• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.1-13
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• 2005

This study is for the construction of Cheo-Yongdance Costumeby historical research based on Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom(樂學軌範). Through the production of Cheo-Yongdance Costume by historical research, it is examined and this study is expected that be a help of the right succession of a traditional costume. Cheo-Yongdance Costumeis draught to real size by comparing the size and picture suggested in Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom. In the specialty of Cheoyong(處容) dance Costume in the drawing, the length of clothes was 152cm that is longer than the length of the excavated Danlyeong(團領) of Chosun Dynasty period. Width was 81.9cm that is very big and the width of Danlyeong is 11.7cm. The sleeve length of Hansam(汗衫) is 20O.60cm and it is one that attached Hansam to Jeogori(저고리). The material used for Cheoyong dance Costume is Dan(緞), Cho, Joo(紬), Red gold patterned brocade(紅金線). At the same part, and as the goal was differently used at the same clothing. As the methods of dyeing, the process of dyeing naturally is suggested. A gardenia seeds, indigo plant, and ink stick are used for the color of blue, red, yellow and black. The producing process is made in concrete by suggesting the process of producing clothing. Danlyeong is required the technique of smoothing out wrinklesin case of attaching. Goon(裙) was made by making plaits below and attaching string for making form in the literature. Ui(衣), Chon-ui(天衣) and Goon(裙)'s Bang-sul(方膝) are drawn a Man-hwa Mun(蔓花紋) on Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom by using the golden dyeing material. As the result of producing the clothe by using the recorded size in Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom, it could be examine a pertinent dance clothing for expressing the dance performance with big motions.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.687-696
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• 2006

This study aims at analyzing the silhouette, dress patterns and detail of Empire Era(1789-1825), and making use of this results for the modern stage costume construction. The dresses of Empire era were divided into X and H style. The results revealed that the bust girth of X style group was bigger than that of H style group. Such patterns as high waistline, puff sleeve, train, etc. which appeared during the peak time of Empire style period were more remarkable for H style group. This obviously indicated that more epical characteristics were observed for H style group than for X style group. Similarly to silhouette analysis, based on the results from cluster analysis conducted to put similar groups together, two groups were formed - a visually differentiated and complex group and a simple group in the absence of detail. Most dress details from Empire period had simple embellishments. Comparison of the average size of the patterns between two groups indicated that waist front length of H style was shorter than that of X style. Front interscye was even greater than back width for both groups. Such trend was quite different from today's pattern in which back width is larger than front width based on body measurements. Preference for big breast during the period was reflected on dress patterns and the side length of front side goes across the back much further for bodice patterns. Two representatives were selected and reproduced using materials similar to those of real dresses of Empire style, following two times fit test.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.1-14
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• 2015

This study mainly analyzes that designing patterns of an adult women Jeogori that takes advantage of patterns from each textbooks and complements the disadvantages based on the analysis of data from the dress evaluation and comparison of materials. The modification of a size specification is needed for the standard body as an adjust of the length of Jogori between front and back, mediation for bust width between front and back, a movement for the based line of Sup and Godae. As a result, the suitable pattern according to the standard somatotype is as below. Jeogori Length of front is determined by the length of back which was measured from side neck point to bust point plus three centimeters, and give three and half centimeters more in front. This three and half centimeters is for the curved in front of your body due to the chest. Bust width of front and back have to show the differences of human body. Bust width of front is calculated as bust girth into quarters and add two centimeters. Bust width of back gives one centimeter behind the curve from the center line in order to reduce the floating phenomenon. So, the amount of center back line dart is one centimeter. Arm hole girth measures as dividing bust girth into four. Also, Goedae width has two methods to measure. First, divide bust girth into ten equal parts and subtract 0.5 centimeters from it. Second, measure neck girth and divide it by four. Sleeve length is equal to Hwajang minus bust width of front. Hand wrist calculates in using bust girth. Make bust girth into quarters and multiply three fifths. Side line measures as deducting from Jeogori length of back to Arm hole girth and multiply two thirds.

• Journal of Korean Society of Steel Construction
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.429-438
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• 2011

In this study, the explicit numerical algorithm was proposed to simulate the stress erection process and ultimate-load analysis of the strarch (stressed arch) system. The strarch system is a unique and innovative structural system and member prestress comprising prefabricated plane truss frames erected through a post-tensioning stress erection procedure. The flexible bottom chord, which has sleeve and gap details, is closed by the reaction force of the prestressing tendon. The prestress imposed on the tendon will enable the strarch system to be erected. This post-tensioning process is called "stress erection process." During this process, plastic rigid-body rotation occurs to the flexible top chord due to the excessive amount of plastic strain, and the structural characteristic is unstable. In this study, the dynamic relaxation method (DRM) was adopted to calculate the nonlinear equilibrium equation of the system, and a displacement-based finite-element-formulated filament beam element was used to simulate the nonlinear behavior of the top chord sections of the strarch system. The section of the filament beam element was composed by the amount of filaments, which can be modeled by various material models. The Ramberg-Osgood and bilinear kinematic elastic plastic material models were formulated for the nonlinear material behaviors of the filaments. The numerical results that were obtained in the present study were compared with the experiment results of the stress erection and with the results of the ultimate-load analysis of the strarch unit frame. The results of the present studies are in good agreement with the previous experiment results, and the explicit DRM enabled the analysis of the post-buckling behaviors of the strarch unit frame.

• Journal of the Korea Concrete Institute
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.249-257
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to contribute to the field application cost effectively and reasonably by developing the functional piles that make up for the defects of PHC piles. CFP (Concrete Filled Pretensioned Spun High Strength Concrete Pile with Ring type Composite shear connectors) piles developed in this study increases the compressive stress through enlarged cross section by rearranging composite shear connectors and filling the hollow part of PHC pile with concrete. And it improved shear and bending performance placing the rebar (H13-8ea) within the PHC pile and the hollow part of PHC pile of rebar (H19-8ea). In addition, the composite shear connectors were placed for the composite behavior between PHC pile and filled concrete. Placing Rebars (H13-8ea) of PHC pile into composite shear connector holes are sleeve-type mechanical coupling method that filling the concrete to the gap of the two members. Nonlinear finite element analyzes were performed to verify the performance of shear and bending moments and it deduced the spacing of the composite shear connectors. Through a various interpretation of CFP piles, it's proved that the CFP pile can increase the shear and bending stiffness of the PHC pile effectively. Therefore, this can be utilized usefully on the construction sites.