• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.28
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• pp.239-253
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• 1996

The purpose of this dissertation is to exam-ine the hippie look which is one of the most popular fashion trends in the early 90s, in re-lation to the hippie style in 60s and cultural restoration. in order to investigate the re-lationship this dissertation studies the trans-feral phenomenon of anti-fashion into mother fashion in the basis of social and clutural theories. hippie culture is the anti-culture which appeared in America in the late 60s, it tried to create a new culture by subverting the ruling class culture with their combative life style and peculiar appearance which are distinguished from mother culture. First of all to examine the inner symbolic meaning and outer shape of the hippie style I divided the characteristics of the hippies into ideology social value and attitude on sex. in the aspect of ideology the hippie show strong subjectivity while mother culture shows ob-jectivity. in social value the hippie has the resisting chaacteristics while mother culture has the conformative characteristics. In the aspect of sex the hippie tries to break the fixed idea of mother culture. Hippie culture as anti-culture is symbolically expressed in hippie style fashion which is dif-ferent from mother fashion in shape. There-fore the inner meaning and the outer shape of the hippie style shows strong characteristics of anti-fashion. Hippie style as anti-fashion has an effect on high fashion in the late 60s and the early 70s and on hippie look which is restored in 90s. however hippie-look in 90s is a mother-fashion in which all symbolic mean-ings of the hippie style are weakened and the only outer shape of hippie style is presented and suggested. It doesn't show any cultural backgrounds ideology social value and new attitude on sex of the hippies. The transferal phenomenon of anti-fashion into mother-fashion is summarized as follows. First in the process of tranference to highfashion in 60s and 70s and hippie-look in 90s the resistance of the hippie style is weakened and only suggested through the outer look. Second the hippie style which reappeared in the high fashion and mother fashion in 90s are layered look military uniform mode flower print grunge look romantic look peasant look ethnic look gypsy style handicraft ornaments working suit style handicraft ornaments working suit style and the use of the see-through cloth. Third the fact that the popular and high fashion were influenced by anti fashion in 60s proves filter-up theory in fashion adaption theory. As I examined before the ideology of the hippies are faded in high fashion in 60s-70s and hippie-look in 90s. The symbolic meaning of the hippie style is also weakened and only presented as a fashion trend.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.81-101
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• 2021

Traditional department stores have been struggling to attract customers for several years. Many retail stores have closed in recent years, even before the COVID-19 pandemic. The reinvention of in-store shopping value and experience is imperative to attract customers and reinvigorate retail business. The purpose of this study was to discover which in-store components can improve customer experiences and loyalty while also identifying dissatisfaction issues in consumer experiences in department stores. The data was collected from two consumer groups-luxury department store (Selfridges) customers and mid-market department store (Debenhams) customers-to identify the types of value and experiences they seek most often. The findings showed that to enhance their store patronage, Debenhams should reposition their brand image in a way that allows customers to connect with their self-image and lifestyle by improving efficiency and convenience and prioritizing the utilitarian and social value types. By contrast, Selfridges should enhancetheir store atmosphere, visual merchandising and sensory experiences by maximizing slow retailing experiences and emphasizing the aspirational self-concept image for symbolic and hedonic value. This research uncovered the existence of numerous overlappingvalue dimensions, each of which contributed to the enhancement of the others. Several young customers expressed their support for ecologically responsible, cost-effective second-hand luxury products. Instead of focusing merely on conventional value dimensions, department retailers should determine how environmental and ethical objectives can be fulfilled. This study explained how department stores can craft their in-store environments to appeal to their customers' preferred value types to ensure success in a competitive market.

• 제어로봇시스템학회:학술대회논문집
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• 1995.10a
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• pp.332-335
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• 1995

A simple and effective method for improving Euclidean norm condition number for chemical processing system is presented. The singular value sensitivities of Freudenberg et al. (1982) is used to estimate the behavior of singular values of process transfer function matrix when design parameter is changed, then the condition number can be calculated straightforwardly. The method requires explicit dependencies of each transfer function matrix elements on design parameters. These dependencies can be obtained either by symbolic differentiation in the form of explicit function of design parameters, or by numerical perturbation studies for units with large and complicated models. Gerschgorin-type lower bound for minimum singular value is introduced to detect the large divergencies near singular point due to linearity of sensitivities. The case studies are performed to show the efficiency of the proposed method.

• Journal of Science of Art and Design
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• v.6
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• pp.33-59
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze the symbolic meaning of the Tiger in Korean Folk Paintings, Minhwa, (hereafter, Minhwa) connected to its social contexts in Joseon period. Thinking of the Tiger Minhwa as a 'visual language' and regard the Tiger as a 'visual signifier' as well as the united-signifiers such as a Korean magpie, pine tree and so on in Minhwa. This research is to analyze these signifieds, 'Signified', what we say in this paper, have composed its symbolic meaning related to the social 'ideological complexes' and collective consciousness during Joseon period. In a word, the characteristic of the Tiger signifier has changed and spread out from the ideal trend to a worldly one. Since the late Joseon period, the change of the social contexts was, because of the civil classes who recognized the limitation of the Sung Confucianism(the doctrines of $Chi-Tz\={u}$), the predominated ideology of that time. To get rid of their uneasiness, they brought the Shamanism, Taoism and Buddhism at the front which were usually the lower class ideology or belief and tried to construct the collective consciousness and safety of their real lives. Therefore, the trend of this 'common conceptualization' show us the positiveness and flexibility to the Tiger signifier through the variation, appropriation and producing signifier. Moreover, even to the same Tiger, there were various meanings and most of them were concentrated in the meanings as follows ; Beoksa(in Korean term is to drive away evil spirits) and Gilsang, which is the good omen of a luck. All these were based on the value of 'this world'. In conclusion, through this research, the concept of the Tiger as a apotheosis has lowered its statutes and being secularized.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.6 s.59
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• pp.883-895
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• 2005

Exaggeration is to express an object or a situation in an excessive way. As the desire for aesthetic expression grows greater today, we tended to focus on the exaggerative expression as a means to acquire other's attention and praise. Also people more actively express their own intention or opinion in an exaggerated manner. The purpose of this study is to identify the social and cultural functions of modern fashion via exaggerative expression, one of the formative characteristics, and its meaning. To do so, the exaggerative features of modern fashion have been analyzed, and the social and cultural meaning of those have been examined through the background of the times and aesthetic sense. The formative form in the exaggerative expression shown in the modern fashion was classified into a body priority type emphasizing woman's body contour, a body disregarded type shown oversized silhouette regardless of body contour and a body distorted type expressing free and diverse form in various shapes of asymmetry and imbalance. The symbolic meanings of those include the changing of the body consciousness and the notions of feminity, and the desire fur formative and playable expression. The exaggeration of the costume in history meant aesthetic value of the woman's body in the society led by men. However, the exaggerative expression shown in the modern fashion is a method to express more actively, as compared with the costume in the past.

• Korean Journal of Korean Medical Institute of Dermatology and Aesthetics
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.98-113
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• 2005

This paper provides comparison and analysis between brand images of Korean herbal cosmetics and general, imported cosmetic brands, focusing on product's symbolic and functional images. The objective is to evaluate brand images of Korean herbal cosmetics to suggest a powerful brand image strategy that will be different and competitive. Data collection was performed on 300 adult women who were over 20 years of age and lived in Seoul or KyongKi area. Analysis was carried out using SPSS version 11.5 and frequency analysis, T-Test and $X^2$ verification was also performed. Analysis results for brand images of Korean herbal cosmetics are as follows. First, satisfaction scale as a purchase feature for users of Korean herbal cosmetics were 'Normal' 51.5%, 'Satisfactory' 35.1%, 'Very Satisfactory' 8.2% and 'Unsatisfactory' 5.2%. Regarding improvements, 'Efficacy, Effect' was the highest with 46%. Second, 'SEOLHWASOO' and 'BAEKOKSENG' among Korean herbal cosmetic brands, 'IOPE' and 'ISA KNOX' among general cosmetic brands and 'LANCOME' and 'CHANEL' among imported cosmetic brands displayed high recognition. Third, the symbolic and functional images of Korean herbal cosmetic brands were seen to be better compared to their general and imported counterparts. Especially, product related features of Korean herbal cosmetic brands received a more positive response compared to imported brands, which suggests that with research and improvement regarding non-product related features, functional images of herbal brands may be appraised ahead of imported brands. Fourth, there is a significant difference in brand preference according to the satisfaction of groups who actually use herbal cosmetics and the purchasing attitudes of groups who do not. Therefore, an active relationship marketing strategy is required to maximize satisfaction and to elicit favorable attitudes. By developing functional native ingredients, constructing data that can prove its efficacy and effects, and appealing its unique, differentiated symbolic value together with Orientalism, herbal medicines will be able to take off to be acknowledged worldwide.

• Korean Association of Arts Management
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• no.56
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• pp.189-215
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• 2020

This study aims to understand the process of valuing contemporary artworks by young and emerging artists via online art platforms. This paper conceptualizes Bourdieu's theory of cultural capital, which theoretically guides us for conducting a case study of Saatchi Art. This article mainly collected data by interviewing seven Korean artists who were selected by our case with the supplement information carried out direct observation and document reviews. By analyzing the gathered data, the key finding of this research is that the selection of artists in Saatchi Art's curatorial program implicitly admits and guarantees the value of their artworks. By doing so, it contributes to building symbolic capital for the selected artists. This article also contends that such construction of the artists' symbolic capital results from the accumulated symbolic capitals of the founder and curator of the online platform. The theoretical contribution of this paper is to expand previous research on valuing artworks in the offline art world into the online one.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.46 no.4
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• pp.21-35
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• 2018

In recent years, there has been a tendency to reuse 'landscapes of memory,' including industrial heritages, modern cultural heritages, and post-industrial parks, as public spaces in many cities. Among the various types of landscapes, 'modern historic landscapes', which were formed in the 19th and 20th centuries, are landscapes where the debate between conservation and removal is most frequent, according to the change of evaluation and recognition of modern history. This study examines conflicts between conservation and removal around modern historic landscapes and explores the value judgment criteria and the process of formation of those landscapes, as highlighted in the case of the demolition controversy of the old Japanese general government building in Seoul, which was dismantled in 1995. First, this study reviews newspaper articles, television news and debate programs from 1980-1999 and some articles related to the controversy of the Japanese general government building. Then it draws the following six factors as the main issues of the demolition controversy of the building: symbolic location, discoveries and responses of new historical facts, reaction and intervention of a related country, financial conditions, function and usage of the landscape, changes of urban, historical and architectural policies. Based on these issues, this study examines the conflicts between symbolic values that play an important role in the formation of modern historic landscapes and determines conservation or removal, and the utility of functional values that solve the problems and respond to criticisms that arise in the process of forming the modern historic landscape. Especially, it is noted that the most important factor that makes the decision is the symbolic values, although the determination of the conservation or removal of modern historic landscapes has changed according to changes in historical perceptions of modern history. Today, the modern historic landscape is an important site for urban design, and still has historical issues to be agreed upon and addressed. Thi study has contemporary significance from the point that it divides the many values of modern historic landscapes into symbolic values and functional values, evaluates these, and reviews the background social context.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.184-203
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• 2002

This study considers the fashion as an expressive object of mental value system in order to understand muitivocal value groups. Because the external behavior aspects and internal values of muitivocal value groups are getting more ambiguous in these days. This purposes of this study are as follows; first, this paper examines diversely how these groups affect modern fashion through analysis multivocal value groups after 1990s, and makes clear that various social, cultural, and economical values are important factors for changing symbolic standard connected with fashion. Second, it aims at expanding the positive recognition of the conflicts that exist among various values, and aesthetical recognition that overcome the discrepancy and such conflicts. For this aim, this paper analyzes the social and cultural aspects, aesthetic taste, life style of such groups focusing on Dink, Yiffie, Yettie, Bobos. We examine these groups' characteristics and their effect on modern fashion by categorizing them into Snob Look, Vintage Fashion, Unbalance Fashion, and Caports Look. This paper conducts the previous literature review and the practical analysis on periodical publications and Internet websites concerning fashion. Consequently, this kind of study is useful for providing a theoretical background that would explain the multilateralism in fashion, with uncertain in useful and culture, and changing the obvious confusion to another dimension of order.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.10
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• pp.1629-1639
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to research the similarity and difference of color application in the culture of Korea and Japan. The subject of this research is the costume color of Changgeuk and Kabuki. This survey analyzes Munsell's 3 attributes(Hue, Value, Chroma), tone, and 3D color analysis by extracted color data. And representative color according to Obangsaek is proposed. The results of this study are as follows: 1. High chroma red in Kabuki costume is more used as symbolic color(passion and luxurious) in order to show character's personality than that in Changguek costume. 2. Low chroma YR color(no-dyeing color) in Changgeuk costume much more used because of Korean white robe preference and eco-friendly thinking. But high chroma yellow is restrictive color for symbolic color of emperor in Korea and Japan. 3. Blue is most frequently used in both costumes because blue is encouraging color by the theory of exponents of the five elements doctrine. 4. White in Korean Changguek costume is more used for white robe preference thinking, but black in Kabuki costume is much more used for symbol of power in Japan. The similarity of Korean and Japanese cultural color is to use much Obangsaek, less Ogansaek by the theory of exponents of the five elements doctrine, but the difference of Korean and Japanese cultural color is to use color differently according to preference thinking system.