• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권12호
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• pp.1257-1269
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• 2012

The dyeing behaviors of berberine chloride, palmatine chloride hydrate, and Phellodendron bark extract on silk fabric were investigated to evaluate palmatine as another chromophoric substance of Phellodendron bark. The dyeing conditions were composed of combinations of pH (3, 5, 7, 9), temperature (10, 30, 55, $80^{\circ}C$), and time (10, 30, 60 min). The results indicate that palmatine was comparable to berberine in the dyeing behaviors tested for this study and the results were statistically significant. The dye exhaustion and dye uptake of palmatine-CH were slightly lower than berberine-C, which however were not statistically significant. Similar to berberine-C, palmatine-CH favored a pH 7 condition for both dye exhaustion and dye uptake. However, palmatine-CH favors a higher dyeing temperature and longer dyeing time than berberine-C for superior dyeing results.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제43권2호
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• pp.228-242
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• 2019

This research investigated the effect of mordants on the degradation of madder dye in silk when silk was treated by the H2O2/UV condition as a laboratory simulation of burial induced degradation. Alum, iron, and alum/iron composite mordanting methods were applied to silk before dyeing with madder dye. Dye extracted from silk was examined using HPLC-DAD-MS analysis. The abundance of the chromatogram peak at 8.88 min retention time was used as the concentration of alizarin pigment in silk. K/S values, CIE $L^{\ast}a^{\ast}b^{\ast}$ values; in addition, Munsell HVC values were obtained using a spectrocolorimeter. The findings indicated that alizarin degraded most severely in silk mordanted by alum/iron composite mordanting than alum mordanting or iron mordanting. Mordanting with alum alone provided a relatively lower dye fixation at the point of dyeing; however, it provided a better survival of alizarin after 12 hours of degradation treatment.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권12호
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• pp.1507-1517
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• 2011

Berberine, palmatine, and Phellodendron bark dye was prepared in methanol for HPLC-DAD-MS analysis of liquid dye. Silk was dyed using berberine, palmatine, and Phellodendron bark dye prepared in water. The dye was extracted from the dyed silk using the HCl/methanol/water (2:1:1 v/v/v) solvent system with a slight modification. The liquid dyes and the dye extracted from the silk samples dyed with the three dye sources were examined using the HPLC-DAD-MS analysis to simultaneously detect berberine and palmatine from the plant dye and the dyeings. Colorimetric measurement was carried out using a spectrophotometer to examine the color and the intensities of berberine, palmatine, and Phellodendron bark dyed silk samples. From the liquid dyes, berberine eluted at 5.21 min with the molecular cation m/z=336 and the UV spectrum confirming that the product was berberine. Palmatine eluted at 5.12 min with the molecular cation m/z=352 and the UV spectrum confirming that the product was palmatine. From the silk dyed with berberine and palmatine dye, berberine and palmatine species eluted at 5.35 min and 5.24 min, respectively. From the silk dyed with Phellodendron bark, berberine and palmatine were detected simultaneously at 5.35 min and 5.26 min, respectively. All three dyes had yellow hue while palmatine dyed silk showed the highest hue and chroma. Palmatine dyed silk showed the highest K/S value that indicated the strongest color intensity and the highest dye uptake.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권9_10
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• pp.1408-1417
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• 2007

In Korea, to deal with the housing needs of the elderly, the government operates free nursing homes and residential homes. And to deal with the needs for daily necessities, imported products or products for the disabled have been supplied for the elderly. The government has recognized the importance of silver industry in this rapidly aging society and has established strategies to vitalize industries related to seniors to deal with the seniors' need for food, clothing, and shelter. This study examined the necessity of nursing home gowns, and the development of nursing home gowns that are environmentally friendly, beautiful and functional for the new silver generation. For this study, literature review and Internet search were conducted regarding the status of silver fashion, necessity of nursing home gowns, emergence of new silver generation and change in lifestyle, and value and utilization of natural dye and traditional patterns. To produce nursing home gowns, fabric was dyed using fermented indigo dying, and 3 styles of nursing home gowns for each gender were designed in consideration of seasons. Lastly, these gowns were evaluated by fashion experts, medical personnel, hospital gown and silver wear experts, and natural dye experts. The results showed that the traditional Korean designs developed in this study were excellent and the fermented indigo dye was appropriate for the nursing home gowns. The development of nursing home gowns in this study will be utilized as basic material for the development of silver wear and nursing home gowns to improve the quality of life for the seniors.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.619-627
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• 2000

Historically, dyed textiles were symbols of status and, because of their expense, reserved only for people of wealth and specalist, Early dye sources probably included plant, animal and mineral extracts. As synthetic dyes have been developed, beginning with synthetic indigo in 1897, reliance on natural dye sources diminished. But renewed interest in natural dyes is fueled by a pro-environment consumer aware of the ecological liabilities of the dye industry. Han Jee was imported from China where it was influenced to period of the three kingdoms(Silla, Baekje, Kokuryo). After that, Han Jee was used for paper in old Korea for long thime before paper was came with civilization. In this paper, dyeing of Han Jee with loess were investigated according to dyeing temperature, dyeing time, loess concentration, and effects of additives. As a reuslts, λmax of Han Jee dyed by loess was 710nm. ΔE values of Han Jee increased by loess concentration, dyeing time, dyeing temperature. Dyeing with additives treatment increased dyeability. Especially, Han Jee treated with aluminium acetate shows the largest dyeability of the Han Jee. The Han Jee dyed loess had very good lightfastness.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권3호
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• pp.413-423
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• 2013

Chlorophyll is an abundant pigment found in all green plants, algae, and cyanobacteria. This study uses methanol, acetone and water to extract spinach and mate powders in order to examine the possibility of dyeing animal fibers with chlorophyll without chemical alteration. It was shown that methanol extracts of spinach and mate powders can be effectively used to dye wool and silk fabrics if the extract is mixed with water by methanol:water 65:35 v/v. Compared to methanol extract, the acetone extract showed lower chlorophyll yield and lower dye uptake. Water was not an appropriate solvent for chlorophyll extraction and dyeing. Spinach powder showed a higher dye uptake than mate powder due to the higher chlorophyll content than mate powder. It is possible that the chlorophyll dyeing of wool and silk fabrics is due to the hydrogen bonding between the hydroxy amino acids in fiber and the carbonyl groups of chlorophyll. These carbonyl groups are on the heterocyclic ring and the methyl and ethyl side chains of chlorophyll.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.107-119
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• 2001

Compared on dye, pigment is not colored to textiles, fixed by binders, so it has been used for less expensive textiles. However, the function of a binder hs been improved s organic chemical industry develops, and the flexibility and softness of textiles hs gotten better. Some of dye printing is being replace by pigment printing. Pigment printing skills illuminated and make colors represented cleariy. Since their durabillty is reasonably good and washing processes are not needed, further development of these printing skills are predictable. This study suggests color samples though theoretical researches and experiments on pigment printing that causes less pollution and en be colored on any type of textiles. Especially, over printing can be used in industrial fields because it saves processing and expense. For the improvement of pigment printing skills, more improved studies on binders are expected.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.478-485
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• 2012

The dying properties of fabrics with Chaenomelis Fructus extract were studied through an investigation of the characteristic of Chaenomelis Fructus colorants, the effect of dyeing conditions (dye temperature, dyeing concentration, and times on dye uptakes), effect of mordant, effect of UV irradiation, and color change in addition, antimicrobial ability and deodorant ability were estimated. In the UV-Visible spectrum, the wavelength of maximum absorption of Chaenomelis Fructus extract was 280 nm and showed that tannin is the major pigment component. From the increase of absorbance by UV irradiation, it was assumed that catechol tannin color was developed through UV irradiation. An increased dyeing concentration resulted in a larger dye uptake. Dye uptake increased as the dyeing time and temperature increased. Chaenomelis Fructus extract showed relatively good affinity to silk than cotton. Mordant, Fe and Cu were effective to increase the dye uptake of cotton fabric in addition, the dye uptake of silk fabric mordanted with Fe and K improved. UV irradiation let the color of dyed fabrics develop regardless of the UV irradiation stage however, UV irradiation on the dyed fabric was more effective than on the extract for the color development. Dyed silk fabric showed very good antimicrobial abilities of 99.9% in addition, deodorant ability improved in the fabric dyed with Chaenomelis Fructus extract.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.999-1009
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• 2004

Chitin is a derived product from the shell of shrimp or crab. Chitosan, a deacetylated product of chitin, has widely been used in the biomedical sector, food industry, and textile industry. Chitosan exhibits fiber-forming property under certain conditions. Nonwoven fabrics made of chitosan fibers may have diverse applications in the industry. Previous studies have revealed that the dye uptake properties of natural dyestuffs improved by the chitosan pretreatment on the fabric specimens. In this case, fabric specimen is coated with acidic salt form of chitosan, which is different from the pure chitosan, since the coating process employes coating with the acidic solution of the chitosan and subesquent drying. In this study, chitosan nonwoven fabric samples were prepared from chitosan sample having deacetylation degree of $100\%$ and molecular weight of 650,000. Chitosan nonwoven fabrics maintain the form of $-NH_2$ end-group. These in turn exhibit higher dye uptake ability than the fabrics coated with chitosan acidic solutions do.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.118-122
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• 2000

Dyeing properties of silk fabric with loess were studied by investigating the effect of dyeing conditions, such as concentration of loess, dyeing temperature and time, on dye uptakes. And also the effects of mordant and mordanting methods on color change and dye uptakes were inverstigated. For the practical use, the various color fastness of dyed fabric were evaluated. The dye uptakes of dyed fabric were increased gradually with increasing concentration of loess, dyeing time and temperature. The K/S value of dyed fabric most efficient for the premordanting method. The color fastness was improved when mordants were added.