• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.141-155
• /
• 2004

Chitosan, the natural biodegradable polymer derived from chitin by de- acetylation, has been widely applied to the textile finishing processes for excellent anti-microbial characteristic and handle improvement of fabric. The purpose of this study is to investigate the change of handle when cotton fabric is treated with chitosan-polyurethane mixed solution. The viscosity values of chitosan solutions were 8cps and 50cps, and the wet-pick-up% was maintained at 90%. In case of mixing with water soluble polyurethane, the mixture ratio of chitosan and polyurethane was settled on the solid content ratio of 1:0, 1:0.5, 1:1, 1:2. Also the change of physical properties by neutralization in NaOH solution was studied. The results can be summarized up as follows : 1. Extensibility(EM) and tensile energy(WT) of cotton fabric treated with chitosan are decreased, but bending rigidity(B) is remarkably increased. With the addition of polyurethane, the decrease of EM and WT is weakened and the increase of B is weakened. The case of neutralization is similar to the case of polyurethane addition. 2. By treating fabric with chitosan, FUKURAMI(Fullness and softness) is decreased, but KOSHI(Stiffness), SHARI(Crispness), HARI(Anti-drape Stiff ness) are increased. With the addition of polyurethane, the decrease of FUKURAMI is diminished and the increase of KOSHI, SHARI, HARI are diminished. 3. As the viscosity of chitosan solution increased, the air permeability value increased. The addition of polyurethane decreased the air permeability.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.6 no.2
• /
• pp.55-62
• /
• 1994

The mend for fabric products has been increased remarkably with increasing population, housings, mutistory buildings,...and etc. during the last two decades. However, since fabrics are highly combustible and can produce toxic gases during the combution, fabric products can result in serious human injury as well as financial damage. Acknowledged by this, a new phosphorus based flame retardant suitable for PET fabric has been synthesized by making use of the reaction of diphenyl chloro phosphate and hexamethylenediamine. Since the starting meterials are relatively cheap and the yield of this reaction is high (more than 90%), this reaction seems to be very effective as wall as very economic. By analyzing various spectrophotometric analysis data such as NMR, FT-IR, and Mass, this new flame retardant is identified to be N,N’-Bis(diphenyl chlorophosphoro)diamino hexane. In the mean time, DSC measurement has shown that the melting point and the boiling point of this material are around 115$^{\circ}C$ and around 40$0^{\circ}C$, respectively. The flame retardancy test done on the PET fabric processed by this flame retardant have shown excellent in times of flame contact, times of flame contact for washable. The most economical finishing condition estimated 10% in concentration of BDPDH, Moreover, it has been also found that the drape stiffness of the PET fiber processed by the flame retartant is changed very litter compared to the unprocessed original PET fabrics. Judging from this, the potential of this new phosphrdus based compond as a flame retardant for PET fabric seems to be high.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.21 no.1
• /
• pp.38-45
• /
• 2009

First of all, the properties imparted to PET fabrics are resistance to and recovery from creasing or wrinkling when wet or dry; high resistance to stretch in the filament yarns but not in the staple; high abrasion resistance; good texture and appearance; resistance to heat ageing; good chemical resistance and good resistance, behind glass, to sunlight. But, the low moisture regain of PET fabric conduces to static troubles in textile processing. Furthermore, garments made from PET may, during wear, develop electric charges which attract to the fabric particles of soil(dirt, swarf, dust) flying in the air, so that the cuffs of shirts, for example, become soiled quickly and are not easily laundered clean. The sericin constitutes 25$\sim$30％ of silk protein and surrounds the fibroin fiber with sticky layer that supports the formation of a cocoon. The useful biochemical properties of sericin protein are oxidation resistant, antibacterial, UV resistant, hydrophilic property, and good affinity with hydrophobic material. These properties can be used as an improving reagent or a coating agent for natural and synthetic fibers, fabrics, and other intermediate products. The sericin is also applied to cross-link, and can be blended with other materials. In this study, we modified the surface of PET fabric by mixture of sericin finishing agent; sericin, polyuretane binder and 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) cross-link agent. Also, we investigated the finshing effect; moisture regain, stiffness, handle, drape and electrostatic. The moisture regain of PET fabric treated with sericin finishing agent was higher than that of untreated PET fabric. As a result of evaluating influence about handle of PET fabrics treated with sericin finishing agent, it was confirmed that the sericin finishing agent could be use as a linen like finishing agent.

• Fibers and Polymers
• /
• v.7 no.4
• /
• pp.442-445
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study was to compare the subjective fabric hand evaluation and wear comfort of PET treated by Ultraviolet and to evaluate the subjective results from the investigation of microclimate temperature. The subjective hand evaluation was performed by 20 subjects (age: 20-25) with 5-point scale questionnaires to investigate the change of PET knit fabrics treated for different times, specifically, 0, 30 and 90 minutes. The questionnaires were composite with 8 questions; roughness, smoothness, wetness, stiffness, coolness, touch, preference, and comfort. In order to evaluate sensations of wear comfort, we made garments with UV treated fabric and five female students were tested. They walked at the speed of 6.7 km/ hr for 15 minutes in an environment, which was controlled at $29^{\circ}C,\;75{\pm}5%$ RH. Before and after exercising, the microclimate under clothing and subjective wear comfort was measured. The results of subjective evaluation of fabric hand were that untreated and treated for 30 minutes PET were recognized as similar and have a good evaluation on comfort, preference, and touch. According to the result of wear comfort, clothing treated by UV for 90 minutes had the lowest value on the thermal and humidity sensations. In addition, the value of tactile and comfort sensation was the highest on the clothing treated by UV for 90 minutes. In the case of objective evaluation, PET treated for 90 minutes was the lowest on microclimate humidity. PET irradiated by UV for 90 minutes was more 'cool' in thermal sensation and more 'dry' in wet sensation. Accordingly, it was consistent with the result of subjective wear comfort.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.13 no.6
• /
• pp.990-995
• /
• 2011

This study analyzed the effects of the knit stitch type, fiber composition, and yarn thickness on the mechanical properties of knitted fabric. The results were as follows: The course density was the highest in the case of the rib stitch. On the other hand, the wale density was the highest in the case of the float stitch. The thickness was the highest in the case of the rib stitch. The same results were obtained even for different fiber compositions and yarn thicknesses considered in this study. The burst strength of wool knit fabric was higher than that of A/W knit fabric. The stiffness was the lowest in the case of the plain stitch. The same results were obtained even for different fiber compositions and yarn thicknesses. The pilling properties were excellent for all knit stitches, fiber composition, and yarn thicknesses as pilling degree : 5. The air permeability decreased in the following order : rib > plain > float stitch. The same results were obtained even for different fiber compositions and yarn thicknesses. The heat retention rate decreased in the following order : rib > float > plain stitch. The same results were obtained even for different fiber compositions and yarn thicknesses.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.22 no.3
• /
• pp.272-281
• /
• 2010

This paper surveys the effects of drawing conditions of the worsted staple yarns on the mechanical properties of the knitted fabrics for highly aesthetical fabrics. The drawn worsted yarns were made on the yarn drawing system with various draw ratios under the fixed conditions of setting time, reduction and oxidation. The knitted fabric specimens were prepared on the 16 gauge circular knitting machine using these drawn worsted staple yarns. The tensile, shear, bending, compression and surface properties of these knitted fabrics were measured by KES-FB-AUTO-A system and also discussed with the drawing conditions. The tensile linearity, shear stiffness and bending rigidity decreased with increasing draw ratio. Any changes were not shown on the compressional properties with drawing conditions. But the friction coefficient of the knitted fabric on the course direction increased with increasing draw ratio, while there was no change according to the draw ratio on the wale direction.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
• /
• 2011.03a
• /
• pp.98-98
• /
• 2011

직물의 경우 드레이프성을 줄이고 KOSHI감(stiffness)을 부여하기 위해 일반적으로 나이프(knife) 코팅가공을 주로 사용한다. 하지만 니트는 워낙 신축성이 뛰어나기 때문에 큰 장력을 요구하는 일반 코팅공정을 적용할 경우 원단이 나이프에 밀리는 현상과 신장 상태에서 경화되어 니트 특유의 신축성을 완전히 읽어버리는 문제가 발생한다. 따라서 니트 코팅 가공을 위해 원단에 장력이 걸리지 않으며 니트 원단에 직접 수지를 도포하는 방식이 아닌 간접 도포가 가능한 장비를 고안하였다. 즉, 아래에 나타낸 모식도와 같이 프로팅이나 over roll 나이프 방식을 사용하여 전사에 필요한 수지를 R/F에 코팅하고 이를 니트와 붙인 후 열풍 건조기와 열실린더를 통과시켜 수지가 니트에 전사되도록 하는 것이다. 본 연구에서는 고신축성과 탁월한 포면 터치감을 가지는 니트를 겉옷 및 다양한 용도로 전개하기 위해 R/F(releas fabric)의 조건을 설정 및 코팅 조건 설정을 통해 니트 가공 직물의 성능 변화를 살펴보기로 한다.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.17 no.1
• /
• pp.52-59
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study is to establish the scientific data of cotton fabric pretreated with skim milk powder and to improve the dyeability. The surface monophology, add on, whiteness, stiffness, air permeability, moisture regain and absorption of cotton fabrics were evaluated by varying concentration of SMP to get the optimal conditions in pretreatment. FT-IR of cotton fabrics pretreated with SMP were measured. Amino acid compositions, viscosity of SMP were evaluated. The K/S values by varying concentration of cinnamon cassia and subtract of dyed SMP-C were measured. I attempted to evalute the color fastness of untreated and AI. The results are as follow; The optimal concentration of SMP was 9%(w/v) to be pretreated with cotton fabrics. From FT-IR spectrum, formation of -NH$_2$ and -COOH was verified by SMP-C. Denaturalization of protein and condensation of carbohydrate, fat, etc. were found in a measurement of amino acid and viscocity. The K/S value of cotton fabrics pretreated with SMP was higher than that of untreated. Most of the color fastnesses were great.

• Geotechnical Engineering
• /
• v.12 no.4
• /
• pp.157-178
• /
• 1996

Current design methods for reinforced earth structures take no account of the magnitude of the strains induced in the tensile members as these are invariably manufactured from high modulus materials, such as steel, where straits are unlikely to be significant. With fabrics, however, large strains may frequently be induced and it is important to determine these to enable the stability of the structure to be assessed. In the present paper internal design method of analysis relating to the use of fabric reinforcements in reinforced earth structures for both stress and strain considerations is presented. For the internal stability analysis against rupture and pullout of the fabric reinforcements, a strain compatibility analysis procedure that considers the effects of reinforcement stiffness, relative movement between the soil and reinforcements, and compaction-induced stresses as studied by Ehrlich 8l Mitchell is used. I Bowever, the soil-reinforcement interaction is modeled by relating nonlinear elastic soil behavior to nonlinear response of the reinforcement. The soil constitutive model used is a modified vertsion of the hyperbolic soil model and compaction stress model proposed by Duncan et at., and iterative step-loading approach is used to take nonlinear soil behavior into consideration. The effects of seepage pressures are also dealt with in the proposed method of analy For purposes of assessing the strain behavior oi the fabric reinforcements, nonlinear model of hyperbolic form describing the load-extension relation of fabrics is employed. A procedure for specifying the strength characteristics of paraweb polyester fibre multicord, needle punched non-woven geotHxtile and knitted polyester geogrid is also described which may provide a more convenient procedure for incorporating the fablic properties into the prediction of fabric deformations. An attempt to define improvement in bond-linkage at the interconnecting nodes of the fabric reinforced earth stracture due to the confining stress is further made. The proposed method of analysis has been applied to estimate the maximum tensions, deformations and strains of the fabric reinforcements. The results are then compared with those of finite element analysis and experimental tests, and show in general good agreements indicating the effectiveness of the proposed method of analysis. Analytical parametric studies are also carried out to investigate the effects of relative soil-fabric reinforcement stiffness, locked-in stresses, compaction load and seepage pressures on the magnitude and variation of the fabric deformations.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.28
• /
• pp.205-212
• /
• 1996

This paper is to study the characteristics of fabrics dyed with astringent unripe persimmon juice. The cotton silk rayon and nylon fabrics were dyed with astringet unripe persimmon juice. The structures of natural fabrics dyed fabrics and dyed fabrics followed by washing were examined by scanning electron mi-croscopy. Surface reflexibility of VIS trans-mittance of UV VIS and NIR were analyzed. The study conclues as follows: 1. Colour of cotton fabrics dyed with persim-mon juice became darkended as a function of exposing time to sunlight. That colour was chaged after washing. 2. Blocking effect of ultraciolet light and visible ray was increased in all dyed fabrics. Especially dyed cotton fabric blocked UV light perfectly and the blocking effect was still remained after 9 washings. 3. Persimmon juice dyeing produced coating effect to fabrics besides dyeing effect accord-ing to the scanning electron micrographs. In a word the cotton fabric dyed with per-simmon juice has blocking effect of UV light stiffness. Therefore I think persimmon juice dyeing is a very useful textile finishing and ex-pect a wide application of the technique in fu-ture.