• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.28-36
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• 2009

Many researches have been done to define the physical parameters for the wave generation and transformation over a coastal region. However, most of these have been limited to the application of particular conditions, as they are generally too empirical. To yield more reasonable wave estimation using a spectral wave model, it is important to understand how they work for the wave estimation. This study involved a comprehensive sensitivity test against the spectral resolution and the physical source/sink terms of the spectral wave model using SWAN and TOMAWAC, which have the same physical background with several different empirical/theoretical formulations. The tests were conducted for the East Anglian coast, UK, which is characterized by a complex bathymetry due to several shoals and offshore sandbanks. For the quantitative and qualitative evaluation of the models' performance with different input conditions, the wave elements and spectrums predicted at representative sites the East Anglia coast were compared/analyzed. The spectral resolution had no significant effect on the model results, but the lowest resolution on the frequency and direction induced underestimations of the wave height and period. The bottom friction and depth-induced breaking terms produced relatively high variations in the wave prediction, depending on which formulation was applied. The terms for the quadruplet and whitecapping had little effect on the wave estimation, whereas the triads tended to predict shorter and higher waves by energy transferring to higher frequencies.

• 한국항해항만학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국항해항만학회 2003년도 춘계공동학술대회논문집
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• pp.157-164
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• 2003

복잡한 수심을 가진 연안해역에서 조석, 바람과 파에 의해 발생된 흐름의 영향까지를 고려한 파랑모델의 도입은 대부분의 해안공학 설계나 방재 문제에 매우 중요한 요소이다. 근해역에서 수심변화에 의한 굴절 및 천수효과, 흐름에 의해 유발되는 굴절효과, 파형경사에 따른 쇄파, 회절, 바람에 의한 파의 성장, 파랑 상호간의 간섭 및 에너지 재분포 등을 다를 수 있다는 점에서 정상상태 스펙트럼 모델의 현장 적용은 지금까지 여러 모델이 다루지 못한 부분을 해소하게 될 것이다. 본 연구에서는 부만 신항만 건설이 이루어지고 있는 가덕인접의 및은 수역에 대해 파랑의 변환과정을 보다 합리적으로 해석하기 위해 스펙트럼 모델을 적용하고 기존의 모델 결과와 비교 분석하는 것을 골자로 하고 있다. 이러한 시도가 가까운 장래에 항만설계 및 방재시스템 분야에서 보다 안전하고 널리 스펙트럼 모델을 적용하게 하는 계기가 되도록 의도하였다.

• 한국항해항만학회지
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• 제28권1호
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• pp.97-104
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• 2004

복잡한 수심을 가진 연안해역에서 조석, 바람과 파랑에 의해 발생된 흐름의 영향까지를 고려한 파랑모델의 도입은 대부분의 해안공학 설계나 방재 문제에 매우 중요한 요소이다. 근해역에서 수심변화에 의한 굴절 및 천수효과, 흐름에 의해 유발되는 굴절효과, 파형경사에 따를 쇄파, 회절, 바람에 의한 파의 성장, 파랑 상호간의 간섭, 파랑과 흐름의 상호 간섭 및 에너지 재분포 등을 다룰 수 있다는 점에서 정상상태 스펙트럼 모델의 현장 전용은 지금까지 여러 모델이 다루지 못한 부분을 해소하게 될 것이다. 본 연구에서는 부산 신항만 건설이 이루어지고 있는 가덕인접의 넓은 수역에 대해 파랑의 변환과정을 보다 합리적으로 해석하기 위해 스펙트럼 모델을 적용하고 기존의 모델 결과와 비교 분석하는 것을 골자로 하고 있다. 이러한 시도가 가까운 장래에 항만설계 및 방재시스템 분야에서 보다 안전하고 널리 스펙트럼 모델을 적용하게 하는 계기가 되도록 의도하였다.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.20-27
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• 2001

After using the filtering method, wave parameters are calculated by the spectral analysis and wave by wave analysis. Extreme environments and higher wave characteristics int he Chujeon Sea are analyzed using the observed wave data. Higher wave has been intensely emphasized as an important environmental force parameter in several recent research works. The aims of this study are to summarize the distribution of extreme environment for wind waves, and to find occurrence probability of higher wave in Chujeon Sea. Ocean wave statistics varying with sea state are found to respond linearly to the spectral peakedness parameter Qp, mean run-length and Ursell number. Although the spreading of the field results is large, it may be concluded that the tendency of wave group formation depends on the spectral peakedness parameter Qp. Extreme wave is estimated to apply various model distribution functions by using the monthly maximum significant wave parameters which can be used to the design and analysis of coastal structures.

• Journal of Advanced Research in Ocean Engineering
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.124-134
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• 2018

In this study, when the stability of the structure against the ocean wave is considered for designing the offshore structures in the Pacific, Indian ocean and Atlantic regions where the cyclone is largely generated, the ocean wave caused by the cyclone as well as the storm surge which called wind induced wave shall be predicted accurately for the purpose of judgment. The predicted wind induced wave was evaluated by comparing the outcome results the model test of Nobuhiro Matsunaga (1996) and Conventional Experiment forms such as Jonswap spectral forms(Carter, 1982), Simplified Donelan / Jonswap forms(Wilson 1965), Donelan spectral forms(Donelan 1980), Revised SPM forms(Schafer Lake 2005, 2007, 2008), SPM forms(CERC 1977), the CEM forms(Kazeminezhad et al., 2005), SMB forms(Sverdrup Munk and Bretschneider 1947,1954, 1970), and Revised Wilson forms(Wilson 1965, Goda 2003). Most of these conventional experiment forms confirmed a good match when the fetch length is less than 10 km. However, normal cyclone fetch length is more than 100km, With this fetch length, the comparison result is 10.4% of deviation when used Jonswap spectral forms(Carter, 1982) but the deviation of the other forms is around 74% due to boundary limit of fetch and wind duration. Therefore, in this study, we proposed the revised forms after comparing these results with the model results. We confirmed that the deviation range is around 10% based on revisited experiment forms. Since the model test was carried out in the small water tank, the scale up factor was applied to the mode test results in order to obtain similar results to the actual environment from revisited forms.

• Structural Engineering and Mechanics
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• 제61권4호
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• pp.551-561
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• 2017

As FGM (functionally graded material) bars which vibrate in axial or longitudinal direction have great potential for applications in diverse engineering fields, developing a reliable mathematical model that provides very reliable vibration and wave characteristics of a FGM axial bar, especially at high frequencies, has been an important research issue during last decades. Thus, as an extension of the previous works (Hong et al. 2014, Hong and Lee 2015) on three-layered FGM axial bars (hereafter called FGM bars), an enhanced spectral element model is proposed for a FGM bar model in which axial and radial displacements in the radial direction are treated more realistic by representing the inner FGM layer by multiple sub-layers. The accuracy and performance of the proposed enhanced spectral element model is evaluated by comparison with the solutions obtained by using the commercial finite element package ANSYS. The proposed enhanced spectral element model is also evaluated by comparison with the author's previous spectral element model. In addition, the effects of Poisson's ratio on the dynamics and wave characteristics in example FGM bars are numerically investigated.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.87-95
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• 2000

스펙트럼 천해파 모델을 두 가지의 다른 조위조건을 각기 합성하여 경기만 해역에 적용하였다 첫 번째의 조석과 파운동의 합성으로 일정 조위시 파운동의 파수보존식과 에너지 보존식만을 이용한 파랑수치모델링이다. 이와같은 일정조위시에는 조류가 존재하지 않는다 두 번째 조합은 조석의 연속방정식과 운동량방정식 파운동의 파수보존식과 에너지 보존식을 동적으로 연계한 수치 모델링이다. 전해역에 조위를 일정하게 지정하였을 때 주요 참고 지점의 유의 파고 및 파향 등을 검토하였고 조석과 파랑을 연계수치 모델링하였을때에 산정되는 유의 파고와 파향 등을 일정 조위로 가정하고 산정되는 결과와 비교 분석하여 제시하였다 이러한 수치모형의 계산결과시 조석조건에 따라 파고 및 파향의 변이가 심대하게 다를 수 있음을 확인하였다.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제37권1호
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• pp.20-30
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• 2023

Modeling a nonlinear ocean wave is one of the primary concerns in ocean engineering and naval architecture to perform an accurate numerical study of wave-structure interactions. The high-order spectral (HOS) method, which can simulate nonlinear waves accurately and efficiently, was investigated to see its capability for nonlinear wave generation. An open-source (distributed under the terms of GPLv3) project named "HOS-ocean" was used in the present study. A parametric study on the "HOS-ocean" was performed with three-hour simulations of long-crested ocean waves. The considered sea conditions ranged from sea state 3 to sea state 7. One hundred simulations with fixed computational parameters but different random seeds were conducted to obtain representative results. The influences of HOS computational parameters were investigated using spectral analysis and the distribution of wave crests. The probability distributions of the wave crest were compared with the Rayleigh (first-order), Forristall (second-order), and Huang (empirical formula) distributions. The results verified that the HOS method could simulate the nonlinearity of ocean waves. A set of HOS computational parameters was suggested for the long-crested irregular wave simulation in sea states 3 to 7.

• 한국지구과학회지
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.7-21
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• 2003

The state-of-art third generation wave prediction model WAM was applied to the Korean seas for a winter monsoon period of January 1997. The wind field used in the present study is the global NSCAT-ERS/NCEP blended winds, which was further interpolated using a bi-cubic spline interpolator to fine grid limited area shallow water regime surrounding the Korean seas. To evaluate and investigate the accuracy of WAM, the hindcasted wave heights are compared with observed data from two shallow water buoys off Chil-Bal and Duk-Juk. A detailed study has been carried with the various meteorological parameters in observed buoy data and its inter-dependency on model computed wave fields was also investigated. The RMS error between the observation and model computed wave heights results to 0.489 for Chil-Bal and 0.417 for Duk-Juk. A similar comparison between the observation and interpolated winds off Duk-Juk show RMS error of 2.28 which suggest a good estimate for wave modelling studies.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.303-312
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• 2007

주파수영역에서 쇄파로 인한 에너지 소산에 관한 그 동안의 논쟁은 주파수의 함수인 소산항의 구체적 형태를 중심으로 진행되어왔다. 본 연구에서는 추계학적 쇄파모형과 이에 기초한 스펙트럼으로부터 소산항을 유추하였다. 기존의 인식과는 상이하게 소산항은 주파수의 삼차함수인 것으로 판단된다. 검증작업은 SUPERTANK Laboratory Data Collection Project(Krauss et al., 1992)에서 축적된 실험자료를 기초로 진행되었다. 추가적인 검증을 위해 단조해안에서의 Cnoidal 파랑의 천수과정을 스펙트럼 파랑모형과 제시된 쇄파모형을 차용하여 수치모의하였다. 그 결과 쇄패대역에서 진행되는 파랑의 왜도와 비대칭성의 진화과정이 비교적 정확히 모의되는 성과를 얻었다.