• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.37
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• pp.163-180
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• 1998

In western clothing, woman's body was port-rayed sexually as the distinction of sex was appeared, and the parts of body contain some kind of symbol of sex. Woman's body was diversly accentuated according to the divers ideal beauty concepts pursuits in the different periods. Today, in a Post-industrial Society whose social structure is very divers and complicated, the interpretation of woman's body reveals so various as the complex social structure. The purpose of this study is to comprehend the various interpretations of woman's body in the contemporary clothing. The concrete purposes of this study is as follows. First, this study is to define the concept of natural body and built body by differentiating the parts of body and searching for the sexual symbols accentuated in the western clothing. Second this study aims to review, the histori-cal process of prejudged distinction of sex in the western clothing, and to analyse the con-temporary sociocultural which forced to change this prejudged distinction of sex. Third, on the bases of this analses, this study also aims to present various interpretation on divers aspects of woman's body portrayed in the contemporary clothing. The interpretation of woman's body in the contemporary clothing were as follow. First, it is a body interpreted as a natural and neutral body which is based not so much on prejudged division of sex as on the expression of the body structure. And, it is a decomposed and recomposed body which is based on plastic principles. This body is portrayed by a layer-ing and wrapping which interrogated such traditional symbols of western clothing as collar, sleeve or trousers, skirt, etc. Second, it is a sexually symbolized body. This body is display-ed by exposure or sexual accentuation in the clothing. To conclude, a body interpreted in the contemporary clothing is no more a body accentuated by division of sex, but a body which per-mits indefinite hypotheses and interpretations under synthetic imagination.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.5
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• pp.79-95
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women´s status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1960´s, ideal beauty was small bust, long legs, which showed extremely slim Mini-skirt look. Thinly or no padded brassiere were worn for small bust, and pants-style short panty girdles were popular as they used to wear pants frequently. Lycra replaced all the closures, bones, seams and gave freedom with light weight. In 1970´s, a natural human body without sex specific was in vogue. Therefore, the non-structural knits without a pad or lining or the shirts dress were widespread for a Natural look and the naturally molded brassiere or girdles were worn as the underwears. In 1980´s, the women with powerful muscle appear which emphasized liveliness and healthfulness. The body conscious represented by wide shoulder, plump breast, accented waist, small hips, and long legs has been embodied. Outer garments emphasized women power and healthy beauty with Power suit and Form-fitting style, and underwears made the breast plump with padded brassiere and emphasized waist and hips with waspie. In 1990´s, ideal beauty was slim body with big bust and the outer garments emphasized body line of women with Hourglass silhouette. Push-up bra which emphasizes the valley of breast and supports the breast upward and the control tights for slim waist, flat abdomen, small hips, and long and slim legs have been useful as underwears. Multi-functional micro-fiber has been ideal for sculpting women body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.105-117
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to help the understanding the characteristics in the costumes of men and women throughout the overall acceptance process of 'Naewaebub' in the late 'Chosun Dynasty' in which the notion of 'Naewae' is more prosperous than any other period in Korean history. Originally the distinction between man and woman was not intended to display the high and the low but to show the mutual respect according to each duty. As time goes on, that ideal became gradually changed to heighten the man and lower the women especially in 'Han' period of China. There was the ideal of distinction in the ancient times in Korea. Until 'Koryo Dinasty' the community has the system of blood-tied that put together maternal and paternal. 'Karye' was introduced in the late 'Koryo Dynasty' and accepted to the stereotype of morale in the 'Chosun Dynasty' and there seemed to be 'Samgang' and 'Oryun' at once. Many restrictions was imposed to behavior in women like rules of prohibition in attending the temple and concealment of woman's face and was recognized to rule of distinction between man and woman. Confucian life custom has been settled to Korean society throughout the late 16th century and 17th century and there were some appearances in the housing construction which divide the residences of man and woman. The characteristics in the costume from the avoidance of opposite sexes are clear in the structure of clothes changed from similar style to different style. The examples of those characteristics are as fellows. The costume in man was developed to advanced 'Pyoun-bokkwan' and 'Pyounbokpo' as social action of man prospered. Meanwhile the trousers which had been the same in the man and woman were separated to different trousers between man and woman. The costume life style of woman was changed to using the a hair whirl, hiding the face in the street and overlapping the innerwear under the skirt which was extension of woman's closed life style in late 'Chosun Dynasty'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.1
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• pp.27-41
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• 2013

This study is to examine the costumes of Gyeokgu in different situations and to suggest when and how they should be used in historical drama. Gyeokgu is a type of polo game that was played in Korea and it was also known as Gyeokbong and Bonghee. The accounts of the game show that it was played during the South-North period as recorded in Balhaego, Haedongyeoksa, and Goryeosa until the Joseon period. The scenes of Gyeokgu have been shown in some historical dramas in order to make the story exciting or to show the life of royalty. The costume of Gyeokgu in the South-North period should be suggested Danryeong(團領), Bokdu, and Haw(靴) in a formal situation. The Gyeokgu in the Goryeo period was a sport for royalty. So the Gyeokgu costume in the Goryeo period was required to be worn with Danryeong(團領), Bokdu, and Haw(靴) for the kings and military officers in the early Goryeo period and with Cheollik(帖裡), Balip or Huklip(黑笠), and Haw(靴) from the middle of the Goryeo period. Women could wear Chima(skirt), Jeogori(blouse), Pyo, and Li(履) when they play Gyeokgu in the Goryeo period in the historical dramas. The Gyeokgu in the early Joseon period was a sport for the kings. After the king of Sejong, the Gyeokgu became a martial art for the military officers. The costume of Gyeokgu in the Joseon period should be Red Cheollik(紅帖裡), Kwadu, Jonglip, Gwangjodae(廣組帶), Sagu, and Haw(靴) as recorded in Muyedobotongji in the 18th century. The kings, servants, and military officers could wear the Cheollik and should be made in the different Git(collar), shape of the sleeves, and the proportion of the upper part and the underpart in each period properly. When the citizens play Gyeokgu, they could wear Geon(巾), Baji(pants), Jeogori(shirt), and Gipsin in the late Joseon period.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.848-855
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop design for daily hanbok with Jacquard textile design developed by using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. This study will also develop Jacquard textile design that has elaborate and luxurious patterns and abundant expression of colors using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. Developing daily hanbok design for woman's casual and formal occasion will contribute to fashion business significantly by popularization of daily hanbok as one of the important fashion genre. The "Texpro Design CAD V8.21" program was used for the textile design. A total of 2 designs were developed as the Jacquard textile design with traditional patterns using flower motifs. One type of fabric was produced for each of the textile design with a color selected from "Pantone Color Chips". And finally, four woman's daily hanbok design for either casual or and formal style were developed and these daily hanboks were consisted of one set of jacket and trouser, durumagi, one set of jacket and skirt and one set of vest and trouser. And the actual garments were constructed and the design procedure and the photos of these works were presented. This study showed the possibility of producing highly sensible daily hanbok that suits the fashion trend of middle aged women and the widening of consumer range and the creation of new market by developing Jacquard textile design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.753-763
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to investigate the wearing situation and satisfaction of school uniforms with the middle and high school boys and girls, who have been in uniforms for one or more years. The subjects for the survey were a total of 560 from the 2nd and the 3rd grade of the middle school, and the 1st and the 2nd grade of the high school. The survey was performed with the questionnaire of 60 questions; 36 questions related to the actual status, such as the purchase, size, repair, and design of a school uniform, and 24 questions related to satisfaction. The results were as follows; 1. Regarding the school uniform purchase, middle school students attached importance to famous brand, while high school students valued design above everything else. The students confused with the school uniform sizing systems were 82.1 % and 72.5 % in middle and high school students. 2. 43% of middle school students and 34% of high school students had experiences of repairing their school uniforms. Regarding the reason for repair, the size misfit was the highest. Boys preferred a single breasted boxy jacket with middle hip line length, and straight trousers, and girls preferred a fitted jacket of waist line length, and flare skirt of the knee line length. 3. School uniform satisfaction score showed that students were not satisfied with their school uniforms so much. Middle school students had significantly lower satisfaction about the design and psychological protection than high school students. Even though high school students showed lower satisfaction about the price and the care of school uniforms, there were no significant differences between them.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.543-554
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to find whether hemline cycles exist and whether hemlines show greater within-year variability over time. Utilizing US Vogue data from 1950 to 2013 on hemline length of women's daywear, total 2102 day-dresses or skirts on full fashion pictures were analyzed. The skirt length was divided by the total length of figure in the picture which was measured from shoulder to ankle. Aggregated yearly means smoothed by means of three-point moving averages were used to provide a better indication of the long-term direction of movement of the hemline. Within-year hemline variability was smoothed by the way of three-point moving average as well. The data showed five cycles on hemline change processes. The first cycle took 21 years from 1950 to 1971, which was the longest period and had the biggest hemline changes. The second cycle was the shortest from 1971 to 1977, in which hemline moved between below-knee length and midcalf. The hemline in the third cycle moved between midcalf and miniskirt. The third cycle took 16 years from 1977 to 1993. The forth was a short cycle from 1998 to 2001, and hemlines moved moderately between below-knee length and above-knee length. The fifth cycle has been on going since 2001, and the hemline has been getting longer after 2007. The within-year variability of hemlines was bigger in 1980s than previous years and was steadily increased.

• Journal of the Institute of Electronics Engineers of Korea TC
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• v.38 no.12
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• pp.39-48
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• 2001

We have studied the design of the photonic bandgap (PBG) structure on the microstrip line that can effectively control the fractional bandwidth of the passband formed in the stopband by adding the stub in the cell of the microstrip PBG structure. As the length of the stub increases, the cutoff frequency and the center frequency of the stopband are decreased, while the bandwidth of the stopband is increased. We have also found that the fractional bandwidth of the passband formed in stopband by the introduction of defect decreases as the stub length is increased. These results mean that adding the stub in the normal PBG structure is an effective way to control the fractional bandwidth. As an application example, we have implemented a microwave duplexer using the proposed structure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.8
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• pp.959-967
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• 2011

An importance of design that considers the characteristics of fashion that plays a role of a medium that communicates with customers (and is not simply clothes or products by adding the particular culture factors of a local country to the development of glocalism) is discussed. While the cultural consumption becomes a core key word, the survey of customers is conducted to develop a party-wear design that applies a Korean image suitable for the party culture industry magnified by the young generation's cultural trends. Based on it, we suggest a party-wear design that applies Dancheong's lotus and derive the followed results. The first, one-piece and accessory coordination was the highest by 49.3% for the party-wear coordination and design. In addition, Dancheong was the highest by 16.5% for the traditional pattern (thought to be representative for Korean image). Among the traditional patterns, for a pattern suitable for party-wear, the case applying flowers such as the Japanese apricot flower, lotus flower, and peony was the highest. The second, among the several patterns used Dancheong that was represented by a Korean image of a lotus flower pattern because of the characteristics of strong vitality and blooming in dirty mud was often used for the pattern of clothes. The third, under the motive of the results of the survey and Dancheong's lotus flower pattern, we developed 2 methods of one piece and accessory coordination, 2 methods of top and skirt coordination, and 1 method of jacket and one piece coordination as the party-wear.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.90-97
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• 2013

Oil booms are one of the most widely used types of equipment for the protection of coastal areas against oil spills. In some situations, however, there are several types of oil leaks from the oil boom. Important factors regarding these phenomena include the surrounding ocean environment, such as waves, the density and viscosity of oil, the length of the oil boom skirt, etc. To estimate the performance of the oil boom, it is necessary to predict the behavior of the spilled oil and oil boom. In the present study, the prediction of oil boom performance in waves was carried out using the Pusan-National-University-modified Moving Particle Semi-implicit (PNU-MPS) method, which is an improved version of the original MPS proposed by Koshizuka and Oka (1996). The governing equations, which consist of continuity and Navier-Stokes equations, are solved by Lagrangian moving particles, and all terms expressed by differential operators in the governing equations are replaced by the particle interaction models based on a kernel function. The simulation results were validated through a comparison with the results of Violeau et al. (2007)..