• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제28권4호
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• pp.253-270
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• 2016

In the wool textile industry, the necessity for technology development has been steadily raised to create improved fineness and yarn count of existing wool yarns with thick fineness for ensuring higher quality grades of wool yarn. Recently, through controlling fineness of wool yarn for making finer wool in relation with environmentally-friendly and high-sensitivity trend, a differentiated continuous drawing process where the quality of wool can be artificially manipulated has been suggested in the latest textile industry. This study investigated the basic conditions during the continuous drawing process which enable to manufacture wool yarn with fine count by controlling reducing agent treatment, physical drawing and drying after reducing agent treatment, and oxidizing agent post-treatment conditions. Furthermore, this study reviewed the drawing effects by applying the basic conditions for reduction and oxidation reaction in the drawing processes of wool/cashmere, wool/silk, wool/polyester blended yarns as well as such wool yarns. Also, in order to review the practicability, this study examined the physical properties and dyeability of drawn wool yarn applied textile materials in comparison with normal wool yarn applied textile materials.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.73-86
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• 1993

The development of Korean textile industry has continued for the early industrialization. But a change in situation of circumstances, textile industry undergoes hard times. To overcome the barrier, therefore, technical development and design innovation are needed to make high value added product. This paper try to put to practical use of the silk weighting process technique(WPT). First, we investigate the technical trend of WPT to summarize the theory, and examine the feasibility of technical development. Second, the application of Graft process to silk textile is examined to know whether it is possible as an practical use. Next, we present the practical way of WPT using MAA monomer through experiment. The results are as follow. 1) Considering the lack of silk yarn. Graft process is appropriate new technique to make the value added product, and fine quality. 2) Studing textile goods, it need inter-displlinary co-work not only fiber engineering scope because textile goods is closely related with fashion industry. 3) MAA monomer used in this paper is more excellent then other monomer because it has good weighting effect and does not harm to the nature of textile. 4) MAA WPT is good for silk textiles of ladies jacket and neck-tie.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.58-66
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• 1987

견직유와 견 crepe에 대한 papain효소의 정련효과와 정련견의 물리적 특성을 검토하기 위하여 이 실험을 수행하였다. 정련효과를 비교하기 위하여 정련제로서는 비누와 소다, 비누-소다 및 papain효소를 사용하였으며, 시료로는 고치층과 생사 및 silk crepe를 공시하였다. 정련견의 특성항목으로서는 광학현미경에 의한 lousiness의 출현비율, Tensile-shear tester(KES-FBI)를 사용한 인장특성, bending tester(KES-FB2)를 사용한 굽힘특성을 측정하는 한편 Handle-o-meter를 사용하여 정련된 crepe의 유건성을 측정하였다. 이 실험에서 얻어진 결과를 요약하면 아래와 같다. 1. papain효소 정련의 특성은 전처리를 실시하는 경우, 고치층, 생사 및 silk crepe가 비누, 소다, 비누-소다 정련법에 의하여 연감율이 높았다. 2. papain효소로 정련한 결과, 생사에 발생하는 lousiness를 억제할 수가 있어서 견직물의 lousiness 결점을 개선할 수 있었다. 3. 인장특성 실험 결과, papain효소로 정련한 crepe는 탄력성이 유지되면서, 직물의 변형이 적고 변형에 대한 회복력도 높았다. 4. papain효소로 정련한 crepe의 굽힘강성과 곡율이역현상은 비누나 소다 정련한 경우에 비하여 감소하였다. 5. papain효소로 정련한 crepe의 유건성은 비누나 소다로 정련한 경우에 비하여 양호하였다.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.265-268
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• 2009

Wild silkmoths can be utilised sustainably in the production of silk as an income for resource-poor rural communities. However, attack by parasitoids and predators affect the quality of cocoons and quantity of raw silk produced. A laboratory experiment was undertaken to quantify the effect of parasitoids' (dipteran and hymenopteran) and predators' (ants) exit and ingress holes, respectively, on silk production. The mean number of shells required to produce fifty grams of raw silk was highest with cocoons parasitised by a dipteran and lowest with unattacked cocoons (but with moths already emerged). Degumming loss was highest in parasitised and lowest in unttacked cocoons, but both were not different from cocoons predated by ants. Shell weight was highest in unattacked cocoons, followed by hymenopteran-parasitised and predated cocoons, with the dipteran parasitized ones being the least. Single cocoon weight was greater in hymenopteran-parasitised and predated cocoons than the dipteran-parasitised and unattacked cocoons. Shell ratio or raw silk, floss and yarn weights were higher in unattacked than parasitised and predated cocoons. The total loss in raw silk attributable to attack by parasitoids and predators ranged between 17.4~31.2%. The results offer baseline information for assessment of economic losses in wild silk farming due to parasitoids and predators in the field.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.861-871
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• 2014

This study explored applicability of natural dyeing and functional property of base paper using paper yarn and fabrics with green laver extracts. As a result of measuring dyeability and functional property of cotton, silk, and a blended fabric of cotton/mulberry, $60^{\circ}C$ and 40 minutes was the optimal dyeing condition for the cotton fabric under an alkali condition; $50^{\circ}C$ and 60 minutes for the silk fabric; $60^{\circ}C$ and 50 minutes for the blended fabric of cotton/mulberry. As a result of measuring the color fastness after dyeing cotton, silk and the blended fabric of cotton/mulberry, fastness to washing, water, rubbing, dry cleaning and light was superior. In terms of functional property, the silk and the blended fabric of cotton/mulberry were superior concerning antimicrobial properties of the fabric dyed with green laver extracts while the cotton fabric showed 90% or over. Regarding deodorization, the blended fabric of cotton/mulberry was the most superior. All the fabrics were harmless to the human body as they had heavy metal content below the standard. Considering the research results comprehensively, the green laver extracts possibly has enough applicability and functional property as a natural dyes. Moreover, it has potential to be developed new eco-friendly fashion materials.

• 복식
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• 제61권2호
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• pp.88-101
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• 2011

This study emphasizes on the characteristics of the excavated fabrics from the tomb of Kimwhoak in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. All of 118 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the tomb of Kimwhoak. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 63 pieces of spun silk tabby(53.6%), 14 of spun yarn silk(11.9%), 13 of thin filament silk tabby(11.0%), 8 of thin silk tabby(6.8%), 4 of satin without pattern(3.4%), 3 of filament silk tabby(2.5%), 3 of twill without pattern(2.5%), 2 of satin damask(1.7%), 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton(1.7%), and 2 of ramie fabric(1.7%), 1 of simple gauze without pattern(0.8%), 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread(0.8), 1 of cotton(0.8%), 1 of etc(0.8%). Classified by ways of weaving: 106 pieces of plain weave(89%), 6 of satin weave(5%), 3 of twill weave (3%), 1 of gauze weave(1%), 1 of compound weave(1%) and etc(1%). In point of patterns, the most of textiles are without pattern, there are only two of them are patterned textile. such as lotus patterns with vine, peony patterns with vine. Their patterns are very similar to those of other tombs in the same age.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.16-24
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• 1991

The textile fabric have the functions of sanitation, decoration, wearing style and washing in the practical use. Among various texitle fiber, silk has less utilities than synthetic fiber in practical use although silk has good benefits of the high quality. Thus no textile fiber, neither natural nor synthetic, has all the functions. In this sence, many blend yarns have been improved various functions of fabric. However, this has been disturbed with the problem of dyeing, especially in the case of blend fabric of silk. In this study, we dyed silk/PET blend fabric in one step useing one bath dyeing method by acid dyes/disperse dyes. The results of the experiments can be summarized as follows; 1) Yellow index of silk fabric treated at $130^{\circ}C$ increased about 7.8 (color difference 4.5 NBS) and whiteness decrease about 5%. 2) Both elongation and tensile strength of silk fabric treated at $130^{\circ}C$ of pH 5-6 decreased about 10% and tensile strength of silk spun yarn treated at $60^{\circ}C$ of pH 10 have little changed. 3) While silk/PET blend frbric dyeing, silk soiling of disperse dyes causes from difference of dyeing rate and degree of silk soiling with dyes. 4) Fastness and soiling of silk/PET blend fabric dyed by one bath dyeing method of acid dyes/disperse dyes was same as two bath dyeing method.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.496-501
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• 2009

In this study, a kiwifruit-produced protease was used to improve the quality of the wool and silk fabrics. The wool and silk were treated with the actinidin from kiwifruit. Following this protease treatment, changes in the surface of a single yarn of the fabrics were observed via both an optical microscope and a scanning electron microscope (SEM). In order to determine the amount of dye uptake in the fabric, changes in the K/S value of the wool and silk were measured by spectrophotometric analysis. Also, we performed a tensile strength examination to determine variation in their mechanical properties. By increasing the protease treatment time to 48h, the dyeing properties of fabrics were enhanced, and the surfaces of the single yarns of the fabrics became smoother, because of the removal of soil and scale in them. However, no mechanical changes were detected in the fabrics. Thereby, we suggest that the kiwifruit-produced actinidin treatment can improve the quality of the fabrics.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권5호
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• pp.31-40
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the change of the physical properties, bending and luster properties, which are related to the touch and appearance of silk fabrics modified by the degumming process. The silk has long been known as one of the most elegant and soft textile materials. The raw silk yarn, or cocoon bave, spun from the spinneret, is rather stiff due to the sericin covering the two fibroins together. The sericin can be removed during a degumming process. The removal of the sericin would result in remarkable change in the physical properties of the raw silk fabrics, including luster of the fabrics, which process parameters could possibly be utilized to adequately control the silk fabric properties. The KES(Kawabata Evaluation System) is a testing methodology that has been used with considerable success for predicting the hand and tailorability of apparel fabrics. This study uses one of the KES, bending tester, to measure the bending properties of the silk fabrics degummed for specified period to change the physical/mechanical properties of the fabric. The KES bending measurement revealed that the bending rigidity decreased for both the warp and weft direction of the silk fabrics with the increase of the degumming period. It has been shown in this study that the some of the hand-related physical properties, including the bending rigidity, drapability, and luster, could be modified with the change in the degumming period.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

This study analyzed the characteristics of Korean traditional plain weave excavated from Sang-go period to Joseon Dynasty. To do this, this study classified the Korean traditional plain weave into fiber types(cotton, hemp & ramie, plain weaved silk), analyzed and compared the thickness, twist type of yarns and density by times. First, in characteristics of cotton, the average and maximum density of Joseon Dynasty were higher than those of Goryeo, twist type was mainly s-twist and the density of warp was higher than that of weft. Second, the maximum density of hemp & ramie was found in era of Three Kingdoms of Korea. In common characteristics of hemp & ramie, twist type was mainly s-twist(sometimes non-twist) to the Three Kingdoms of Korea and was changed into non-twist from the Goryeo. The density of warp was higher than that of weft in common. Generally, the average density of ramie was higher than that of hemp. Third, in the characteristics of plain weaved silk, twist type was mainly non-twist(sometimes s and z-twist) from Sang-go period to Joseon Dynasty. Warp-faced ribbed tabby was excavated in Goryeo, the average density of warp-faced ribbed tabby was higher than that of other fiber types plain weave. Generally, in all fiber types, the density of warp was higher than that of weft.