• 복식
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• 제32권
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• pp.117-130
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• 1997

The purpose of this study were to identify the design elements and the changing flow of advertisement from 1970's to 1990's by using content analysis of men's magazines. Finding were as followed; First through the analysis of men's wear advertisement in magazine it was found that the closer to 1990's the more various men's wear styles and backgrounds were advertized. These were more image oriented than product oriented. Since 1980 the advertisement about the licenced and the imported brands have been increased and the serial advertisement has shown more fre-quently than the 1-page advertisement since 1990's ; Second two piece suit was dominated in men's wear during 1970's and 1980's From 1990's this style was decresed in stead combi suit was increased. In 1970's the X silhouette was infashion and the y and the X silhouette was in fashion and the y and X sillhouette were increased during 1980's . The H silhouette was dominated in 1990's The brighter and the more various colors appeared in 1990's than in 1970's. The brighter and the more various colors appeared in 1990's than in 1970's The solid pattern was the main flow in men's wear however the stripes and the the check patterns were added in 1990's Third single breasted jacket style with two buttons and tailored collar was in fashion during 1970's . The length of the v-zone was shorter than half at this time however it was lengthened in 1980's . Also the the length of the jacket was lengthened. In 1990's the double breasted jacket style and two buttons were increased. The length of the v-zone and jacket were also lengthened.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.90-99
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to compare female members's jumper and jacket preferences for five different styles of Fall/Winter jumpers and jackets, divided into three age groups(65-69 yr, 70-74 yr, over 75 yr). Total 324 senior females, ages over 65 in Kimhae and Busan area were chosen for the study. The major findings of this study were as follow; For the age group, 65 to 69, in the jumper category, it was important for them to look slender and sophisticated. Jumpers with quilted thin fabrics, jumpers with hooded jumpers zippers, and short chinese collar in the short blouson style were preferred in the age group. Jacket needed to be designed in A-line styles, short or long with one or two buttons and of various length. For those in the 70 to 74 age group, the jumper designs need to be tidy and clean with box-shaped pockets. In addition, various formal style jumpers with increasing length up to hip lines. For jackets, it is necessary to increase the number of designs with convertible collars with three button in front, elegantly covered pocket, long enough to cover the hip line. For those in the age group of 75 or over, it was essential for jumpers and jackets to be of increasing length in box style, loose-fit with, front-closure or snap buttons and out pockets that allows one to put their hands in the jumper. They preferred jacket length down to the hip-line, wing collar for jumpers, tailored collar for jackets more than the other age groups.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.43-52
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to present the plan for activation and rationalization of production of ladies' jacket and provide basic materials for improvement of the development of technologies in relation to the productivity improvement of ladies' jacket and the achievement of high quality product. For this purpose, this study attempted to investigate the present situation of jacket manufacturing process. The data is related with local ladies' jacket manufacturing companies in Seoul snd Kyonggi area. The results of this study are as follows. 1. 87.8% of the business firms responded that they acquired the productive process of jacket based on their own knowhow and 80.5% was aware of the need for the analysis of each process. The highest proportion of the business firms(65.9%) pointed out that the advantage of process analysis was the alleviation of the production time. 2. The jacket manufacturing process was made up of 4 stages such as the process of frontal/rear plate $\rightarrow$ the process of accessories $\rightarrow$ the process of completion $\rightarrow$ the process of finishing in a broad sense but composed of a total of 19 stages in detail. 3. Attachment of the sleeves(73.2), attachment of the collar(41.5%) and the formation of the overall silhouette(22.0%) were raised as the challenge in manufacturing ladies' jacket. 4. Most of the sewing business firms made use of the method of completing the collar and then stitching the outer material and the inner collar, and the line of the bodice and the outer collar as the method of stitching the tailored collar. and many of them used the method of completing the collar and then inserting it between the line of the bodice and the outer material and stitching it as the method of stitching the stand collar. They had a preference for the method of completing the sleeve and connecting it to the bodice as the method of stitching the sleeve. and used the method of treating the margin to seam of semi-lined and unlined jacket by treating it with the bias tape.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.113-127
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• 2021

This study aims to analyze the style of men's suits and extract expressional words for the development of semantic differential scales of visual images according to the change in silhouette. Research methods are literature studies, case studies, and questionnaires. The stimuli were created using CLO 3D, a virtual sewing CAD. This study's results are as follows: 1) The British suit jacket has an angled shoulder line using thin pads, and a slightly higher waistline. The pants of the suit have a high waistline and two pleats, so the thighs of the pants are wide. The American suit jacket has a natural shoulder line, and the waistline is not emphasized. The width of the jacket is relaxed, and the length is long. The pants of the suit have a higher waistline, and the pants are wide as well. The Italian suit jacket has wide shoulders, and the waistline is connected lower with a soft curve, and the length is relatively short. The trousers of the suit are tapered and get narrower as it goes down to the hem. 2) Because it originated in the practices of true bespoke tailoring, traditional British suits have a far more 'fitted' silhouette than the mass-produced styles that became emblematic of the American style. By the late 1950s, a sack-style suit was standard American business attire. This technique gives the sack suit its characteristically 'boxy' silhouette. The "Continental" presented a highly tailored silhouette, with padded shoulders, a slim, tight-fitting chest, and a closely tapered waist. The story was that Italian culture valued aesthetics over all else and thus sought the 'slim' suit style as much as possible. 3) The main expressional words of visual images for men's suits differ greatly depending on the silhouette of suit. The visual images are ranked in the order of 'neat', 'classic', 'educated', 'hard', 'mature', for fitted silhouettes. The words of 'masculine', 'basic', 'comfortable', 'simple', 'mature', 'conservative', 'modern', are ranked for boxy silhouettes. And the words of 'slim', 'young', 'neat', are noted for slim silhouettes.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.82-97
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• 2016

This study attempted to summarize the characteristics of fashion in the 1930s which were the background of 'Bonnie and Clyde' and analyze how fashion in the 1930s was expressed through costume in the movie, focusing on some critical scenes. For this, previous studies and domestic & foreign books, magazines and DVDs relating to movie costume were examined. For analysis of movie costume, 'Bonnie and Clyde (1967)' DVD was referred to. In the movie, meaningful scenes were captured using a GOM Player. Then, the study results found the followings: First, in terms of women's fashion in the 1930s, adult look and slim & long silhouette which naturally revealed breast, waist and hip with a long skirt, a military look with strong shoulders and tailored costume were found. In terms of men's fashion, in contrast, the Duke of Windsor Style (a slim silhouette jacket and loose pants) was popular. Second, in the movie, Bonnie's costume started with a slim linen H-line dress at her first meeting with Clyde. While committing crimes and becoming a famous gangster, she displayed the fashion styles which were in vogue in the 1930s such as fancy and luxurious slim dress, tailored suit and trench coat. Third, in terms of Clyde's costume, from his first meeting with Bonnie to his first crime, he put on common costume (ex: pants, vest, shirts, etc.) which revealed his open and unconventional character. After he became a famous gangster, he would wear the Duke of Windsor style (jacket, vest and pants). The study results well describe movie costume's role as visual language which expresses characters' inner circumstances and outer situations that reflect socio-cultural background.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2014

This study investigated body type among women in their 20s and the development of prototypes for tailored jackets by body type in order to design clothes in consideration of an imbalance in body type caused by the popularity of portable devices such as smartphones and Netbooks. This study aims to create a design of jacket patterns by body type through both actual and virtual wear testing among women in their 20s, who are the major consumer of ready-made clothes and are very sensitive to size fit. This study will provide pattern information for the manufacture of jackets with a goal of securing the latest scientific body type information and establish the grounds for a research method in the manufacture of clothes. According to actual and virtual wear tests of four different body types, a significant difference was found in armhole circumference in most types because it was scanned with the arms slightly apart to prevent the armhole area from being missed during the 3D scanning. This has resulted in a slight distortion in measurements. To correct this problem, it is necessary to verify the precision of the body scanner and its program. In categories in which a large significant difference was found, it is necessary to test them against many subjects. In addition, it would be required to perform a further study on the 3D virtual wear system, which could be useful in the clothing industry.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.121-135
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze the image evaluation and the preference of tailored jacket according to the body type and the degree of satisfaction with their body of middle-aged women. The subjects used for this study were three hundred and twenty three middle-aged women ranging from 35 to 50 years old. We measured their bodies and asked them report to the questionnaire. The results are as follows. 1) Middle-aged women were classified into four typical types of body. The type 1 was tall and thin and had a front view silhouette with the form of a letter X. The type 2 was the tallest and the medium of fatness and had a front view silhouette with the form of a letter H that the lower part of the body is short. The type 3 was the medium of height and width and had a front view silhouette with the form of a letter A that the upper part of the body is short compared with their height. The type 4 were the shortest and the fattest and had a front view silhouette with the form of a letter Y that the lower and upper parts of the body is the longest. 2) Middle-aged women roughly tended not to be satisfied with part of their body. The results showed that a neck was the most satisfied body part and the weight was the least satisfied as well as overall leg shape among all 13 body parts. 3) The type 1 had the highest the degree of satisfaction on their face size, upper arm girth, waist, hip girth, weight and body shape, etc., excepting hip shape among 4 body types.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권12호
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• pp.1649-1660
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• 2006

본 연구는 미국에서 1980년대 후반기 부터 시작되어, 1990년대를 지나오면서 활성화되었던 비즈니스 캐쥬얼과, 2000년대를 시작하면서 재활성화 되기 시작한 전통적이고 보수적인 직장복 스타일을 배경으로, 미국 직장여성들의 비지니스 쟈켓 착용정도를 그들의 개인적, 인구통계적, 사회경제적, 사회심미적, 신체적 특성과 관련하여 비교 연구하였다 직장의 근무 환경과 직장에 대한 만족도 또한 비지니스 쟈켓 착용정도와 관련하여 비교 검토하였다. 연구대상자는 미국에 거주하는 25세 이상의 직장여성들이였으며, 자료는 1999년도에 Database회사인 National Demographics & Lifestyles(NDL) 에서 무작위로 추출한 1500명의 직장여성들에게 우편을 통한 설문지 조사로 수집되었다. 자료분석에는 빈도, 백분율, 편차, 표준편차를 비롯한, Canonical Correlation이 사용되었다. 분석결과에 의하면, 자료수집에 참여한 미국 직장 여성들의 평균 연령은 44세 였으며, 대부분이 기혼 여성들이였으며(77.4%),전문직에 종사하고 있었으며 (75.9%), 적어도 1명 이상의 자녀가 있었다(78.9%). 가설검증결과에 의하면, 미국 직장여성들의 비즈니스 쟈켓 착용정도에 관련된 요소들은 직장여성들의 (1) 연령, (2) 자녀수, (3) 첫째 자녀의 연령, (4) 가족 사이즈, (5) 의복 착용에 대한 자신감, (6) 직장만족도, (7) 의복의 중요성, (8) 체격 사이즈, (9) 의복 사이즈, (10) 직장상사와 대중과의 교류 정도들 이였다. 그 중에서도, 직장 여성들의 첫째아이의 연령, 가족 사이즈, 직장만족도, 의복 사이즈들은 비지니스 쟈켓 착용 정도와 부정적인 상관관계를 보여 주었다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.835-844
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• 1997

The purpose of the study was to develop a size chart for elderly women over 60s. In order to investigate the differences in sine and figure, we measured 28 measurements of the 400 samples in Seoul in 1996. The selected measurements were what required to draft a tailored jacket patterns. At the beginning of the study, we surveyed about the difficulties and complaints on clothing of elderly in general with the samples of customers and suppliers for larger sizes. They preferred a jacket when they go out, and most frequently experienced difficulty was not to be able to find a decent clothing of suitable design and fitting size.'chat is why we concentrated the study on the measurements required for jackets. We analyzed the data as follows. 1. As Korean apparel industry use K.S. sizing system, we decided to use the same measurement to categorize the samples, bust and height. 2. We found out the frequency in the sixte chart and suggests the production sixte for over 60s. 3. We suggested some of the distinct figure related characteristics for better fitting.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권5호
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• pp.726-740
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the combination of suit details through visual evaluation which helps compensating the classic style suits-middle aged women's body construct for their more attractive fashion styles. The styles of the evaluated suits are formal and classical. The designs of evaluated suits are manipulated in 40 different kinds by the essential elements such as collars, necklines(tailored collars, soutien collars, stand collars, round necklines, V-necklines, etc.), bottoms(slacks, skirts), pocket (flap pocket, none) and opening(opened, closed). The data evaluated by a multiple ranking test were analyzed by paired t-test, ANOVA and Duncan's multiple raged test. The results are summarized as follows : 1. A middle aged woman on skirts suits look more graceful, more elegant, and a bit more refined than that on slacks suits. 2. A middle aged woman wearing a jacket with flap pockets on looks more balanced, and graceful than when wearing with no pockets. 3. Wearing closed jackets looks more balanced and graceful than on opened jackets. 4. The types of collar·necklines can be called the details which put much influence on Image effects. Putting on tailored collar suits is the most graceful, refined, balanced and harmonious case than any others.