• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2005

This study is for the construction of Cheo-Yongdance Costumeby historical research based on Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom(樂學軌範). Through the production of Cheo-Yongdance Costume by historical research, it is examined and this study is expected that be a help of the right succession of a traditional costume. Cheo-Yongdance Costumeis draught to real size by comparing the size and picture suggested in Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom. In the specialty of Cheoyong(處容) dance Costume in the drawing, the length of clothes was 152cm that is longer than the length of the excavated Danlyeong(團領) of Chosun Dynasty period. Width was 81.9cm that is very big and the width of Danlyeong is 11.7cm. The sleeve length of Hansam(汗衫) is 20O.60cm and it is one that attached Hansam to Jeogori(저고리). The material used for Cheoyong dance Costume is Dan(緞), Cho, Joo(紬), Red gold patterned brocade(紅金線). At the same part, and as the goal was differently used at the same clothing. As the methods of dyeing, the process of dyeing naturally is suggested. A gardenia seeds, indigo plant, and ink stick are used for the color of blue, red, yellow and black. The producing process is made in concrete by suggesting the process of producing clothing. Danlyeong is required the technique of smoothing out wrinklesin case of attaching. Goon(裙) was made by making plaits below and attaching string for making form in the literature. Ui(衣), Chon-ui(天衣) and Goon(裙)'s Bang-sul(方膝) are drawn a Man-hwa Mun(蔓花紋) on Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom by using the golden dyeing material. As the result of producing the clothe by using the recorded size in Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom, it could be examine a pertinent dance clothing for expressing the dance performance with big motions.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.687-696
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• 2006

This study aims at analyzing the silhouette, dress patterns and detail of Empire Era(1789-1825), and making use of this results for the modern stage costume construction. The dresses of Empire era were divided into X and H style. The results revealed that the bust girth of X style group was bigger than that of H style group. Such patterns as high waistline, puff sleeve, train, etc. which appeared during the peak time of Empire style period were more remarkable for H style group. This obviously indicated that more epical characteristics were observed for H style group than for X style group. Similarly to silhouette analysis, based on the results from cluster analysis conducted to put similar groups together, two groups were formed - a visually differentiated and complex group and a simple group in the absence of detail. Most dress details from Empire period had simple embellishments. Comparison of the average size of the patterns between two groups indicated that waist front length of H style was shorter than that of X style. Front interscye was even greater than back width for both groups. Such trend was quite different from today's pattern in which back width is larger than front width based on body measurements. Preference for big breast during the period was reflected on dress patterns and the side length of front side goes across the back much further for bodice patterns. Two representatives were selected and reproduced using materials similar to those of real dresses of Empire style, following two times fit test.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2015

This study mainly analyzes that designing patterns of an adult women Jeogori that takes advantage of patterns from each textbooks and complements the disadvantages based on the analysis of data from the dress evaluation and comparison of materials. The modification of a size specification is needed for the standard body as an adjust of the length of Jogori between front and back, mediation for bust width between front and back, a movement for the based line of Sup and Godae. As a result, the suitable pattern according to the standard somatotype is as below. Jeogori Length of front is determined by the length of back which was measured from side neck point to bust point plus three centimeters, and give three and half centimeters more in front. This three and half centimeters is for the curved in front of your body due to the chest. Bust width of front and back have to show the differences of human body. Bust width of front is calculated as bust girth into quarters and add two centimeters. Bust width of back gives one centimeter behind the curve from the center line in order to reduce the floating phenomenon. So, the amount of center back line dart is one centimeter. Arm hole girth measures as dividing bust girth into four. Also, Goedae width has two methods to measure. First, divide bust girth into ten equal parts and subtract 0.5 centimeters from it. Second, measure neck girth and divide it by four. Sleeve length is equal to Hwajang minus bust width of front. Hand wrist calculates in using bust girth. Make bust girth into quarters and multiply three fifths. Side line measures as deducting from Jeogori length of back to Arm hole girth and multiply two thirds.

• 한국강구조학회 논문집
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.429-438
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• 2011

본 연구에서는 스트라치 시스템의 긴장설치과정 및 극한하중 해석을 수행하기 위한 명시적 해석법을 제안하였다. 스트라치 시스템은 Stressed-Arch에서 유래한 용어로 슬리브와 갭이 도입된 유동하현재 내부의 긴장재에 초기장력을 도입함으로써 갭이 점차 닫히게 되며, 이에 따라 상현재에 곡률이 도입되면서 전체 구조물이 상승하여, 최종적인 아치형태의 구조물을 형성하는 독창적인 구조시스템이다. 스트라치 시스템의 초기장력 도입과정을 긴장설치(stress-erection) 과정이라 하며, 초기곡률의 도입에 따라 유동 상현재에는 과도한 초기변형이 발생하여 소성거동에 의한 강체회전이 발생하는 불안정 구조물이 된다. 본 연구에서는 이러한 스트라치 시스템의 불안정 거동특성을 해석하기 위해서 강성행렬을 사용하지 않는 명시적 동적이완법을 사용하여 비선형 평형방정식의 해를 구하였고, 대변위 및 단면의 재료적 특성을 반영할 수 있는 필라맨트 보요소를 사용하여 연속된 상현재의 비선형 거동특성을 분석하였다. 필라맨트 보요소의 단면은 다수의 1차원 필라맨트로 구성되며, 각각의 필라맨트에 대해서 다양한 재료모델을 적용할 수 있다. 본 연구에서는 비선형 재료모델인 Ramberg-Osgood모델 및 Bi-linear 탄소성 모델을 적용하여 긴장설치 및 극한하중 해석을 수행하였고, 그 결과를 이전의 실험적 연구결과와 비교 분석하였다. 본 연구의 해석결과는 이전의 실험적 연구결과와 유사하였으며, 명시적 해석법의 특성상 효율적으로 후좌굴거동 특성까지 해석할 수 있었다.

• 콘크리트학회논문집
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• 제29권3호
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• pp.249-257
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• 2017

본 연구는 PHC말뚝의 단점을 보강한 기능성 말뚝을 개발함으로서 보다 경제적이고 합리적인 말뚝의 현장 적용에 기여하고자 하였다. 본 연구를 통해 개발된 CFP말뚝은 링형 합성 전단연결재를 배치하고 PHC말뚝 중공부에 콘크리트를 속채움함으로써 말뚝 단면 확대를 통한 압축응력을 증대시키고, PHC말뚝 내 보강철근(H13-8ea)과 말뚝 중공부의 보강철근(H19-8ea)을 배치함으로서 전단과 휨 성능을 향상시켰다. 또한, 속채움 콘크리트와 PHC말뚝의 합성거동을 위해 링형 합성 전단연결재를 배치함과 동시에 PHC말뚝 내 보강철근(H13-8ea)을 연결재 내부에 배치함으로서 두 부재의 유격내에 콘크리트로 메우는 슬리브형 기계적 이음방법을 도입하였다. 링형 합성 전단연결재의 배치 간격 도출과 말뚝의 전단 및 휨 성능을 검증하고자 범용프로그램을 이용한 콘크리트 구조물의 비선형재료 모델로 유한요소해석을 수행하였다. 링형 합성 전단연결재를 배치하여 제작되는 CFP말뚝의 다양한 해석을 통해서 PHC 말뚝의 전단 및 휨 강성을 효과적으로 증대시킬 수 있음이 입증되어 건설현장에 유용하게 활용될 수 있을 것으로 사료된다.