• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.12
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• pp.1310-1317
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• 2012

This study examines the possibilities to improve natural dyestuff's (Pinux$^{TM}$) dyeability and colorfastness for C/R (Cotton/Rayon (40/60)) and W/T (Wool/Tencel (10/90)) knitted fabrics in cationizing and smectiting for pre-treatment, simultaneous-treatment and post-treatment process sequences; as well as various other treatment methods. The sample dyeability showed the strongest K/S value in the order of smectite (S) < cationization + smectite (C+S) < cationization (C); however, the K/S value showed a low level in the simultaneoustreatment method of smectite. Colorfastness to washing improved in the order of C < C+S < S, and after the smectite post-treatment process, C/R improved from Grade 1 to Grade 4 and W/T improved from Grade 1-2 to Grade 4. Colorfastness to perspiration generally improved in the same order as the colorfastness to washing and after the smectite post-treatment process C/R, W/T sample's acidic and alkaline colorfastness to perspiration improved greatly. As for the colorfastness to rubbing, the addition of smectite in the simultaneous-treatment and post-treatment processes resulted in improved wet-colorfastness; however, smectite showed less effect on the colorfastness to light compared to other colorfastness ratings.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.12
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• pp.1749-1755
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• 2002

본연구의 목적은DP가공에 의한 가교화를 통해 텐셀의 피브릴화를 조절할 때 DP가공 방법 및 NaOH전처리 효과를 물성, 표면형태, 역학적 성질 및 태의 변화의 관점에서 고찰하는데 있다. SEM 분석결과DP가공에 의해 피브릴 발생 정도는 감소하였다. DP가공 방법에 있어 서 WF법과 PDC법에 따른 물성의 차이는 나타나지 않았다. 역학적특성의 경우 DP가공은 DP가공 방법에 상관없이 효소처리한 직물의 인장선형성에는 큰 영 향을 주지 않았으나 인장에 너지, 굽힘 강성, 압축선형성, 압축 레질리언스, 기하학적 거칠기는 감소시켰고 인장 레질리언스, 굽힘이력, 압축에너지는 증가시켰다. 전단특성은 WF법에서는 증가한 반면, PDC법에서는 감소하여 DP가공 방법에 따른 차이를 나타내었다. WF법이 PDC법보다 더 높은 Koshi, Numeri, Fukurami 값을 보였으며, 종합태 값은 비슷하게 나타났다. NaOH 전처 리에 의해 수지부착량은 감소하였으나 감량률은 증가하였으며, DP성/물성은 더 낮게 나타났다. NaOH 전처리에 의해 인장선형성, 인장에너지, 압축 레질리언스, 전단 및 굽힘특성은 증가하였으나 인장레질리언스와 압축선형성, 압축에너지, 표면특성은 감소하였다. NaOH 전처리한 경우 Koshi는 증가하였고, Numrei와 Fukuramil는 감소하였으며, 종합태 값은 가장 낮았다. 처리한 시료들은 각각 다른 감성과 촉감을 나타냈다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.296-305
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• 2017

Gallnuts are known to exert various pharmaceutical properties that include anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant, and detoxifying effects. Gallnut extract is thought to be a particularly safe antimicrobial agent for textile application due to its natural origins. Hence, textiles were dyed with gallnut to develop multi-functional clothing material with no harmful effects. In this study, three kinds of cool touch woven fabrics, each comprised of 100% viscose rayon filament, viscose rayon filament/high absorption & quick dry (polyester) filament, and viscose rayon $filament/tencel^{(R)}$ spun yarn, were prepared and used as substrates for gallnut dyeing to especially develop functional cool touch textiles for summer clothing material. On the other hand, gallnut dyeing was conducted with mordanting with iron, lime or alum, which induced different colors on the dyed textiles. Dyed textiles were then investigated by SEM, FTIR, antibacterial test, and antioxidant test. Subsequently, gallnut dyed textiles indicated excellent antibacterial ability and deodorization activity regardless of mordant species. However, only gallnut dyed textiles mordanted with iron and alum showed significant antioxidant ability. In addition, the dyeing processes impair the cool touch feeling of the textiles by changing the micro structure of the textile surface.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.1061-1074
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• 2011

This study was conducted based on a comparative analysis of design-specific features prevalent in the Women's Wear Collection S/S 2011. As the method of this study, the denim styles were classified by various fashion design factors consisting of silhouette, fit, color, and textile fabric, which were extracted from an image database. The properties of denim fabrics associated with each fashion image were investigated to inform fabric development and washing. The results of the study show that the dense and glossy surface of the denim fabric represent a modern trend, which can be achieved by blending lyocell, tencel and rayon or by using different textiles, such as lightweight plain weave and satin instead of twill. For casual look, various washing effects were utilized jean's casual feeling like freedom and activities, while in a modern image, washing effects was restricted. And a glossy textile offers a simple modern look. The Modern image represents a simple H-silhouette and wide or straight fit in bottoms as well. Brightness can be adjusted by washing-induced bleaching. High brightness gives an elegant image, while low brightness makes a casual image. The purpose of this study is to configure a database for the development of design in the growing women's casual wear market. In addition, This study, in which the elements for specific fashion image-making were analyzed, can be used as a reference for developing denim style and fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.8
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• pp.1130-1138
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• 2013

We examined dyeing properties using cotton, Tencel, general nylon 66 and hollow nylon 66 treated with aqueous and ethanol extracts without mordant. The antimicrobial properties of fabrics treated with Artemisia extracts against gram positive Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus) and gram negative Klebsiella pneumonia (K. pneumonia) were also examined. The dying solution concentrations were determined from a calibration curve of the concentration and absorbance of Artemisia extracts. FTIR spectra confirmed that antimicrobial components and colorants (such as 1,8-cineol, thujone, caffeoylquinic acid and chlorophyll) were more present in ethanol extract than in aqueous extract. Nylons had higher $a^*$ and $b^*$, and lower $L^*$ values than cellulose fabrics dyed with aqueous solutions of Artemisia extracts; however, the dyed nylon fabrics were brown. Fabrics dyed with ethanol-extract added solutions were greener and had higher antimicrobial properties than those dyed with aqueous solutions; however, they faded and lost their antimicrobial properties after laundering. Fabrics regained their antimicrobial properties (especially against S. aureus) by the spraying of Artemisia ethanol extract; therefore, the application of Artemisia ethanol extract onto underwear is expected to relieve atopic dermatitis.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.15-33
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• 2000

The purpose of this thesis is to suggest the new ecology fashion through the comprehensive approach to analyze the difference of characteristics between ecology fashion established before the early 1990's and new ecology fashion advented in the late 1990's and create the design inspired by the image of new ecology fashion. As a method of accomplishing this research, the articles and magazines related to the fashion were examained. Also internet was surfied for studying social and cultural background of new ecology and examining the trend of new ecology expressed at design at first. Through examining the fashion mode in the late 1990's related to the trend of new ecology, the characteristics of new ecology fashion have been devided by the fabric, color and detail and drown out three images of new ecology fashion. The cultural background of new ecology is advent of fusion, techno and zen culture in the late 1990's. The characteristics of new ecology fashion are as follows. As regards of the fabrics, It's been used naturalized synthetic fabrics such as lycra and tencel produced by the advanced technology as well as luxurious natural fabrics. As the aspect of colors, on the basis of neutral colors shown to the previous ecology fashion, the wide range of colors including the vivid colors has been presented sophisticatedly. The most evident characteristic of new ecology fashion is the increase of details, along with keeping the minimal style. According to this trend of new ecology fashion, three charicteristic images can be extracted ; the techno ecology, the modern ecology and the romantic ecology. As the megatrend sustained during the late 1990's, the trend of new ecology was the mainstream not only of the fashion but also of the human life style, and has the potential continued in the 2000's.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.862-873
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of the Military style in the 20th century and the images of the Military look shown in recent collections. The results of this study are as follows; 1) The aesthetic values of the Military style includes authority, functionality, resistibility and bisexuality. Authority is represented in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Functionality is represented in pants suits and skirts suits which are comfortable and simple. Resistibility is represented in wrinkled, dirty-old and torn military items. Bisexuality is shown on the military pants suits that a skirt or a mink coat is draped over. 2) The Military look in collections are expressed in classic, romantic, sexual, sporty, avant-garde and ethnic images. Classic images are appeared in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Romantic images are represented in the military items made of pastel-tone lace or splendid colored silk. Sexual images are appeared in designs to expose or to focus in women's body. Sporty images are represented in the military items made of new materials such as cotton-fleece, cotton-jersey and tencel. They have camouflage prints, melange-gray and fluorescent colors. Avant-garde images are appeared in the deformed suits and outer made of special materials with camouflage prints, khaki, gray and black. Ethnic images are represented in wearing military and ethnic items at the same time or military items made of ethnic colors, prints and handmade details.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.173-180
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• 2008

Cotton, wool, cotton/wool blended (80:20) and tencel fabrics were treated with low temperature oxygen plasma, enzymes (cellulase or protease), or oxygen plasma-enzyme and they were examined for dyeing and handling properties for environment friendly finishing. The appropriate conditions for cellulase treatment were enzyme concentration of 3g/l, pH of 5, and $60^{\circ}C$ for one hour, and for protease treatment were enzyme concentration of 4g/l, pH of 8, and $60^{\circ}C$ for one hour. The equilibrium uptake of a direct dye on cotton changed with plasma treatment and plasma-cellulase treatment, and the rate of dyeing slightly decreased. When wool was dyed with acid dye, the equilibrium dye uptake did not change with plasma, protease treatment nor plasma-protease treatment, however, the rate of dyeing had increased with plasma-protease treatment. From these results, it is assumed that plasma attacks the surface of the fiber, and enzyme mainly affects the inner part of the fiber. Plasma treatment did not affect mechanical properties related to the handling of fabrics. The handling test showed increased extension at maxmum load(EM), tensile energy(WT) with decreased tensile resilience (RT), and the fabrics became softer but resilience decreased slightly with enzyme treatment. The bending recidity(B), hysteresis of bending moment(2HB), and hysteresis of shear force at five degrees(2HG5) decreased, however, shear stiffness(G) increased. I knew the plasma pre-treatment made fabrics softer with lower koshi(stiffness). The handling of plasma pre-treated fabrics was better than that of enzyme-treated fabrics. When we pre-treated fabrics, the handling test showed decreased coefficient of friction(MIU), geometrical roughness(SMD), while the surface of fabrics became smoother and numeri increased. Even though compression resilience(RC) increased, fukurami(bulky property) and compressive elasticity, decreased due to the linearity of compression-thickness curve(LC) and compression energy(WC).

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.326-332
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• 2014

To develop cool touch feeling fabrics for summer clothing material, it was manufactured several compositions of woven fabrics, having rayon multi-filament yarn (non-twisted) as warp and various kinds of yarn, such as viscose rayon multi-filament yarn (twisted), tencel$^{(R)}$ spun yarn, PET high absorbance quick dry filament yarn, and PET based rayon-like yarn, as weft. After preparing the fabrics, basic properties of the fabrics were investigated, such as air-permeability, tensile strength, absorption rate, drying rate, etc. Also, surface warm / cool sensations of the woven fabrics were assessed by Qmax Warm / Cool Touch Tester. It was observed that the fabrics composed of viscose rayon multi-filament yarn (warp) and PET high absorbance quick dry filament yarn (weft) showed excellent surface cool touch sensation-the highest Qmax value. This is because the fabric having flat shaped PET high absorbance quick dry filament shows the largest contact area with Qmax measuring plate. And, the fabric also showed superior high absorbance and quick dry property as expected. In addition, we treated phase change material (PCM) on the surface of the fabric composed of viscose rayon multi-filament yarn (warp) and PET high absorbance quick dry filament yarn(weft) to improve the cool touch feeling. However, the surface cool touch feeling was impaired by resin treated with PCM during the finishing process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.84-97
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• 2017

Water vapor and thermal transmission properties of high emotional garments are important to evaluate wear comfort; in addition, the measuring methods of these properties are also critical for breathable and warm suit fabrics. In this study, the water vapor and thermal properties of composite yarn fabrics made of CoolMax, Tencel, and Bamboo fibers with filaments were measured and compared according to the measuring method. Water Vapor Transmittance (WVT) of the fabric woven by the sheath/core composite yarn in the warp direction was the highest due to the small staple fiber volume in the sheath/core yarn structure and high air voids in the sheath/core yarn fabrics. This property was also the highest in fabrics woven by bamboo staple yarns in the weft direction, and was the lowest on hi-multi filament fabrics. However, water vapor resistance ($R_{ef}$) of these fabrics by KSK ISO 11092 showed the opposite results to the water vapor transmittance method ($CaCl_2$ method); in addition, its correlation coefficient was low. The correlation coefficient between $R_{ef}$ and the drying rate was 0.719; therefore, the measurement mechanism of $R_{ef}$ is analogous to the drying property measurement. The thermal conductivity of the fabrics woven with compact staple yarn showed a high value; however, the hi-multi filament fabric showed low thermal conductivity. Therefore, fiber characteristics affect thermal properties more than yarn structure. The correlation between thermal property and moisture transport was also low. This study showed that: water vapor transmittance was active at the loose yarn structure, dry heat transport was vigorous at the compact yarn structure, and heat transport was affected more by fiber characteristics than yarn structure. In conclusion, sheath/core composite yarns were relevant to the high absorptive cool suit along with siro-fil and CoolMax/Bamboo staple yarns that were relevant to the heat diffusive cool suit.