• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.59-71
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was 1) to analyze the consumers' preference on the recent trend in men's wear according to their lifestyle and 2) to suggest a suitable direction for men's wear planning based on the lifestyle analysis. A survey was applied to obtain the data set responded from 310 male subjects who were aged between thirties and fourties. The main results of this study are summarized as follows: 1) Five types of recent fashion trends were identified through a qualitative analysis on the recent men's wear trend, which were 'Modern classic casual', 'Retro traditional casual', 'Authentic/Ethnic casual', 'Urban dandy street casual' and the 'Refined sportive casual'. 2) The three types of the respondents' lifestyle were identified in this research and named as 'pursuing sense', 'pursuing tradition' and 'conservative indifference'. Examining the preference on fashion trends according to subjects' lifestyle and etc., the preference level of the 'pursuing sense' group on trend was, in general, higher than that of the two other lifestyle groups. The most preferred trend style of 'pursuing sense' group was the 'Modern Classic'. Finally, a suitable direction for men's wear planning was suggested on the result of analysis in this research.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.55-72
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is for consideration of the flapper fashion (1924-1928) in Jazz Age (1919-1929) of America and the influences of it on modern fashion. This study is started from the latest fashion trend which is pursuing it's inspiration into the Jazz Age, the 20s. The etimology of 'flapper' was based on mines is 'flap' such as 'flutter of skirt hemline', 'hands', 'arms', 'wings' and a slang which was applied to young women from 1830. In 20th century it has meant not only new American women but also their fashion and attitude. The designs of flapper fashion were expressed by simplicity, functionality, nudity and rhythm. Simplicity was the best value of this time and the simple image was considered the smartest. Functionality was represented by straight boyish style and loose baggy silhouette that was related to free dome. Nudity was expressed by revealing of legs, arms, backs in shapes and see-through by materials. It was related to sexual attraction and point to youth. Rhythm of flapper fashion expressed optical effect of movement. Using of light material was deep related to freedom of flappers, speed, rhythmical Jazz and dancing. The influences of flapper fashion were giving an opportunity that changed fashion leader from high class to young popular group and simple design of flapper fashion effected to modernization and popularization of American apparel business. And it influenced American casual fashion which was known as brightness, youth and openhearted mood. So flapper fashion can be reganded as the starting point of the street fashion of the 20th century.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.947-959
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• 2009

This study aims to analyze contemporary women's sense of fashion aesthetic by looking into the design and trend of T-panties, which have now carved out a new niche in the world's 21st century female underwear markets. By this, I'd like to reassure readers of the importance of T-panties, which has only been recently recognized, and more generally suggests the future direction of prominent T-panty design development. First, western urban chic, Japanese minimalism and domestic modern feminine images all have common modern urban sense and simple designs. However, each image is not a simple image in itself. For example, in the case of western style they often seek to convey a sophisticated and stylish street sense, while Koreans add a more cute, lovely, and feminine touch. Second, western restrained eroticism, Japanese fetishism and domestic mono-bosom images all have a common interest in sex. They is something, however, which they all express this differently. In Japan, they prefer a stimulating image. In the West, however, this is restrained by controlling and limiting overt sexual elements, while in Korea, we seek to capture a more simple sensual beauty. Third, western couture luxury, Japanese orientalism and Korean utopia narcissism have classy images in common including splendid materials and decorations with embroidery. They all differ depending on their nationality. This study is baseds on the documents study. This study is baseds on the documents study.

• Archives of design research
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.5-14
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• 2004

The study addressed a direction that environmental facilities along avenues will make a progress via urban environment as well as location marketing. The space is specified the campus avenue, which is located in Jongro-gu at Seoul. With the emergence of digital information era, both people' life style and behaviors have been changing in many different ways. As the first approach to the direction, the historical study of the avenue is examined by focusing on the change. All possible related status such as location marketing strategy and various spatial characteristics, environment of the avenue and its facilities are investigated and users' characteristics are analyzed. Through these processes, a new direction and role of design are proposed and are believed to improve the avenue' image and to rediscover its own identity and to make the avenue alive as it used to be. The new proposed direction showed how to approach to design as well as to system of environmental facilities along avenues and in addition to highlighting continuous and synthetic plan. Furthermore, It is expected that both the efforts to improve the avenue' image based on its own cultural characteristic and to foster the cultural-commercialized facilities will contribute to the local residents' life standard and its economic status.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.253-266
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• 2019

Street fashion style expressing youth culture has become mainstream in the fashion field. Russian fashion designers who experienced the post-Soviet era in their youth have gained attention for the freshness of a youth inspiration. This study selected two representative young Russian fashion designers, Gosha Rubchinskiy and Tigran Avetisyan and analyzed their fashion works concerning characteristics of youth culture. Literature studies and case studies were conducted as research methods. The subject of the case studies were Gosha Rubchinskiy's fashion works from 2015 S/ S to 2018 F/W and Tigran Avetisyan's fashion works from the 2012 CSM Fashion Show to 2018 F/W. The results of the analysis are as follows. First, their fashion works express 'resistance' against the older generation and society. Second, we can also see the 'conformity' of the use to make a strong cohesion. Third, the fashion works symbolized an 'expression of individuality' of the youth. Fourth, the fashion works express an 'importance of practicality' related to the values of the young who prefer to high cost-effectiveness goods. Last, there is a 'remixed culture' in the Russian designer's works where a previously mixed culture mixes with others in creating a completely new one. This study analyzed the characteristics of a contemporary youth culture that influenced the world fashion market and contributed to understanding that the young generation is active in all aspects of society.

• Journal of Intelligence and Information Systems
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.1-19
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• 2018

Large amount of data is now available for research and business sectors to extract knowledge from it. This data can be in the form of unstructured data such as audio, text, and image data and can be analyzed by deep learning methodology. Deep learning is now widely used for various estimation, classification, and prediction problems. Especially, fashion business adopts deep learning techniques for apparel recognition, apparel search and retrieval engine, and automatic product recommendation. The core model of these applications is the image classification using Convolutional Neural Networks (CNN). CNN is made up of neurons which learn parameters such as weights while inputs come through and reach outputs. CNN has layer structure which is best suited for image classification as it is comprised of convolutional layer for generating feature maps, pooling layer for reducing the dimensionality of feature maps, and fully-connected layer for classifying the extracted features. However, most of the classification models have been trained using online product image, which is taken under controlled situation such as apparel image itself or professional model wearing apparel. This image may not be an effective way to train the classification model considering the situation when one might want to classify street fashion image or walking image, which is taken in uncontrolled situation and involves people's movement and unexpected pose. Therefore, we propose to train the model with runway apparel image dataset which captures mobility. This will allow the classification model to be trained with far more variable data and enhance the adaptation with diverse query image. To achieve both convergence and generalization of the model, we apply Transfer Learning on our training network. As Transfer Learning in CNN is composed of pre-training and fine-tuning stages, we divide the training step into two. First, we pre-train our architecture with large-scale dataset, ImageNet dataset, which consists of 1.2 million images with 1000 categories including animals, plants, activities, materials, instrumentations, scenes, and foods. We use GoogLeNet for our main architecture as it has achieved great accuracy with efficiency in ImageNet Large Scale Visual Recognition Challenge (ILSVRC). Second, we fine-tune the network with our own runway image dataset. For the runway image dataset, we could not find any previously and publicly made dataset, so we collect the dataset from Google Image Search attaining 2426 images of 32 major fashion brands including Anna Molinari, Balenciaga, Balmain, Brioni, Burberry, Celine, Chanel, Chloe, Christian Dior, Cividini, Dolce and Gabbana, Emilio Pucci, Ermenegildo, Fendi, Giuliana Teso, Gucci, Issey Miyake, Kenzo, Leonard, Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Max Mara, Missoni, Moschino, Ralph Lauren, Roberto Cavalli, Sonia Rykiel, Stella McCartney, Valentino, Versace, and Yve Saint Laurent. We perform 10-folded experiments to consider the random generation of training data, and our proposed model has achieved accuracy of 67.2% on final test. Our research suggests several advantages over previous related studies as to our best knowledge, there haven't been any previous studies which trained the network for apparel image classification based on runway image dataset. We suggest the idea of training model with image capturing all the possible postures, which is denoted as mobility, by using our own runway apparel image dataset. Moreover, by applying Transfer Learning and using checkpoint and parameters provided by Tensorflow Slim, we could save time spent on training the classification model as taking 6 minutes per experiment to train the classifier. This model can be used in many business applications where the query image can be runway image, product image, or street fashion image. To be specific, runway query image can be used for mobile application service during fashion week to facilitate brand search, street style query image can be classified during fashion editorial task to classify and label the brand or style, and website query image can be processed by e-commerce multi-complex service providing item information or recommending similar item.

• The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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• no.8
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• pp.59-87
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• 2009

This thesis started from the attempt to make it clear that 80's American artist Keith Haring(1958-1990) had conducted social intervention of criticism, resistance, and participation through his works, and so pursued public value. Haring of graffiti fame left popular and familiar cartoon style pictures on the street wall, the billboards, the posters and so on. Popular and playful works was explained as his unique characteristics, but Haring's creative way at the field has more value than just being grasped as artist's personal characteristics. Haring's work pieces became everyday art by joining with people's life, and are working as a social speaking place. So I think that these Haring's art works possess characteristics of 'the public sphere'. 'The Public Sphere' means that is independent and free from the government or partisan economic forces, so that is not connected with the interested relations, and that is the sphere of rational argumentation without 'disguise' or 'fabrication', and that is the sphere where general public can participate in and is inspected by them. The public sphere between the sphere of public authority such a nation and a market and the private sphere of free individual, it is mutually connected with them and works as the space forming public opinion. Private individuals communicate with this public sphere and perform a role of direct and indirect check, balance, and social criticism way off from power. Openness that should include the voice of not only leading power but also the socially weak such as citizens, women, homosexuals, minority races, and so on, and alienated class, is an index of the public characteristics. The public sphere is not working just with speech and mass media. Many artists as well as Haring open their mouth and act through an art at the center of society, and create another public sphere by an art. I understood that the real participatory and practical characteristics on the Haring's work is a phenomenon and current of a part of the art world including Haring. Such current started from 1960s is the in-depth effort to be connected with the life more closely, to communicate with people, and to improve problems of life. And it has pursued public value on the different way from the nation or public power. Artists have intervened in the society with strategic and positive ways in order to raise pushed-out value and sinked rights as the public agenda, and labored to accept the value of variety and difference at the society. The aspect of such social intervention is the notable features, findable on the Haring's works and process. Haring's works include art historical meanings and are expressed with familiar and plastic language, so they were able to communicate with various classes. And he secured various customers at the field and the street. This communicative and public approach factor raised the possibility much for his works to work as the public sphere. Haring presented critical and resistant speech toward society with his works based on this factor. He asserted his position and justice of gender identity as a sexual minority. And his such work continued to movement for alienated class and social week over his own rights. His speech and message on the wall painting, poster, T-shirts, billboard of the subway, and so on worked as a spectacle and pressed concern with social issues and consciousness shift. And he's been trying to protect and care people who is injured by HIV and drug and to realize social justice through social week protection. Haring's works planned to meet many people as much as possible performed its role of intervening in society through criticism, resistance, speech, and participation, and controlling and checking social issues. These things considered, Haring's works show his consciousness about public attributes of art, and obviously include public value seeking. And also we can find the meaning of such his work as that an art is working as the public sphere and shows the possibility to discuss and practice public issues.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.945-953
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• 2014

This study aims to develop protective pants to relieve impact from falls and to present basic data for the development. The survey results are as follows; First, 45% of the respondents were in their 60s and 55% of them were in their over 70s and older. Also, 64% of them have fallen once for the past year and 36% of them have fallen twice or more. The older they were, the more there were those who have fallen twice or more. This indicated the older people has experienced more fall accidents again after a initial fall accident. Second, as per accident situations, the survey showed that fall accidents happened the most in the winter and in the afternoon (12-18 pm). Also, it happened on a street mostly and they were wearing sneakers or hiking boots when they got a hurt slipped in a front or side by missing their step in a walk. The injury areas are mostly knee and ankle. They had the bruises or a sprain in their knee and ankle mostly. The rate of bone fracture was 19.5%. Therefore, the protection area to falls in lower body is the knee. But hip and hip joint should be protected with knee as well because those are usually be broken when it is damaged. Third, approximately 80% of those who were hospitalized for treatment had surgery. Patients who had surgery were rather in their over 70s than in their 60s. The older they were, the more serious their fracture was. The period of hospital or outpatient treatment is more than three weeks in many cases. They responded their health got worse after falls. Aftereffects of accidents were physical discomfort, anxiety and medical costs. Falls to the old makes physical damage, psychological damage, which cause reduced physical activity and the increased cost of health care with economic losses. So it results on a negative impact on the life of the old. Fourth, elderly females were rarely aware of impact protective clothing and they have never purchased such clothing. For impact protective pants, the major consideration was suitable design for their body types. They liked casual style with front or side pockets and simple designs without any patterns or decorations. As per pants materials, they responded that they need functionality, activity and elasticity. Among the functional points, insulation of cloths are considered importantly, so the heat reservance of material in the impact protective pants should be considered carefully.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.15 no.1 s.45
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• pp.29-40
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• 2006

This paper is focused on Damheonseo(湛軒書), an anthology written by Hong Daeyong, and I deal with Chinese Architectural views which he had experienced in his itinerary to Beijing, and the vivid pictures of Joseonkwan (called the Koryo or Joseon Embassy) located in Beijing at that time. He was a scholar of great erudition over astronomy, mathematics, military science, politics, and so on. He was interested in practical sciences at early time, and criticized secular scholars full of vanity who had presented purposeless articles. In his age of 35, Qianlong(乾隆) 30 (1764, Youngjo 41), he, a military escort, accompanied by Hong Uk, Joseon envoy and his uncle. Before his itinerary, he self-studied Chinese. Also, during a long journey he got new experiences and information around each area, deviating his group whenever he had some times. He could get more variant experiences than others because of his character full of curiosity, and his observations from the vivid lives of the time helped us get various views between Chinese and Korean architecture. Likewise, although he denounced Qing(淸) scathingly as a barbarian, he mentioned several points about the characteristics of Chinese architecture at that time. First of all, totally Chinese architecture had strong rational and practical points. Secondly, based on bountiful products, buildings along streets shown in Chinese city had sophisticated compositions, and luxurious and magnificent appearances. Thirdly, using the brick from walls to houses was so universal. Fourthly, the layouts of building with three- or four-closed courtyard had very orderly shapes, and the structure of street was also so arranged. Finally, because of stand-up lives, the scales and appearances of interior space were even more extended, and storages were less developed than those of Joseon. As another points, I found that Joseonkwan was moved next to Shushangguan(庶常館)from Huidongnanguan(會同南館) around Hanlimyuan(翰林院), and had been remodeled into a house with Korean custom in using the inner spaces, although it was followed by a closed courtyard style. Likewise, I recognized that Ondols were sure to be established in all temporary houses during the journey to Qing, and felt their strong traditional residential custom in such mentions. Now that the past pictures have disappeared and ways of life and our values have been largely changed, this study has very important meaning in comparing the ancient Chinese and Korean architecture.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.101-122
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• 1994

This paper is one of the sequels from 'A Survey of Villages and Dwellings of Korean Immigrants in the North-Eastern Part of China'. It is the result of the extensive survey of Ch'ang-ts'ai-tsun village and covers several architectural characteristics of the dwellings. This paper alma to identify the 'double file' dwelling type, which is believed as one of the main stream of Korean folk dwelling. In this type, 'Chung-ju-kan' forms the central open space, where main household functions are carried out. This type originates from climatic reasons and functional reasons as well. This paper also aims to clarify how the dwelling forms are changed according to the life styles of various periods. The Korean immigrants in this village have experienced rapid changes in modern times like other Chinese. Through various political movements, the original dwelling type of this village has changed to adapt various needs and functions, which shows the simple truth : dwelling form changes according to the changes of life style and social structure. In this paper the directions of chimney through various periods are analyzed to verify the differences of the house layout methods and concepts of the time. The village had grown through 3 main periods before liberation period(1946), communization period(1946 - 1966) and contemporary period (1967 - ). It is concluded as follows: 1. The village was originated in late 19th century along the east-west street, which was a major routes of Korean Immigrants to China. In this area there was no regularity in its site plan. The direction of chimney, which was usually westward, was not determined according to the location of gate. This type was kept until liberization of this area, 1946. The plans of dwellings followed Ham-kyong-do 'double file' dwelling type, '6-kan dwelling' or '8-kan dwelling'. 2. The 'New Village' area, which was formed in the communization period, has a strict regularity in its site plan. The direction of chimney was determined as opposite direction of the gate. This method was maintained until 1976, when Mao died and new 'open' policy was held by Chinese government. In this area the 'dwelling house' plan type was not changed, but its layout and size were restricted. The general form of the dwelling in this village was shaped in this period. 3. The contemporary dwellings were built in random site location. The dwelling type was changed because of the reduction of family size and the permissin of private ownership. The number of rooms was reduced but the storage rooms and domestic animal hutches were added. But the 'Chung-ju-kan', the major chacteristics of north-eastern Korea dwelling is still kept. It becomes one large 'Chtin-ju-kan' room like 'open plan' type.