• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권6호통권59호
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• pp.883-895
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• 2005

Exaggeration is to express an object or a situation in an excessive way. As the desire for aesthetic expression grows greater today, we tended to focus on the exaggerative expression as a means to acquire other's attention and praise. Also people more actively express their own intention or opinion in an exaggerated manner. The purpose of this study is to identify the social and cultural functions of modern fashion via exaggerative expression, one of the formative characteristics, and its meaning. To do so, the exaggerative features of modern fashion have been analyzed, and the social and cultural meaning of those have been examined through the background of the times and aesthetic sense. The formative form in the exaggerative expression shown in the modern fashion was classified into a body priority type emphasizing woman's body contour, a body disregarded type shown oversized silhouette regardless of body contour and a body distorted type expressing free and diverse form in various shapes of asymmetry and imbalance. The symbolic meanings of those include the changing of the body consciousness and the notions of feminity, and the desire fur formative and playable expression. The exaggeration of the costume in history meant aesthetic value of the woman's body in the society led by men. However, the exaggerative expression shown in the modern fashion is a method to express more actively, as compared with the costume in the past.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.705-725
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• 2015

A Beoseonbongip is a pouch that holds patterns for making Beoseons. This study aimed to identify the aesthetic and symbolic contents of the embroidery patterns by analyzing the kind, combination types, expression and arrangement types of patterns. In total, 140 Beoseonbongip artifacts, which were mostly made in the Joseon Dynasty, were quantitatively and qualitatively analyzed. The results indicated that about 83% of the total had flower patterns. Various kinds of embroidery patterns used for Beoseonbongips were newly identified. About 73% of the total had different kinds of patterns. Pattern combination types were identified by the kinds of patterns, the number of paired patterns, and the traditional painting styles used. The patterns of Beoseonbongips were expressed schematically more than realistically or abstractly. Beoseonbongips with different patterns on the four triangle tips of the front face and Beoseonbongips with the same/similar patterns on two opposite tips of the front face were observed more than the other types. On the back face, the embroidery patterns were symmetrically arranged, showing various division structures. It was inferred that wishes (e.g., marital harmony, fertility, good health and longevity, happiness, and wealth and fame) were expressed through the symbolic patterns embroidered on the Beoseonbongips. In terms of Korean traditional beauty, the union with nature, the harmony of yin and yang, symmetric balance, and neatness were also emphasized as a esthetic characteristics of Beoseonbongips.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.35-42
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to comprehensively re-interpret the garments that emphasize a phallus such as codpiece throughout history. Perspective to understand the codpiece is extremely limited in most studies, thus it could be refocused in historical perspectives, formative point of views, and from a psychological point of view from various angles. A literature study of research methods and case studies were combined in order to investigate the emphasis of phallus' appearing in costumes. The following results were obtained. First of all, in length, the form of emphasizing a phallus tended to be distorted as it was protruding. Secondly, in area and volume, the forms of the phallus were mostly exaggerated or expanded. For the last, it drew strong attention with particular detail to the phallus, such as ribbons and swordbelts. The symbolic meaning of various garments with which emphasized a phallus has changed in social context through history. Doubtlessly, it represents patriarchal ideology. Also, it expresses dramatic eroticism due to the theory of immodesty. However, the meaning of it becomes more decentralized through reinterpretation of ideal male suits for modern society and turns into a representational tool of sub-culture. In addition, it could broaden out the new way of fashion expression.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.259-276
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• 2001

Hitchcock, "a master of the thriller" "leading figure of thriller", was famous for his work style. He never starts filming until completing a perfect conception in his mind before shooting. He started filming after getting a perfect filming plan adding a picture even one detailed shot picture. Also the movie costumes was not an exception in his movie. He put more main object to express a symbolic meanings by recreating movie costumes which were fit to drama′s subject than function which spoke for contemporary popularity also he guides actors to put on the movie costumes examined previously to shape a definite visual character in that works. This research intends not only to look into symbolic and expressive means of dresses through the movie costumes on thriller appeared in Hitchcock′s movie, but also the comprehension width by grasping importance of the movie-costume and dress image in the movie. Hitchock made about 55 movies, mostly thriller movies, from Number 13(1922) n unfinished work to family plot(1976) ones posthumous work. This research examined his the second half of term works(after 1950) such s Rear Window(1954), Vertigo(1958), Psycho(1960), Torn Curtain(19660, Topaz(1969) and Frenzy(1972) which are generally familiar to the public. In conclusion, we can find that the thriller movie costumes as well s the other movie and appeared a character of the film′s characters, social rank, economic level, personality. But expecially, a costume of Hitchcock′s thriller movie can be contained a characteristic factor of a kind of five.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.206-219
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to design the ideal student uniform for improving the university image which is related to ideal PR (Public Relations). The results of this study were as follows: Firstly, as for the matter of UIP(University Identity Program), the uniform must transfer the university image. Using the UIP symbol color, the uniform is harmonious with university environment, and should be properly expressed visual image of the university. Secondly, the symbol which expressed the tradition and the spirit of the university was the very important factor to transfer its unique university identity and image of the university in the uniform design. The symbol which comes from the character or textile prints of the university symbolic flower or animals should transfer the consistent and unique design of university identity. Thirdly, the uniform has to be designed considering of the fashion trend as well as the essential factors for the uniform, considering such as functional, beautiful, symbolic aspects. In designing the uniform, fashion trend should be considered to combine the students and the uniform users to be one. As mentioned above, the uniform design which is suggested on this study should be helpful for the improvement of the university status and the reinforcement of the university PR.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.404-418
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• 2002

The pattern of a dance had changed and made a progress delicately according to the change of the myth, religion, and civilization. One genre which had experienced the change for the dance is a mask dance. This dance started from wishes to adore spirit or god with imitated masks of native animals and desire to identify with nature. After the middle ages, it finally became to approach to the artistic state. In that dance, there was used a role of the head of the family which was strongly adapted to the shape of the mask as performing casts After studying symbolic characteristics of the mask dancing, we could conclude these as fol1ows.: First, Masks symbolized the totemism that adores spirit or god. This kind of whole masks were consistently used. Second, Mask was worn for expressing a dancer's cast well. This function of performing cast was in the primitive ages. However at the age which was characterized as the age of the art, the expression of using a mask became various. Third, Mask was mostly related to the head of the family and appeared with the desire to be others not themselves. Since the middle ages, this tendency continued to the modern dance. Now we can see this type at the carnival. The mask was not only an effective means of dance but also an expression of totemism, performing cast, and the head of the family. Therefore it contributed to the growth of the dance a lot.

• 한국주거학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국주거학회 2009년 춘계학술발표대회 논문집
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• pp.321-326
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• 2009

For building an urban image, various elements such as symbolic building, ethnic characteristics, historical background, natural environment, and diverse cultural elements can influence on it. Many cities in developed countries are showing their unique urban image reflecting their own culture, history, and aesthetic tastes. Especially color, one of the major design elements, has greater impact than other visual factors to form an urban characteristic. Despite the long history and cultural background, Seoul as a capital city of Korea does not show an unique city image with the perspective of color. Recently, Seoul has been designated as '2010 World Design Capital' and implements various urban design projects. As a leading city of design, Seoul is trying to make its urban identity through the own symbolic environment color. The purpose of this study is to find an environmental color scheme for developing a desirable urban design through several cases of foreign countries. For the purpose, Paris, London, Amsterdam, and Tokyo were selected as case cities. Each of the cities showed their own cultural characteristics and made their unique urban image by appropriate usage of their natural environment, symbolic building, emblem of country, and so on. We need to consider these successful cases to build up the image of Seoul.

• 복식
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• 제54권6호
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• pp.25-40
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• 2004

The rainbow has been considered as a perfect representative of color harmony in nature. In this study rainbow's colors include seven spectral colors and changeable colors according to observational angle. This study performed a bibliographical inquiry into rainbow colors and the survey research for classification of rainbow color images in fashion design. First, a bibliographical inquiry includes the definition of rainbow colors, physical formation principles of the rainbow, and its aesthetical attributes and symbolism. Second, this survey classifies rainbow color images in fashion design. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The rainbow was the religious and symbolic object before 17th century, and after that period, the rainbow became an aesthetical object. The main symbolic meanings are similar in eastern and western culture: temporary bridge between two world, divine nature, hope/beauty/richness, war/ death/flood/drought. 2. This survey shows that 6 main factors of rainbow color images in fashion design are 'vigorous', 'colorful'. 'fairy', 'fresh', 'mysterious', 'brilliant'. Rainbow color image in fashion design shows past and futuristic image at the same time. The purpose of this study is to systematized the images theoretical bases which are applied to color expression and of rainbow colors and to find out the development about rainbow theme by designers.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.203-215
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• 1995

The funning process in the symbolism of dress can be approached by the semiotics of C. S. Pierce. According to Pearce\ulcorners theory, symbiosis consists of sign, its object, and interpret ant. Especially Pierce classifies the sign into three categories; icon, index, and symbol. The icon is based on the similarity in properties and forms, and the index is based on the actual connection with their objects, while the symbol is based on the association of interpret ant. This classification method can be considered as a theoretical base for symbol of ritual dress. On the other hand, it was discussed the analyzing method of the concept of dress same (symbolic element) by introducing the isolate concept of structuralism for explaining how the symbol reveals itself. So it is discussed the several concepts of structuralism; the concept of relation syntagmatique and relation paradigmatique, the relation binaries, and the units. It would be also necessary to consider dimension of context in addition to dimension of dress itself for the dimension of total symbolic elements of ritual dress. It is proposed that the above developed dress symbol elements should be used for under\ulcornerstanding the society or culture that includes the elements by introducing the symbolic anthropology such as V. Turner's three dimensions of symbol.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권1호
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• pp.127-138
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• 2009

This study is about the analysis on symbolic meaning and kunstwollen of Issey Miyake's art works which is influenced by various external factors such as social and cultural background, nationality and philosophy. Especially, this research focused on 'Pleats Please Issey Miyake' and 'A Piece of Cloth' which are the core of his works. The most important concept of Issey Miyake's works is the relationship of human body and a piece of cloth. Miyake's clothes has provided the time and the space where inspires the vitality into wearer. He accomplishes the most perfect beauty through incomplete beauty of cloth. Miyake wants to express the emotion of the human being through his clothes and tries to make special code between creator, wearer and viewer. Fashion is accomplished in connection with human body, not exists just as 'clothes'. Fashion has valued as an art which expresses the ideology and the sentiment of human being most directly. Issey Miyake who has tried to express human life and emotion has promoted fashion as an important part of art. Miyake is accepting and delivering the history and culture, expressing and communicating empathy, and combining the different fields harmoniously.