• 대한화장품학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한화장품학회 2003년도 IFSCC Conference Proceeding Book II
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• pp.108-109
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• 2003

Ursolic acid (UA) and Oleanolic acid (ONA), known as urson, micromerol, prunol and malol, are pentacyclic triterpenoid compounds which naturally occur in a large number of vegetarian foods, medicinal herbs, and plants. They may occur in their free acid form or as aglycones for triterpenoid saponins, which are comprised of a triterpenoid aglycone, linked to one or more sugar moieties. Therefore UA and ON A are similar in pharmacological activity. Lately scientific research, which led to the identification of UA and ONA, revealed that several pharmacological effects, such as antitumor, hepatoprotective, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and anti-hyperlipidemic could be attributed to UA and ONA. Here, we introduced the effects of UA and ONA on acute barrier disruption and normal epidermal permeability barrier function. To clarify the effects of UA and ONA on skin barrier recovery, both flank skin of 8-12 weeks hairless mice were topically treated with samples (2mg/ml) after tape stripping, then measured recovery rate using TEWL on hairless mice. The recovery rate increased in UA and ONA treated groups at 6h more than 20% compared to vehicle treated group (p <0.05). For verifying the effects of UA and ONA on normal epidermal barrier, hydration and TEWL were measured for 1 and 3 weeks after UA and ONA applications (2mg/ml per day). We also investigated the features of epidermis and dermis using electron microscopy (EM) and light microscopy (LM). Both samples increased hydration compared to Vehicle group from 1 week without TEWL alteration (p<0.005). EM examination using Ru04 and OsO4 fixation revealed that secretion and numbers of lamellar bodies and complete formation of lipid bilayers were most prominent (ONA$\geq$UA>Vehicle). LM finding showed that stratum corneum was slightly increased and especially epidermal thickening and flattening was observed (UA>ONA>Vehicle). Using Masson-trichrome and elastic fiber staining, we observed collagen thickening and elastic fiber increasing by UA and ONA treatments. In vitro results of collagen and elastin synthesis and elastase inhibitory experiments were also confirmed in vivo findings. This result suggested that the effects of UA and ONA related to not only skin barrier but also collagen and elastic fibers. Taken together, UA and ONA can be relevant candidates to improve barrier function and pertinent agents for cosmetic applications.

• 한국자원식물학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국자원식물학회 2023년도 임시총회 및 춘계학술대회
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• pp.40-40
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• 2023

Atopic dermatitis is a chronic inflammatory skin diseases caused by skin barrier dysfunction. Allium victoralis var. Platyphyllum (AVP) is a perennial plant used as vegetable and herbal medicine. The purpose of this study was to suggest that AVP is a new cosmetic material by examining the effects of AVP on the skin barrier and inflammatory response. A bibliometric network analysis was performed through keyword co-occurrence analysis by extracting author keyword from 69 articles retrieved from SCOPUS. We noted the anti-inflammatory activity shown by the results of clustering and mapping from network visualization analysis using VOSviewer software tool. HPLC-UV analysis showed that AVP contains 0.12 ± 0.02 mg/g of chlorogenic acid and 0.10 ± 0.01 mg/g of gallic acid. AVP at 100 ㎍/mL was shown to increase the mRNA levels of filaggrin and involucrin related to skin barrier function by 1.50-fold and 1.43-fold, respectively. In the scratch assay, AVP at concentrations of 100 ㎍/mL and 200 ㎍/mL significantly increased the cell migration rate and narrowed the scratch area. In addition, AVP suppressed the increase of inflammation-related factors COX-2 and NO and decreased the release of β-hexosaminidase. This study suggests that AVP can be developed as a functional cosmetic material for atopy management through skin barrier protection effects, anti-inflammatory and anti-itch effects.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.6-16
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• 1998

Ceramides are currently emerging as the major skin care ingredients due to !heir barrier properties in the stratum corneum of the human skin. Thus, major cosmetic companies have developed synthetic ceramide analogs for their own use. In this study, several ceramide mimic compounds , new skin barrier lipids, were designed and synthesized, and their physical and biological properties were investigated to evaluate their skin care capability. Several structures were designed from the variation of hydrophobic alkyl chain and hydrophilic moiety by the use of molecular modeling software. The selected targets were synthesized, and their properties and activities were studied as the pure form, in the emulsion, or in the lamellar mixture containing cholesterol and fatty acid. Some compounds, such as 1,3-bis(N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-palmitoylamino)-2-hydroxypropane, enhanced the restoration of skin barrier damaged by SDS(sodium dodecyl sulfate), and by acetone treatment. The rate of restoration was comparable to that of natural ceramides. The synthesized compounds alleviated SDS induced skin irritation and facilitated lamellar phase liquid crystal formation. The treatment of 1,3-Dis(N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-palmitoylam ino)-2-hyd roxypropane on the acetone damaged skin revealed that the compound promoted the recovery of intercellular lipid lamellar structure of stratum corneum layer. The replacement of palmitoyl groups of the compound with shorter alkyl chain gave lower emulsion viscosity and liquid crystal density, suggesting easier formulation and poorer barrier activity. Most of the synthesized compounds were non-irritable in various toxicological tests proving that they can be safely introduced to the skin care formulations.

• Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.10.1-10.14
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• 2019

Fish skin waste accounts for part of the solid waste generated from seafood processing. Utilization of fish skin by bioconversion into high-grade products would potentially reduce pollution and economic cost associated with treating fish processing waste. Fish skin is an abundant supply of gelatin and collagen which can be hydrolyzed to produce bioactive peptides of 2-20 amino acid sequences. Bioactivity of peptides purified from fish skin includes a range of activities such as antihypertensive, anti-oxidative, antimicrobial, neuroprotection, antihyperglycemic, and anti-aging. Fish skin acts as a physical barrier and chemical barrier through antimicrobial peptide innate immune action and other functional peptides. Small peptides have been demonstrated to possess biological activities which are based on their amino acid composition and sequence. Fish skin-derived peptides contain a high content of hydrophobic amino acids which contribute to the antioxidant and angiotensin-converting enzyme inhibitory activity. The peptide-specific composition and sequence discussed in this review can be potentially utilized in the development of pharmaceutical and nutraceutical products.

• Environmental Analysis Health and Toxicology
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.159-167
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• 2009

To investigate the alleviative effects of Peonia japonica water extract(PJWE) on inflammation and skin barrier damage, both the irradiation of UVB and the application of squalene monohydroperoxide (Sq-OOH) to the backs of hairless mice were performed for 4 weeks. And at the same time experimental materials were applied topically. The skin erythema indices for the positive control (PC, 0.01% retinoic acid) and experimental (E, PJWE) groups were lower than that of the control (C) group. Whereas both the lipid and water capacities for the PC and E groups were higher than those of the C group. Epidermis and dermis of the C group were remarkably thickened in comparison with the PC and E groups. Relatively much less number of inflammatory cells, including lymphocytes, neutrophils and macrophages were found in dermis of the PC and E groups compared with the C group. Lipid lamellae of the C group were broken severely showing an irregular arrangement and lipid content was much reduced. Whereas those of the PC and E groups were almost intact with a regular arrangement, which were similar to that of the N group. Taken the results all together, it was confirmed that PJWE could be effective natural herbal material for the alleviation of inflammation and skin barrier damage in hairless mice skin which were induced by UVB and Sq-OOH.

• 대한본초학회지
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• 제38권3호
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• pp.19-26
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• 2023

Objectives : Agrimoniae Herba is a herbal medicine widely distributed in Asia and contains flavonoids including catechin, quercitrin, rutin, hyperoside, and quercetin. This study aimed to investigate the anti-oxidant activity and skin barrier function of different solvent fractions (Hexane; methylene chloride, MC; ethyl acetate, EA; n-butanol, Bu; Water) obtained from Agrimoniae Herba. Methods : Anti-oxidant activity of different solvent fractions obtained from Agrimoniae Herba was investigated through total polyphenol contents, total flavonoid contents, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) free radical scavenging activity, and 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) radical scavenging activity measurements. Then, filament aggregating protein (Filaggrin), Type I collagen, ceramide synthase (CERS) 3, and CERS4 were analyzed to evaluate the skin barrier strengthening effect of different solvent fractions obtained from Agrimoniae Herba on UVB-stimulated HaCaT cells. Results : As a result of measuring total polyphenol contents, total flavonoid contents, DPPH free radical scavenging activity, and ABTS radical scavenging activity, antioxidant activity was found to be excellent in the order of EA > Bu > MC > Hexane > Water. As a result of measuring mRNA gene expression of Type I collagen, Filaggrin, CERS3, and CERS4 after UVB-stimulated was applied to HaCaT cells treated with different solvent fractions obtained from Agrimoniae Herba, it was found to increase significantly in the Bu-treated group. Conclusion : Our findings show that the Bu sample obtained from Agrimoniae Herba has excellent anti-oxidant ability, which increases Type I collagen, Filaggrin, and ceramide synthetase in UVB-stimulated HaCaT cells to control the skin barrier improvement effect.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제34권1호
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• pp.1-8
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• 2008

피부장벽을 포함한 표피층은 인체의 조직 가운데에서도 가장 역동적인 기관이다. 다시 말해서 끊임없이 새로운 표피세포의 형성, 분화 및 탈각과정이 반복되면서 표피항상성(epidermal homeostasis)을 유지한다. 표피항상성은 피부기능 가운데 가장 주요한 기능인 permeability barrier homeostasis의 확립으로 연결된다. Permeability barrier homeostasis는 각질층에서 이루어지며 이를 형성하고 유지하기 위해 매우 정교하게 조절되어야 한다. 표피항상성을 조절하는 핵심 조절인자로서 nuclear hormone receptor(NHR)가 중심에 있음이 최근 다양한 연구를 통해 입증되었다. 이들은 각질세포 특이적인 단백질, 즉, involucrin, loricrin 및 trans-glutaminase 1(TG 1) 등의 발현을 유전자 수준에서 조절할 뿐 아니라 표피 지질성분의 생합성을 증가시키는 등 피부장벽을 구성하는 brick 및 mortar의 생성과 유지에 핵심적 역할을 하는 것으로 알려졌다. NHR 가운데 peroxisome proliferator activator receptor(PPAR)와 liver X receptor(LXR)의 activator/ligands가 리놀레인산 등 지방산, leukotriene, prostanoid 및 oxygenated sterol 등이 지질대사과정에서 형성된 지질 종류인 까닭에 liposensor로도 알려지고 있다. 따라서 liposensor들을 비롯한 PPAR과 LXR activator/ligands들은 피부장벽기능이 저해된 아토피성 피부를 포함하여 건조피부를 관리하는 epidermotherapy의 수단으로서 잠재적 가능성이 있다고 생각된다.

• Biomolecules & Therapeutics
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• 제27권6호
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• pp.553-561
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• 2019

Rab25, a member of the Rab11 small GTPase family, is central to achieving cellular polarity in epithelial tissues. Rab25 is highly expressed in epithelial cells of various tissues including breast, vagina, cervix, the gastrointestinal tract, and skin. Rab25 plays key roles in tumorigenesis, mainly by regulating epithelial differentiation and proliferation. However, its role in skin physiology is relatively unknown. In this study, we demonstrated that Rab25 knock-out (KO) mice show a skin barrier dysfunction with high trans-epidermal water loss and low cutaneous hydration. To examine this observation, we investigated the histology and epidermal differentiation markers of the skin in Rab25 KO mice. Rab25 KO increased cell proliferation at the basal layer of epidermis, whereas the supra-basal layer remained unaffected. Ceramide, which is a critical lipid component for skin barrier function, was not altered by Rab25 KO in its distribution or amount, as determined by immunohistochemistry. Notably, levels of epidermal differentiation markers, including loricrin, involucrin, and keratins (5, 14, 1, and 10) increased prominently in Rab25 KO mice. In line with this, depletion of Rab25 with single hairpin RNA increased the expression of differentiation markers in a human keratinocyte cell line, HaCaT. Transcriptomic analysis of the skin revealed increased expression of genes associated with skin development, epidermal development, and keratinocyte differentiation in Rab25 KO mice. Collectively, these results suggested that Rab25 is involved in the regulation of epidermal differentiation and proliferation.

• 대한한방소아과학회지
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• 제35권3호
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• pp.128-137
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• 2021

Objective The purpose of this study was to confirm the effectiveness of coptidis rhizoma extract-ceramide complex on skin barrier, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and pH reduction, and inflammation of the skin. Methods Coptidis rhizoma extract-ceramide complex was applied in 6-week-old Balb/C mice after dermatitis was induced. To confirm the skin condition changes, TEWL and pH were observed, and filaggrin in the stratum corneum of the skin was observed. Kallikrein-related peptidase (KLK) 7, Protease activated receptor (PAR)-2, Thymic stromal lymphopoietin (TSLP), and IL-4 were observed in the stratum corneum to confirm the changes in the inflammatory response. Results Filaggrin positive reaction was increased in the experiment group compared to the control group. TEWL and pH were lower in the experiment group compared to the control group. KLK7, PAR2, TSLP, and IL-4 positive responses were decreased in the experiment group compared to the control group. Conclusions It was confirmed that the coptidis rhizoma extract-ceramide complex can relieve the inflammatory response of atopic dermatitis by restoring the skin lipid barrier damage.

• 대한한방소아과학회지
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• 제32권3호
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• pp.90-99
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• 2018

Objectives Hwangnyeonhaedok-tang is a Korean herbal medical treatment that removes toxic heat, fever and inflammation. The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of Hwangnyeonhaedok-tang treatment on the relief of atopic dermatitis (AD) through regeneration of skin lipid barrier. Methods Male NC/Nga mice (20 g, 6 week age) were used. Each 10 mice were allocated to the control group (Ctrl), the AD-induced with no treatment group (AE), and the group which induced AD after administering Hwangnyeonhaedok-tang extract (HT). To induce AD-like skin lesions, sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) (Sigma-Aldrich, USA) was rubbed on the back of each mouse to remove the lipid lamella of the stratum corneum, and Dermatophagoides (D.) farinae crude extract was applied. HT group was orally administered Hwangnyeonhaedok-tang after induction of AD. IL-4 IL-13, $p-I{\kappa}B$, iNOS, Sudan Black B (SB), loricrin, and filaggrin were observed to confirm the effect. Results In HT group, AD skin score was decreased by 46%. The cytokine IL-4 and IL-13, which can identify Th2 differentiation, was reduced by 73% and 58% each. Anti-inflammatory effects were observed in $p-I{\kappa}B$ and iNOS by 69% and 54%, respectively. Finally, SB showed that the regeneration of the lipid layer and the increase of the regeneration power of loricrin and filaggrin were increased by 437% and 464%, respectively. Conclusions From the study result, we observed that Hwangnyeonhaedok-tang treatment alleviates AD by decreasing skin score, reducing Th2 differentiation, inducing anti-inflammatory, and increasing skin lipid barrier regeneration. Thus, Hwangnyeonhaedok-tang treatment would be considered as an effective AD relieving treatment.