• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제15권5호
• /
• pp.178-194
• /
• 2011

Due to the population growth of the old aged, Korea is also entering into an aging society. But a research on the pattern design to the old aged is much to be desired. The purpose of this research is to design skirt pattern fitted for each body type by categorizing the lower body type of the old aged woman. For the way of research, categorized the body type by using the female measuring size from the 65 years old to 99 years old which has been measured by the Korean body size research as an assay data, and base on this data, a suitable skirt pattern for each body type of the old aged woman was designed by practicing the exterior evaluation. The data analysis was done with the statistical treatment in SPSS 12.0, and the results are as follows. The lower body type of the old aged woman were divided into the type 1. The circumference article is the biggest compared to the height article regarding to the lower body type of the old aged woman. The type 2. The height article and the circumference and thickness articles are the poorest. The type 3. The height article is the biggest and the hip width and calf circumference are thicker than the waist width. The type 4. The height article is the lowest and the waist width is thicker instead the hip and leg are thinner. In type 1, The pattern was modified by increasing 1cm a length of the dart and raising up 1.2cm at the cross point between side line and waist line. In type 2, the basic pattern was used, and in type 3, using the outline of the basic pattern however, increased 1cm a length of the dart and modified the amounts of dart by handling the art in curve, and modified the waist line to be more three-dimensional curves by raising up 1 cm at the cross point between waist line and side line and falling down 0.5cm at the cross point between the back center line and the waist line. In type 4, modified the amounts of front and back dart to 1.25cm, and raised up 0.8cm at the cross point between side line and waist line, and modified the waist line and the side seam line in a gentle curve by reducing circumference of the skirt tail to 1cm from the side seam line.

• 복식
• /
• 제48권
• /
• pp.25-36
• /
• 1999

The purpose of the present research was to analyse for a sample of female collge students by Korean and American the preferred style of clothing with body cathexis. The respondents were 242 Korean and 145 American female volunteers aged 18 to 27 who were enrolled at Kwangju and Cathlic University of korean and Cornell University in the Unites States. The questionnaire was composed of three sections: body size body cathexis and the preferred style of clothing. Sixteen items of twenty-six items of the preferred style of clothing showed a significant difference between Korean and American. Korean students didn't like a bulky fabric and a bright color than American do. American students like a effect of accessories and clothing to emphasize my bust line and care about sleeve shape skirt length skirt shape than Korean do. Korean students were more dissatisfied with their body than American female students. There was a negative relationship between body cathexis and preference of tight skirt both Korean and American female students. There was a positive relationship among body cathexis and preference of outfit and preference of garment of polished silhouette by Korean female students a positive relationship among preference of fitted waist and design to emphasize bust line.

• 복식
• /
• 제51권4호
• /
• pp.5-14
• /
• 2001

Excavated costumes at the women's tomb in 17C have been sustained good condition. These materials give us that Jang ui(長衣) and so chang ui(소창의) with chechori(유), skirt, trousers(袴) reflects on women's fashion style at that time. By seeing these costumes, we can get the characteristics of costumes in mid-chosun era with chechori, skirt, jang ui, so chang ui etc. The features of chechori in this area are follows : form - diagonal gil, collar - kalkit and tangkokit, length - about 50cm, materials - silk, cotton, grass-cloth, kind - single, double. clothing padded with cotton wool etc. It is the first time that chang ui, one of Po, is excavated in this area. There are three pieces of jang ui which is significant data to study deeply on the costume in 1700's. Jang ui mainly made of silk in pattern, silk, cotton and decorated stylish printing on the robes. With these material and style, we can induce the mode of mid-chosun period. Through comparative studying we have many chances to understand women's the garment for the dead(염습의) in mid-chosun period.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제17권4호
• /
• pp.613-625
• /
• 2015

This research was conducted to provide basic data to improve expressivity required for virtual clothing to replace actual clothing. For the experiment, 6 materials were selected and 12(2 kinds of length) actual flared skirts were made. At the same time, simulations were carried out on OptiTex Runway 12.0 for 36(12 kinds of skirts $\times$ KES, FTU, KES weight/10) kinds of virtual flared skirts, which were applied with the measured property values (thickness, weight, bending, shear, friction, and stretch). Also, the study compared and analyzed the wearing images, silhouette overlapping images, and skirt length measurements of the actual and virtual skirts put on a dummy. As a result, the actual skirts showed clear distinction for each material. In contrast, virtual 1 and 2 expressed fabric 3 in the most similar way, but could not recreate the uniform, soft, and natural flare shape of the actual skirts in general. Virtual 3 formed natural flares as those of the actual skirts, and expressed fabric 1, 5, and 6 in a similar way. However, virtual 3 had too much volume and barely showed any distinction for each material. All of virtual 1, 2, and 3 expressed different flare shapes on the front and back sides of the skirt similarly to the actual skirts, and had a good visual expression for the color and texture of the materials. However, they could not effectively express the elasticity and fabric sagging in the bias direction.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제10권5호
• /
• pp.702-712
• /
• 2008

The aim of this study is to develop Casual Hanbok design made of Hanji yarn textiles for New Silver generation women. The New silver generation is a coined word which has meaning of a newly silver generation and it is distinguished from pre-silver generation. New silver generation is a generation that is independent and given active role by their age groups and generational characteristic. The concept of silver generation was introduced from maturity market in Japan. This study was based on analysis about their preference of forms, colors, and materials of Casual Hanbok. The survey target were 270 female over age 50 living in Daejeon City. The analysis methods used frequency and percentage. The results were summarized as following. Although almost of them haven't worn Casual Hanbok, they had the positive recognition on wearing one. They preferred longer length jacket to traditional Korean style, shorter length of skirt. They also preferred the traditional sleeve shape and knotted buttons. On the foundation of this fact, 2 styles consist of 5 Casual Hanbok design items made of functional material - Hanji yarn textiles that have antimicrobial, deodorant, quick drying, far infrared radiation which are not harmful to health - for New silver women were suggested. One style was 3 items - blouse, vest, skirt - which are the sense of Korean tradition with activity by patch. The other was 2 items - jacket and skirt - which are the sense of Korean tradition with modern way by quilting. Lastly, these garments were evaluated by 13 experts, they were satisfied with 2 styles and all items. As this study were based on the Elderly women living in Daejeon city, it had the limitation on applying of preference styles to all the New silver generation.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제13권5호
• /
• pp.661-671
• /
• 2011

This study was designed to produce rounded belt pattern and tight-skirt pattern drafting method using 3D body scan data. Subjects were thirty women in their early twenties. In order to figure out the optimum cutting points, namely, where darts are made, using CAD program, curve ratio inflection points on the horizontal curve of waist, abdomen, and hip to find 1 point in the front, two points in the back part. The average length from center front point to maximum curve ratio was 7.7 cm(46.3%) on the waist curve; 7.9 cm(39.4%) on the abdomen curve. And the average length from center back point to maximum curve ratio point was 6.9 cm(39.0%) for first dart and 11.2 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the waist curve; 8.9 cm(35.8%) for first dart and 15.7 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the hip curve respectively. The cutting lines from were made up by connecting curve inflection points. After divided using cutting lines, each patch was flattened onto the plane and all the technical design factors related with patternmaking were measured, such as dart amount, lifting amount of side waist point, etc. Based on the results of correlation analysis among these factors, regression analysis was done to produce equations to estimate the variables necessary to draw up pattern draft method; F1=F8+1.1, $F4=2.5{\times}F2+0.9$, $F5=0.9{\times}F4+1.0$, $F6=0.3{\times}F4+0.4$, $B1=0.9{\times}B8+2.3$, $B4=2.1{\times}B2+1.3$, $B5=0.9{\times}B4+3.5$, and $B6=0.3{\times}B4+0.4$.

• 복식
• /
• 제55권7호
• /
• pp.89-100
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study was to find out differences of visual evaluation according to perceiver's personality(introvert-extrovert) and clothing styles. Subjects were 120 women in age from 18 to 31 years in Seoul. The stimuli of 7 clothing styles were used for visual evaluation. Three dimensions of visual evaluation were derived by falters analysis: elegance, activity individuality, and fashionability. The pants suit was estimated low in activity individuality and fashionability, but the hip-hop style high in activity individuality. The skirt suit was rated high in elegance, but the 8th length pants low in elegance. Personality had significant influences on the evaluation of activity individuality. Extrovert women perceived all stimuli to be more active and individual than introvert. Fashionability factor had an interaction effect by personality and clothing expenses. The introvert women in low clothing expenses group evaluated the stimuli to be more fashionable than the introvert in high clothing expenses group. There were significant differences in preference of all clothing styles according to personality. Extrovert women liked 8th length pants more than introvert. The introvert women in low clothing expenses group liked the skirt suit less than the extrovert.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제17권2호
• /
• pp.315-327
• /
• 1993

The purpose of this study was to clarify the model of fashion change related to the cyclical variations suggested by Kroeber and Young and the selected social changes factors since Kapokyungchang(1894) in Korea. The sample was drawn from illustrations and photos in newspapers and magazines such as Chosunilbo, Dongailbo, and Yeowon. Documentary research and a content analysis have been done. The results were as follows : 1. Cyclical variations in dress were apparent for skirt length and silhouette. However, Kroeber's model and Young's model that regulary recurring cycles exist did not fit the data for 1970 to 1990 in Korea. For skirt length, the cycles appeared to be approximately five to six years for 1970 to 1990. 2. Social and institutional factors tended to account for more the variance in dress dimensions than political factors.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제10권5호
• /
• pp.601-606
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study was to reveal relations between fashions and economic by analyzing the fashion style expressed in women magazine advertisements. The method of this study was used content analysis with 1933 samples in women magazine ('Women Sense', 'Yeosung Dong-A', and 'Jubu Saeng-hwal') which were issued in March, June, September, and December from 1994 to 2002. The data analyses were divided six elements: silhouette, color, pattern, length of skirt & slacks, adjustment, and breadth of collar lapel. The results of this study were as follows; 1. The silhouette of the period before and after economic crisis was expressed in square silhouette. 2. The color of the period before economic crisis was expressed in white and black. The period after economic crisis was expressed in white, warm colors, secondary colors with black. 3. The pattern was expressed in plain pattern. 4. The length of skirt & slacks was expressed in various lengths. 5. The Adjustment was expressed in single button. 6. The breadth of collar lapel of the period before economic crisis was expressed in large breadth. The period after economic crisis was expressed in small breadth.

• 복식
• /
• 제52권2호
• /
• pp.103-113
• /
• 2002

Heungdukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance(834A.D.) is a very important written historical record because it reveals Tongil Shills's(統一新羅) costume. But among the clothing pieces that appeared in Heundukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance, classification of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) is not clear. This study focuses on the categorization of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣). Upper garments included among costume ordinance were Pyooe(表衣), Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣), Pyooe(表衣) and aeoe(內衣) were unisex, while Danoe(短衣) was worn only by women excluding the lower class. Pyooe(表衣) is applicable to Po(袍), Naeoe(內衣) is aplicable to Yu(유). Shilla'(新羅) upper garments appearing in visual records are as follows: -With the exception of Pyooe(表衣), the length of men's upper garments were between hip and knee length. These upper garments featured V-neck and round neck styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side. -Again excluding Pyooe(表衣), women's upper garments were similar to men's upper garments having V-neck and round necklines. We know this to be true from the relics found during the excavations of Hwangsungdong and Yonggangdong, as well as from the women in the stone reliefs of Sangju. Although we know the shape of necklines. the length of upper garments remained a mystery because women of that tome tucked in their upper garments into the skirts and/or wore an over garment. However a clay doll found around Bulguksa(佛國寺) wearing a knee length garment with V-neck. The upper garment was opened in the front and was worn over another garment with same length and round neckline. At that time, The upper garments found in China and Japan. were not much different than those found in Shilla (新羅). They also included garments that were waist length, had peach-shaped necklines, or were worn over head. Shilla's(新羅) traditional upper garment was between hip and knee length, but with the introduction and influence of Chinese costume. upper garments with a length coming down to the high waist line began to appear. In addition to Chinese influence, because Shilla's(新羅) women wore the upper garment first and then the lower garment, a long upper garment was not necessary. These shorter upper garments came to be known as 'Danoe(短衣)'When we perceive clothing. we look at silhouette first and then the details. Silhouette is much determined by length and neckline or the front of the garment determines the details, So we need to attention to the basis of ancient dress classifications. These classifications were according to first length [Po(袍), Yu(유)] and then neckline [Danryoung(團領), Jingryoung(首領)]. As a result. Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) are classified by the length. The length (內衣) was between hip and knee length while Daneoe(短衣) was waist length. Danoe(短衣) was worn by putting the bottom of it inside skirt naeoe(內衣) was worn over a skirt or plant. But both had V-neck and round neck styles, and styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side.