• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.353-360
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• 1999

An investigation made of the variations of angle of bias on the top of the sleeve cap curve line and calculated easing contraction ratio by capheights(A ; a,h$\times$5,/6) B: A, H/4 +4cm C:A.H/3 D: A.H/ 4+3cm E:AH/4+2cm, F: A,H/4+1cm, G: A,H/4, H:A,H/6, I:A,H/8) and the efects of easing contraction on the cap curve lines of sleeve A, D, G by easing stitch density with the gathering foot: sewing condition-lockstitch industrial machine stitch density(N1.0 ; 38stitches/3cm N1.5: 26stitches/3cm, N2.0 ; 19stitches/3cm, N2.5 ; 14stitches/ 3cm) The results obtained were as follows; 1) The variations of the angle of bias on the top of the sleeve cap curve line by cap heights can be done according to the angle balance (front; $\alpha$-$\beta$ back ; $\alpha$'- $\beta$') between the angle (front ;$\alpha$, $\beta$, back ; $\alpha$'- $\beta$') of bias of the two base-lines. 2) The higher cap height the more higher the calculated easing contraction ratio. 3) The lower the stitch density the higher easing contraction ratio. 4) The effects of easing contraction was that sleeve G was more than sleeve A, D.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제13권7호
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• pp.131-140
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• 2013

여성복에 있어서 09/10년 시즌에 가장 주목할 만한 특징은 파워 숄더 룩이다. 파워 숄더 룩은 단순히 패션니스타들에서만이 아니라 당당히 스트리트 패션의 하나로 자리 잡았으며 파워 숄더 룩의 50%이상을 차지하는 재킷이 여성복의 핵심 아이템의 하나로 부활하면서 재킷의 어깨 각도는 0도에서 30도 이상까지 다양하게 나타난다. 다양한 어깨 각도 중 10도, 15도, 20도의 형태가 70%이상을 차지하고 있으며 패턴의 형태는 몸판의 어깨선을 자연스럽게 올리고 확장한 어깨변형 패턴, 어깨선과 함께 소매산 부분을 절개한 소매산 변형 패턴, 몸판과 소매가 연결된 패턴이 주를 이루고 있다. 파워 숄더 패턴 전개는 어깨 각도가 높아질수록 각이 시작되는 점이 목옆점에 가깝게 하고 어깨끝점이 확장되어야 소매의 외관형태가 편안하고 피트성이 좋아진다. 어깨 변형의 경우 앞뒤 진동선의 시작점인 어깨점과 소매산의 정점 부분의 선이 완만하게 이어지도록 S라인형태를 유지하는 것이 가장 중요하며 소매산의 ease분량이 일반 재킷 소매보다 많아야 파워 숄더 실루엣이 자연스럽게 연출된다. 소매변형 패턴은 중심쪽 소매의 소매산 높이는 기본소매 소매산높이의 1.5cm를 외곽 소매분량으로 처리한 것을 고려하여 소매산 높이를 설정하고 어깨 각이 커질수록 외곽소매의 소매산 폭을 크게 함으로서 소매의 어깨점이 목옆점 방향으로 휘지 않고 각이 선 파워 숄더가 완성된다. 소매변형과 소매와 몸판연결 패턴의 경우 어깨점과 상완이 연결되는 부분에 충분한 여유가 필요하며 어깨각도도 다른 형태에 비해 상대적으로 낮아 보인다. 이와 같이 파워 숄더 재킷 패턴은 패턴 제작시 디자인적인 요소를 충분히 감안한 패턴 설계와 함께 소매의 달림선 위치, 어깨너비, 어개 높이 확장량, 소매통의 여유량 등을 고려하여 제작하는 것이 바람직하다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.275-284
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• 2014

This study aims to suggest the patternmaking method of men's slim-fit four-panel jacket sloper in their 30's. The researcher collected four kinds of existing slopers and carried out appearance and movement evaluations twice. Then the researcher's sloper was developed by modifying and supplementing the existing sloper with high scores in the evaluations. The results are as follows: First, when comparing the existing slopers, ease on the chest varied from 13 cm to 17.8 cm. Actual measurements or formula method were used for the armhole depth, waist line, and hip line. It was one-third of armhole length for the sleeve cap height in most existing slopers. Second, the researcher's sloper had excellent scores in the appearance and movement evaluations (front neck depth, ease on the chest, front dropped length, ease on the sleeve cap, and the position that separate the two piece sleeves on the back). Third, the suggested sloper, has 13~14 cm for ease in the chest circumference and 2.5 cm for front dropped length. It sets to chest/4+2 cm for armhole depth, height/4+1 cm for waist line placement, and height/8 for hip length. The sleeve cap height is one-third of armhole length. These results will be useful when the industrial technical designers develop various jacket patterns.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.101-114
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• 2007

This research aimed to identify the differences, in terms of the pattern, of using wool and jersey for designing jackets and to provide a theorized solution. The object of this study is development of women's tailored jacket pattern by the traits of fabrics with fabrics those are generally used to develop the power of manufacturing technique about fit of jacket. Basic bodies prototype, graphics of sleeves prototype and graphics of jacket pattern those a clothing company at present(on&on, a brand of Beaucre Merchandising Co.,Ltd) is using were used as basics of tailored jacket pattern. Three kinds of fabric(wool, polyester, jersey) were chosen, we made jackets in the same manufacturing process of the clothing company, modified and made up for the weak points and then we compared and analyzed differences of pattern by the traits of fabrics, the results are as follows: 1) We drafted basic tailored style jacket pattern, made a jacket with wool fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points by the trend, then developed JacketⅠ for study; 2) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with polyester fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket II for study; 3) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with jersey fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket III for study; 4) We presented final degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I II III for study; 5) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket II(Polyester), there was no change of size overall except extra amount which happens because of the trait of the fabric in 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size in 3 items(height of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern; 6) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket III(Jersey) for study, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 11 items(neck point to shoulder point length, Bishoulder point length, back interscye length, front interscye length, armhole circumference, depth of armhole, chest circumference, bust circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, waist dart) among 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 5 items(height of a sleeve, circumference of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve, width of bottom of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.179-186
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• 2005

Girls' school uniform evaluative criteria and their uniform modification were investigated. The data were collected by questionnaire from 579 middle and high school girls living in Incheon during the fall of 2003. The uniform evaluative criteria consisted of five dimensions: aesthetics, comfort, economy, management, and status concealment factor. The uniform evaluative criteria were used to cluster the students into five groups: economic, practical, aesthetic, negative, and active. The uniform modifications were investigated in regard to sleeve length, sleeve width, breast width, jacket length, skirt length, hip width, and waist width. The aesthetic and the active groups intended to modify uniforms less in sleeve length and skirt length than the other three groups. There were significant differences in the uniform modifications among demographics: school years, height, weight, spending money, satisfaction/dissatisfaction with spending money, and clothing expenditures.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제47권4호
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• pp.696-710
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• 2023

This study investigated the problems of Korean female combat uniforms and collected primary data for developing new combat uniforms with improved functionality. We analyzed fit and motion suitability by administering a questionnaire evaluating the current uniforms to 20 Korean female soldiers. The evaluation of fit suitability found that satisfaction with the combat uniforms was generally high. However, short sleeve length, large wrist circumference, small hip circumference, large ankle circumference, and low crotch height were discomfort factors. In the evaluation of motion suitability, dissatisfaction was found with the sleeve circumference, elbow circumference, armhole circumference, knee crease and crotch height, and back waist height during motion. Therefore, it is necessary to establish a more segmented size system that suits the physique of current female soldiers and to devise appropriate solutions for improving motion suitability. This study is meaningful for its evaluation of the current combat uniform of female soldiers, and it is expected to serve as a reference for the future development of military combat uniforms for this group.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권7호
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• pp.1008-1019
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to develop an appropriate jacket pattern for elderly women over sixty years old, providing a good fit and appearance. Results were as follows: The length of the jacket was made long enough to cover the area 22.0cm below the waistline. The waist back length was made 1.7cm longer than the actual size of the waist back length. The armhole length was made 0.5cm longer than B/4, enhacing the appearance and functionality while allowing freer movement of the arms. As for the front and back interscye breadths, the front interscye breadth was made 1.7cm larger than the actual size while the back interscye breadth was only 1.0cm larger, providing the front interscye breadth more space. The bust breadth was made 10.0cm larger than the bust circumference measure(B/4+2.5cm), the waist breadth was made 6.0cm larger than the waist circumference measure(W/4+1.5cm), The hip breadth was made 12.0cm larger than the him circumference measure(H/4+3.0cm). The sleeve length was made 3.0cm larger than the arm length measure, as the sleeve length of a jacket is usually long enough to cover the ulnar styloid. The sleeve width was made 5.0cm larger than the upper arm circumference measure, as the upper arm circumference measure of the model pattern was too large than necessary, worsening the overall appearance. The sleeve cap height was set at AH/4+4.7cm. The wrist circumference of 27.0cm was set, allowing 2/3 and 1/3 for the large sleeve and small sleeve respectively.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.21-32
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• 1981

Clothing must have the individual beauty and the function that one can do one's body movement freely. therefore, from the human engineering view point, the exact measurement of the human body and the analysis of it's results must be applied to clothing because the arm works most. In this study, the skin surface of arm was investigated by shell made of Alginate of each movement. And by sometic method the rate of expansion and contraction of each section, inter-relation among the bust girth, axillary arm girth and scye girth and between the shoulder length right and the under axilla waist length were calculate4d. With these results, cap height, breadth of a sleeve and arm hole girth of existing sleeve pattern have been compared and analysed. The results are as follows; 1) According to the developmental figures of shell, the whole area change was small but that of shape was remarkable in M 4, 9, 13. The change of the Block 1 was particular. 2) Over arm length was contracted in all movements except M6 and under arm length expanded. The changes of sections a, b, c are large, while those of sections d, e are small. 3) In terms of latitudes, change of fore-arm region was small. The rate of scye girth varied from 14.3% of M13 to-5.6% of M2. The breadth of a sleeve expanded in all movements, and especially the front region expanded more than the back. 4) The relation between the shoulder length right and under axilla waist length, in all occasions, was contracted mutually, and one contracted, the other expanded. Therefore, in clothing construction when we consider the function of the arm it is better to widen the arm hole and the breadth of a sleeve at the same time than no widen the shoulder length by lowering the upper part of the upper side seam line.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.274-280
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• 1990

This paper is intended to grasp the characteristics of many bodices patterns which have been shown so far. The way is by selecting four characteristic kinds of patterns, making blouses offer the patterns and measuring ease. In measuring the degree of ease, $Scheff\`{e}'s$ paired comparison is made use of. In analysis, variation ratio has come out of analysis of variance, and significance is tested by producing estimated values between patterns. The Result is summed up as follows. 1. After wearing blouses made ofter different basic patterns and measuring ease, the analysis of variance is made about the sensory value of ease. The result is as follows. 1) In the ease of different patterns, all the areas are significant at the level of $1\%$ , regard- less of movements. 2) Under the influence of movements, the back area of arm hole is significant at the level of $5\%$ in narrow movements, and the front and the back area of arm hole are each significant at the level of $1\%$ in wide movements. 3) In the interaction of patterns and movements, bust and the under area of arm hole are each significant at the level of $1\%$ in narrow movements, and bust is significant at the level of $1\%$ in wide movements. 2. When comparing estimated values between patterns, the value of c is the largest and in the order of b,4, a. And in the other movements, the order changes into c,d, b and a. Thus the ease of blouses is different according to patterns. The reason for this is that the amount of ease of bust, the amount and location of darts, and sleeve cap height have complicate influences on the ease of blouses. Both sleeve cap height and the depth of arm hole have influences on the ease of sleeve. Consequently, in making clothes, it would be better to select and use proper patterns which go with the purposes and desings of clothes rather than to apply one pattern to various clothes.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.63-77
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• 1992

The purpose of this study is to improve clothing construction by analyzing form variation of upper trunk & upper arms with the use of plaster cast. Experimental research was performed by plaster gypsum method. The subjects were males between age 21 and 25, classified Standard somatotype by their bust size and Rorher Index. Arm movements were consisted of 5 types(0$^{\circ}$, 45$^{\circ}$, 90$^{\circ}$, 135$^{\circ}$, 180$^{\circ}$) to each vertical motion in front. The statistical analyses used in this study were mean, standard deviation, repeated mesure design. The result obtained from this study were as follows; 1. As a result of investigating into the rate of the expantion and contraction of basic body-surfact-lines, the side seam length showed the maxium rate of expantion in 180$^{\circ}$ degrees, the shoulder length showed the maxium contraction in the same degrees. 2. The variation of the upper part of the body form by increasing the upper limb motions, shoulder point was moved to be the inside or upside. And the anterior armfit point, posterior armfit point and armfit point were moved to upside. The form of the armhole-line in Drafts of a body surface was differently changed by increasing the movements. 3. Increasing the upper limb motions, the height of sleeve cap decresed and width of the sleeve decreased but girths of the sleeve cap was not show consistant change.