• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.48-57
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• 2013

This study was performed to quantitatively and qualitatively estimate the effect of keratin essence on hair protection against physicochemical damage. Damaged hairs were obtained from an early thirty woman who dyed her hair two times and did digital permanent treatment of her hair two times. The damaged hairs were divided into four experimental groups, which are the control hair (CH) group without additional beauty treatment, the damaged hair (DH) group by additional dyeing treatment, basic essence-treated hair (BEH) group, and keratin essence-treated hair (KEH) groups according to the research goal. The protection effect of keratin essence against the physicochemical damage was quantitatively compared by difference of chrominance measured using a color difference meter and qualitatively compared by difference of outer morphological structure images pictured using scanning electron microscopy (SEM). The brightness and yellowish blue color of KEH were relatively lower but the reddish blue color was relatively higher than other groups of test hairs. Cuticle structure of the previously DH was irregularly deformed and more strongly deformed or partially broken by additional dyeing treatment. On the other hand, the gaps between cuticle scales of the DH were reformed by treatment with basic essence and reformed and filled by treatment with keratin essence in comparison with the DH group. Conclusively, the keratin essence was effective to protect hair structure against the structural damage induced by the dyeing-treatment, by which the coloring efficiency is thought to be improved.

• Journal of Distribution Research
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.101-122
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• 2010

In this study, it is explored whether positive and negative emotions affected hedonic and utilitarian values experienced while shopping apparel in the Internet. In addition, the effect of hedonic and utilitarian shopping values on store approach behaviors was explored. For this study, Babin and Attaway's research model that was used for off-line shopping malls was adopted to investigate the relationships among research variables. Data obtained through experiments with 278 female college students were submitted for an analysis. Exploratory and confirmatory factor analysis and structural equation modeling with AMOS 6.0 were used to analyze data. Based on the model test, negative emotions negatively affected hedonic and utilitarian shopping value perception while positive emotions positively affected hedonic and utilitarian shopping value perception for the Internet apparel shopping site. Hedonic and utilitarian shopping values positively influenced attitude toward the Internet shopping site while only utilitarian shopping value affected revisiting Internet apparel shopping site. Managerial and academic implications were generated based on results.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.343-355
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• 2013

E-reviews, electronic reviews, are generally perceived as trustworthy and credible by the consumers, because it is based on the experiences of other consumers who are independent of the marketers. Therefore, consumers may rely more on the review information as an important cue than direct experience or advertising. This paper explored the structural equation model to investigate the relationships among search motives of e-reviews, attributes of e-review, trust, and purchase intention for cosmetics. A self-questionnaire was developed based on previous researches. Data were collected from 300 female university students experienced purchasing cosmetics at the Internet and were analyzed by AMOS 20.0. Results showed that e-review attributes consisted of three factors: expertise/visuality, quality/functionality and advertising/design. Utilitarian and hedonic search motives were significantly related to expertise/ visuality attributes of e-review and then influenced the purchase intention for cosmetics, mediated by the trust of e-review. However, quality/functionality attributes related by utilitarian motive did not have a significant effect to trust of e-review and purchase intention for cosmetics. Regardless of search motives and trust of e-review, advertising/design attributes of e-review directly related to purchase intention of cosmetics. As predicted, the trust of e-review was an important mediated variable to stimulate the purchase intention of cosmetics at internet. The implications of findings for research and practice are discussed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.161-176
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• 2007

The objectives of this study are to select and analyze unpublished wedding dresses in the 19th century, to investigate the design characteristics and making techniques of Victorian wedding dresses, and to examine the correlation between the wedding dress style and the fashion style in those days and the influence of the wedding dress style on contemporary's styles. The materials of this study were 9 wedding dresses owned by the Historical Costume and Textile Collection at the University of Connecticut in USA. The dresses were made during the mid and late Victorian Age. As for silhouette, the bustle style was popular in the 1870s and 1880s, and the hourglass style in the 1890s, and different from contemporary dresses there were no big differences in structural pattern and details between ordinary dresses and wedding dresses. In addition, colored wedding dresses were used until the mid and late Victorian Age, but since the wedding ceremony of Queen Victoria in 1840, white wedding dress was widely accepted and settled as the tradition of today's wedding dresses. While the Western dress style had been basically a one piece style, there appeared simple two piece designs in which the upper garment was separated from the lower one, from the mid Victorian Age. This is considered the reflection of those days' pragmatic social trend in dress style. It seems around 1875 when asymmetric design was first introduced in the Western dress style, which had been mostly symmetric. The asymmetric style that pursued atypical beauty, though not common during the late Victorian Age, shows a change in the typical Western dress style. With regard to dress making techniques, sewing machines were distributed widely during the early Victorian Age but they were not used in all parts of dress. Most of details and trimming works were done manually and some parts were attached and detached by hand sewing. In addition, not like today, there were no generalized rules of making such as the form of closings and composition.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.881-894
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• 2015

The silver generation have clothing style of optimal daily life comparing than young generation because they do not participate a specific sport event but daily- life exercise. As the human body ages, the figure of the silver generation shows different body shape because upper body changes to curved figure including the belly and waist part. Therefore, clothing characteristics for the silver generation should be considered with proper function, design and textiles to optimize body movement. This study investigated various exercise types according to motion analysis of the silver generation in order to develop the design of the active T-shirts reflecting the structural properties and providing the optimum exercise circumstance. The results to consider design needs are as followed; As the T-shirts design for the flexible exercise which required frequent movement of upper body such as bending and waist twisting during body stretching, a stretch fabric applied to the waist part considering T-shirts allowance and length to make extreme elongation and support for well-fitting appearance of the T-shirts. As the T-shirts design for the instantaneous reactionary exercise, high elastic four-way stretch fabric is applied to the part of arm hole to optimize skeletal and muscle movement for entire body and arm work. As the T-shirts design for the endurance exercise such as climbing, cycling, and walking, the shoulder line of the back part has cutting line allowance to make optimum movement of the upper body but no change of the waist part.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.17-26
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• 2019

This research aims to obtain useful data on the development of compression garment products with high-stretch knitted materials. Using nylon SCY, four specimens were knitted. Then, appearance (width, length, weight, thickness), stretch property (stretch, recovery) and clothing pressure were measured and their interrelation was analyzed. In the comparison of appearance features, yarn floating caused shrinkage in both course and wale directions of the specimens. Yarn overlapping by tucking caused a release in the course direction and shrinkage in the wale direction. Also, structural change was affected by the weight and thickness change of the knitted fabric. In the analysis of fabric stretch, yarn floating reduced the extension in course direction and increased that in wale direction of the knitted fabric. However, yarn overlapping reduced the elongation in both directions. In the analysis of recovery, yarn floating and overlapping raised fabric recovery in both directions, and tuck structure was superior to float in recovery. In the analysis of clothing pressure, 'Plain-Float' structured fabrics showed a higher clothing pressure than 'Plain' and the clothing pressure value of 'Plain-Tuck' was lower than that of 'Plain'. As for the correlation between fabric appearance, stretch property, and clothing pressure, the appearance change in course direction had a major influence on the clothing pressure. The shrinkage of appearance led to a decrease in stretch and an increase in clothing pressure.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.1-15
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to address marketing strategies for the brand extension of university-licensed merchandise by investigating influences on intent to purchase a new university-licensed merchandise line, tartan. A survey questionnaire was developed and administered online to the major target market for university-licensed merchandise. Four hundred and fifty students and alumni from a US Midwestern university completed the survey. Respondents were asked to answer questions on university identification, perceived university prestige, perceived value of the university-licensed merchandise, intent to purchase a brand extension in university-licensed merchandise, and demographics. It was hypothesized that university identification (H1) and perceived university prestige (H2) are positively related to the perceived value of the university-licensed merchandise and that perceived value of the university-licensed merchandise is positively related to intent to purchase a brand extension in university-licensed merchandise (H3). The difference between students and alumni was also tested. Consumers with high university identification and high perceived university prestige highly valued the university-licensed merchandise. Consumers who perceived a high value of the current university-licensed merchandise displayed a strong intent to purchase a brand extension in university-licensed merchandise. There was no structural difference between the two groups. The study builds on existing research on the influences of attitudes toward the university and university-licensed merchandise on purchasing university-licensed merchandise, specifically investigating intent to purchase a brand extension in university-licensed merchandise. This study also extends previous brand-extension research into university-licensed merchandise.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.10
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• pp.1-15
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• 2010

A Korean knot is one of the ornamental elements that our ancestors used intimately in their daily lives, and the diverse forms and structural features of the Korean knot have sufficient creative and aesthetic value for it to be recognized as one of beautiful products that was relished by individuals of the times. Starting from two strands, Korean knots make unique forms as they are overlapped or plaited, crossing each other in many ways. The forms of Korean knots were given names such as "nabi maedeup"(butterfly knots) and "gukwa maedeup" (chrysanthemum knots), in reference to things in the surrounding environment that were perceived as being similar in their appearance. It is considered that with their unique structure, such Korean knots may provide a good motif for creative design. As well, it is believed that combining the traditional beauty of Korean knots with a contemporary sensibility will lead to the creation of truly forward-looking design. Against this backdrop, this study aims to inquire into and analyze the formative characteristics and aesthetics of Korean knots, with an eye to their use in future design. In addition, it aims to help to put such historical knotting practices into practical and functional use in the future, through a study of previous uses of historical knotting practices with a modern sensibility. It is thus expected that this work will contribute to the inheriting and development of traditional culture, and ultimately to enhancing the status of Korean design in the world.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.2
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• pp.68-87
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• 2017

The New Look, which Christian Dior presented in 1947, has been a source of inspiration for contemporary fashion designers, as well as designers for the House of Dior, and has a great influence on them. The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the aesthetic characteristics of Christian Dior's New Look and the New Look that Christian Dior House designers reinterpreted. The subject and the scope of this study were limited to Christian Dior and the New Look designed by Gianfranco $Ferr\acute{e}$, John Galliano, and Raf Simons who are regarded as worthy successors. The research method was a literature review on previous studies on Christian Dior and related literatures to examine the history of the House of Dior and the aesthetic characteristics of the New Look presented by Christian Dior. Then, an empirical study was conducted through the analysis of collection photographs from 1989 to 2016 that were gathered from the Mode et Mode and Hi Fashion, and websites (British Vogue, Firstview). The results of the study were as follows. First, the aesthetic characteristics of Christian Dior's New Look in 1947 used femininity to express an elegant and beautiful woman, structural property to render the contours of a woman's body, and innovation that changed the formal and gloomy social atmosphere in the post-war years. Second, the aesthetic characteristics of the New Look by Christian Dior were compared with those of the New Look made by designers for the House of Dior. The elegant femininity of Dior can be seen as gorgeous femininity, and sensual femininity, minimalistic femininity, structurality is represented by the spatial structurality of Dior and $Ferr\acute{e}$, the organic structure of Galliano, and the orthodox structure of Simons. Moreover, Dior's retro innovativeness appeared to be $Ferr\acute{e}^{\prime}s$ androgyny innovation, Galliano's deconstructive innovation, and Simons' romantic futuristic innovation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.299-303
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• 2003

Some of historical textiles were analyzed to identify the imprinted textures on the metal remains of Haengyeup(a horse strap pendant) and Doja (a knife), which were excavated in the ruins of Hwangsung-dong, Kyungju city in the fifth century and textiles imprinted on the human bones that were excavated in the Pungnae 4th Area, Namyangju county in the sixteenth century. The results analyzed arc as follows ; It was confirmed that the imprinted textures of Haengyeup and Doja are white ramie since the structural characteristics of cellulosic bast fibers, partially projected long oval cross sections with large lumens and the imprinted textures of human bones are silk fabrics since the triangular cross sections of fibroin is showed. All of the textiles were designed in plain weaves. In the case of weaving yarns, the warp threads were thicker than the weft threads, that is, the imprinted textures of Haengyeup were measured by 1.35 mm for warp and 1.21 mm for weft, and the Doja by 1.16mm for warp and 1.11 mm for weft. In connection with the direction of the yarn twist, the Z-twist were observed in the imprinted textures of human bones, whereas it presented the S-twist in the case of Haengyeup and Doja. The warp yarns were mostly harder twisted than the weft yarns on the amounts of twist, that is, it was observed that the case of Haengyeup were amounted to 0.33 twists per centimeter for warp yarns and 0.25 twists per centimeter for weft yarns. Also it was showed 0.32 twists per centimeter for warp yarns and 0.26 twists per centimeter in the case of the textures of human bones. On the fabric counts, it was showed that the finer the yarns the higher the densities since it were $4.3{\times}5.1$ threads per sqaure centimeters and $7.6{\times}7.1$ threads per sqaure centimeters each in the case of Haengyeup and Doja, whereas it was $18.2{\times}33.7$ threads per sqaure centimeters in the case of the textures of human bones.