• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.31-42
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• 1999

The category killer that has been rapidly growing mainly in advanced countries since early 1990's, is a mew distribution model which aims for obtaining market controlling power by surpassing competing businesses in a specific area of products. The domestic situation of category killers is very different from that of advanced ones abroad since it has just been introduced into the Korean market. At the moment, there are only 10 or so companies operating in the market : Geopyung's , Taeheng's , Midopa's , of Sinsegye Department store, adn of Yerim International. The purpose of this study is to examine problems of domestic companies in the present market by analysing the operation status of category killers in domestic markets as well as foreign ones, and to suggest a counter-strategy of category killers for the distribution environment of the 21st century to improve the competitiveness of Korean distribution industry. The competitiveness of category killers lies above all in products lines. Category killers are equipped with the greatest number of products lines among those of competing businesses due to maximized product selections in an limited range. Another source of competitiveness may be found in balanced strategy positioning. That is to say, category killers are in a position where they can adjust policies towards any of the three purposes while aiming at them altogether : prices of discount stores, products range of specialty stores, and customer service level of department stores. It is also necessary for efficient store operation to use information technology such as electronic data interchange (EDI), electronic pose system(EPOS) and electronic funds transfer (EFTPOS). As for the cost structure, category killers can gain an advantage over other business since operating cost of various sections can be saved. There are, however, certain risks that category killers with strong competitiveness may influence on other businesses a great deal and even facilitate their decline. Yet it seems that the growth of category killers will be more viciously restrained by continuous challenges from other businesses. The distribution industry is supposed to develop through such competition and restraint.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.1031-1048
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to investigate the status of domestic and foreign power blogs that serve as professional source of information and to clarify the difference of the criteria for the certification and selection of power blogs. The study also analyzed the configuration of contents and the characteristic of categories of the power blogs. Eleven domestic blogs were examined, of which ten were certified as power blogs on several portal sites and one blog was operating in English. Furthermore twelve foreign blogs were examined, of which ten blogs were selected from the graded list of www.alexa.com for the Fashion Power Blog TOP 20 adopted on www.telegraph.co.uk in 2009, and two noticeable blogs were selected additionally. Data were analyzed by both theoretical and exploratory studies. The exploratory study was conducted by fourteen majors, who took interest in the blogs and were divided into two groups to look at the domestic and foreign sites, from 12 October to 12 November in 2010. The types of blogs were classified by frequency analysis of interactivity, interest provision, information provision and purchase capability. The investigators checked the type of the contents of each blog and the frequencies were used for the classification type. The analysis showed that the frequencies were in the order of information provision, followed by interest provision, and purchase capability for foreign blogs, while interest provision was followed by information provision for domestic blogs. Interactivity, interest provision, information provision and purchase capability were generally reflected in foreign blogs. Rather than interest provision and information provision, however, interactivity and purchase capability were reflected relatively weakly in domestic blogs.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.195-207
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• 2012

In South Korea, the growth of online shopping malls that are overtaking traditional offline distributors in sales requires the latter to concentrate on developing a variety of contents amidst the ever-changing and competitive market environment. First of all, attention should be paid to information on fashion item materials. This study examined the current status of online shopping malls with a focus on their three different types-specialized malls, general malls, and open markets-and investigated consumers' hedonic shopping motives and influence on fashion materials in terms of purchasing behavior. In doing so, this study surveyed men and women in their 20s-30s residing in Seoul or its surrounding cities and used a total of 255 questionnaires for statistical analysis. The statistical software program SPSS 15.0 was used to conduct frequency analysis, factor analysis, reliability analysis, and multiple regression analysis. The study results showed that in general and specialized shopping malls, consumers granted greater reliability and importance to fashion materials when their interest in shopping or attention to fashion items/brands was high and when they wanted rare items. In open markets, the more interest consumers had in shopping and the more sensitive they were to fashion information, the more dependent they were on prices; in other words, prices were found to have a greater influence on their purchase decisions than the quality of fashion materials. The findings of this study would be useful to marketers and distributors who are trying to develop their marketing strategies based on fashion material information, according to the different types of online shopping malls.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.184-194
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is twofold: it suggests appropriate sizes in menswear slim-fit jackets according to brand zones and number of buttons, as well as jacket patternmaking methods according to jacket styles by surveying and comparing the overall present status of patternmaking and production for both men's slim-fit and classic-fit jackets. The researcher conducted interviews with patternmakers of sixteen brands with prepared questionnaires. Data were analyzed by descriptive statistics using SPSS 12.0. The results of this study are as follows: first, for the production ratios of jacket style, the jacket styles' respective proportions differ distinctly according to brand zone. Second, for a jacket with the same number of buttons according to brand zone, the size in character-casual brand zone (character casual can be defined as high quality brands producing designer style clothes) is slightly bigger than the men's formal suit. As the number of buttons increases, there are increases in the chest, waist and hip circumference; on the other hand, the front neck width and the distance from the shoulder neck point to the bottom of the lapel both decrease. Furthermore, the amount of wearing ease in the chest, waist, upper arm circumference, and sleeve curve is less in slim-fit jacket styles than in classic-fit jacket styles. Fusible interfacing alone is used in slim-fit jackets, while sew-in interfacing is used in combination with fusible interfacing in classic-fit jackets. This research concludes that when slim-fit men's jackets are manufactured, appropriate patternmaking and manufacturing methods should be considered.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.591-606
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• 2020

The aim of this study is to explore diverse characteristics of females aged 25 to 49 years grouped according to Body Mass Index(BMI), and to investigate the effect of body satisfaction and self-esteem on involvement in dieting within each BMI group. In total, 549 females who participated in an online survey were divided into groups based on BMI(underweight, normal, and overweight). Results demonstrated three key factors, as follows. First, differences were identified among BMI groups according to demographic characteristics(age, household income, and marital status), although no difference according to education level was found. Second, differences according to BMI groups were found in body satisfaction and involvement in dieting, whereas were not found in self-esteem. Third, model testing for each BMI group showed, a positive correlation between body satisfaction and self-esteem in all three groups. However, there was a difference in causal relationships among variable across BMI groups. Body satisfaction negatively affected and self-esteem positively affected involvement in dieting for the underweight and normal groups, whereas there was no causal relationship between variables in the overweight group. Based on these results, basic information of groups segmented by the level of BMI was obtained, which could be used for both academic and practical implications.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.41-54
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to research on status of physical discomfort and clothing life including clothing inconvenience for enhancing self-reliance of elderly women, newly emerging consumer. The subject of research were 346 elderly women who aged 60 or older in Seoul and Seoul Suburbs. Survey consisted of questions about body discomfort, satisfaction and purchasing criteria of ready-to-wear, the inconvenience of clothing. The results of this study are as follows: Physical discomforts were generally associated with the ability to regulate body temperature. The biggest complaint of ready-to-wear was the price, and the next were the size and activity. In purchasing criteria, 'clothes to fit my body shape', 'clothes easy to put on and take off', 'comfortable clothes to work' showed high score. In clothing inconvenience, 'feel inconvenience due to several layers of clothing to avoid chilliness', 'feel heaviness in the waist due to tightness', 'feel chilliness even when wearing several layers of clothing in the winter' were the most uncomfortable parts. Subjects over the age of 80 years and needed the help of others in activities experienced more inconvenience in clothing life. It seems that body discomfort such as dulness of movement and loss of body temperature regulation capability due to aging had a influence on their clothing life. This problem could be improved by the adjustment of pattern allowance, the selection of the fastener, and the proper use of functional fabric. The results of this study will be used as a basis for development of the elderly women's clothing to increase convenience and mobility in everyday life.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.10
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• pp.1-15
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• 2010

A Korean knot is one of the ornamental elements that our ancestors used intimately in their daily lives, and the diverse forms and structural features of the Korean knot have sufficient creative and aesthetic value for it to be recognized as one of beautiful products that was relished by individuals of the times. Starting from two strands, Korean knots make unique forms as they are overlapped or plaited, crossing each other in many ways. The forms of Korean knots were given names such as "nabi maedeup"(butterfly knots) and "gukwa maedeup" (chrysanthemum knots), in reference to things in the surrounding environment that were perceived as being similar in their appearance. It is considered that with their unique structure, such Korean knots may provide a good motif for creative design. As well, it is believed that combining the traditional beauty of Korean knots with a contemporary sensibility will lead to the creation of truly forward-looking design. Against this backdrop, this study aims to inquire into and analyze the formative characteristics and aesthetics of Korean knots, with an eye to their use in future design. In addition, it aims to help to put such historical knotting practices into practical and functional use in the future, through a study of previous uses of historical knotting practices with a modern sensibility. It is thus expected that this work will contribute to the inheriting and development of traditional culture, and ultimately to enhancing the status of Korean design in the world.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.7
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• pp.35-50
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• 2011

In this study, repression of the body is defined as a restriction on natural developments or movements and a modification either temporarily or permanently of the human body in shape, color, texture and odor. In addition, it involves physical and (or) mental pain. Chinese foot-binding and the Western corset are extreme examples of female body's being repressed in the history of fashion. The analysis of this type of repression will be based on historical research and theoretical concepts such as Darwin's (1809-1882) survival condition, Freud's (1856-1939) renunciation of desire, Weil's (1909-1943) privilege, and Foucault's (1926-1984) L'Usage des Plaisirs(the use of pleasure). Chinese foot-binding symbolically represents ideal beauty, the distinction of an ethnic group, and a desire for improved social status in the struggle for political power. It also represents psychology and a esthetics of eroticism and fetishism that originate from a man's desire and his individual taste. Symbolically, the Western corset represents abundance and fecundity, obedience and devotion to religion, the sanctity of God and ideal beauty as defined by political power. It also represents psychology and aesthetics of eroticism and fetishism as man's desire and a fashion icon. In conclusion, Chinese foot-binding was pursuit of power in male ideology but Western corset was a power struggle between God and mankind.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.5
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• pp.35-50
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• 2013

This thesis is based on the study of formativeness and versatility of Sarong. For the aim of the research, Sarongs were classified into two types: rectangular and tube, using its original form as the basis. These two types of Sarongs were divided into more detailed groups depending on the purposes of attire, such as skirts, dresses, and capes. To look into the formativeness and versatility of Sarong, the usage of wear and expression methods were observed based on these categories. The following results were found regarding the versatility of Sarong: First, Sarong has a wide degree of versatility in terms of usage. It can be worn as a skirt, a head scarf, a dress, a cape, or used as a carrier or even a sleeping bag, based on one's intention. The change of usage is often accompanied with the change of forms, as can be shown by the longyi of Myanmar, the tube type Sarong, which is used as briefs. Second, Sarong has a wide degree of versatility in terms of function. Variations of instrumental and expressive function of Sarong are observed simultaneously. The physical function sometimes coincides with the changes of usage as mentioned above. The way that Sarong's are expressed in different social situations changes depending on the wearer's social status, religion, or origin. So by looking at the way a Sarong is worn, others can tell if a person is going to social events such as festivals and weddings. Third, Sarong has a wide degree of versatility in terms of design. However, even if same usage and function is pursued, the design can be different based on an individual. This is because the external change of Sarong is affected by individuality or aesthetic sense of the wearer.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.75-91
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• 1996

The work-man's uniform should be coincident wit the image of his firm and accounted of the function according as its purpose. We made questions to 404 workers at 8 firm in our country through the questionnaire papers to know about a work-man's uniform and researched whether the satisfactory in wearing his uniform had relation with his type of business, grade, carrier, age, marriage, and monthly income. The results of this study is as follows; 1. In the uniform status of the fir, thee were many jumper styles in he design of the uniform. The color of that was more dark than bright and the materials of one was used much more chemical fiber than natural fiber. Each of the field office supplied the uniform to his work-man more frequently than the main office. All of firm payed off the uniform expense and decision of the uniform design was almost made both the firm and the labour union. 2. In he satisfaction of the uniform, the satisfaction of uniform was shown high in the design, color, materials, size and function. The highest dissatisfaction reason is as follows; it was disagreeable to concrete design in the design and dark color and keeping warm or draft was bad in the materials, the bust and pant's length was long in the size. 3. In preference of the uniform, the older of preference in the design was what the working environment and the image of firm was suitable, the characteristic uniform. The order of preference in the color was beige, blue, grey. The preference of in the materials was good to keep warm and draft. The preference in the pattern was 'no pattern' every type of business. The experts, or administrators and office workers than others preferred 'no pattern' of the uniform in the pattern.