• Acta Via Serica
• /
• v.8 no.2
• /
• pp.155-174
• /
• 2023

Trade along the Silk Routes reached its zenith during the Pax Mongolica, a period of relative stability in Eurasia that was created by the Mongol empire in the 13th and 14th centuries. It is generally believed that the Silk Routes declined after the disintegration of the Mongol empire in the second half of the 14th century and that they fell into disuse after the 1453 Ottoman conquest of Constantinople as the Europeans sought alternative maritime routes to Asia. This paper examines the aftermath of the Mongol-era overland and maritime Silk Routes from a non-Eurocentric perspective. Seen from the standpoint of various successors to the Mongol empire, such as the Timurid empire, the Mughal empire, the Uzbek khanate, the Ottoman empire, Manchu Qing, and Russia, the overland and maritime Silk Routes did not really collapse or sharply decline during the post-Mongol period. These Mongol successor states maintained close and thriving overland trade relations with each other or some important maritime trade relations with Southeast Asia. It may be argued that the Silk Routes in the post-Mongol world functioned rather independently of European seaborne commerce.

• Fire Science and Engineering
• /
• v.21 no.1 s.65
• /
• pp.90-97
• /
• 2007

Combustion characteristics and toxicity of combustion gas of wallpaper samples were analyzed to evaluate the fire risk of wallpaper furnished in living space. In this study ash residue ratio was measured with high temperature electric furnace, and thermal analysis was carried out with TGA. Combustion time and smoke concentration were measured with cone heater and combustion gas analyzer. Smoke density of samples was measured using smoke chamber of ASTM E 662. The experimental results were showed as followings. Pyrolysis of silk wallpaper started at lower temperature compared to the other samples. It means that the silk wallpaper can be ignited at low heat flux and will have more fire risk than the others. Ignition time by radiation heat flux of silk wallpaper is shorter compared to the other samples, so evacuation time must be reduced. In the case of vinyl coated silk wall paper, carbon mono oxide concentration is the highest and the toxicity and damage effect to consciousness was stronger compared to the other samples. Smoke density of silk wall paper and fire retardant mixed coated silk wall paper were very high due to vinyl coating.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.22 no.1
• /
• pp.100-113
• /
• 2018

From the late 17th to the early 18th century, Europeans were strongly intrigued by products from the East. Therefore, several countries like England, France, and Netherlands formed the 'East India Company' to pursue trade. First, European markets rapidly responded to this desire for exoticism by importing goods; then, they produced imitation Oriental goods. Finally, they made stylistically advanced exotic merchandise from the perspectives of European. In terms of the textile industry, this trend was expressed in the pattern design of silk, or the so called 'bizarre silk.' In this paper, bizarre silk patterns were scrutinized based on a digital archive of museums, catalogues of museums, portal sites, and the literature. The bizarre silk patterns were analyzed then classified into six categories: pseudo-Oriental plant pattern, pattern mingled with architectural motifs, pattern of juxtaposed with Oriental goods, abstract pattern, exuberant pattern with metal threads, and semi-naturalistic pattern. These patterns were characterized according to the following features: strangely large exotic floral patterns were undulating and asymmetrical; exotic foliage and flowers were sometimes mixed with architectural motifs or Oriental goods to easily show the Oriental influence; motifs of bizarre silk patterns were abstractly stylized; bizarre silk patterns became luxurious once more like the Baroque period; finally, floral patterns became more natural, and still exotic motifs remained in the background to maintain the bizarre silk features. These bizarre silk patterns evolved from the viewpoints of Europeans through acceptance stage, compound stage, and confluent stage.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
• /
• v.41 no.3
• /
• pp.49-59
• /
• 2009

The bast fibers of paper mulberry were dyed by using sappan wood, gardenia, and gallnut extracted under various extraction conditions. The surface absorption rates, color, and sunlight fastness of the dyed fibers were compared to those of the dyed cotton and silk. The K/S values of silk showed the highest values, followed by gallnut, gardenia, and sappan wood. The optimum extraction conditions of the dye materials were 20 g/L (input amount of dye materials per liter), $90^{\circ}C$ (extraction temperature), and 30 minutes (extraction time). The values of saturation were observed to increase with the increase of the amount of dye materials, extraction time, and extration temperature. However, no effect were found on the values of hue and lightness. In all samples, the developed colors dyed by sappan wood and gardenia were the series of YR, and Y, respectively. The colors of dyed cotton and bast fibers of paper mulberry by gallnut were the series of Y and the dyed silk showed the series of YR. The values of saturation of the bast fibers of paper mulberry by sappan wood and gardenia showed the highest values of saturation, followed by cotton, and silk. In the case of gallnut, cotton showed the highest values of saturation, followed by the bast fibers of paper mulberry, and silk. The sunlight fastness were not improved in all dyeing conditions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.36 no.1
• /
• pp.99-111
• /
• 2012

This paper investigates the formative features and the historical meaning of the Korean dress collection held in the Horniman Museum in London. The Museum holds eighteen items of Korean dresses donated by Mrs. C. de J. Luxmore in 1948 and by Mrs. Bowra in 1953. Male dresses consist of white silk outer robe (durumagi), a pale violet silk waistcoat (jokki), a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), pale yellow silk trousers (baji), a pair of ankle bands (daenim), a cotton waistband (dae), a silk purse (jumeoni), a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja), a pair of rattan wristlets (deungtosi), a top hat (gat) and a skullcap (tanggeon). Female dresses comprise a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), an ivory silk skirt (chima), a light blue silk petticoat (sokchima), two kinds of white cotton trousers (sokbaji and soksokgot), a pair of silk wristlets (tosi) and a pair of padded socks (beoseon). A Korean dress collection of the Horniman Museum shows a set of ordinary dress items worn by a married couple in the 1930s and the 1940s. Of these items, a silk petticoat (sokchima) and a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja) can be highly evaluated as object resources in the history of Korean dress. The petticoat is a rare and valuable example that represents an early type of modern petticoat that has replaced a traditional petticoat (dansokgot). The rattan under-vest has square neckline and two tiny sleeves similar to a Western cap sleeve. This kind of under-vest is a transitional form shown between under-vest similar to the Korean waistcoat (baeja) and one similar to the Western waistcoat (jokki).

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
• /
• v.4
• /
• pp.63-68
• /
• 1965

This treatise was carried out to study the hereditary phenomenon of silk lousiness and the interaction of genes related with silk lousiness. It was also studied how to improve the silk lousiness of general raw silk by refining process because the selective process was found as unsatisfactory method. The conclusions reached were as follows. A. Conclusions related with genetic problem. 1. The decreased effects of the lousiness were 11 % in the F$_1$ hybrids. 2. Lousiness was considered to inherit as the incomplete dominance. 3. The effects of the lousiness gene were additive, and the lousiness of raw silk might be influenced by more than two genes. 4. The quantitative characters of cocoons were not genetically correlated with the occurrence of lousiness. 5. Lousiness could not be said to occur more in the heavy-cocoon strains. 6. The microscopic lousiness test of this paper showed the same result of the international exforiation test. B. Conclusions related with lousiness improvement. 1. Raw silk was able to be refined by the employment of 0.2% cationic softener solution for 30 minutes at 95$^{\circ}C$, supressing the occurrence of lousiness. 2. Anionic chemical softener was not available for silk refining process. 3. The above cationic softener refining prosess did not cause any physical defect for the silk fiber. 4. Soap refining process caused silk lousiness easily.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.20 no.6
• /
• pp.937-941
• /
• 2012

Based on the literature on customer's repeat purchase intention, customer's repeat purchase intention was explored, customer's repeat purchase intention has been a crucial factor influencing consumer behaviors, In this research, the development of models on repeat purchase intention repurchase was indicated. Based on the electronic commerce platform, we focus on the customer's repeat purchase intention on silk products, This paper mainly explores the e-commerce purchase frequency (EPF), customer perceived value (CPV), perceived risk of e-commerce (EPR), and customer satisfaction (CS). The influence of the four factors on repeat purchase intention (RPI) is investigated. In the results, we found that CPV and CS have positive correlations with repeat purchase intention, The EPR has a negative correlation with RPI and has no significant influence on RPI. The result can provide meaningful suggestions for silk product retailers.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
• /
• v.35 no.1
• /
• pp.60-68
• /
• 1993

It has been known that the silk degumming treated by hot alkali solution is easy to handle but is liable to yield poor-quality silk due to the degree of degumming loss, incomplete-degumming or over-degumming. Therefore, many studies have been carried out on the silk degumming by enzyme in order to improve the quality of silk. However, no attention has been paid to the physicochemical analysis of enzymatic degummed silk. In this paper, two different degumming methods, soap and enzymatic, are compared in aqueous solution state of silk fibroin. The results can be summarized as follows: There was no significant difference between two solutions on the bases of polarizing microscopy, TEM observation and SDS-PAGE. Spherulite of silk fibroin was not observed in polarizing microscopy, however the leaf-shape fibril structure was developed upon solidification. The size of spherulites of silk fibroin in TEM observation were 30~120nm with a wide range of size distribution. The intrinsic viscosity of enzymatic degummed fibroin solution was lower than that of soap degummed solution. This can be explained that the silk fibroin was more degraded by enzymatic degumming method compared with the soap degumming method. SDS-polyacrylamide gel electrophoresis showed that the fibroin molecule was composed of large component of molecule weight above 50 kd and small component of molecule weight about 20 kd. There was no difference in crystallinity between two degumming methods on the bases of results of DSC thermograms and IR spectra.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.42 no.6
• /
• pp.43-53
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the dyeability, antibacterial activity, and deodorization of cotton and silk fabrics dyed with extracted solution from Chrysanthemum boreale. The results are as follows： 1. The optimum conditions of dyeing temperature and time for the cotton fabrics were 90$^{\circ}C$ and 60minutes, while those of the silk fabrics were 60$^{\circ}C$ and 30 minutes respectively. 2. The K/S values of cotton fabrics were slightly higher than those of silk fabrics. The K/S values of both fabrics were slightly increased by mordanting with Cr but were decreased by mordanting with Cu and Fe 3. The colors of the cotton and silk fabrics changed from GY to Y. In both cases, the values of the fabric colors were lowered, and the values of the colors continued to be lowered with Cu and Fe. The chroma and color difference of both fabrics were high and were further increased by mordanting with Cu. 4. The fastness to dry-cleaning and rubbing of the cotton and silk fabrics was very good. The fastness to washing of both fabrics was good except when mordanted with Fe. The fastness to perspiration of both fabrics was fairly good, but the fastness to acid perspiration was poorer than that to the alkaline perspiration. The fastness to light of both fabrics was very poor. 5. The cotton and silk fabrics showed excellent antibacterial activity. Both fabrics mordanted with Cu showed perfect antibacterial activity. 6. The deodorization of the silk fabrics was very good, and that of the silk fabrics mordanted with Cu and Al was excellent, while the deodorization of the cotton fabrics was fairly good.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
• /
• v.40 no.1
• /
• pp.33-37
• /
• 1998

Two types of sperm, apyrene and eupyrene, are identified in A. mylitta. The sperm in the adult moth are motionless in seminal vesicles. At the time of ejaculation they received a secretion from male ejaculatory duct that renders them motile. The dissociation of eupyrene bundles, eupyrene sperm motility and the sequence of events of sperm migration in both sexes are described in the present paper.