• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.95-104
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• 2018

This study classified the figurative features of the raglan sleeves presented in the Spring and Summer Collections and Fall and Winter Collections abroad in 2010 and 2018 and analyzed the production methods and patterns of the classified raglan sleeves. The analysis results are described below. The raglan sleeves in the latest fashion trends were classified into Type H, Type A, Type O and Type Y per shape. The production features of raglan sleeves in the latest fashion trends included the cutting lines in various shapes, a flounce that made shoulders look wider, and decorations such as gathers, studs, punching, slits, pleats and tucks. The raglan sleeve design was classified into Yoke Raglan, Armhole Princess Raglan, Semi Raglan, Gathered Raglan, Pleats Raglan, Cowl Raglan, Origami Raglan, Circular Curved Raglan, Capes Raglan and Constructive Design Raglan and the patterns per design were presented. For creative and experimental clothing by the analysis of the features of raglan sleeve structure, a variety of configuration methods need to be developed and implemented. The analysis results of this study will contribute to the development of the fashion industry through small quantity batch production pursuing unique styles as the basis for further study on the configuration methods of raglan sleeves. This study will be used in various ways as education materials on sleeve patterns in the educational field. Through the analysis of sleeve patterns, this study tries to provide basic data for planning the design of raglan sleeves and helping to diversify the ladies' apparel market in the future.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.109-121
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• 2012

This study aims at developing ergonomics patterns for the sleeve of structural firefighting protective clothing through 3D motion analysis in order to ensure efficiency and safety of firefighters who are exposed to harmful environment at work. A new research pattern was developed by applying the total results of 3D motion analysis, changes of body surface length measurements, and 2D data on 3D body shape analysis on the size 3 patterns of the existing coat sleeve. For the sleeves, we used the body surface length of the range of shoulder's flexion and the joint angle of the range of wrist's ulnar deviation. And for the production of structural firefighting protective clothing using the research pattern, we recruited a recognized producer of structural firefighting protective clothing designated by KFI. Unlike everyday clothes, structural firefighting protective clothing should be able to fully protect the wearers from the harmful environment that threatens their lives and should not cause any restrictions on their movement. Therefore, the focus of research and development of such protective clothing should be placed on consistent development of new technologies and production methods that will provide protection and comfort for the wearer rather than production cost reduction or operational efficiency. This study is meaningful as it applied 3D motion analysis instead of the existing methods to develop the patterns. In particular, since 3D motion analysis enables the measurement of the range of motion, there should be continuous research on the development of ergonomics patterns that consider workers' range of motion.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.82-91
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences of visual effects by variations in the shoulder length and puff volume of the puff sleeve blouse. The stimuli are 21 samples: 3 variations of the shoulder length and 7 variations of the puff volume. The data has been obtained from 40 fashion design majors. The data has analyzed by Frequency, Factor Analysis, ANOVA, Scheffe's test and MCA method. The result of the study are as follows. The visual effects by the shoulder length and puff volume are composed of 4 factors : the width of the upper body, the shape of the breast part, the shape of the neck part and the shape of the upper arm. In these factors, the width of the upper body is estimated by most important factor. In view of the visual effects by variation of the shoulder length, the shorter shoulder length goes, the more positive visual image comes in the shape of the breast part. In comparison of the differences of visual effects by the 7 variations of puff volume, the arm looks thin and long when the puff volume goes enough and the breast part has a better visual assesment in case the puff volume goes poor. In the interaction effects between the shoulder length and puff volume, the shoulder length have significant differences in the shape of the breast part, the shape of the neck part and the shape of the upper arm and puff volume has significant difference in the width of the upper body.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제21권2호
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• pp.299-314
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to explore effects of pattern alteration using a virtual clothing simulation approach in combination with 3D analysis software. Three raglan sleeves of different patterns were worn by an avatar using virtual clothing simulation with silk and cotton as the test fabrics. It was observed that the silhouette and hemline shape were affected differently based on raglan sleeve pattern and fabric type. By examining clothing pressure distribution, the cotton fabric designs and pattern shapes provided for a variety of influences on armhole and bust regions as well as the back sleeve area. For representative locations, cross section circumstance, cross section area, and volume were measured by using 3D analysis and the resulting correlation between the 2D and 3D data were investigated. Among different fabrics, there was little difference between the 2D and 3D clothing surface area. However, when using 3D analysis, clothing volume was significantly affected by different fabrics and pattern types. By simultaneously adopting the virtual simulator and 3D analysis, quantitative assessment of virtual clothing simulation was successfully conducted. In light of the results of this study, the resulting methodology is expected to be used as a comprehensive evaluation tool for virtual clothing simulation wear testing.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.21-32
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• 1981

Clothing must have the individual beauty and the function that one can do one's body movement freely. therefore, from the human engineering view point, the exact measurement of the human body and the analysis of it's results must be applied to clothing because the arm works most. In this study, the skin surface of arm was investigated by shell made of Alginate of each movement. And by sometic method the rate of expansion and contraction of each section, inter-relation among the bust girth, axillary arm girth and scye girth and between the shoulder length right and the under axilla waist length were calculate4d. With these results, cap height, breadth of a sleeve and arm hole girth of existing sleeve pattern have been compared and analysed. The results are as follows; 1) According to the developmental figures of shell, the whole area change was small but that of shape was remarkable in M 4, 9, 13. The change of the Block 1 was particular. 2) Over arm length was contracted in all movements except M6 and under arm length expanded. The changes of sections a, b, c are large, while those of sections d, e are small. 3) In terms of latitudes, change of fore-arm region was small. The rate of scye girth varied from 14.3% of M13 to-5.6% of M2. The breadth of a sleeve expanded in all movements, and especially the front region expanded more than the back. 4) The relation between the shoulder length right and under axilla waist length, in all occasions, was contracted mutually, and one contracted, the other expanded. Therefore, in clothing construction when we consider the function of the arm it is better to widen the arm hole and the breadth of a sleeve at the same time than no widen the shoulder length by lowering the upper part of the upper side seam line.

• Journal of Welding and Joining
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• 제33권1호
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• pp.87-93
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• 2015

This study was performed to develop repair technology for J-Groove dissimilar metal weld of pressurizer heater sleeve in nuclear power plants. Pad, J-Groove automatic welding and mechanical machining equipments to develop repair technology using 'Half Nozzle Repair' were designed and manufactured. To obtain the optimum welding process parameters during Pad temperbead overlay welding, several welding experiments using Taguchi method were conducted. Weldability of Pad overlay weld specimens was estimated by PT/RT test, FE-SEM, EDS and Vickers hardness test. Also, J-Groove welding to adjust weld shape conditions requiring in ASME Code was carried out and its integrity of weld specimens was evaluated through PT/RT test and optical microscope. Consequently, it was revealed that Pad and J-Groove overlay welding for dissimilar metal weld of pressurizer heater sleeve could be possible to meet Code standard without weld defect.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.91-103
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• 2014

Shirts which have been a inner-wear in men's suit in the past, are being changed into an item that 20's men utilize to their individuality. Dress shirts have gotten out of its shape, becoming tight and slim with activity and fashion trend. In this study, two patterns of fitted dress shirts in a clothing construction text book were compared with the pattern of an apparel company with regard to the size tolerance and appearance silhouette; this comparison was performed through a fitting test and an appearance evaluation. According to the study, size tolerance of chest girth and waist girth were about 6~8cm and 10~18cm, respectively. Neck girth of the collar was tight in both the fitting test and appearance evaluation. Thus, the measurement value of the neck base girth had to be used for the collar pattern making. Moreover, approximately 35cm is a moderate size for the width on the upper arm in sleeve. Therefor the factors such as size tolerance of waist girth, height of sleeve cap, slim sleeve width and measurement value of neck base girth are being considered for the pattern making of fitted dress shirts.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.460-472
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• 2011

This paper developed motifs through the use of images of masks with which the Korean innate consciousness of aesthetics is expressed. The motifs were applied to fashion items. This paper investigated the concept, origin and types of traditional masks through the existing literature. Using the computer graphic programs of Illustrator and Photoshop CS2, three basic motifs were set from the images of the nobleman, Bune of Hahoi Tal and Byeongsan Tal. Each motif was extended into two motifs by changing shape and color. For the basic motif design, this study sought to express contemporary images, suitably for each fashion item, while maintaining the basic shape of the masks and their traditional images. In addition, this study set the concept of the design so that could be accepted by various age groups. For the design of handkerchiefs, a rotating array, involving enlargement, reduction, repetition, and the gradation of motifs, as well as a diagonal symmetric array, and all-over patterns were developed. The T-shirt design created here was divided into a half-sleeve box type, a round neckline sleeveless type, a V-neckline close-fitting sleeveless type, and a V-neckline close-fitting cap sleeve type. For the design of necklaces, OLED or LED, which are considered as a future display type, was used. Additionally, the production of an entertainment styled new atmosphere is proposed.

• 복식
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• 제23권
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• pp.211-223
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• 1994

It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the one hundred and ten pictures of the writtened Budist scripture. The costume to study were made about 400 years during the King Mok-jong(1006) to the first year of the king Kong-yang based upon the Avatamaka Sutra and the Sutra of the Lotus. 가) Men's wear : 1. Hair style and hair dress : 1) Man bored a hair and put on the hat such as a Kuan, Kun, and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knots, and tied up with a hair ribbon. A kinds of hats were Tung-t'ien-kuan(Yuan-yu-kuan) and Chin-hien-kuan and as a court dress. The man wore pok-여 as an official uniform and wore a pok-du , kun-mo as an everyday dress and wore a helmet as a solidier's uniform. 2. Clothes : 1) They wore Yuan-yu-kuan and Chin-hien -kuan as a court dress, and wore belt, boots, pleated decorated ling skirt also. They wore round shape collor big sleeve jacket, small sleeve long coat, belt , boots as an official dress. 2) the soldiers wore helmet, scarf, yangdang-kap , hung-kap, bak-kap, we-yo-kap, kun-kap and jok-kap and carries arms. 3) The young boys bind his hair up one, two and three angle shape an tied up a hair ribbons. 나) Women's wear : 1. Hair Style and hair dress : high rank ladies made their hair top knot (one, two, or more knots) and tied with hair ribbons , and decorated with precious stone, pan shape head dress , wheel shape head dress. 2. Clothes ; 1) high rank ladie's wore kun -kyun attached jacket , and jacket sleeves decorated pleats and pleats decorated on skirt, apron, back apron, knot belt, scarf.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제49권8호
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• pp.63-71
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• 2011

The excavated costume of Jangheung Ma's included jeogoris, skirts, and pants, and a jungchimak(중치막), jangot(장옷), cheolrik(철릭), and jikryeong(직령). Most of the items were made of silk and cotton. The clothes for shrouding were plainer than those found in other regions. The method of sewing was mostly broad-stitching, but backstitch, hem tacking and decorative saddle stitching were also used. Unlined clothes were made with on old method of sewing(옛쌈솔), which was used mainly in the early period of the Chosun dynasty. Dating of the excavated costume can be determined by examining the collar of the Korean coat or jacket, the shape and form of sleeve, the size of the sub, and the form of gusset. Straight, diagonal, and broad sleeves were the most commonlyused shapes of sleeve in the middle period of $17^{th}$ century. In the latter period of Chosun, the trend moved towards a single-sub.