• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권5호
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• pp.691-703
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• 2013

The costume culture of ladies in late Goryeo is an important and rare source for cultural fashion souvenir design. This study investigates the historical costume design sources of late Goryeo to suggest high quality traditional and practical ornament souvenir designs for female dolls as well as examples of coordination with doll costumes. The costume culture of late Goryeo contained golden Buddhism and a revival of $12^{th}$ century Goryeo costume characteristic after the period of Mongolian influences from the Yuan. The main sources for doll ornament designs are $14^{th}$ century Buddhist paintings, a few ornament relics of Goryeo, ancient literature, and portraits of ladies in the $14^{th}$ century that originated from five doll's traditional ornaments (lotus hairpin, cloud-shaped hairpin, Buddhist flower hair ornament, vase-shaped Binyeo, and bell of animalhuman face) and three wig designs (wigs from Buddhist paintings and portraits, and hairpiece) with bleached gilding silver, silk, various gemstones and synthetic hair. These doll ornament and wig designs imply the symbol of Buddhism, exorcism, and costume culture of $14^{th}$ century Goryeo ladies that can be matched with two doll gowns, half-sleeved jacket, skirt, two Jogoris, apron, under trousers as formal, semi-formal, and town-wear according to the T.P.O of late Goryeo; in addition, five ornaments can be used as owner's ornaments. The partial changing colors and materials due to the characteristics of doll ornament goods as well as better communication between researcher and constructor remain to be improved.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.258-268
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to consider incense culture found in costume and life in forms of carrying and decoration. Here, incense for carrying and decoration is classified into two cases, using it as a costume accessory and life space. Hyangjumony, Hyangnorigae, Hyangjul, Hyangdae and Hyangseonchu were costume accessories. Hyangjumony was not only used for the royal palanguin, but also for bedroom. When Poetic Literature, and other ancient publications were reviewed in regard to incense for carrying and decoration, it was estimated that incense began to be carried for the first time before the late period of Shilla(9C). In addition, it was found that incense was not just a personal taste, but one of important gifts exchanged between states, envoys of different nations and between sovereign and subject and that incense was a necessary costume accessory for men. Types of incense for carrying and decoration used in this nation are classified into Hyangjumony, Hyangnorigae, Hyangjul and Hyangseonchu. Hyangjumony is a fabric pouch that contains incense. Hyangnorigae is Norigae whose main material is incense. Hyangjul is a string to which incense is hanged. Hyangseonchu is Seonchu whose main material is incense. Incense for carrying and decoration was based on five colors that symbolize cosmic order and harmony, of which red and purple were mostly used. Red strongly suggests expelling Yin with Yang, or exorcism. The color gives a strong impression, so it was often used to make a carried incense more decorating. Main materials of incense for carrying and decoration were gold, silver, precious stone and horsehair. They are different in characteristics, but were used appropriately for incense fragrance and decoration. Patterns mainly used for the incense had shapes of animal, plant, sipjangsaeng and letter. These were all auspicious patterns that symbolize human wishes and desires, especially individual and family happiness.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.348-365
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to develop Korean clothing designs that can satisfy future consumer's needs based on the elements extracted through the content analysis method in a study on the design elements expressed in traditional outfits in the 2010s. To this end, data analyzing Hanbok in wedding magazines were used, and after extracting design elements, research methods for empirical design development were used. After subclassifying the major design elements, factors with a steady increase in frequency and appearance rate were identified. Through this, five elements capable of aesthetic sampling were extracted by complex expression methods and expressed in a total of seven combinations. The types extracted from the design elements are items, silhouette, top shape, skirt shape, skirt length, mixed items with increasing frequency. In the element of color, the adjacent color harmony, which showed the highest frequency of color, and the white-blue harmony, which showed an increase among them, were extracted. When using materials, top and skirt have similar usage rates of the same and different materials, so both contents were extracted, and many patterns were arranged in the top and the whole, but these three were extracted because there were increasing cases where there were no patterns. In the case of decoration, embroidery, pintuck, sakdong, applique, lace, ribbon on the top, silver foil and print on the skirt were extracted. Through this study, it was possible to propose a future Korean costume design model.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.335-341
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• 2008

This study aims to present the basic information on ready-made clothes production for middle-aged women by examining the clothing-related problems due to the body-shape changes of middle-aged women, and accordingly analyzing the satisfaction level with the purchasing and size of ready-made clothes among the 40-50's women. For this study, a survey was conducted to find out the satisfaction level with the purchasing and size of ready-made clothes. Among the total of 450 copies of questionnaires, 443 were collected, 400 of which were used in the analysis leaving out the rest imperfect ones. SPSS 11.0 Program was used in data analysis to get the frequency and percentage of each item. As for the preferred styles according to the age, respondents aged 45-49 preferred sweaters and trousers most, while most of middle-aged women preferred blouses and trousers most. As for the preferred styles according to occupations and body figures, most of middle-aged women preferred blouses and trousers most. The findings of this study examining the actual conditions of ready-made clothes purchase and wearing, and size satisfaction among the 40-50's women, who will be at the center of the aging populations in the Super-aged society highlight the need to correct the problems of adherence only to the prices, measures, and aesthetic aspects of fashion trends, to meet the requirements and preferences of ready-made clothes for aging women, and fulfill satisfactory functions according to the body figures in the upcoming Super-aged society.