• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.275-287
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• 2018

In recent years, research on the development of eco-friendly synthetic suede based on water-dispersed polyurethane resin and non-fluorine water repellent has been conducted. Synthetic suede has a problem that the fastness to dyeing is greatly lowered after the water-repellent processing at a high temperature of $160^{\circ}C$ because the polyester is dyed with a disperse dye. Therefore, in this study, silica was added to water-dispersed polyurethane resin to improve dye fastness. To distribute the $PUD-SiO_2$ mixture evenly in the water-dispersed polyurethane resin, sufficient stirring was done for a period of time. When the $PUD-SiO_2$ mixture(PUD 1-5%) is applied to the substrate, it is confirmed through SEM that the mixture is uniformly applied without particle condensation. The results showed that silica with a diameter of 4~12nm and BET of $200{\sim}380g/m^2$ had the ability to improve dispersibility and fastness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.309-315
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• 2013

This study examines the difference of surface properties according to napping characteristic of artificial suedes, measuring surface structure observation, the contact/non-contact method roughness, warm-cool feeling of touch, and subjective hand evaluation. Surface and cross-section observations showed a discernible difference in fineness, curl, length, mount of napping, and covering power of base fabric. The surface properties of artificial suede evaluated by KES-FB4 showed that the shorter napping length the more smooth surface and the roughness increased reciprocally with friction resistance and surface contour when the nap length reaches a high level. The surface roughness measuring system applied a laser displacement sensor by a non-contact method to assess napping characteristic and the base fabric and napping height. Surface roughness decreased when napping was uniformly covered with base fabric; however, the surface roughness increased specifically with the uneven covering power of the base fabric. For qmax of the suedes, those that had short and smaller amounts of napping increased; however, the napping of length and amount at some stage generated a low qmax value. The warm sensation in all suedes were strongly perceived, but the cool sensation of the perception was lower in the subjective evaluation. Smoothness and softness were perceived when the suede has a long and large amount napping; however, smoothness and hardness were perceived when the suede was short and with the uneven covering power.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.35-40
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• 1981

This study aims at finding appropriate adhesive conditions with special regard the material of 'fusible padding cloth inter ling' was frequently used for leather. As for leather material, pig suede, sheep suede were selected and drum dyed, cow split, napa have also been used. Mixed spinning non-woven fabric (polyester $50\%$, nylon $50\%$) were used as for padding cloth. Experimental appearance has been observed under the following adhesive conditions: Temperature of press were devided four levers; $120^{\circ}C$, $130^{\circ}C$, $140^{\circ}C$, $150^{\circ}C$, respectively. Adhesive time has been limited 5, 10, 15 second each. And the pressure has been conditioned as $0.2kg/cm^2$ continuously. After all this experiment, it was discovered that the material which had long contact with low temperature conditions has similar adhesive power to material that has short contact with high temperature conditions. There is a great difference according to the leather's dying process, the finishing method of the cloth, and the part of leather surface. The best condition for suede are $140^{\circ}C$, $150^{\circ}C$, at 10 seconds. and for D/D, NAPA, $130^{\circ}C$, at 10 seconds. Although the conditions of $150^{\circ}C$, at 15 seconds was possible for split, the process time can be shortened according to the increase of temperature.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2009.03a
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• pp.100-101
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• 2009

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2006.11a
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• pp.185-188
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• 2006

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.51-56
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• 1998

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2007.11a
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• pp.105-106
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• 2007

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.51-74
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• 2015

The purpose of this exploratory research is to study Cashin's fashion philosophy and to draw her design characteristics through analysis of her work. As a result of this research, 76 garment pieces were selected from the 180 Bonnie Cashin collections at the University of Cincinnati to document and evaluate. The final selection includes: sixteen jackets, fifteen skirts, five pants, five tops, seven dresses, twenty five coats, and three capes. Bonnie Cashin specialized in practical and functional; yet innovative designs such as leather trimmed tweed Jackets/coats, canvas raincoats, suede leather coats, and ponchos. Her trademark elements include toggle closures, oversized pockets, her Noh coats, tweed suits, canvas raincoats, fringed suede dresses, funnel neck pullovers, jersey dresses, and ponchos. She emphasized function and comfort and she believed that a good design must also be practical. The examination of these 76 pieces from the University of Cincinnati's private Bonnie Cashin Collection brings to light Bonnie Cashin's creative design and what she represented in the development of American fashion design in the $20^{th}$ century.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.202-210
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• 2017

In recent years, the water-based ink have been widely used in various industrial applications due to environmental problems. Dispersibility of the pigment for applications of the water-based ink is the one of the most important technical factors to produce uniform color products. Thus, in this study, the three-roll mill process was used to improve the dispersion of the water-based ink. The results indicated that the three-roll mill reduced the size of pigment particles in the ink more than 50%. In addition, the dispersant showed an important role to maintain the dispersion stability of the pigment in the water-based ink over 120 hours. We also confirmed the optimum contents of the ink stock solution, drying temperature and drying time by the colorimeter and colorfastness tests on produced PET synthetic suedes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.79-89
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• 2017

Sensory attributes and preferences that contribute to consumer satisfaction with artificial leather were measured by subjective evaluation, and subjective hand and preferences were analyzed in relation to its use. Using tactile and visual senses, 50 experts in fashion and textile industry evaluated leathers classified into two categories, suede and polyurethane coated, according to different manufacturing methods. They answered questions on subjective hand and preferences of different artificial leathers of various fashion items (jackets, purses, bags, shoes, boots, furniture, etc.), using specific adjectives to describe the hand properties. As a result, it was found that the subjective hand properties of artificial leathers were related to 'Thickness', 'Fullness/softness', 'Surface contour', 'Stickiness', and 'Elasticity'. The leather type from different manufacturing methods influenced their perceived hand and preferences relating to use. By use, different hands were preferred. The preferences for jackets and furniture of suede type leathers were related to their surface properties, whereas the preferences for items of the other type of leathers were associated with their resilience. On the other hand, in the case of polyurethane coated leathers, the preferences for jackets were significantly affected by their thickness, while those for the other items were influenced by their resilience and surface properties.