• 복식
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• 제57권5호
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• pp.58-71
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• 2007

This study conducted a survey to find out atopic dermatitis patients' required performance and preference in design factors to develop spring/summer(S/S) knitwears preferred by atopic patients. On the platform of achieved information from statistical analysis, S/S knitwear samples for atopic patients were designed and constructed with cotton/Seacell(R) blended yarn, And subjective wearing sensation were evaluated comparing the samples and the commercial products made with cotton/chitosan blended yarn, trying to help producing more comfortable S/S knitwears for atopic patients. SPSS 12.0 program was used for frequency analysis, Chi-square analysis, ANOVA, and Duncan test. The result was as follows; For comfort of S/S knitwears, atopic patients most considered skin care property. Atopic patients preferred simple and basic knitwear in light color with thin and soft fabric such as plain knit. The preferred style was that 'appropriately fit with suitable ease'. They also preferred 'closed front'; 'boat neckline' and 'V neckline'; 'raglan sleeve' and 'set-in sleeve'. For hem trim, they preferred 'rib' structure. Male preferred simple and plain style with 'round collar' and 'tubular or rib trim", while female preferred sophisticated and characteristic style with 'set-in sleeve' with 'rib trim'. Under the circumstances with insufficient functional knitwears developed, this study tried to develop comfort S/S knitwears for atopic dermatitis patients and the developed knitwears showed as good as or better performance in wearing feeling, fitting, and appearance than the previously developed functional goods.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.97-103
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• 2008

This research thesis is designed to put Korean traditional and unique wedding dress with a greater significance and value than any other dress into application right for the global and contemporary trend, as part of a bid to show Korean traditional beauty. To do it, this thesis has attempted to add the traditional beauty to Korean inherent wedding dress and contemporary wedding dress, with the use of various traditional beauty elements, such as the line firm, materials and color based on the research on wedding dress, such as, 'Wonsam' or 'Unlined Jacket, and 'Long-sleeve Red Silk Jacket', and 'Dangeu' or 'Court Suit' that women wore in the Joseon Dynasty. To recreate Korean traditional beauty of line this research thesis has firstly put into the application the sleeve of 'Wonsam' or 'Unlined Jacket' and the form of a large section of 'Wonsam' of 'Unlined Jacket', and 'Doreyon Line' or 'Trimming Line' of 'Dangeu' or 'Court Suit' as wedding dress that women wore in the Joseon Dynasty. Secondly, this thesis has applied lotus and peony patterns out of traditional ones inlaid with 'Long-Sleeve Silk Jacket' into the contemporary wedding dress to develop a creative and special design. Thirdly, regarding the expressive pattern technique, this thesis has designed the repetitive rhythmical pattern with the use of beading technique and embroidery technique, which makes needle work picture and pattern in fabric. Lastly, it can demonstrate the original and distinct Korean style in application of western wedding dress into traditional and contemporary dress, by devising two collections of dress art pieces.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.275-284
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• 2014

This study aims to suggest the patternmaking method of men's slim-fit four-panel jacket sloper in their 30's. The researcher collected four kinds of existing slopers and carried out appearance and movement evaluations twice. Then the researcher's sloper was developed by modifying and supplementing the existing sloper with high scores in the evaluations. The results are as follows: First, when comparing the existing slopers, ease on the chest varied from 13 cm to 17.8 cm. Actual measurements or formula method were used for the armhole depth, waist line, and hip line. It was one-third of armhole length for the sleeve cap height in most existing slopers. Second, the researcher's sloper had excellent scores in the appearance and movement evaluations (front neck depth, ease on the chest, front dropped length, ease on the sleeve cap, and the position that separate the two piece sleeves on the back). Third, the suggested sloper, has 13~14 cm for ease in the chest circumference and 2.5 cm for front dropped length. It sets to chest/4+2 cm for armhole depth, height/4+1 cm for waist line placement, and height/8 for hip length. The sleeve cap height is one-third of armhole length. These results will be useful when the industrial technical designers develop various jacket patterns.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.274-280
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• 1990

This paper is intended to grasp the characteristics of many bodices patterns which have been shown so far. The way is by selecting four characteristic kinds of patterns, making blouses offer the patterns and measuring ease. In measuring the degree of ease, $Scheff\`{e}'s$ paired comparison is made use of. In analysis, variation ratio has come out of analysis of variance, and significance is tested by producing estimated values between patterns. The Result is summed up as follows. 1. After wearing blouses made ofter different basic patterns and measuring ease, the analysis of variance is made about the sensory value of ease. The result is as follows. 1) In the ease of different patterns, all the areas are significant at the level of $1\%$ , regard- less of movements. 2) Under the influence of movements, the back area of arm hole is significant at the level of $5\%$ in narrow movements, and the front and the back area of arm hole are each significant at the level of $1\%$ in wide movements. 3) In the interaction of patterns and movements, bust and the under area of arm hole are each significant at the level of $1\%$ in narrow movements, and bust is significant at the level of $1\%$ in wide movements. 2. When comparing estimated values between patterns, the value of c is the largest and in the order of b,4, a. And in the other movements, the order changes into c,d, b and a. Thus the ease of blouses is different according to patterns. The reason for this is that the amount of ease of bust, the amount and location of darts, and sleeve cap height have complicate influences on the ease of blouses. Both sleeve cap height and the depth of arm hole have influences on the ease of sleeve. Consequently, in making clothes, it would be better to select and use proper patterns which go with the purposes and desings of clothes rather than to apply one pattern to various clothes.

• Tribology and Lubricants
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• 제25권5호
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• pp.330-334
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• 2009

Hydraulic servo cylinders have been used to control accurately a large machine in power plant. Especially, Piston head and bush of servo cylinder is assembled sleeve and piston head and bush made of Cu alloy and pad sealing part. A damages of sleeve and piston head, bush are caused by friction and wear. Thus, It is necessary to examine friction and wear characteristics of Cu alloys for the piston head and bush. In this study, to be reliable on the piston and cylinder parts, dry friction and wear experiments were carried out with Cu alloys of four kinds of AlBC, PBC, BC and BS using reciprocating friction tester of pin on disk type. From this study, the result was shown that the AlBC and PBC with alloy elements were excellent to resistance wear. As the sliding speed was increased, the wear loss of PBC decreased than another Cu alloy.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.637-646
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• 2016

The goal of this study is to provide basic data on developing circular knit basic pattern for women in their 20's. Production conditions of circular knit product pattern making among domestic women's apparel industry was researched, and collected data on sizes and ease amounts from woven and circular knit pattern were compared and analyzed. According to the result of the survey, product measurements adjusted to the actual body size fit for the brand's image were used, and the common problem among manufacturers and consumers regarding circular knit products turned out to be change in size and form due to stretching. For the basic pattern of circular knit, stretching quality was reflected in the woven basic pattern based on plain stitch(single knit) and then dart was removed and ease amount was reduced. The result of looking into size and ease amount about woven and circular knit torso & sleeve block shows that there is a significant difference among chest circumference, hip circumference, bi-shoulder length, interscye back, interscye front, scye depth, upper arm circumference and wrist circumference, and it was clear that circumference and width on the areas around the wrist tended to fit around the body more when circular knit was used instead of woven fabric.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.137-147
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• 2010

This study set out to make experimental clothes by giving variations to the connecting part of a seamless sweater, propose designs and composition approaches to improve the wearing sensation and satisfaction with appearance through wearing trials, and provide basic data that would be of practical help to follow-up study on seamless knit and the growth of seamless knit in the Korean knit industry. The connecting part is the biggest characteristic and the most important part in seamless knitwear and affect the functionality and fitness of the clothes and the appearance of the armhole. The investigator thus made five different pieces of experimental clothes according to the composition methods for connecting part and put them to the test by a group of experts for appearance assessment. The assessment results were analyzed through Analysis of variance(ANOVA), and the items with similar results were put to the Duncan test for intergroup comparison. According to the analysis results, experimental clothes C and E received the highest evaluation in almost every assessment item, whereas experimental clothes A did the lowest appearance evaluation.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.930-942
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• 1996

This study was done to provide the characteristics of body surface changes at armhole area. Experiments were carried out at upper arm and upper body inchuding 67 items, 74 segments by the stanard posture and arm movements. The subjects were 15 females of twenty aged. The major conclusions of this study are; 1. On the circumference items of upper arm, armhole circumference was decreased by all arm movement, especially high contracted on front armhole line. The most contracted segments of armhole circumference were from the shonlder point to front and back interscye breadth point. Axillary circumference was increased 5 cm to the utmost, so the function of sleeve pattern would be decided by axillary circumference. 2. The lengths of upper arm were decreased near center line, sleeve cap length was contracted 3∼4 cm. Posterior armpit point area was increased both length and breadth. According to the rates of expansion and contraction, the diagram of expansion and contraction of upper arm was suggested. 3. On upper body, back side chest breadth was increased exceedingly and shoulder length was decreased most. It was apparent that surface changes of upper body were greatly larger as far away from center front and center back line. The rates of expansion and contraction of upper body were also represented as a diagram of surface changes.

• 복식
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• 제1권
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• pp.101-117
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• 1977

This thesis is a study of the Simui(深衣) system which was a dress regulation peculiar to old China with skirt and coat. The origin of Simui is a very long time, that is, before Ju dynasty in China. Its wearing range had a large circle irrespective of rank and good or bad luck. This was a ordinary dress to the Emperor or the lords, a below court attire or a below sacrificial rites attire to the illustrious officials, and good luck dress to the common people. But this was a funeral rites attire or coming-of-age ceremony attire in domestic behaviour. In the times of Song dynasty, lots of confucian scholars had put on this simui because of Juhi's recommendation for domestic behaviour. This Simui had been put on through all the times of China and was the original text of all the dress. Especially the court attire and silkworm working dress of Empress, and the court attire and underwear court attire of Emperor is also made out of this Simui, therefore this is a origin of the ceremonial dress which formed into long coat. In Korea it is said that this Simui was brought in prior to the middle of Goryeo dynasty. But we can't tell the correct transmitted age. According to the following records in Goryeo History, "King had put on the Simui as a sacrificial rite attire in the times of Yejong". It is sure that this Simui was brought in prior to the times of Yejong. In fact, lots of confucian scholars had put on the Simui since the introduction of confucianism in the end of Goryeo dynasty and after that time this was taken by many confucian scholars through Yi dynasty. Korean Simui system was complied with Chinese system through confucian domestic behaviour, This was respected for court dress of confucian scholars, as it were, Chumri, (an ordinary dress of scholars), Nansam (a uniform of upper student), and Hakchangui (a uniform of confucian student). There are many deta about Simui system in the book of Yeki, chapter Okcho and Simui, and other many canfucian books. But we didn't demonstrate the theory about it till now. Especially there are diversifies of opinions about the phrase of "Sok Im Ku Byun" in Yeki. Simui was cut in separate and then was stitched together in one piece. Generally its shape had round sleeve and angled lapel, its length reaches to the anklebone. And it has a line around the lapel, the sleeve band, and the edge of skirt. It is called Simui because the body can be wrapped deeply in broad width and large sleeve. The Simui was made of white fine linen and was cut by the natural size of body. Every part of Simui had a profound meaning; the round sleeve in compliance with regulation can keep a courtesy when a walker moves his hands and the angled lapel like a carpenter's square in compliance with square keeps them front loosing their Justice and a string of the back also keeps them loosing from their righteousness and the flat lower part of Simui makes their heart and mind calm. This Simui was usually attendant on a head cover and belt made cloth, and black shoes. This thesis was made a study of documents and portrait from Yi dynasty, for the actual object was not obtained.

• 대한기계학회논문집A
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• 제41권11호
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• pp.1021-1033
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• 2017

본 연구에서는 매설가스배관의 강 슬리브 보수 용접부에 대한 피로수명에 미치는 보수 용접 공정 변수별 영향을 고찰하여 최적 공정을 수립하였다. 상용 유한요소 해석프로그램인 ABAQUS를 이용한 연계 연성 온도-응력 해석을 통해 강 슬리브 보수용접 시 보수용접부에 발생하는 용접 잔류응력을 도출하였다. 또한, 유한요소 선형탄성 응력해석을 통해 운전응력 변이도 도출하였다. 도출된 용접 잔류응력과 운전응력 변이를 입력값으로써 구조응력/파괴역학 접근법에 대입하여 강 슬리브 보수용접부의 피로수명을 평가하였다. 다양한 보수용접 공정 변수에 대한 유한요소해석과 피로평가를 수행하여 공정변수별 피로수명에 미치는 영향을 고찰하였다. 최종적으로는 고찰한 피로수명에 미치는 공정변수별 영항 결과를 토대로 공정 및 경제적 비용을 최소화하고 피로수명을 적절히 향상시킬 수 있는 최적 방안을 도출하였다.