• 복식
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• 제56권8호
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• pp.60-73
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• 2006

This study analyzes the Baekche official costume system, including the dress, cap and belt systems, by relating documentary records with the results of excavations. The study shows that the system differed depending on the time. A system of dress based on official ranks was instituted during the region of King Goi in the third century. The rap amd belt systems were begun in the first half of sixth century The official costume system, as recorded in the Chinese history $Sus{\u{o}}$, included many subdivisions of cap colors, which followed belt colors. According to $Gudangs{\u{o}}$, dress and cap systems changed in the seventh century. The official costume consisted of a $jacket(j{\u{o}}gori)$, trousers(baji), and coat(po). The coat had wide sleeves and reached below knees. Its collar had straight neckline. Officials of all rank wore silk caps and belts of matching colors. Officials above sixth rank used silver flower decorations on their caps. Officials wore wide-crouch trousers and generally adjusted the hems of the trousers, but this practice stopped in the sixth century. Officials wore shoes or boots depending on occasion. From a historical viewpoint, Baekche is important for having been the first Korean kingdom to establish a government organization. The salient feature of the system of organization established in A.D. 260(the twenty-seventh year of the region of King Goi) was the application of different colors to identify different ranks.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.317-335
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• 1994

The purpose of this thesis is to analyze the relation of the mentalistics linguistics and costume, and to clarify the relationship between language as psychological expressions and costume to understand the phenomena of human costume behavior more deeply and comprehensively. As for the analysis of he costume phenomena, Noam Chomsky's psychological linguistic theory were applied to costume system. In this respect, particularly, by means of Chomsky's later theory(1965), the costume behavior were analyzed. The followings are the findings of the analysis : 1. The Syntactic Component: (※ See Full-Text) 2. The Semantic Component. The costme behavior is similar to a language system. Just as one morpheme or a phrase and phrases make different sentences, so various methods wearing costume make different sentences, so various methods wearing costume make different forms is costume. Language and costume have dictionary entry showing the meaning of vocabulary, and rules combining the individual meaning of the dictionary entry to complete the sentence.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.988-1002
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• 1997

The objectives of this study are to consider about the research of a costume and a discussion about a system of costume by practical science scholar in the late period of Chosun Dynasty. The result are descrived as follows: 1. The purpose that practical sciellce scholars researched a costulne was not only the intellectual research but also to make a basis in order to reform a uncorrected costume's system. Their study had two point. The one was the investigating research about the origin and change of the costume. The other was the study about a formation of costume. 2. The practical science scholars determined the directions to reform a wrong costumes' system on the basis of the research about a costume. They had three directions. Those were a conservatism, a rationalism to think the realities of life and a reformation. 3. The practical science scholars' thinking was to pursue the origin form and the practical use. This two axis show the direction to improve our costulne's culture now a day.

• 복식
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• 제62권4호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2012

Ever since the year 2000, Korea's musical markets has invited famous overseas license performances and have therefore cooperated with staffs working overseas in regards to stage costumes. This study aims to suggest the methodology of the stage costume making process according to the present advanced production system of Korea's musical market. The researcher participated in the stage costume making work of 'Chicago' as a costume supervisor. It took place at the Opera House of Seongnam Art Center from January 10, 2010 to February 28, 2010. Furthermore, there was significance in reinforcing academic values and implementing practical making process of stage-costumes based on the actual field work. The method of this research was carried out through a theoretical research and a case study that focused on empirical research. As for the research scope, it was limited to the actual stage-costumes that the researcher fully engaged with as a costume supervisor of the musical 'Chicago.' The results of this study were as follows. The stage costume making process of the musical 'Chicago' was categorized according to the classification of production system in the performance. For pre-production, it was divided according to the information of the actor and the analysis of the bible. Rehearsal period was divided according to the product clothes and fitting. Production week & preview were divided according to the changeover of clothes and the arrangement of dressers. The Run was divided according to the inspection of the situation concerning clothes in general during the performance. Post-Production Period was divided according to the collection of clothes and the implemented database. This study eventually suggested appropriate stage-costume making processes for the costumes making environment according to the expansion of overseas license musical market. However, it has a limitation of the research scope to the musical 'Chicago.' The creative performances of the domestic version are planned in diverse forms and come to abroad animate by the Korean Wave. Therefore, the field of stage-costume is necessary for the establishment of practical schemes of the system and copyright in accordance with the environment.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.83-95
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• 2011

Today, a variety performance premiered in Korea, works of art as an advanced production planning and production system is becoming. Accordingly, the field of stage costume also increased collaboration with foreign producers and production systems and the advancement of the stage costume are required are becoming. The opening performance of the 30th anniversary of the Seoul Theater Festival was selected as Towol Theater Theater in 2009, April 16 to 26 of Picasso's women's costume is the study of production systems. This work directing and stage design by inviting domestic producers from foreign fields, and co-authored the work in the field of stage costumes in collaboration with foreign producers that are worth study and research work. In this study, this work has a practical study of costumes throughout the production system, an advanced stage costumes to contribute to the development of the field. The research methodology book data, collected papers, Internet resources through research and theoretical studies play 'Picasso's women's stage production of the award total to an empirical study was undertaken. The results of this study are as follows. First, the costume director for making a scholarly grasp of the direction of the investigation is ongoing throughout the process of creating the costumes. Second, foreign producers and co-author of the stage when the award, if other than purely domestic producers and create costumes to build production systems. Third, foreign producers and co-costume design and costume making coherent explanation for the processing of the list(Costume Breakdown List) are developed. Fourth, the actual performance over the director's intention to visualize the presentation was good enough, and the idea of the costume crew was taken to the director's idea of directing a play that reflected the will has a big meaning.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2013

The stage costume in theater, along with the stage art, is the element that has the biggest visual effect in helping the audience to understand the theater. Nevertheless, in the domestic theater production system, compared with the other public performance products, the stage costume has been rented or purchased due to the lack understanding of the importance of the stage costume and budget problem, and thus the role of the stage costume has been undervalued. Such a phenomenon is more noticeable in the small scale theater. However, in this play White Neutral Nation (Original: Andorra), the production team and the directing team recognized the importance of the costume in the early stage of production, and accordingly lots of efforts, such as staff meetings and budget allocation, were made for the stage costume. As a result, the entire production process of the stage costume could be examined. Recently, performance culture in Korea has made rapid progress and diverse forms of public performances are created and planned. Accordingly, the level of audience has been rising and the interest in the stage costume is also rising. So, it can be said that not only the stage costume but also the production system that makes it are important. This research examined the production process of the stage costume only of the play White Neutral Nation but it is considered necessary to make researches on the production process of the stage costume used for the theater of different themes and public performances of different kinds and to systematize their production process of the stage costume.

• 복식
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• 제38권
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• pp.83-100
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to figure out how stage costume of Peking Opera communicates what the character wants to inform to spectator. The stage costume means the clothing, shoes, headdress, accessory that the cast is worn for communicating personality of character. Stage costume not only reveals the character of new spirit who the director and the work is like to create, but also makes the style of play harmonizing with the atmosphere of the work. So, the stage costume in the play is a sort of symbol system that forms the depth of play. The stage costume of Peking Opera was formed on the basis of the Chinese traditional stage costume in the Qing period, however the style of stage costume was beautified the costume of Ming period and here contained the factors of successive costumes. But the stage costume of Peking Opera don't have the same rank system with real history costume and don't have demarcation according to period and history. Only it is that transformed and created the real history costume with Chinese fine view and made how they wear Chinese fine view and made how they wear the costume according to position, age, personality of character in the play. In the stage costume of Peking Opera, the color is cultural language that director can communicate to spectators and can inform spectator of sex, age, personality, position of the character. The color of the stage costume of Peking Opera reflects the principles of Yin and Yang and the five elements of the Chinese cosmogony. The pattern of decoration also makes the personality and characteristic of the character. The dragon pattern symbols the authority and majesty, so only the character of high position can use it. The pattern of tiger and leopard symbols bravery, so the military officer can use it. Civil officer decorates with the pattern of Japanese apricot, orchid, chrysanthmum, bamboo that symbols integrity and honor. The stage costume of Peking Opera communicates the identity of character with the special form of costume. Kanjien is a costume of the young priestess, Houyi is the Sunwukong'costume. Chayi is a costume of boatman. Lingzi, Sweixiu, Kaoqi is the props for the foramtive effect of stage costume, also they play an important part in expressing the emotion situation. In the result of study, we could know that the form, color, pattern of the stage costume and props of Peking Opera play important parts in communicating informations that let spectator can understand the play. So, the stage costume of Peking Opera is an‘picturizing costume’that the form, color, pattern of the stage costume is a sort of symbol system. It makes spectator feels actually the viewing Peking Opera.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.139-153
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to consider the kinds and features of costume and fabrics of the early Koryo period which are mentioned in the records of costume system, royal presents and diplomatic articles at that time ranging from the reigns of king Gwangjong to king Gyeongjong and to king Seongjong. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. In the 11th year of king Gwangjong's reign, the official costume system was established, which reflected the royal will to independence as an imperial nation. That system also became the basis of the official wage system in king Gyeongjong's reign. In the reigns of king Gwangjong and king Gyeongjong, the monarch granted official uniforms to persons who passed the state examination, directly connecting with new bureaucrats and strengthening the royal authority. Those uniforms were usually worn at a banquet where the monarch and subjects participate together in the early Koryo period. In the reign of king Seongjong, costume and fabrics were positive means of realizing political Confucianism as they were used for bureaucrats who advanced to official position through the state examination. Records issued at that time explain that the monarch presented costume and fabrics in an effort to getting along with officials and civilians of different classes as the state and the royal authority stabilized. Found in the records released in the reigns of king Gwangjong to king Seongjong, the kinds of costume or fabrics at that time include jikseongeuio, gap, yongeui, seupeui, gyegeum baekcheop, geumeunseon gyegeumpoyok and po. The techniques of manufacturing armors in the early Koryo period were probably advanced since the item was a craftwork presented to the court in the reigns of kings Gwangjong and Gyeongjong. Presumedly, baekcheop was a kind of hemp and po. Koryo's native hemp cloth.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.73-89
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• 2004

The following is a summary of comparative study on costumes between 『Cheng-Hoe-Jeon-Do』 and 『Chen-De-dang-an』 in Gun-Ryung 41st, 42nd and 43rd yew to find out costume situation actually worn by Emperor Gun-Ryung in Qing dynasty. In Gun-Ryung 41st year, Emperor's costumes showed a sign of royal tour robes. In 42nd year, a phase of mourning robe system came out and a plain side of costumes was shown owing to the mourning. In 43rd year, it showed costume situation worn by Emperor in peaceful year without any particular event. Velvet, material for traveling crown was used in a short time before and after the change of the season besides royal tour and this can be understood as a well-timed and reasonable selection of material. Eventhough robe material, Jik-kyung-Ji-chack-sa(a kind of silk) had been used for summer robes since Gun-Ryung 42nd you. Memorial costumes followed Emperor's court costume system I in 『Cheng-Hoe-Jeon-Do』 and court belt I or II as memorial suit belt was used for the memorial costume of Emperor Gun-Ryung and they properly applied of the costume system in 『Cheng-Hoe-Jeon-Do』 for coats.

• 복식
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• 제50권8호
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• pp.149-163
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to research the Korean and Japanese costume systems and to compare both of them on the process of adopting the western-originated costumes. The consequences of this study are as follows. Chosen and Japan started simplifying the traditional clothings, Introducing the western clothings and executed the ordinance prohibitory topknots through reforming costume systems since Port Opening Treaties in 19th centra. Japan performed the reformation of costume system effectively through the grand campaign of social reforming enlightment by Meiji Government. Meanwhile in Korea, there were a continual repetition of adoption and rejection in the reformation of costume systems because of strong cultural self-esteem and competition of foreign Empires. However, western-originated cultural perspectives brought the strong self-devaluated view on their own cultures to both countries. And that's the first cause of substitution of western clothings for ordinary ones in both nations.