• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.7
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• pp.69-88
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to delve into the identity of the New-Hanbok style in modern fashion, and to survey its formative characteristics and internal values from the perspective of vernacular design. Arguments can be summed up as follows. The study historically examines the changes in Hanbok and concludes that the social and cultural backgrounds and factors that caused the advent of the New Hanbok are (1) the change and expansion of the basic social, cultural, and popular perception toward the Korean image, (2) the rapid spread of a subculture centering on the younger generation, and (3) the voluntary and systematic activities of nonprofit clubs, communities and private organizations. This is the cycle of the spread of Hanbok, which shows the subcultural selection and development process of upward propagation. Furthermore, the public, in addition to holding fast to an independent attitude regarding their choices, also show that they tolerate diversity. As a perspective of analyzing the New Hanbok style, the study suggests the characteristics of the vernacular design perspective as (1) a spontaneous indigenous nature (2) living everydayness (3) and the subcultural-ness of the era. From such a perspective, the study examines the formative characteristics of the basic costume configuration of the New Hanbok style including jeogori, traditional Korean skirts, Cheollik one-pieces, and Trompe l'oeil one-pieces, and draws out the meanings contained in the New Hanbok style, which are (1) spontaneous indigenous nature and directivity toward tradition, (2) living everydayness and modernity, and (3) open subcultural-ness.

• Archives of design research
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• v.18 no.1 s.59
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• pp.233-244
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• 2005

Fashion is one of the characteristics which represents the comtemporary sociocultural signifiant. A style that a certain stream of fashion brings is not just limited in fragmentary tendencies and fads. That can be a code to communicate and function as a medium in itself. Music has been displaying it's power to fashion while fashion has been exercising it's influence over the music. There is an inseparable relationship between music and fashion in terms of expressing our images of the world: fashion delivers them through visuality and music does it by sound. Both fashion and music are reflecting our society as well as they are influencing on sociocultural aspects generally. Whenever music has been changed new youth culture has been made and this culture has been expanded with forming some distinct fashion trends. The study focuses on identifying the relations between pop music and fashion styles which are occupying positions firmly on the bases of youth culture through analysing the relations between the fashion styles and music genres which are used in sub-culture groups to express their own identities and consciousness from a point of semiotics. In conclusion, subculture is the exit of their escaping from the compelling inconsistency cause by the condition of people's life and the way for them to solve through cultural sublimating for themselves. People come up with distinctive style of music and fashion to express their resistant signifie in their symbolic way. In addition, a particular music trend has much to do with a contemporary fashion style. In the relationship between music and fashion, there have been the subtle mechanism to boost and influence and some crucial similarity each other to signify inner values of the times. This study lets us realize that fashion is not only a popular style of clothes, hair, etc. at a particular time or place but also a medium to communicate and to guarantee polysemous identity by functioning as a flexible tool to exchange contemporary sociocultural meanings.

• Proceedings of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association Conference
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• autumn
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• pp.77-79
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• 2004

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.873-889
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• 2014

The goals of this study are to analyze how fashion professionals' attitudes toward Grunge style have changed since the 1990s and to compare aesthetic features of 1990s Grunge style and the style since 2000. By searching Vogue and Women's Wear Daily articles from 1992 to 2014 according to the keyword "Grunge", three collections from the 1990s and 59 collections since 2000 were selected for analysis. Although Grunge collections of the 1990s were harshly criticized by critics and retailers as ugly, the more recent collections have been highly praised for both design and profitability. The common aesthetic features of Grunge style in the 1990s and beyond include loose silhouettes, mix-and-match layerings, plaid patterns, floral prints, and striped patterns. However, Grunge style since 2000 has new features such as ornate fabrics, handcrafted details, a formal and dressy look, and faux plaid flannel shirts in chiffon or organza. These features give the style a more luxurious, feminine, and refined appearance. The results of this study indicate that Grunge style of the 1990s changed high fashion beauty standards and today's designers and consumers prefer to mix various styles to create new ones. They typically do not consider the original spirit or identities of the varied styles.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.46-54
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• 2004

In this paper, It is examined the patterns of fashion style in the history of subcultural clothing from 1930s to 1960s, focusing on the way each generation resisted the main stream through its styles. The subcultural styles examined and classified in this study are mainly British and American, with a few European and Western Indian styles included. This study understands subcultural style as a way of deviate or resistant expression within a society. The patterns of subcultural styles presented in this study are based on their form of resistance, and they are classified as follows: The pattern is revision, which tries to revise and change the given form by adding new elements. There are two kinds of revision, one is dressing up, which dresses for success, and the other is minimal dressing. Zoot, caribbean, western, teddy boy, rockabilly style are included here. As minimal dressing, there are hipster, beatnik, modernist, mod, rude boy style. In conclusion, it can be said that subcultural style puts the foremost importance on individual freedom. The new and significant development can be found in the fact that subcultural style emerges as a dominating force in our culture. This implies that the energy of a subculture is essential as a formative force of a fashion world.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.859-870
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to investigate the fashion reflecting the aesthetic consciousness of a generation and age spirit and to study Mods-Look aesthetically by analyzing how Mods-Look expressed on the fashion magazines(Collezioni Donna) from 2001 to 2006 developed into a new form. 1960's Mods-Look appeared in the well known collections such as New York, Paris, Milan in the form of crossover or with a changed style. Especially after 2000's, in addition to the British fashion, even a new word Mods Story was created to prominently express the free style of the Mods spirit. The expressive characteristics represent 1) minimal style, 2) sports casual style, 3) vintage style, 4) dandy & androgynous style. In conclusion, Mods-Look in 21st fashion used to be street fashion started from minority subculture after world war II, but now suit of that time, geometrical pattern and sensibility are becoming design sources for the various fashion market from high fashion to sports look. Therefore, as young people are becoming the center of society in new millenium, sensibility of that time will be reinterpreted to design and Mods-Look will not be limited to subculture but reflected in design development fulfilling people's taste and new future fashion sense by compromising the past and new trend.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.404-415
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• 2003

The main purpose of this exploratory research was to examine the characteristics of consumers who patronize natural-dyed clothes and their perceptions regarding natural-dyed clothes. Thirty three participants who have worn natural-dyed clothes were interviewed for the study. They were asked about the styles and price of natural-dyed clothes they owned, their evaluation on them, and the lifestyles of themselves. Existence of subculture among the interviewes and its characteristics were also probed. The results indicated that natural-dyed clothes are relatively high-priced, mostly of modified hanbok style, and became popular in recent years. Interviewees frequently mentioned uniqueness and comfort as the main benefits of natural-dyed clothes, and expressed dissatisfaction regarding color fastness, easy care and problem of coordination. The consumers of natural-dyed clothes appeared to have strong preferences for environment conservation and Korean traditional culture. They also seemed to form a subcultural group who have commonality in their involvement in Korean cultural activities, mainly tea ceremony.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.581-588
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• 1997

Since 1950 postmodernism shows strong influences in literature, architektuTe, art, clothing and other social and cultural fields. It's main conceptswere individual, pluralistic, unconven- tional and deconstruction of social values. The purpose of thisstudy was to review the influence of postmodernism to German clothing for youth. To achieve this purpose, raga- zinesfor youth ("BKAVO") from 1959 to 1994 surveyed including a number of interviews. The characterizations of postmodernism in fashion are as follows: Sport Clothing has an effect on Oaily Clothing. Exotic phenomenon from south america, africa, asia shows strong in fashion. Subculture(Rocker, Hippie, Punker) is as anti-culture sylnbolically expressed in young fashion which is diffrent from mother-fashion. This appeard in Germany in the 50s, 60san6 70s. However, sub-culture-look in the 80s and 90s is presented only in outer style. It does'nt show any symbolic meanings. "Bricolage" ("mix and match") -concept was appeard in 60s and 70s only in fashion of subculture group. This concept generalized in standard fashion in 80s and 90s.andard fashion in 80s and 90s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.623-634
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to explore the culture of clothing of subgroups among adolescents by residence. In this research informants were selected by selective sampling and ethnographic methods such as field work depth interviews and open-ended descriptions were employed to interpret their culture of clothing. The results were followed. First our adolescents enjoyed the popular song as leisure and these popular culture was their inspiration source of style. Second adolescents were grouping the Kang-Bouk and the adolescents group preferred the style of popular singers and the Kang-Nam adolescents group preferred the musical competence of singers and specific type particularly Hip-Hop style. And in acception pattern of fashion style the Kang-Bouk groups accepted the recent fashion style continuously and wanted to be striking while the Kang-Nam groups accepted the various Hip-Hop styles and sought to comfort and suitability of that style. Third to consider the connotations of marketing the Kan-Bouk groups shopped on the street perceived as fashionable among peer groups and sought to the lower price but the Kang-Nam groups used the shops selling their original ip-Hop style without regard to the price and sites. Although there existed a two years' difference between the first and the second research(1996-1998) subgroups among adolescents according to the residence have had their own culture of clothing constantly. And a segmentation tendency by clothing behavior within the same adolescent generation is revealed more visibly.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.52-68
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to be inquired inner contemplation of the tattoo expressed in the modern costumes. For this study, related documentaries and pictures or photos were analyzed in terms of the theretical background for the history of tattoo, the relation between tattoo and the modern western costumes. The primary source of pictures or photos are Vogue, Collections, Collezioni, Harper\`s Bazaar, Modain, Model et Mode etc. The human\`s needs of body decoration had constantly pursued on the body and costumes from the first until lately. Especially in the recents, as the tattoo is implicated a dynamic and charming method of all kinds of body decoration, it\`s used a motive of modern western costumes. The original tattoo means a picture, word etc. that was put permanently onto their skin using a needle and coloring matter. But, these days tattoo is an expression of street style for something new in the subculture. The results were as a follows : The inner meaning of tattoo represented in the modern costumes was classified into two categories. First, the tattooing was a very important factor to complete fashion design through the history of modern costumes, and also the elaborate tattoo of the body was displayed unrestricted formativeness as the skinhead\`s tattoo, raceless\`s ambiguity of street style and artistic decoration, because that can be faded easily. Second, Tattoo Look was expressed as tattoo prints of the see-through, elastic textiles in the modern costumes. That is, the tattoo enhanced the effect of dramatic atmosphere other formative arts as well as the modern costumes by Tattoo Look. Similarity, Tattoo Look could be interpreted as the change of the aesthetic consciousness by the influence of the subculture. Accordingly, in the end of a this century, many experimental designers had applied tattoo to modern costumes. So this study will stand as an important clue to foresee the future costume\`s style and change.