• Title/Summary/Keyword: silver jewelry

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O Valor Documental dos Balangandãs: Uma Análise Simbólica e Formal

  • Carmo, Sura Souza;Borges, Luiz C.
    • Iberoamérica
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    • v.23 no.1
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    • pp.79-111
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    • 2021
  • The purpose of this article is to present the potential of balangandãs as a documentary source for intersectional studies of gender and slavery, from the analysis of formal and symbolic aspects of the museum objects in the Museu Nacional Nacional (MHN) and Museu Carlos Costa Pinto (MCCP). Balangandãs are a type of creole jewelry, made in gold or silver and used in Brazil since the 18th century by black women - women who worked, especially in the commercialization of foodstuffs in large urban centers. They are described in printed sources and engravings, and preserved in some museum institutions. In the study, the meanings attributed to the object over the centuries are observed: jewelry, amulet, peculium, document, travel memory and heritage. As a result, the article seeks to highlight the objects as a historical and documentary source, verifying similarities between the pieces musealized at the MHN and at the MCCP, also emphasizing the documental power of the pieces produced today.

Property of Ge, In Added Silver Alloy with Plastic Deformation (Ge, In 첨가 은합금 주조물의 가압성형에 따른 물성변화 연구)

  • Kim, Jun-Hwan;Song, Oh-Sung
    • Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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    • v.11 no.5
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    • pp.1547-1551
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    • 2010
  • We newly propose the silver alloys of Ag-5wt%Ge-2.5wt%Cu(Ge1) and Ag-5wt%In-2.5wt%(In1) to overcome the tarnish and mechanically weak problems of the conventional sterling silver Ag-7.5wt%Cu (Cu1). We check the castability, surface color stability during process and wearing, and work hardening with plastic deformation of all three silver alloys. Our newly proposed silver alloys of Ge1 and In1 showed improved castability, anti-tarnish stability, and work hardening property compared to the conventional sterling silver, which implied that these alloys might be more appropriate for the high-end silver jewelry.

Properties of Porous Silver with Polysiloxane Addition (다공성 은의 폴리실록센 첨가에 따른 물성 변화)

  • Kim, Eun-seok;Kim, Ik-gyu;Kim, Kwangbae;Song, Ohsung
    • Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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    • v.21 no.8
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    • pp.603-611
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    • 2020
  • A porous material which can contain liquid perfume was manufactured by adding 1~4 wt% of polysiloxane into a composite containing 20 ㎛ Ag powder and 30 wt% of 53 ㎛ salt, sintering for 60 min at 750℃, and melting salt selectively. The changes in pore, hardness, and microstructure were confirmed according to the polysiloxane content both before and after sintering. The manufactured silver liquid container was formed with open pores both before and after sintering, and the container shrunk by 2~7 % in both perpendicular and parallel directions after sintering. Vickers hardness was increased after sintering and was doubled when 2 wt% of polysiloxane was added. In case of the microstructure, the surface condition of the silver liquid container became darker according to the polysiloxane content, and the pore size was decreased from 50 ㎛ to under 10 ㎛. The composition distribution result revealed an even distribution when 2 wt% of polysiloxane was added but uneven distribution when over 3 wt% of polysiloxane was added due to decreased hardness by cluster. Therefore, the addition of an appropriate amount of 2 wt% polysiloxane reinforced the porous silver with open pores to offer application for jewelry usage.

Fashion Design Studies on Reinterpretation of Chinese Ethnic Minority Costumes (중국 소수민족의 의상을 재해석한 패션디자인 연구)

  • Zhang, Yi;Kim, Sook-Jin
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.13 no.2
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    • pp.175-183
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    • 2011
  • Based on an investigation of Miao ethnic group costumes, this research focuses on redesigning and reinterpreting of the Miao costume. The results are summarized as follows. According to the constitution of the clothes, the decorative parts and the way people wear them, women's clothing can be divided into five categories: Sangseohyeong, Geomjungnamhyeong A, Geomjungnamhyeong B, Cheongeomjeonhyeong, Haenamhyeong. Miao consists of straight lines with creases for both skirts and trousers. With the excess part of the belt or apron, X-shape and H-shape are formed. There are three basic decorative patterns: geometric patterns, animal patterns and plant patterns. In addition, there are three color values: warm, cool and dark. Silver Jewelry plays such an important role in the Miao Costume that the process of the production is also very special for the Chinese national dress. According to the features of the five types of Miao, then redesign and re-interpreted of them.

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Development of the Ag/Cu Ingots for Mokumegane Jewelry (모꾸메가네 장신구를 위한 은/동 접합 잉곳 소재 개발)

  • Song, Oh-Sung;Kim, Jong-Ryul;Kim, Myung-Ro
    • Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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    • v.9 no.1
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    • pp.9-15
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    • 2008
  • Mokumegane is one of the sophisticated metal craft techniques enabling wood grain surface effect. To embody the mokumegane, an ingot of well-bonded stacked metal plates has been required. Traditionally prepared mokumegane ingots were bonded using charcoal which enables reduction atmosphere, but sometimes end up with collapse of bonding interface due to the lack of reliable process control. We proposed a systematic vacuum direct bonding process for ingots. First, we confirmed copper//copper homogeneous plate bonding at $900^{\circ}C$ by applying uniaxial press of 2.5kg. We observed 80min required to obtain 90%-bonding ratio and the diffusion coefficient would be enhanced up to 100 times due to surface effect. Second, by considering enhanced diffusion behavior, we also obtained optimum bonding condition in copper/silver heterogeneous plates that ensures 90%-bonding ratio at $700^{\circ}C$ for 10min with apply uniaxial press. A 7-layered copper/silver ingot is prepared successfully, and eventually the prototype mokumegane cases for mobile phone were fabricated with these ingot.

A Study of Cultural Products based on the Traditional Temple Culture (전통사찰문화를 기반으로 한 문화상품 현황에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Sun-Young;Choi, Young-Soon
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.14 no.3
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    • pp.363-370
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    • 2012
  • This study is for the development of fashion cultural products that simultaneously evolved with the contemporary use of traditional temple culture in addition, it analyzed the cultural products available in the Korean market. Methodology, this study conducted a literature review and empirical research. We targeted the cultural products carried at twelve web-based shopping malls for Buddhist cultural products and six souvenir shops in Korean Buddhist temples to collect data on those products in order to analyze the items, design motives, materials, and price ranges. The study results showed that interior items represented the largest portion of the targeted goods, followed by accessories/sundries, clothing/fashion items, stationery, and tableware. The most commonly used design motive was lotuses, followed by the images of Buddha or Buddhist Goddesses and Dharma. The most common materials include fibers, jewelry (such as gold and silver), wood, metals, ceramics, paper, and plastic. The most active price range was between KRW10,000 and KRW50,000, followed by less than KRW10,000 and KRW100,000 to less than KRW500,000. This study discovered the potential for traditional temple culture to advance it further in a contemporary manner and indicated the need to develop a wide variety of cultural products and emphasize its global acceptance.

The Glam Style Expressed in the Movie "Velvet Goldmine" (영화(映畵) "벨벳 골드마인(Velvet Goldmine)"에 나타난 글램 스타일(Glam Style))

  • Kim, Eun-Ah;Yum, Hae-Jung
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.5 no.1
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    • pp.73-85
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    • 2001
  • The purpose of this study is to understand what the Glam Style is, focus on the movie "Velvet Goldmine". The Glam Style is refered early 1970s Glam rockers' costume, typified by silver lurex, corksoled platform, men in make-up, personified, for example, by David Bowie, Marc Bolan, New York Dolls, Roxy Music and Iggy Pop. To approach the Glam Style comprehensively, I have divided the formative background of Glam Style into the improvement technology, the advent of the young generation and the diffusion of mass media, the rock music fever and influence on Pop art. Following is the result of analyzing of the character in the movie. First, Brian Slade has the flamboyant transsexual image by skin-tight space suit, glitter pants, lurex, satin and sequined stretch fabrics, vivid color, gauze make-up, feather boa. Second, Curt Wild expresses the outrageous sexual image by black leather jacket, emphasized black eyes make-up. Third, Mandy Slade appears the exaggerated and frivolous image by gold leopard patterned one piece, fur coat, ornamented with beads, tropical make-up, spangles and the costume jewelry. Forth, Auther Stuart has the complex image by black leather jacket, velvet jacket, skin-tight bold shirt, glitter pants, glitter make-up, silk scarf, cherry-red sunglasses. The characteristics meaning of Glam Style implied in this formative characteristic could be presented as the experimental expression of androgynous, the hordes of outrageous alien and kitsch parody.

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A Study of the Personal Ornaments and Make-up of Maroccan (모로코인(人)의 장신구(裝身具)와 화장(化粧)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究))

  • Lee, Soon-Hong
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.5 no.2
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    • pp.15-34
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    • 2001
  • Ornaments are accessories for the decoration of the body or dress. They aren't unavoidably required one, but serve to make one's dress perfect as decorative industrial art objects. In Morocco, ornaments were initially used as a sign of social position or the class or an incantatory symbol. In effect, they were originally employed to adjust one's dress, not just for decoration, and they were of use for household economy. Gold, silver and handcraft available for exchange were a means of increasing one's property and an indication of social standing and wealth. In particular, the dress and jewelry of a bride was a measure of her family's wealth, regarded as a symbol of her chastity and value. The ornaments symbolically back up people's faith in supernatural power, and their real value is based on implicit form or way of decoration, not the external shape. Specifically, there is a tendency to use the form of animal as a protector, not one to frighten people. In the artistic tradition of Morocco, fish pattern stands for water and rain, and eagle and bird are considered to be related to fate. Scorpion and lizard are depicted as an inquirer of sun, and snake is a symbol of abundance and sexual instinct, being viewed to have an ability to cure disease. Turtle pattern is a symbol of saint because it protects one from the evil. The ornaments are made of gold, silver, amber, clam, garnet, glass, nielle, enamel, glaze, coral or tree, and symbolic patterns are used, including hand(a symbol of five numerals), turtle, lizard, scorpion, eye, triangle, bird and eggs. They are very big and diverse, being categorized into ornaments for the head or the chest, neckless, fibula, earring, bracelet and ring. For Moroccans, make-up is a sort of instinctive behavior to meet aesthetic and sexual desire. They also wear make-up for practical purpose of protection, intentionally inflict a wound on the skin for ceremonial or religious purpose, paint the skin with pigment, or have the part of the body tattooed for incantatory purpose. All this actions are regarded as make-up. The raw material of cosmetics is aker, a vegetable dye. They get the lips or cheeks turn red and paint eyebrows with yellow saffran powder to have a bad devil lose its strength. Tattooing is mainly done by women and viewed as a sign of their value or social organization they belong to. Sometimes that is used to represent a woman's being old enough to marry or getting married already or the frequency of marriage. Besides, tattoo is believed to prevent or remedy loose bowels or cough, depending on its location or pattern, and they often change tattoo according to the change of beauty art.

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Investigating the Au-Cu thick layers Electrodeposition Rate with Pulsed Current by Optimization of the Operation Condition

  • Babaei, Hamid;Khosravi, Morteza;Sovizi, Mohamad Reza;Khorramie, Saeid Abedini
    • Journal of Electrochemical Science and Technology
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    • v.11 no.2
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    • pp.172-179
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    • 2020
  • The impact of effective parameters on the electrodeposition rate optimization of Au-Cu alloy at high thicknesses on the silver substrate was investigated in the present study. After ensuring the formation of gold alloy deposits with the desired and standard percentage of gold with the cartage of 18K and other standard karats that should be observed in the manufacturing of the gold and jewelry artifacts, comparing the rate of gold-copper deposition by direct and pulsed current was done. The rate of deposition with pulse current was significantly higher than direct current. In this process, the duty cycle parameter was effectively optimized by the "one factor at a time" method to achieve maximum deposition rate. Particular parameters in this work were direct and pulse current densities, bath temperature, concentration of gold and cyanide ions in electrolyte, pH, agitation and wetting agent additive. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and surface chemical analysis system (EDS) were used to study the effect of deposition on the cross-sections of the formed layers. The results revealed that the Au-Cu alloy layer formed with concentrations of 6gr·L-1 Au, 55gr·L-1 Cu, 24 gr·L-1 KCN and 1 ml·L-1 Lauryl dimethyl amine oxide (LDAO) in the 0.6 mA·cm-2 average current density and 30% duty cycle, had 0.841 ㎛·min-1 Which was the highest deposition rate. The use of electrodeposition of pure and alloy gold thick layers as a production method can reduce the use of gold metal in the production of hallow gold artifacts, create sophisticated and unique models, and diversify production by maintaining standard karats, hardness, thickness and mechanical strength. This will not only make the process economical, it will also provide significant added value to the gold artifacts. By pulsating of currents and increasing the duty cycle means reducing the pulse off-time, and if the pulse off-time becomes too short, the electric double layer would not have sufficient growth time, and its thickness decreases. These results show the effect of pulsed current on increasing the electrodeposition rate of Au-Cu alloy confirming the previous studies on the effect of pulsed current on increasing the deposition rate of Au-Cu alloy.