• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.11
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• pp.131-140
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeability, antibacterial activity and deodorization on cotton and silk fabrics dyed with extracted solution from gardenia. The results are as follows: 1. The K/S value of silk fabrics was higher than that of cotton fabrics, and the K/S value was slightly increased by mordanting with $SnCl_2.2H_2O$ and $K_2Cr_2O_{7}$ on cotton and silk fabrics. 2. Cotton fabrics showed yellow from GY to Y and silk fabrics showed yellow or reddish yellow from GY to Y-YR. 3. The fastness to washing of cotton fabrics was very poor and that of silk fabrics was middle or lower, excluding good fastness to wool contamination of both fabrics. The fastness to dry cleaning and rubbing of both fabrics was very good. The fastness to perspiration of cotton fabrics was middle or higher, but that of silk fabrics was much better than that of cotton fabrics. The fastness to the light of both fabrics showed very poor with 1 grade. Dyeing fastness was slightly improved by mordanting on both fabrics. 4. Silk and cotton fabrics did not show antibacterial activity, but the activity of silk fabrics was higher than that of cotton fabrics. The antibacterial activity was increased by mordanting. 5. The deodorization of dyed cotton and silk fabrics was excellent, and that of silk fabrics showed better than that of cotton fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.517-523
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• 2003

We studied the physical properties of silk fabrics after degumming, the dyeability and the color fastness of silk fabrics after degumming and sericin fixing. As the sericin was removed from silk fabrics, the rate of weight loss increased and both the abrasion resistance and the drape coefficient decreased. This means that the amount of the sericin remained in silk fabrics significantly affects the physical properties of silk fabrics. On the surface and the cross-section of silk fabrics, the silk fibers enclosed by the sericin seemed to be in a lump shape. Each fibroin strand, however, got scattered, as the process of degumming went through. The dyeability of silk fabrics degummed decreased at between 20$^{\circ}C$∼80$^{\circ}C$ the dyeing temperature, on the other hand, it significantly increased over 80$^{\circ}C$. The dyeability of the sericin-fixed silk fabrics was lower than that of the non-serin-fixed silk fabrics, to a little extent. The colorfastness of crocking in the dyed-silk fabrics was a little low and that of the sweat was much lower in a basic sweat. Especially, the colorfastness of the partially degummed silk fabrics was low, because the sericin was not stable in the condition of sweat. Therefore, the process of sericin fixing is essentially required, for the partially degummed silk fabrics and the process of degumming itself.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.6 s.91
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• pp.37-42
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• 2006

Researches to preserve and restore the remaining fabrics as costume heritages have been carried out. In this study, in order to artificially restore an excavated silk fabrics, degummed silk fabrics and safflower dyed silk fabrics were prepared for an experiment. These fabrics were photo-degraded by the Xenon arc beam to have various strength retention(100%, 80%, 60%, 40%, 20%). The fine structure and physical properties of Xenon arc treated fabrics were investigated with various techniques such as tensile test, weight loss, wide-angle X-ray diffraction, yellowness, color, SEM etc. Tensile strength and the crystal diffraction intensity of silk fabrics decreased as Xenon arc hem treatment time increased. Weight loss increased slightly. Strength retention was decreased as the Xenon arc beam treatment time goes by. (Yellowness of the undyed silk fabrics and $L^*$ of the dyed silk fabrics increased. Whiteness of the undyed silk fabrics and $b^* of the dyed silk fabrics decreased.) SEM results of the silk fabrics treated Xenon arc beam show that surface was a little damaged.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.11-19
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• 1988

Bending properties of 168 commercial silk fabrics and polyester fabrics for korean women's clothes were tested by KES-F system. Samples were classified into for summer, fall & winter fabrics. In this study, bending regidity(B) and bending hysteresis(2HB) were measured, then 2HB/W, {{{{ SQRT { 2HB/W} }}}}, 2HB/B which are concerning to formation of weared clothes and transformation behavior were investigated. fabrics for korean women's silk clothes for fall & winter were compared with fabrics for japanese kimono clothes on the bending properties. The results were as follows : 1. The bending regidity of silk fabrics were higher than polyester fabrics and bending hysteresis of fall & winter fabrics were higher than summer fabrics. 2. The 2HB/W and {{{{ SQRT { 2HB/W} }}}} of polyester fabrics were lower than silk fabrics. 3. the silk fabrics for summer clothes were the least in 2HB/B. 4. Silk fabrics for korean women's clothes were almost the same in bending rigidity, bending hysteresis and thickness of fabrics for japanese kimono clothes, but weight of the silk fabrics were lower to fabrics for jpanese kimono clothes.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.2 s.87
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• pp.31-38
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• 2006

Silk fabrics are very popular and widely used because of their elegant appearance. However, silk fabrics generally have easy wrinkle, and do not stretch and deform permanently after machine washing. Then the stretched properties of silk fabrics are important for the application of industrial textile materials such as formal and sports wear. Thus, this research surveys the covering, weaving and degumming conditions for stretched silk fabrics. As a result, yarn breaking stress was reduced with increasing spindle speed, and the yarn twists were optimized under the covering condition of polyurethane/silk with PVA pretreatment. In addition, the shrinkage of the silk fabrics treated with star degumming process was reduced by continuous NaOH degumming process. The fabrics showed the fabric physical properties with optimum stretched properties and evenness surfaces.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.12-16
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• 2000

Silk and cotton fabrics were dyed with Parmelia tinctorium that is a kind of lichen. Dyeing solution was prepared by fermentation in aqueous ammonia solution. The effects of pH and temperature in dyebath on dyeability were investigated. The maximum K/S value of each dyed fabrics was showed in 480nm. Silk fabrics showed better dyeability than cotton. Silk fabrics dyed well in acidic or neutral dyebath at $80^\circ{C}$ and cotton fabrics in neutral dyebath at $50^\circ{C}$. Both of silk and cotton fabrics showed poor dyeability in basic dyebath because of colouring anionic groups in lichen. The Munsell values of dyed silk fabrics were appeared in R(red) range, and them of cotton fabrics in YR(yellow-red) range. Light fastnesses of dyed fabrics were as poor as 2 or 2-3 grades. Also, Laundering fastnesses of dyed silk fabrics were as poor as 2 grade and those of cotton fabrics were 3 or 3-4 grades. But dry-cleaning fastnesses of all dyed fabrics were good.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.48-52
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• 2001

The study was conducted to find out suitable flame proofing on silk fabrics and to examine closely the flame retardancy effect and the physical properties changes of the silk, which was dyed by natural dyes and synthetic dyes, treated with agent (Diphenylbutylamidophosphate (DPBAP)). The results of the study were as follows: 1) Silk could be treated with DPBAP easily soluble in water by means of simple Pad-Dry-Cure. 2) The add-on of silk fabrics dyed by natural dyes was more than that of silk fabrics dyed by synthetic dyes. 3) The silk fabrics dyed by india ink among natural dyes has more flame retardancy effect in before treating with flame proofing agent than in after treating with it. 4) The physical properties (stiffness and tensile strength) of the silk fabrics treated with flame retardancy agent were little changed.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.42 no.6
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• pp.43-53
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• 2004

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the dyeability, antibacterial activity, and deodorization of cotton and silk fabrics dyed with extracted solution from Chrysanthemum boreale. The results are as follows： 1. The optimum conditions of dyeing temperature and time for the cotton fabrics were 90$^{\circ}C$ and 60minutes, while those of the silk fabrics were 60$^{\circ}C$ and 30 minutes respectively. 2. The K/S values of cotton fabrics were slightly higher than those of silk fabrics. The K/S values of both fabrics were slightly increased by mordanting with Cr but were decreased by mordanting with Cu and Fe 3. The colors of the cotton and silk fabrics changed from GY to Y. In both cases, the values of the fabric colors were lowered, and the values of the colors continued to be lowered with Cu and Fe. The chroma and color difference of both fabrics were high and were further increased by mordanting with Cu. 4. The fastness to dry-cleaning and rubbing of the cotton and silk fabrics was very good. The fastness to washing of both fabrics was good except when mordanted with Fe. The fastness to perspiration of both fabrics was fairly good, but the fastness to acid perspiration was poorer than that to the alkaline perspiration. The fastness to light of both fabrics was very poor. 5. The cotton and silk fabrics showed excellent antibacterial activity. Both fabrics mordanted with Cu showed perfect antibacterial activity. 6. The deodorization of the silk fabrics was very good, and that of the silk fabrics mordanted with Cu and Al was excellent, while the deodorization of the cotton fabrics was fairly good.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.23-32
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to research fabrics, colors, and arrangement of color in Jogak-bo which were developed during the late Chosun dynasty. It is expected that from the analysis of the number, distribution and arrangement of colors of Jogak-bo in the late Chosun we can suggest various color arrangements thoset can be applied to modern fashion are summarized as follows. First, as for the number of colors of Jogak-bo according to material, silk fabrics Jogak-bo used a variety of colors whereas hemp fabrics Jogak-bo mostly used one color showing contrast between silk fabrics Jogak-bo and hemp fabrics ones. Second, as for the distribution of colors of silk Jogak-bo and hemp fabrics ones, warm colors were used most frequently. On the other hand, fewer achromatic colors were used to silk fabrics Jogak-bo, and they were more applied to hemp fabrics Jogak-bo. As for the use of cold colors, fewer cold colors were applied to hemp fabrics Jogak-bo compared to silk fabrics Jogak-bo. Third, as for the arrangement of colors, various colors were used in silk fabrics Jogak-bo, but a single color or not more than 1 color was applied to hemp fabrics Jogak-bo. It well demonstrates brilliance and glamour of silk Jogak-bo and stability and unity of hemp fabrics Jogak-bo. As for the arrangement of colors of Jogak-bo, most of Jogak-bo showed contrasting colors and shades, and similar colors and shades were hardly found in silk fabrics Jogak-bo whereas they were frequently found in hemp fabrics Jogak-bo.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.7-7
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• 2001

This paper investigated the dyeability and surface color of silk and cotton fabrics dyed with chustnut bur extract. Some experiments were performed under the various dyeing conditions such as dyeing temperature, dyeing time, repetition of dyeing, dyeing pH, mordanting condition, washing fastness and light fastness with silk and cotton fabrics. The results obtained were as follows 1. △E value was increased when dyeing temperature and time was higher, value of munsell was shifted from Yellow to Yellow-Red at hither dyeing temperature and time in silk and cotton fabrics. 2. Optimal dyeing pH was increased with acidity of dyeing solution in silk and cotton fabrics, and repetition of dyeing did not change the dye-uptake. 3. When mordanting time and temperature was higher, △E value was larger in silk and cotton fabrics. Silk and cotton fabrics with Fe-premordanting treatment had best dyeability, but treatment with Sn-mordanting was worst. 4. Washing fastness and light fastness was excellent in various dyeing condition at silk fabric but cotton was without practical use.