi-pao more international, and show the Chinese history to the world.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.109-118
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• 2013

Fashion icons of 21st century are not only the fashion leaders that show fashion trend but also the typical fashion signs or symbols that show visually changes in sensibility trends. The purpose of this study was to analyze the framework of 21st century fashion by the public to recognize through these changes. In this study, the background of the occurrence of various 21st century fashion icons and their characteristics were investigated and the changes of revealed features and symbolic meanings were examined compared with them of 20th century. The 24 celebrities which have been called as the bests of fashion icons since year 2000 were selected by searching the most popular search engines such as daum, yahoo and google, and 13 of them were picked as the highest in preference and awareness by surveying 50 students majoring in fashion. And then their fashion styles, backgrounds, and influence on the public fashion were studied. As a result, the 21st century fashion icons reflecting the cultural characteristics such as convergence and exaggeration and the sensitivities of fusion, collaboration, hybrid sensibility in art were powerful enough to create innovative styles destroying the era and the standard. Their styles have constantly created new looks. The exposed new individual sensitivities on media-fusion of two or more sensibility and coordination techniques without being tied to the existing anchorage system-were as influential as high fashion and leaded the imitation and reproduction by dazzling the public. As the media become more powerful, the influence of fashion icons interacted more closely with the public and has been evolved through the sensitivity of the reversal, cultural, economic, visual, or temporal fusions. To sum up, it is shown that the outstanding fashion styles suggested by the leading fashion designers have approach to the public more closely by the fashion icons.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.7 s.98
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• pp.62-75
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• 2005

This study is focused on main performers' stage costumes in the 'Swan Lake', a masterpiece of classical ballet, which Is newly represented by Matthew Bourne, a choreographer. The objectives of the study is to help understand a trend of costume in modern public performance and art. First, this paper is attempted to describe the concept and the elements of ballet costume, secondly, to consider the performance generally, and finally to analyze main performers stage costumes. This study was performed by two processes; The first was to visit theaters to view the performances in person: the classical ballet by the Bolshoi Theater Ballet, the performance by Korea national ballet academy and the Matthew Bonne's modernly redefined ballet. The second was to review the regarding literatures and DVD. There are two apparent characteristics of main performers' stage costumes in modern-style ballet compared with classic-style ballet. First, there is an approach to gender identity; the character of swan with the classic tutu that has been the culmination of femininity in the classic-style ballet, used to be represented in an established idea on ballet costume, is now substituted by a creative idea, male ballerina and trouser-style ballet costume. Second, there is an approach to breaking the convention on the purpose of emphasizing popularity arousing real sympathy and art value. Also, modern-style ballet introduces bare body and ffot rather than tutu and toe-shoes, and adapts items from casual outfit fitted in earh performer's character with a present-day life.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.259-276
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• 2001

Hitchcock, "a master of the thriller" "leading figure of thriller", was famous for his work style. He never starts filming until completing a perfect conception in his mind before shooting. He started filming after getting a perfect filming plan adding a picture even one detailed shot picture. Also the movie costumes was not an exception in his movie. He put more main object to express a symbolic meanings by recreating movie costumes which were fit to drama′s subject than function which spoke for contemporary popularity also he guides actors to put on the movie costumes examined previously to shape a definite visual character in that works. This research intends not only to look into symbolic and expressive means of dresses through the movie costumes on thriller appeared in Hitchcock′s movie, but also the comprehension width by grasping importance of the movie-costume and dress image in the movie. Hitchock made about 55 movies, mostly thriller movies, from Number 13(1922) n unfinished work to family plot(1976) ones posthumous work. This research examined his the second half of term works(after 1950) such s Rear Window(1954), Vertigo(1958), Psycho(1960), Torn Curtain(19660, Topaz(1969) and Frenzy(1972) which are generally familiar to the public. In conclusion, we can find that the thriller movie costumes as well s the other movie and appeared a character of the film′s characters, social rank, economic level, personality. But expecially, a costume of Hitchcock′s thriller movie can be contained a characteristic factor of a kind of five.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.143-151
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• 2009

This paper starts with the assumption that in order for the popularization of hanbok leading to greater interest among the public for Hanbok and its uses in everyday life, the period for Hanbok events each year must be solidified, making it a standardized provide opportunities for participation regardless of demographic. Globalization of Hanbok most occur through a combination of related academic fields, division of roles in fields of expertise, and a scientific understanding of Hanbok. Thus various Hanbok-related programs such as contests, fashion shows, experience centers and exhibitions should be provided in one unified setting. Government sponsored Hanbok cultural events have generally been aimed at foreigners or foreign human residency, while events in Korea hae generally been carried out by a more diverse rage of groups, making it difficult for the general population to obtain information or participate actively. In order for hanbok to maintain its tradition as the national costume of Korea, Long-term develop plans must be set. Along with popularization in order to bring hanbok into everyday life, methods for the globalization of hanbok must be explored, providing opportunities to spotlight the diversity and characteristics of Korean costumes, in various events which promote participation, festival-forming and globalization of hanbok culture considering elements such as time (yearly, monthly etc.) and audience (age group, social level etc.).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.319-329
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• 1989

The present paper mainly cocerns, in social aspect of the cultural change, with how cholik was introduced and accepted in $Kory\v{o}$ dynasty. It was through cultural transmission in political relations with Won dynasty that $ch\v{o}$ lik was first listed on our own costume system in later $Kory\v{o}$ dynasty. The acceptance by $Kory\v{o}$ society can be interpreted as the twofold effects; positively, it enriched our costume system and, negatively, it brought about various conflicts, which in turn caused some unwelcome reactions. Once it had permeated into $Kory\v{o}$ culture. it could not avoid being changed by social conditions. The changing process can be defined as the dual cycles of fashion. The first one startd at mid peroid of $Kory\v{o}$ when King $Chung-ry\v{o}$l provided a law to wear the $W\v{o}n$ costume and. ended at larter $Kory\v{o}$ of King Kong-min's reign. The second cycle rose in the period between King Sejong's reign and late $Chos\v{o}n$. Each of the two cycles appeared to have its own characteristics; 1. The first cycle. 1) In spite of the long period of a century, the cycle was very abrupt both in development and decline. 2) The abrupt pattern of the cycle can be attributed to the nation-wide law provided by the ruler. 2. The second cycle. 1) Compared with the first cycle, the curve was rather slow. 2) The fashion originated from the hyperimitation of the government officials, since the costume was the royal gift by Chinese Emperor. 3) The main cause of the development of the fastion was the wars, rather than the public preference. 4) The main cause of the decline of the fashion was that it could no more differentiate the social status, that the wearer was laughed at by the Chinese, and that the long period of wearing the same dress stimulated the fashion psychology. 5) The increasing size of the costume rather decreased the very function of the costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 2003

This study as one of a series of systematic studies about dancing costumes will compare the costumes of the middle age with their normal style of dress. In brief, this study wants people to know about middle a9e dancing costumes and understand the culture in the middle ages. It was found that people's everyday clothes in the middle age such as Surcot. Surcot-ouvert, Pourpoint, Houppelande were used as dancing costumes. They were, however. changed from the public's clothes which were tight and long. Rather than wearing costume over others. dancers wore costumes which had slits on skirt or sleeves to increase motion. With the Wild Man of the Wood's which only nobles used for their dancing costumes. costumers highlighted the beauty of human body There were various costume materials used in the middle ages like silk. cotton fabrics, linen or brocade. These materials were used for Surcot and Pourpoint as dancing costumes. The naturalness of nature or geometric patterns also was expressed on the costumes. Further about those patterns, because the development of stained glass, vivid colors were used especially red, light green, blue etc. As for the hair styles used, dancers let their hair down and put a jeweled crown over their hair. In summation. dancers wore the same clothes that normal People did, but the costumes were different depending on social status and gender. The costumes of ordinary people's were based upon ordinary clothes that moved and emphasized the dynamic motion. On the other side, the court dancers' costumes were very fancy. symbolizing a measurement of nobles' from wealth and authority. as well as an expression of a sense of beauty, The main features of middle ages follows. : To emphasize vitality, there were long slits on the side of skirt. Hair decorations and jewels are more used than in the ancient age's. To hide a dancer's social status. they could use a mask. Wild Man of the Wood's was used for the body makeup. All these features of the dancing costumes must contribute to the progress of the dance in the middle age's.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.7
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• pp.117-132
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• 2012

This study explored public awareness and donning practices of traditional and religious dresses among Indonesian Muslim. The relevant literature was reviewed first, and in-depth interviews and survey were followed to achieve the purpose of the study. Sarung and Kain Panjang are the most representative unisex traditional clothing of Indonesia. Traditional male dresses include Kemeja Batik, Beskap, Peci(Kopiah) and Blangkon. Traditional female dresses include Kebaya, Baju Kurung, Baju Bodo, Kemben, Rok Batik and Slendang. Baju Koko, Sarung and Peci(Kopiah) are the most well-known Muslim male dress items. Muslim female dresses are more diverse than men's. For traditional and religious dresses, which were identified from literature study, public awareness and donning practices were examined with survey data. Indonesian people consider Kebaya, Sarung, and Batik as the most important traditional dresses which convey national identity. Peci(Kopiah), Baju koko, and Jilbab(Kerudung) are highly mentioned as the representatives of Muslim dresses. Indonesian Muslims report that they own these representative dresses commonly. Peci and Sarung are included both in religious and traditional dresses, demonstrating that the two items are the representative crossovers of their religion and the tradition of the country. For both traditional and Muslim dresses, Indonesian people think that aesthetics and traditional values are more relevant than practical value. Lastly, it is found that traditional dresses are parts of the daily wear of Indonesian people from the fact that they wear traditional dresses more than once a week.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.2
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• pp.81-98
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• 2010

This study aims to examine the subjects of cultural power of the modernism and post modernism eras, and analyze how the change of power and subjects influenced fashion throughout the history from the microscopic perspective, and thus to explain the social relationship of the fashion phenomenon. The study findings can be summarized as follows. First, as the post modernism era which was being formed centering around Europe that was pursuing Haute Couture and formal masculine suits ended and the post modernism era started, America became the center of the world power, and the American equalitarianism and growing wealth among the general public spread over the world, and as a result, the ready-made clothes were propagated over the world, and various subcultures came to have multi-national tendency in the New Media society. Second, in the modernism era, the high class, whites, males, and the pre-existing powerful class were the subjects of cultural power. Although this changed in the post modernism era, as some of power moved from the high class to the middle class, the economically affluent general public, still the western world, males, and whites held the center of power. However, later, females, youths, the third world nations, and so on emerged as minor power, and when the New Media society started, the structure developed so that everyone can share cultural power.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.5
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• pp.19-40
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to grasp the world of Galliano works who lead Dior Couture and to make use of this knowledge to comprehension of general trend in Haute Couture and $pr{\hat{e}}t-{\acute{a}}$-porter in the future. The method of research is to search for the characteristic of Haute Couture and the general tendency of Galliano works, and to view the inclination of Dior Couture by Galliano. For sphere of research, 2000s is discussed with focus on Haute Couture, exclusive of ready-to-wear. As a result, Galliano's Couture works were distinguished into four specificities. First, the historicity including historical event, personage and epoch. Second, the orientalism. Third, the pictorial characteristic including synthetic art and public art. Forth, the quality of humor. These subjects bring about a result that break down each boundary, in the method of interpreting, as try out mixing between every elements. Galliano pursue a new domain through the fusion of East and West, past and present, classic and pop, artistry and commercialism, this induce more familiar Haute Couture to the public, breaking the strict form of Couture. It seems that this tendency will be advanced toward extrovert Couture producing the low-age phenomenon in Couture, the mixture of multi-culture and the vitality. This fusion suggest the popularity and the commerciality of Couture, which is predicted decrease the difference between Couture and $pr{\hat{e}}t-{\acute{a}}$-porter.