• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.25 no.1
• /
• pp.104-116
• /
• 2017

People tend to maintain and express their individuality in unique ways. Consumer's need for uniqueness is defined as an individual's pursuit that differentiates themselves from others, thereby developing and enhancing their personal identities. This study examined the effect of consumers' need for uniqueness on fashion orientation and consumption values. Data were collected through a questionnaire survey distributed to people visiting the fashion show center during Seoul Fashion Week. The survey questions were designed using the 5-point Likert scale and Cronbach's ${\alpha}$ value of questions was reliable as .628-.862. The study's results indicate that people with high need for uniqueness are very interested in fashion and think that is important to be well-dressed. In addition, the results suggest that people with high needs for unusual choices who enjoy challenging the prevailing taste of people want to be fashion leaders and are attracted to products that express their personality well. And people with high needs for creative choices and incompliant choices value their own satisfaction and happiness with the products. On the other hand, consumer's needs for incompliant choices have a negative effect on social value. As a result, people with high needs for incompliant choices would break social norms rather than consider social status and reputation when they purchase fashion products. The concluding section of the paper discusses the implications of this research for fashion companies.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.10 no.3
• /
• pp.111-126
• /
• 2008

This article aims to discover the current status and appropriate way to research Gyubang craft, expecting its development and preservation, and elevating it to Korea's unique artistic textile culture. It also searches improved methods for Gyubang craft as the following: First, in order to avoid confusions about Gyubang craft, appropriate concepts and definitions of Gyubang craft must be settled through a discussion among experts. Second, by activating economic activities at lower ratio, among purposes of Gyubang craft, achievements must be elevated. Third, in order to settle down the difficulties of Gyubang craft, a variety of methods such as effective sewing machines and manufacturing techniques as well as providing materials at a reasonable price, considering practical ways through diversifying products, elevating the economy of crafts, exploring sales routes, improving educational contents, and expanding educational places must be facilitated. Fourth, for nurturing talented and excellent human resources in the area of Gyubang craft, the followings should be considered: diversifying contents of education, developing textbooks, improving instructors' quality, providing reasonable cost of education, educating on the utilization and application of Gyubang craft, introducing efficient teaching methods through textbooks and multimedia, awarding 'certificates' to trainees, and permitting certificate holders' to instruct Gyubang craft. Finally, it is convinced that the achievement of production, pride of preserving tradition, pleasure of procedural work, economic activities as experts, and sales of products will be reinforced, and the population for Gyubang craft is also expected to increase. By elevating Gyubang craft into Korea's traditional textile art, Korea's global competitiveness in the area of textile should be strengthened.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.65 no.8
• /
• pp.95-109
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this Study is to understand Supsin (shoes for dead) in late Chosun dynasty through records and excavated relics. The research records in this study were two types which one was official records as The Annals of The Chosean Dynasty(朝鮮王朝實錄), Dairy of the Royal Secretariat(承政院日記) ets and the other was private records as Korean literary collections of confucian scholars in classical chinese(文集) ect. as for relics use two types of materials that one is the excavated supsins and the other is Research Reports of Excavated Costumes published from museums. Through the Collections, we can notice that shoes were several types which Wunhae(雲鞋), Danghae(唐鞋) Onhae(溫鞋) Wunli(雲履), Taesahae(太史鞋) in Chosun dynasty. these were worn in different ways according to wearer's gender, the social status, daily life or rituals, inside or outside in palace. Wunhae and Wunli was the most ceremonial shoes for man and Onhae was the most ceremonial shoes for woman. the dead man worn the Wunhae or Wunli for Supsin and the dead woman worn Onhae. we could see they use the most ceremonial shoes for supsin. through the records, we could see the change that Women's Supsin was written for the first time in 18th Saraepyenram(四禮便覽). men's Supsin was recorded as '履', while Women's Supsin was recorded as '鞋' in Saraepyenram. the reason for making difference between man and woman in costumes(男女有別). and the excavated Supsin showed that the dead worn more ceremonial shoes than records. these changes mean one of the results for making korean style rituals from chinese style(國俗化).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.53 no.5
• /
• pp.79-95
• /
• 2003

The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women´s status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1960´s, ideal beauty was small bust, long legs, which showed extremely slim Mini-skirt look. Thinly or no padded brassiere were worn for small bust, and pants-style short panty girdles were popular as they used to wear pants frequently. Lycra replaced all the closures, bones, seams and gave freedom with light weight. In 1970´s, a natural human body without sex specific was in vogue. Therefore, the non-structural knits without a pad or lining or the shirts dress were widespread for a Natural look and the naturally molded brassiere or girdles were worn as the underwears. In 1980´s, the women with powerful muscle appear which emphasized liveliness and healthfulness. The body conscious represented by wide shoulder, plump breast, accented waist, small hips, and long legs has been embodied. Outer garments emphasized women power and healthy beauty with Power suit and Form-fitting style, and underwears made the breast plump with padded brassiere and emphasized waist and hips with waspie. In 1990´s, ideal beauty was slim body with big bust and the outer garments emphasized body line of women with Hourglass silhouette. Push-up bra which emphasizes the valley of breast and supports the breast upward and the control tights for slim waist, flat abdomen, small hips, and long and slim legs have been useful as underwears. Multi-functional micro-fiber has been ideal for sculpting women body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.1
• /
• pp.9-16
• /
• 2008

Six of the Imdang tombs containing remains with imprints of ancient fabrics and textiles were investigated. Within the tombs, a total of 120 pieces of imprinted fabrics and textiles were investigated, all of which belongs to $5{\sim}6C$ Shilla period. All of the hemp textiles examined exhibited similar characteristics found in ancient hemp textiles: they were woven by plain weave technique with s-twist threads. The examined silk could be categorized into plain woven silk, cho, and double woven brocade, all of them made with non-twisted threads and degummed silk. The density of the plain woven silk ranged from 39 threads to 144 threads. Cho was also found, which showed similar characteristics to those of Gaya and Bakjae tombs. One piece of 2/1 twill weave on plain ground and 12 pieces of double woven brocade were found and their average density was $97.4{\times}33.4/cm$ with denser warp than weft. The various thickness of the threads were observed in the examined plain braid. The silk with twining technique showed thicker warp than weft. This is similar to the techniques of fabrics found in the King Muryeoung's Tomb of the Bakjae period. Fabrics with the purple-like color were observed in the some of the double woven brocades and also on the plain woven silk imprinted on the remains. The purple-like color was revealed to be purple with a tint of violet. The two tombs from which the imprinted fabrics with purple-like color were found belonged to top-class social level of the Shilla period, which informs that the purple color was used exclusively for the people of higher social status. The floss silk was found between the double woven brocade and plain woven silk of the belt, which is an important evidence that the floss silk was used for stuffing in the early 6th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.15
• /
• pp.217-231
• /
• 1990

The purposes of this study were to research 1) the background of origination, 2) the process of development and 3) the influences to modern clothing culture of American sportswear. The most Influential sportswear designers in America from beginning period to present : such as Claire McCardell, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan were selected to study their life and achievements in the world sportswear market. The Results were as follows : 1) World War I & II have caused the greatest changes to modern history America became the center of world economy, society and culture. Politically, they have influenced democracy world-wide and raised the social status of women. The free American women enjoyed sports, Jazz drinking and car-driving. The advanced technology have accelerated mechanization and mass-production to the fashion industrv. 2) The above historical backgrounds have caused to change women's clothing to casual, practical and simple form. Dorothy Shaver at Lord & Taylor began promoting American designers who created the original American spirit. Claire McCardell created the seperated American sportswear to become world-wide fashion. Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren, the sportswear designers who have the unique American feeling have come to have riches and fames equal to the top designers in Paris. 3) The American sportswear and fashion industry influenced Paris Mode, the traditional Haute Couture to open Pret-a-porter-a-porter. The concept of seperated coordination in American sportswear have promoted the advanced marketing techniques and merchandising systems to modern ready-to-wear industry. Fashion in 1980s have increased the mutual interdepedence between the American sportswear industry and the creative Paris Mode. And then, the fashion world in 1990s and 21C will be changed and developed on the basis of American sportswear mechanism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.53 no.3
• /
• pp.137-154
• /
• 2003

The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women's status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1910's, ideal beauty has changed to H-style. In other words, the outer garment has confined the lower part of the body with plain H-type Hobble silhouette to express plump bust, somewhat slim waist, and small hips, As the underwears, cylindrical corsets which fasten from under the bust down to lap, brassiere which are helpful for plump bust, and artificial busts were worn. In 1920's, outer garment were Straight box silhouette style which were cut as tubular without dart, and the underwears were corselets which have been tubular from the bust to hip and the tubular chemi-knickers. The former corsets which had been hard-boned and been fastened with strings have been replaced by the hook closure due to the development of elastic joining method. In 1930's, women pursued perfect body showing the line of bust, waist, and hip. In order to express elegant beauty of female of Slim and long silhouette, Doter and underwear have been cut with bias and gore, and soft and flexible materials were flowed along the body. World war II in 1940's has made the women as social. Ideal beauty has changed to Short straight box silhouette which no more shows body line. Outer and underwears were simple and Practical style. In 1950's, ideal beauty was well-matured, elegant Women which were represented by round shoulder, conical breast, tiny waist and round hip. Outer garment showed Hourglass silhouette representing the body-tight suits with round shoulder pad and the wide flare skirts. As the underwears, conical brassiere by top circular stitch were preferred for plump and bulged bust and tight corsets for tiny waist and magnificent petticoats were worn.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.65 no.7
• /
• pp.75-85
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine ways to vitalize cause related marketing (CRM) by proposing character T-shirts The campaign will employ Neo-Pop art, a genre popular with both companies and consumers. Study results are as follows: First, campaign T-shirts on the issue of human alienation resulting from digitalization can be utilized to generate financial profit that can be returned to society. This can lead to the acts of exchange for profit generation, public image improvemen of companies, and enhancement of their external status. As for the non-financial aspect, the campaign could lead to increased awareness of social issues and present opportunities to take actions of improvement. Second, the financial objective of character T-shirts dealing with environmental issue of sustainability involves brand distribution network support and revitalization of promotion such as shopping basket of love and eco-friendly store matching program for eco-friendly campaign. As for the non-financial aspect, it can help raise consumers' awareness of cause related activities such as crowd funding and fundraising and prepare opportunities of direct participation. Third, the financial objective of character T-shirts dealing with natural disaster relief activities on the global level involves brand recognition level increase and enhancement of positive association of companies through emergency relief and articles support as a result of drastic increases in casualties from nature disasters. As for the non-financial aspect, it can induce people's participation in relief activities and lead to the establishment of crisis response procedures. The information on the development of pop-art character T-shirts proposed in this study is expected to be used as basic information on cause marketing of fashion companies in the future, while providing inspiration to related fashion design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.25 no.5
• /
• pp.611-628
• /
• 2017

As a plan for establishing Korea's cultural identity and its competitive edge in the world market and for enhancing Korea's cultural status, creative and unique high value-added cultural products need to be developed utilizing our inherent cultural assets. Accordingly, this study focused on the development of the design of fashion cultural products that utilize the convergence of Hangeul our peculiar font style and Korea's cultural heritage, which is registered as part of UNESCO's World Heritage. A design method was devised that converges archetypal images of cultural property with the unique Hangeul font in a way that targets Korea's symbolic architectures. The symbolic architecture includes Korea's world-heritage pagoda architecture, such as Seokgatap pagoda and Dabotap pagoda at Bulguksa temple. It also included the architecture of royal palace, such as Injeongjeon hall at Changdeokgung palace. Finally, it also included the architecture of the fortress wall, such as Paldalmun gate in Hwaseong fortress. Thus, by developing cultural assets made from a convergence between architecture and the Hangeul font as a consumer-product image that has universality, the possibility of cultural products was pursued by applying color planning after an analysis that involved extracting the compositional colors of the flags of the world. This research and approach will lead to opportunities for further progress for Korea's cultural products in the global market as a results of additional recognition for their value, excellence, and universal appeal.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.22
• /
• pp.313-332
• /
• 1994

The purpose of this study were as follows : 1) Investigate how to intluence Clothes with time background and trends of art-thought in the twenty century. 2) To understand chronologically how to change hair style Make-up and hair decor-ation. I. 1st and 2nd World War time(1920-1945) The women's social status and their sexual equality was promoted during in this time. 1) African Art Surrealism and Expression art were doninated. 2) The popalar trends were tutular silhoutte (Slim and long) boyish Style and military lookwere popular. 3) The popalar trends of were Eton Crop. short bob gaconne hair style cloche hat. page boy hair style were popular. 4) The trend of make-up which specially. emphasized eye make-up and imitated movie star make-up and make shining redish of lip and nails were popular. II. The stage of modernism(1945-1969) cold war time between communism and capi-talism and promotin of women's human rights were established in this time. 1) Pop art avantgrade art were catched up 2) The popular trends of were new look Kior's line silhoutte mini skirt and young fashion. 3) The popular trend of hair style was french twist. Pill Boxs hat curly bob style were prevalenced and they some what dwarfed hair style. 4) make-up natural make-up was popular. III. The stage of high economic development (1969-1990) Increased population economic development were tend to specialize with anti-social action such as Hippie and Punk groups. 1) Op art Androgynous post-modernism Punk and neo-modernism were catched up. 2) Clothes : classic style of reactionism layered look Punk-fashion avantgrade fashion and pantalon suits were prevalence. 3) Hair Style : Twiggy's short hair style the geometric hair cut natural long hair Spike hair unsex-hair style. 4) Make-up : diversified individuality were prevalence The result of this study indicated that the value's of recognize the importance of total fashion that is the harmonization of clothes hair style and make-up.