• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.379-390
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate the fitness according to drafting method of the block patterns for women in Korea. The major findings of this study are as follows: 1. According to comparative analysis of required measurements, two measurements of back length and bust girth are used in Proportional Drafting Method (Munhwa). In case of Compromise Drafting Methods are used across chest, across back, bust length, bust width, full length in front, across shoulder and shoulder length in addition to back length and bust girth. The type of Armstrong as a Short Measure Drafting Method uses 10 measurements for the drafting the bodice. 2. While Esmod block pattern arid Armstrong's block pattern are the lightest in full width and other widths. Rasara block pattern is the most ample. In Lee, Myung-hee's block pattern and Lee, Hyung-sook's block pattern, amounts of drooping are decided $3{\sim}4cm$, but drooping amounts of other block patterns are decided corresponding to real measurements. While cap height in Esmod and Armstrong's sleeve patterns are directly measured Armhole length of the block pattern, cap height of other sleeve patterns are used armhole depth and cap height length as well as armhole length. 3. When analyzing to indirect measurements, Esmod block pattern shows the least different between full length of block pattern and that of body form. Munhwa block pattern and Kim, Hyosook's block pattern are mostly same to body form back length. However all of the block patterns are sheller than body form length. In case of Suh, Wansuk's block pattern, across back and across chest are same size, but other block patterns show difference between across back and across chest. Most block patterns' neck width in front and bach bodice are almost same. Front neck width is generally bigger than back neck width in some cases.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.607-613
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• 2012

This study develops a Hanbok Jeogori pattern for middle-aged women with a 3D virtual-twin and virtual-garment simulation system. The including criteria for subjects in this study was a focus on women in their 50s, and a total of 345 females satisfying them were enrolled for 3D virtual model. Comparative Jeogori pattern, Baik & Choi's(2004) pattern, was selected for the development of Jeogori pattern. The results were: first, a new Jeogori pattern considerate of middle-aged women was developed. The basic numerical formula were: Front and back bust girth B/4+1.5, armhole depth B/4, sleeve width B/4, goedae width B/10-1.5 and git width 5.5. Second, according to the results of the new Jeogori patterns appearance evaluation, the new Jeogori pattern scored higher than the existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, this confirmed that the new Jeogori pattern is appropriate for middle-aged women. Virtual models of production through data from 3D body scan, pattern draft, and virtual garment digital program were applied to a prototypic design method to enhance the fitness of ready-made Hanbok garments. This study serves as important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D Virtual Garment Simulation System with 2D patterns and for the future 3D Pattern Production Program development of Hanbok patterns.

• 복식
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• 제56권5호
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• pp.13-28
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• 2006

The object of this study lies on classifying the size, which is mostly favored in Korea where the wedding dress is usually regarded as an article for rent, and on suggesting the range of sleeve design and that of neck line of bodice. For that, I extracted the average size by analyzing and researching the standard size of actual bodice from real wedding dress manufacturing company. According to the result of the research I named the standard size of Korean wedding dress for rent as 'WM' which has the girth of 88cm and the waist measure of 69cm. Based on the size 'WM', I also named the size 'WS' which has the girth of 82cm with extra length of 6cm up and down and the waist measure of 64cm with extra length of 5cm, and the size 'WL' which has the girth of 94cm and the waist measure of 74cm with same extra length as the size 'WS'. The extra space for the inseam of the back is 3 inches for left and right for all sizes and the mark of body size is standardized as 'girth-waist measure'. After that, I suggested the design types of sleeves and neck line of bodice which defined as its size by classifying the bodice of wedding dress based on its size. Generally the neck line of the tank top style has the widest range of wearable size, and the high neck line and bateau neck line types have the narrowest range. And the sleeveless type has the widest range of wearable size while the raglan type has the narrowest one.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.209-224
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• 2014

This study aims to compare the ease of shirt patterns in the men's wear market that have been constantly developing, and to analyze the fitness and appearance through the 3D virtual try-on system. The study selected three industrial patterns and two educational materials of classic-fit and slim-fit shirts for a total of ten items. The experiments involved virtual wearing, a stress contact point perspective map, and appearance evaluations. First, the ease differed significantly in the chest, waist, and sleeve cap height according to the patterns. Second, based on the stress, contact point, and transparency, there was ease in the order of Nam, D-brand, J-brand, Park, and S-brand in the classic-fit shirts while the order of D-brand, Nam, J-brand, Park, and S-brand resulted in the slim-fit shirts. Third, in the appearance evaluation, higher points resulted in the order of J-brand, Park, S-brand, D-brand, and Nam in both classic-fit and slim-fit. The results showed that proper ease differs greatly by shirt-fit and target age. Also, the shirts with more ease tended to be evaluated less favorably in the appearance evaluation. Based on the results, the study suggests that the proper ease in chest circumference is 18cm for the classic-fit shirts and 6 cm for the slim-fit shirts.

• 복식
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• 제57권8호
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• pp.14-23
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the present condition of cold protective clothing for mailman, to improve its design in movement, fitness, and other functions, and supply basic data for its performance evaluation. The results are as follows : The 46.60% of those questioned did not satisfy current clod protective clothing fer mailman. Especially, they considered dissatisfactory in properties such as waterproof, comfort, activity, and sweat absorption. The newly developed cold protective clothing is two-piece style composed of jacket and pants. Both jacket and pants are composed of inner and outer clothing individually. In both jacket and pants, their outer clothing's material was waterproof, windproof, and breathable shell fabric on which PTFE film laminated and their inner clothing's material was 100% polyester Polar polis to have better insulation property. The jacket has attachable cap which can be used as rain gear and set-in sleeve with stand collar. It also had big outside patch pockets and side seam pockets to ensure enough storage space. The pants have knee pads to give free movement to knees and slant side pockets. Inner clothing of both jacket and pants can be worn during working inside without out clothing. Insulation of the newly developed cold protective clothing was not better than current one except right hand, left hand and left foo. It is considered that is because thickness of material is the most important factor to influence insulation.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.66-76
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• 2017

This study used a virtual wearing system equipped with body shape data with a 3D scanner, based on a female basic bodice, to develop a modified Hanbok Jeogori with high fitness capabilities to provide basic data for the development of the modified Hanbok Jeogori pattern for the academic and industrial fields. In this study, the representative modified Hanbok design which most frequently appeared in broadcasting ads and on line was selected. The wearing test was conducted by six professionals, and three times wearing tests were implemented based on 17 evaluation items. The data for this study was processed statistically using SAS 9.0. We conducted, the F-test for significance verification, the Duncan-test for a post test, and a correlation analysis of Cronbach's alpha coefficient for a reliability test of dressing test results were implemented for each of the three tests. The pattern of the developed modified Hanbok Jeogori overcame the defects of the short length of the conventional modified hanbok, and could fix the length issue. The developed Hanbok pattern solved the overlapping problem of the shoulder, back neck point-sleeve length(Whajang), and armhole, displayed in a straight line from the Godae point of the previous modified Hanbok; it suggested the position of the Seop and neck line in the basic bodice. Based on this, the Seop width, Git form, Goreum and the width, length, and position of the string whose dimensions can differ in accordance with the trend can be applied in various forms.