• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.11 no.3 s.25
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• pp.79-88
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• 1987

In order to investigate the hand values and mechanical properties such as tensile, shearing, bending, compression, surface and thickness & weight of the women's summer fabrics were measured by KES-F system. Sorts of 78 commercial fabrics of women's summer cloth were classfied into 43 silk and 35 polyester fabrics according to materials. The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate the hand values and the mechanical properties and concerning to formation of weared clothes and transformation behavior were investigated. The main results are summarized as follows; 1. Polyester fabrics show higher tensile deformation than those of silk fabric. And also polyster fabric has a easy to shape-less and makes a silhouette which goes along with the body. 2. Silk fabrics is superior to polyester fabrics in formation and shear elasticity building box-shaped silhouette. 3. Polyester fabrics show sufficient ability to recover from tending deformation and drapability On the other hand, the compressibility and bending rigidity of silk fabrics were superior to polyester fabrics. 4. Regardless of materials, the bending properties is closely assocsiated with stiffness, anti-drape stiffness and flexibility with soft feeling. Fullness & softness and crispness is primarily influenced by surface properties. There is substantive relationship between scrooping and sheaing properties.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.465-469
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• 2003

The present study revealed; that (1) The students majoring in a piano course were the preference type of the performance dress - best line was designed of upper form chest. It was 1.5cm shorter than armhole line, the princess line was preferred Top one piece without sleeves which was designed with slim by bottom line through west dart form best line. The expression method was showing embroidery and bidding, colors were in order to white, ivory, black and blue style. The material was in order to silk with glorious shinning, silk satin and race style. (2) The students majoring in a vocal music were the preference type of the performance dress - the princess line was designed shorter, the west line of back and forth was preferred the one piece of bulk style divided with three partitions. Neck line was 5cm shorter than the middle of back, 9cm shorter than the side neck position, 9cm shorter than the middle of forth, sweet heart neck line with circular sleeve designed 7cm shorter than the side neck position. Colors were in order to ivory, red and yellow style. The material was in order to silk with glorious shinning silk satin and race style.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.62-71
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• 1994

The weighting increase varies with the condition of tannin-weight process and effects dyeability and physical properties of silk. The purpose of this study is to investigate the optimum condition of tannin-weighting process of silk and the effect of tannin-weighting process on dyeability and properties of silk. The methods of this study are first to examine the change according to the variables such as, weight increase of silk, temperature(30, 50, 70, 80, 9$0^{\circ}C$), time(30, 60, 120, 180, 240, 300min), tannin concentration(3, 5, 10, 20, 30g/l) in order to present the optimum condition, sencond to examine the change of the properties such as surface morphology, strength, elongation, mechanical values, dyeing condition, Basic and Acid dye absorption on silk which are tannin-weight processed in the optimum condition.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.3 s.88
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• pp.16-22
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• 2006

Process contract has received considerable attention in silk degumming processes because of its critical role in quality assurance. In degumming, process exhibits shrinkage of high twisted yarn and lot-varying behavior, thus increasing the difficulties of reduction by conventional means. This necessitates the application of a package that adapts to changing degumming process, and a new approach involving package degumming is proposed. The gains of this process are prevent of shrinkage by package winding, which is simplified by reduced soft-winding or re-twisting process. The approach is expected to achieve high quality results in conventional process due to its feature of demage by tension and rubbing. Therefore package degumming has many merits such as reduce of pilling and shrinkage, production expenses saving by process contract are expected of the simplified degumming process.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.43-50
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• 1999

Lichen had been used as dyestuffs before the discovery of synthetic dyes in Europe and by American Indians. To investigate the dyeability of Korean native lichens, 10 kinds of lichen were collected and colorants were extracted from them by boiling in water and fermenting in ammonia water. Silk fabrics were dyed with lichen extract, then the colour differences of dyed silk fabrics were measured before and after color fastness test. The most part of the lichen extracts(Fc, Hh, Me, Pl, Xm, Pr, Cj, Ld, Ry) dyed silk yellowish or reddish brown. The range of colors were 2.4Y 6.5∼10YR 6/7. Pa extract dyed silk purple(1.25RP 5/6). Color differences of laundered specimen with the silk before laundering were very small, but color of the dyed silks after exposing to light showed big differences with the specimen before exposing to light. The colors of the silks dyed with lichens changed from yellowish or reddish brown to greenish brown by laundering and by exposing to light. But the specimen dyed Pa extract changed from purple to blueish purple by laundering and reddish purple by exposing to light.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.40-46
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• 1994

In order to study the properties of cochineal color, variation of uv, visible spectra by pH, dyeing properties on the silk in several dyeing conditions and thermodynamic parameter were investigated. Cochineal colors had an unusual to pH, especially had instability in alkali condition. An increase in the dyeing temperature and in time resulted in an increase in the dye content of silk fibers. Concentration of cochineal color in the silk fiber was related to pH and the maximum exhaustion of cochineal colors showed at about pH 3. The value of apparent diffusion coefficients and standard affinities of dyeing increased with the increase of dyeing temperature. The standard heats of dyeing(ΔH°), variation of entropy(ΔS°) and activation energy(E/sub act/) were caculated to be -1.72kcal/mo1, -3.77cal/mo1ㆍdeg and 1.26kcal/mo1, respectively. Silk fabrics were dyed bright red by tin chloride, reddish purple by copper sulfate, and bluish gray by iron sulfate, respectively. Lightfastness of silk fabrics mordanted by metal ion was weak.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.129-137
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• 2000

Silk fabrics were dyed by Cochineal extracts after mordanted with various mordants and their properties of dyeing, fastness and change of surface color were investigated. Silk fabrics were mordanted with aluminum potassium sulfate, copper acetate, tin chloride, iron sulfate or chromium potassium sulfate at $60^\circ{C}$ for 30 minutes and subsequently dyed at $60^\circ{C}$ for 60 minutes unless mentioned otherwise. The dye-uptake of silk fabrics increased with the concentration of Cochineal extracts and mordants used. Maximum dye-uptake was obtained at pH 3.5-4, regardless of the type of mordants used. Surface color of silk fabrics changed from red purple to purple when mordanted with Al or Cu mordant, from purple to purple blue with Fe mordant and showed red purple with Sn or Cr mordant, respectively. It also changed according to pH of dyeing bath. Dyed silk fabrics showed poor light fastness but good dry-cleaning, perspiration and rubbing fastness.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.58-63
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• 2001

Silk fibroin (SF) was dissolved in calcium chloride/ethanol/water mixture(1/2/8 in mole ratio) at $70^{\circ}C$ for 4h. The dissolved silk fibroin was regenerated by casting the dialyzed solution into films. The films were treated with 50% aqueous solution of methanol for different times, and their antithrombogenicity was evaluated by in vivo tests. In vivo blood tests were made by a method of peripheral vein indwelling suture. It was found that the silk fibroin had a good antithrombogenicity and an absorbability even though the polymer showed foreign body reaction. Finally, the blood compatibilty of silk fibroin films which were subjected to structural change by the methoanl treatment, was examined in connection with their interfacial surface energy, and a correlation between these properties was found to be present.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.12-16
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• 2000

Silk and cotton fabrics were dyed with Parmelia tinctorium that is a kind of lichen. Dyeing solution was prepared by fermentation in aqueous ammonia solution. The effects of pH and temperature in dyebath on dyeability were investigated. The maximum K/S value of each dyed fabrics was showed in 480nm. Silk fabrics showed better dyeability than cotton. Silk fabrics dyed well in acidic or neutral dyebath at $80^\circ{C}$ and cotton fabrics in neutral dyebath at $50^\circ{C}$. Both of silk and cotton fabrics showed poor dyeability in basic dyebath because of colouring anionic groups in lichen. The Munsell values of dyed silk fabrics were appeared in R(red) range, and them of cotton fabrics in YR(yellow-red) range. Light fastnesses of dyed fabrics were as poor as 2 or 2-3 grades. Also, Laundering fastnesses of dyed silk fabrics were as poor as 2 grade and those of cotton fabrics were 3 or 3-4 grades. But dry-cleaning fastnesses of all dyed fabrics were good.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.14-21
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• 2009

In this article, silk fabric was treated with silver nitrate ($AgNO_3$) as oxidizing agent, with conditions such as concentration, and treating time, and subsequently treated with reducing agents such as sodium boron hydride ($NaBH_4$) and sodium sulfide ($Na_2S$) to obtain cathodic coloration. After coloration of silk fabric, dyeing properties (K/S value), colorfastnesses such as wash, rubbing and light, and antibacterial activity property were examined. $AgNO_3$ treating time and reducing time did not influence K/S value, whereas the pH value at alkaline region showed a high K/S value of silk fabric. The cathodic colorations of silk fabric with both of reducing agents at $30^{\circ}C$ have excellent color fastnesses. Also the high antibacterial activities were obtained by the treatment with silver nitrate even at 1% of lower concentration.