• 복식
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• 제44권
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• pp.5-17
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• 1999

This paper studies women's clothing and textiles recorded in the『the Odes』, and refers research materials on the old commentaries about the『the Odes』and the various kinds of records and remains. The results regarding women's clothing in『the Odes』are follow: 1. Ti-i, Chin-i are the women's ceremonial dresses. Ti-i is a kind of the court dress and the shape is a long dress embroidered with pheasant. Chan-i belongs to the lower grade compared with the six ritual dresses worn by the queen and is made of Hu that is a kind of the white soft-wrinkled fabrics. 2. A women's I-Shang is composed of a blouse and a skirt. It is the classic style before the Sh n-I appears in China. Also we find that they use the standard colours for a blouse and the intermediate colours for a skirt in Chou period. 3. Chiung-I, Chiung-Shang and Hsieh-Pen are a kind of the robe put over the former garment made of Chin not to display to elegance. 4. Fu, Ch n-Fa, Pei and T'i are a kind of women's wig. Ti and the six-Chia are women's hair ornaments. Ch'i-Chin and Ju-L are a kind of the working women's turbun. 5. The women's belt ornaments are classified into the practical things and the decorational things like those for men. The results regarding fabrics in the『the Odes』are as follow: 1. The silk fabrics; There are Chin, Hu, Chou, Tz , Su, Hsiu. 2. The woolen fabrics; There is Ho. 3. The linen fabrics; There are the hemp and the ramie in the remains of Chou period. Also there are Ch'ih and Hsi categorized in Ko fabrics.

• 복식
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• 제44권
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• pp.37-56
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• 1999

In clothing, a tendency of Bisexuality is in case of wearing clothing of the opposite sex, the mixing of modeling principle and characteristic of man and woman, the exclusion characteristic of sexuality that present sexlessness-the third sex. They-Designer Gabrielle Chanel, YSL, Giorgio Armani-give characteristic of man's fashion to women's fashion. However, the consciousness in design is different. Chanel apply principle of man's suit to woman's wear to express authority and power about gender image, hereby she express women liberation and equality of man and woman based on social ideology through fashion especially, she express women's sexual independency and self assurance to her clothing. YSL express liberal and bold women that pursuit reasonal and liberal life in 1970. As he apply tailoed suit's rigidity to women's wear, he made 'pants look' universal in women's wear through“Dress for success”in modern life. Armani apply successful modern image to women's wear, so he express women's image of confident intellegent as well as feminine image. He focus women's new image as man living liberal and indivisual life excluding social category rather than will of equality of man and women. Gernreich break sexual prejudice and release women freely, furthermore, as he express concern of sexuality pursuit liberty of mankind surpassing sex distinction with women liberty. Gianni Versace pursuit mix and extinguishment of sexual image many-sided, and break fixed idea of sex, and reprovide feminine and masculine image. So his design tend homosexuality because he regard women's glamor and ostensible sexuality as standard of beauty, he apply this to man's wear as well as women's wear. With this, he expresses sensitive and liberal man's that break characteristic of Gender that symbolize power and authority in man's wear through 'Without ties'.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권3호
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• pp.39-48
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to examine closely the aesthetic characteristics featured in dandy's costume. Dandy was term used on for a man excessively fond of and overly concerned with clothes, exemplified by Beau Brummell, Lord Byron, and count d'Orsay, who greatly in gluenced men's fashions in England and France. In the late eighteenth and early nineteenth century George Brummell, the prototype of the dandy, made upper-class English country clothes, especially riding clothes, into the height of men's fashion in the city. In the early 1800s the alterations he made, particularly with regard to fit and cut, established these as the critical signifiers in men's dress. Brummell's style, particularly for day, was essentially restrained and disciplined, and set a standard for sober discretion, appropriateness and taste which governed men's clothing until well into the twentieth century. The aesthetic characteristics expressed in dandy's dress are the aristocratic superiority of mind, the restrained beauty in absolute simplicity, and the pursuit of the individual beauty. Brummell's kind of dandyism instigated the idea of establishing a new kind of aritocracy, an aritocracy based on talent. Over the years this kind of cultural and social coup has been played out in different ways but has remained, like the twentieth-century concept of the avant-garde, a fundamentally male preserve. He advocated unobtrusive darkblue fitted coats, cream-colored trousers, elaborately tied cravats, absence of showy fabrics or excessive decoration, and impeccable grooming. The status of the perfectly tied cravat as the hallmark of genteel elegance, as the last keystone of Fashion's arch, had been established by Beau Brummell.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제45권9호
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• pp.37-52
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• 2007

This research developed maternity wear designed with a focus on the essential functions necessary for working women and adaptable to their body changes during pregnancy. Through Martin's anthropometry for 201 pregnant women, the size specifications for maternity wear was determined and a dress form was proposed, in order to provide the manufacturer with reference data and a prototype to verify their products' fit and suitability. From a monthly analysis on the body measurements of pregnant women, significant monthly differences and after pregnancy were found in weight, chest girth, bust girth, under bust girth, waist girth, and hip girth. Dress form was designed based on the average body measurements of women in their 6th to 10th month of pregnancy. The standard dimensions in the 8th month were 90cm (chest), 94cm (bust), 86cm (under bust), 97cm(waist: most protruding part on the side), and 99cm (hip). Compared with Japan's MAT-9 (for nine months), chest girth was the same, while the Korean waist girth and hip girth were larger by 2cm and 3cm, respectively. The woven fabric blouse was evaluated as having the best appearance, while the knitted fabric one was judged as being more comfortable it terms of functionality. For the pants, the design details of the lowered waist and curved waist belt were more functional. The tailored jacket was the best design for working women in terms of both looks and functionality. To summarize, maternity wear for working women, unlike general maternity clothes, should be designed with consideration for the wearer's somatotype and activity. Elastic materials were appropriate for functionality and dealing with physical changes. With the increasing of working pregnant women, such trials are expected to continue in this research area in order to develop functional maternity wear with multi-purposes such as breast-feeding, wearability after delivery and shielding from microwave.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권1호
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• pp.44-56
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• 2007

The aim of this study is to provide fundamental data on the development of dress shirts pattern appropriate for the body types of athletes. The research subjects are 257 athletes from wrestling, bodybuilding, weight lifting, Judo, canoe, rowing. In regards to the category used in the measurement of bust somatotype, there are 48 types directly measured, 4 types indirectly measured, 7 types calculated and 1 bodyweight of type, making it 60 categories in total. The bust somatotype of a sports athlete and general person were compared together and after examining the characteristics of the bust somatotype, the somatotype of sports athlete was divided according to drop. The results of the study are as follows: 1. Questionnaire Results of the questionnaire showed that 63.4% of the respondents chose dress shirt as the most uncomfortable upper garment for athletes. And as for the result of the most uncomfortable body part turned out to be 'the neck is tight'. 2. Somatotype Analysis Results of direct, indirect measurement and the average somatotype of 97 National standard physique were compared. The characteristics of somatotype of athletes with well-developed upper body are that they are taller and have longer upper body and arms than the general person. And also the width of the trunk is wider, the girth bigger and the waist measure relatively slimmer. Looking at sports by category, it we could see that wrestlers were the largest neck parameter and width. Bodybuilders were the largest body parts for most categories. Weight lifting and Judo athletes were the largest waist and buttock. Canoe and rowing athletes were the largest height and arm parts. Dividing the somatotype of athletes according to drop, 72.8% of the research group belonged to the body type that resembled the letter Y.

• 복식
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• 제50권6호
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• pp.33-46
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate the consumers'evaluation for image and price of Saenghwal Hanbok. Data were collected by Questionnaire from 400 men and women living in Seoul area between August and September of 1998, and 374 questionnaires were analyzed by frequency, percentage, mean, standard deviation, t-test and factor analysis. As a result, consumers perceived Saenghwal Hanbok as 'comfortable' and 'individualistic' compared with western dress. Git(collar) and Gorum (ribbons) or Maedup(braided buttons) of Jeokori(jacket) were selected as having traditional image the most. 245 people(65%) answered that the general impression of Saenghwal Hanbok wearers was favorable. Saenghwal hanbok was thought to be appropriate when priced between 30,000 and 200,000 won per suit. And the intention to continue wearing Saenghwal Hanbok in the future was very positive.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권6호
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• pp.825-836
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• 2005

The purpose of this research is to analyze the harmony of contrast coloration of the traditional Korean dress as the subject of the study for women's college students in Korea and America. The sense of harmonious coloration for 64 colorations was evaluated based on a yellow and a green Korean jackets, to be contrast colorization, by combining four different tones, vivid, light, dull, and dark tones in a purple and a blue skirt with a yellow jacket, a red and a purple skirt with a green jacket. We tried to make sure of the cultural difference by the distinction in the perception of women's college students. in Korea and America. The result of the study is as follows. In the contrast coloration of a yellow jacket with a purple and a blue skirt, Korean women students, generally, perceived that the coloration that skirt is more dark than jacket, dull and dark tone is harmonious. On the other hand, American women students perceived harmonious skirt tone is various depending on the jacket tones. In the coloration of a green jacket and a red skirt, the women students of two countries are in common that the coloration of a vivid skirt with a vivid, a dull, and a dark jacket are harmonious. However, Korean women students indicated that a light jacket with a dark tone skirt as a harmonious coloration. American women students evaluated that various tones of coloration as a harmonious coloration. In the coloration of a green jacket and a purple skirt, Korean women students perceived that the coloration is incompatible coloration. American women students perceived the coloration is congruous in the coloration of a dull and a dark tone jacket and skirt. In the response of the perception for 64 contrast coloration, Korean students evaluated 14 sets and American students judged 28 sets as harmonized colors. Therefore, it drew the conclusion that Korean students had the sense of harmonious coloration of more narrow range than American students. There was a difference between two cultures in the standard far contrast coloration.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.423-429
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• 2013

This study helps out-size consumers purchase tops and improve the fitness of unde-weight women in their 20s-30s and by the establishment of a size system. The criteria for subjects in this study were those under 18.5($kg/m^2$) of the BMI; subsequently, a total of 233 females were enrolled. The results were: First, the nominal size for female adult formal dress suggested by the KS standard is suggested in 20 sections. The sections for underweight women are 7, (34 women who accounted for 14.59% out of 233 in total). The cover efficiency was 2.08% (which was very low). Second, tests showed that the average difference between the reference part body size of 7 sections for underweight women in the normal size section of bust cir.- hip cir.- height, and KS standard, waist cir. among reference sizes was rather small in the case of a nominal size for long height. Therefore, there is a significant difference with size in the KS standard and a sizing system proven improper for underweight woman. Third, the basic body sizes and reference body sizes were different due to the size system establishment according to measurements of underweight subjects. The research findings suggest that it is necessary to understand underweight types according to bust girth and hip girth sizes that represent basic sizes as well as to design patterns that consider the underweight body shape characteristics when women's tops are designed.

• 복식
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• 제56권5호
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• pp.29-43
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine a unique characteristic of the colors of the costumes in Korean basic culture in the aim of seeking the characteristics and the conceptual meanings of colors found in the majority’s culture. The scope of the basic culture was divided into folk belief, folk game and folk play. Within these limits, the colors of the dress, accessories, instruments were extracted by comparing with the naked eye in NCS Color System. For the analysis of hue and tone, the secondary dimensional analysis using NCS color system and the three-dimensional analysis using the software, COLOR 3D Version 2.0, were done. The result of this investigation is that the colors of the costume in the Korean basic culture are white, gray and black of achromatic color and yellow, yellowish red and purplish blue. This confirms that the colors based on Five-elements color are becoming the basis too basic culture. And Arche-pattern, which is a characteristic commonly found in the Korean traditional society, was shown as a characteristic of color. The colors of the costumes in Korean basic culture are uniquely adopted by the Korean civilians according to their religious and philosophical living standard. This study is meaningful in seeking a root for the formation of their unique color culture.

• 복식
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• 제58권4호
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• pp.13-25
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• 2008

This study is on the various style and characteristics of mask, and was performed empirically by reviewing the related materials such as the literature, precedent studies, fashion works, and home and foreign fashion magazines. As a result of the study, the style of mask in the modern fashion is roughly categorized by full-covered style, half-covered style, and over-half-covered style which is covered over 50% of a face. And, mask is utilized on a hat or a dress all over, or is produced by a elaborate makeup. Mask with lots of variation has three big characteristics, which are sense of disguise, sense of ornamentation, sense of grotesquery. First, sense of disguise means deviation or tool of affectation instead of cultural standard norm through transforming or masquerading as an imagery person or animal in ancient myths, famous artistes, etc. It could be developed to express a designer's identity. Second, mask decorated with various styles and materials has sense of ornamentation, which means natural human desire of expression for beauty, and at the same time human mind longing for experience a fantastic and ideal inner world being deviated from the present world even indirectly. Third, ignoring the original format of eyes, nose, and mouth, using extraordinarily various techniques such as distortion, extreme, exaggeration, concealment, or combining with animal images, mask has sense of grotesquery inducing humor and horror simultaneously.