• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.377-384
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• 2008

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of gallnut was studied. In this study, the colorants of gallnut were extracted with boiling water. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were been dyed with aqueous extract of gallnut and their dyeabilities on the fabrics were studied. Additionally, the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan to provide the cotton fabrics the dyeing properties of natural dye(gallnut) by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. The chitosan finishing and durable press finishing of the cotton fabrics carried out simultaneously in the mercerization bath. The dyeability(K/S), which was obtained by CCM observation, remarkably increased as the concentration of chitosan was high. Dye ability of gallnut showed higher toward chitosan treated cotton than controlled cotton fabric under condition at $60^{\circ}C$, for 20 min. The hue value indicated reddish yellow with increasing the crosslinked chitosan concentration. And the color fastness to washing and light was the almost the same.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.231-236
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• 2019

This study investigated the proper dyeing conditions, color fastness and functionality of wool fabrics dyed with Zizania latifolia Turcz. We also tried to improve light fastness through treatment with benzophenone ultraviolet absorber. The dyeing of wool fabrics using Zizania latifolia Turcz was good even without pretreatment or mordanting treatment. Optimal wool fabric dyeing conditions were colorant concentration of 200% (o.w.f.), dyeing temperature of $100^{\circ}C$, dyeing time of 80 minutes and a dye bath pH of 3. Color fastness of dyed wool fabrics to washing, rubbing, perspiration and light was 4-5, 5, 4-4-5 (acidic), 4-5 (alkaline) and 2 respectively. The results after treatment with ultraviolet absorber for improving the fastness of daylight were improved to 3-4 grade. The UV protection rate were increased after dyeing and the deodorization of ammonia gas improved to 98%. Bacterial reduction rate (Staphylococcus aureus) of wool fabrics was excellent at 99.9%. All dye fastness (except for light fastness) was excellent; in addition, the functionality of wool fabrics dyed with Zizania latifolia Turcz also improved. The results are expected to be applied to various fields because they indicate excellent results after treatment with ultraviolet absorber for improving the fastness of daylight.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.525-531
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• 2018

This paper proposes a bi-component dye, including the unripe fruit of Diospyros kaki THUNB and Ecklonia cava, to substitute for traditional persimmon dyeing because fabrics dyed with persimmon juice become stiffer and natural persimmon is insufficient for dyeing. This study examined the color difference and fabric stiffness depending on the ratio of Ecklonia cava for in a one-bath dye solution with Diospyros kaki THUNB and showed that 6% of Ecklonia cava in the bi-component dye was the optimum for decreasing the fabric stiffness. Based on these results, a bi-component dye constituting of 94% Diospyros kaki THUNB and 6% Ecklonia cava was prepared. The particle size was found to be smaller than both single dyes and it maintained a similar amount of Catechin to Diospyros kaki THUNB dye. Finally, cotton fabric dyed with a bi-component dye was much improved in terms of the fabric hand and the surface color was similar to that of the traditional persimmon-dyed fabric. These results could help to develop the natural persimmon dyeing industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.12
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• pp.2002-2010
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• 2009

The degradation behavior of berberine is examined using GC-MS to select the fingerprint products that can be used to identify berberine dye in badly faded archaeological textiles. A total of $100^{\circ}C$ thermal and $H_2O_2/UV/O_2$ degradation systems were used to degrade berberine chloride 0.1% solution up to 408 hours. The samples were analyzed using the GC-MS. Dihydroberberine, 2-pteridinamine, 6,7-dimethyl-N-[(trimethylsilyl) oxy]-, and 8-methoxy-11-[3-methylbutyl]-11H-indolo[3,2-c]-quinoline, 5-oxide were detected as the major products of thermal degradation and identified as the fingerprint products for berberine dye at the early stage of degradation. Isobenzofuran-1,3-dione,4,5-dimethoxy-, 9H-fluorene,3,6-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-,1,3-dioxolo[4,5-g]isoquinolin-5(6H)-one,7,8-dihydro-, and 3-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyanisole were detected as the major products generated by the $H_2O_2/UV/O_2$ degradation and identified as the fingerprint products for berberine dye under severe degradation conditions.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.476-480
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• 2006

For the purpose of application to new natural dyestuff, the dyeability of Rubus coreanus Miquel extract was analyzed. It was dyed in silk fabric according to various dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and dyeing repetition. And the effects of mordanting conditions were examined as color differences and color fastnesses. The maximum absorbance of Rubus coreanus Miquel extract was at 521 nm. The dyeaffinities were increased gradually as were increased dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and dyeing repetition. The dyeaffinity was increased at pre-mordanted condition, and color difference was increased distinctly at post mordanted condition. The hues of mordanted silk fabrics were RP, P, PB, BG where as non mordanted silk fabric was R. Lightfastness was the best at pre-Sn mordanted and the worst at Post-Al mordanted. Washing and perspiration fastnesses were improved on pre and post-Sn mordanted.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.441-444
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• 2007

For the purpose of application to new natural dyestuff, the dyeability of Purple onion shell extract was analyzed. It was dyed in cotton fabric according to various dye weight, dyeing temperature, dyeing time. And the effects of mordanting conditions were examined as color differences and color fastnesses. The dyeaffinities were increased as were increased dye weight, especially 100% owf. The optimum dyeing condition of Purple onion shell extract was 40minutes at $60^{\circ}C$. The dyeaffinity was increased at pre-mordanted condition, and color difference was increased distinctly at post mordanted condition. The hue of all mordanted cotton fabrics changed into Yellow where as non mordanted cotton fabric was Red. The color fastnesses of mordanted cotton fabrics were generally not so god, but light fastness was improved in post-Cu mordanted fabric.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.158-163
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• 2006

Standard extraction procedure for examining chromophoric substances of turmeric was investigated. Acetone and methanol were used as extracting solvents with different extraction procedures and pH levels. GC-MS analysis identified curcumene 2 (6.7 min), feruloylmethane 3 (8.3 min), coumaran 4 (6.09 min), vanillin 5 (6.2 min), and zingiberene 6 (10.5 min) as the major products. Curcumin 1 which has been known as the major chromophoric substance of turmeric was not detected in any samples. The maximum amount of curcumene 2, which was used as the fingerprint product for turmeric dye, was obtained by utilizing presoaking and decanting step with methanol prior to actual extraction step using a waterbath shaker (WMM). The highest relative abundance of curcumene 2 was detected in pH 6 sample followed by pH 5 indicating that the most appropriate pH level was in the range of pH 6-5.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.542-546
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• 2005

This study was investigated to establish the optimum conditions of dyeing silk fabric with Brassica campestris. This experiment was done under different dyeing conditions of dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, dyeing repeating times, and mordants which were treated pre, syn, and post methods. The effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting were evaluated in terms of dyeaffinity(K/S value) and CIE-Lab color factors. Also, the effect of mordanting on color fastnesses was assessed. The dyeaffinity increased remarkably as dye concentration increased up to 200% owf. The dyeaffinity increased continuously with dyed temperature and reached dyeing equilibrium at $80^{\circ}C$. The maximum dyeaffinity was observed at 30minutes of dyeing time. In the relationship between the K/S value and dyeing repeating times, the K/S value became higher as repeating time was increased. The changes of surface color and colorfatness of dyes were not increased greatly on all mordanting states. The extracts of Brassica campestris produced mainly yellow color in silk fabric. The antimicrobial activity existed slightly as the ratio of 22.7%.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.12 s.148
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• pp.1608-1618
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• 2005

The purpose of this investigation was to investigate the degradation products of the dye component extracted from madder dyed fabrics using the GC-MS analysis and to evaluate the change of color due to degradation treatment. Four different degradation protocols were used in this study,; refrigeration at $7^{\circ}C$ (LT), room temperature (RT), oven treatment at $100^{\circ}C$ (OV), and $H_2O_2/UV(PER)$ method. Degradation times for each thermal system were 6 hour, 24 hour, 48 hour, 1 week, 2 week, 4 week. Alizarin was detected from the control and degraded samples of both alizarin dyed and madder dyed fabrics. Benzoic acid, 2, 4-di-tert-butylphenol, phthalic anhydride were detected as the degradation products for both alizarin dyed and madder dyed fabrics. The result suggest that these products can be used as the fingerprints of GC-MS analysis for the identification of madder dye in archaeological textiles. Both alizarin dyed and madder dyed samples became less red and less yellow after degradation. In the PER degradation system madder dyed sample showed the greatest color difference even after 1 week of degradation treatment. Further research is necessary for investigating the color change in the exhumed textiles, which is caused by the dual action of dye fading and the staining of organic matters in the soil.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.296-301
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• 2017

This study researched the status and prospect of a natural dye program in Gyeongsang region that focused on private centers with sufficient infrastructure and abundant human resources were available for natural dyes. The entire site for metropolitan cities that have difficulty in securing the land are limited (as well as smaller) because they are closer to the city; in addition, they do not own the drying house and the agricultural land for natural dyes. It is understood that the one-time program of all centers researched help to promote and maintain the centers rather than generating profit; in addition, it is shown that Jun - Aug (summer) is preferred over Dec - Feb (winter). This program uses natural indigo; consequently, natural dye program for hobby and education is operated when it is required because the number of participants are low in most cases, Persimmon Juice is used for the dyeing raw materials. Programs in operation are often outsourced with other institutes registered under private certification system; therefore, many cases of starting business are found in the institutes operating programs directly after obtaining the certification. Their plans do not allow for investment in facility such as enlargement of experience center and prospect of program; in addition, business value is generally bright for business strategies that include an exhibition shop for natural dye products and program development.