• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권3호
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• pp.388-405
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• 2021

This study classifies the compositional methods of power shoulder jackets from 1980 to the present. It analyzes the relevance of jacket details according to how the power shoulder changes and its compositional methods by era. The research subdivides shoulder compositional techniques into seven, based on shoulder variation, sleeve variation, and the body and sleeve combination. The researcher investigates the frequency and trends of composing shoulders and analyzes details pertaining to the silhouette, jacket length, collar shape, and front closure. The most common method of shoulder composition is an angular shoulder variation. The others are a rounded shoulder variation, puffed sleeve, sleeve variation using pattern incision, raglan and kimono sleeves, and a shoulder variation that expanded the angle and width. The frequency differs slightly for each era. The relationship between shoulder compositional methods and details of power shoulder jackets is statistically significant, showing period-related differences. The homogeneity analysis results reveal that the shoulder composition of power shoulder jackets, the times, and details fall into distinct groups. This analysis shows that the silhouette, length, collar, and front closure of the power shoulder jacket differ depending on the power shoulder's compositional methods. Moreover, the shape of the power shoulder jacket is distinctly different. One can use this data to help develop the power shoulder jacket design by reflecting the details of shoulder compositional methods and changing trends over time.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제35권4호
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• pp.79-94
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• 1997

This study was performed to develop a basic stacks pattern for middle-aged women reflecting the characteristics of their lower body types. Anthropometric measurements using sliding guage method were carried out for 4 women 40's For the analysis of the lower body types horizontal and vertical section maps obtained by sliding gauge method and 2 indices were produced. Based on the slacks construction components produced by the drafts of their lower body surface experimental slacks pattern was designed. Multiple comparison test was used to compare 3 existing slacks patterns with the experimental pattern. 1. The results of the body section map analysis were as follows: 1) In the frontal view silhouette of vertical section maps there were less individual differences in items with skeleton landmarks than those without them. 2) In the shape of horizontal section maps waist section represented more round shape than the others and thigh maximum width section had the flattest shape. Flat ratios(depth/width) of subjects were much higer than those of young women which clarified the change of depth was bigger than that of width with aging process. 2. The slacks construction components for pattern drafting were as follows: 1)Ease amount of waist was 0.5cm and front and back waist girth difference was 1.2cm Ease amount of hip was 1,8cm and front and back hip girth difference was 0.7 cm 2) The amount of dart intake incresed in the order of side(4cm) back(3,6cm) from (2.8cm) The length of dart leg incresed in the order of front side back.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권5호
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• pp.821-833
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to provide basic information about body proportion characteristics, and the level of body cathexis and fit satisfaction related to those characteristics. It is hoped that this will help to improve ready-to-wear satisfaction in middle-aged women. In order to achieve this purpose, the body proportion characteristics of middle-aged women were measured and were compared with that of standard and ideal body types. Then, the body cathexis and fit satisfaction according to these characteristics was analyzed. Finally, the following results were obtained. First, the average height of middle-aged women was 6.87 head, waist length was 58.9% of height, and knee length was 25.6% of height. In frontal appearance, the hip width, shoulder width, and chest width were wider than waist width(24%, 20%, and 11% respectively). Chest and hip depths was thicker than waist depth(19% and 17% respectively). Second, in lengths proportion, their lower body was shorter than the standard body shape for women in their 20s'. Also the difference between the width of frontal appearance and depth proportion of side appearance was small, suggesting a more slender silhouette among the middle aged women. Finally, middle-aged women who were not wide or big in the chest had higher satisfaction with their bodies. As shoulder width and chest depth became small, the fit satisfaction of upper clothes increased. While longer lower body had higher fit satisfaction with pants crotch, shorter lower body had higher fit satisfaction with waist and abdominal parts.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.245-254
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to develop uniform pattern of obese junior-high school girls by using the virtual twin and 3D virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; first, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new uniform pattern considered obese junior-high school girls was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows; bust girth=B/2+2.5, armhole depth=B/4, front waist girth=W/4+1.8, back waist girth=W/4+1, front hip girth=H/4+1, back hip girth=H/4+1, chest width=chest width+1.5, back width=back width+1 and back neck width 8cm. Second, according to the results of the new uniform pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new uniform pattern is appropriate for the obese junior-high school girls. Also, new uniform pattern was evaluated to allow proper space length of bust, waist, abdomen and hip. Virtual models production through 3D body scan data, pattern draft and virtual garment digital program were applied to prototypic design method so as to enhance the fitness of ready-made garments. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns, and also for future 3D pattern production program development.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.963-970
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to develop torso pattern of underweight female in their 20s~30s by using Clo 3D virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; first, as a result of analyzing torso somatotype, underweight women showed lower average than average values of whole women in their twenties and thirties in the items such as length, width, circumference, thickness except for height. Second, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new torso pattern considered underweight female was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+3.5, armhole depth B/4+0.5, front waist girth W/4+0.5+0.7, back waist girth W/4+0.5-0.7, front hip girth H/4+1+0.5, back hip girth H/4+1-0.5, chest width B/6+3.1, back width B/6+4.5, neck width B/12+0.2 and neck depth B/12+1.7. Third, by reducing hollowed amount of front, back, and side line, and hollowed amount of back center line, the reduced quantity was included to darts amount. Number of dart was adjusted to two pieces so that darts amount was equally distributed to two darts. Forth, according to the results of the new torso pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new torso pattern was appropriate for the underweight women. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns, and also for future 3D pattern production program development.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.1191-1204
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• 2014

Even though a Han-bok, or traditional Korean costume, should be inherited since it is invaluable part of our culture, research on Han-bok is scarce. Since the development of a Jeogori pattern, the upper garment of Korean traditional clothes, is done mostly based on the chest size, the design does not completely consider on wearer's body shape. Moreover, unless made by an expert, trial and error is almost always necessary to improve the fit of the clothes. In this research, a Jeogori pattern was suggested that improves the fit based on the shape of the upper back(straight or bent) of a female in her late 20s who often wears a Han-bok and is comfortable when moving. Using a 3D virtual clothing system, the optimum pattern was selected based on the body shape. The final selection was made, and each subjects tried the garment on to evaluate the comfort when moving, along with its appearance, based on a seven point Likert scale. As a result, for a straight body shape, the optimum ease for the front bust width was 2.5cm, and that for the back bust width was 2.0cm. The optimum center back dart was 1.0cm. The optimum Geodae width was 7.6cm, and the optimum back Geodae point was 2.0cm. For the bent body shape, the optimum ease for the front and back bust was 2.0cm. The optimum Geodae width was 8.4cm, and the optimum back Geodae point was 1.5cm. Furthermore, if the Hwajang slope was set at half of the vertical distance between the laterals of the neck and shoulder, a fitted silhouette appeared, which is preferred nowadays. In the appearance evaluation, the final pattern designed in this research received higher scores than the original design(straight; p<.001, bent; p<.05). The results of the evaluation of the comfort when moving also showed higher scores for the final pattern that was designed.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권1호
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• pp.171-187
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• 2016

The study performed a comparison analysis of market brand patterns for slim-fit dress shirts and analyzed the body surface development figure of men in their 40s using 3D body scan data and developed slim-fit dress shirt patterns suitable for middle-aged men. The sizes of slim-fit dress shirt patterns showed a slight difference depending on brand. The overlap map of slim-fit dress shirt patterns for brands demonstrates how difference of one-dimensional sizes reflect on two-dimensional patterns. This map provides useful information for pattern design and allows and easy recognition of pattern size differences. A try-on system evaluation through 3D-Simulation allows a grasp of the fitness of neckline and size tolerance of under the arms in front, the silhouette of side lines, and overall fitness in front that also allows analysis of the front/back balance of a shirt in side, the size tolerance proportion in front/back, and the fitness of the arm-hole line. Thus, we obtained try-on results that were equivalent to wearing actual clothing. According to the drafting size suggested in the developed final pattern, the total width was 'C/2+5.5cm', and the front was set at 1cm bigger in the size difference of the front and back. The width of the front neck and the back neck was set identically at 'C/12', while the width of the front neck was set to 'C/12+1.5cm'. For the armhole depth, we added 'C/4+2cm', and '0.5cm and 1.5cm' for the width of the front and back to anthropometry. The results of the try-on evaluation through 3D-Simulation indicated that the fitness of the final slim-fit dress shirt pattern was superior to available slim-fit dress shirt patterns on the market and evaluated as superior to the types for middle-aged men.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권3호
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• pp.95-102
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• 1997

This study is aimed for men's jacket draft not only to other style but also helping for men's jacket fits for trend by presenting the course to get a style we want by adding to the partial drafty changes in existing pattern of men's formal jacket selected two kinds of men's jacket style fit for 1997 S/S trend. In this 1997 S/S trend, the trend I of the characteristic formal jacket is a style slim expressed over the basic formal wear, and trend II of the characteristic casual jacket appears to women's wear that roundly expressed by collar line of V-zone returened back by the shoulder line of jacket made of a big diagonal wrinkled line of X-style in front centered around a button of center front line. In this study, it called that the existing traditional formal jacket of men is a A style of jacket and jacket style I, II is a jacket B, C style. Jacket A, B, C style, a distingtion in draft that added to make form an oblique wrinkled line of the X-shaped-making artificially to the front button line sharply distinguished by eyes will be come out by control of front neck width over the back neck width. According to this, we shall be found that place of front neck point is a cardinal point in draft that will be added any changes in a style of jacket.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.91-103
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• 2014

Shirts which have been a inner-wear in men's suit in the past, are being changed into an item that 20's men utilize to their individuality. Dress shirts have gotten out of its shape, becoming tight and slim with activity and fashion trend. In this study, two patterns of fitted dress shirts in a clothing construction text book were compared with the pattern of an apparel company with regard to the size tolerance and appearance silhouette; this comparison was performed through a fitting test and an appearance evaluation. According to the study, size tolerance of chest girth and waist girth were about 6~8cm and 10~18cm, respectively. Neck girth of the collar was tight in both the fitting test and appearance evaluation. Thus, the measurement value of the neck base girth had to be used for the collar pattern making. Moreover, approximately 35cm is a moderate size for the width on the upper arm in sleeve. Therefor the factors such as size tolerance of waist girth, height of sleeve cap, slim sleeve width and measurement value of neck base girth are being considered for the pattern making of fitted dress shirts.

• 한국가정과교육학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.113-125
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• 2006

본 연구는 여중생의 신체부위 크기인식이 실제 착의 의복형태에 어떠한 영향을 미치는지 살펴보기 위하여 신체크기 인식과 신체만족도, 희망 착의의복형태, 실제착의 의복형태를 고찰하였으며, 수척/비만정도에 의해 집단을 분류하여 집단간착의 의복형태의 차이도 고찰하였다. 조사 대상자는 광주 소재의 중학교에 재학 중인 여중학생 219 명이었으며 설문지를 이용하여 결과를 얻었다. 결과분석은 Window SPSS 10.0 패키지를 이용하였다. 그 결과를 요약하면 다음과 같다. 1. 여중생들은 상반신보다 아랫배돌출, 엉덩이, 다리굵기, 체중 등의 하반신을, 그리고 몸통보다는 사지부를 굵게 인식하였으며 굵게 인식하는 신체부위에 대해서 만족하지 못하였다. 2. 여중생들은 착의하기를 희망하는 의복형태를 실제로 착의하였다. 실제로 착용하거나 착용을 희망하는 상의의 의복형태는 피부가 직접적으로 노출되지 않으면서 밀착여부에 관계없는 형태였으며, 하의의 의복형태는 밀착되거나 피부가 노출되지 않는 여유가 많은 긴 슬랙스형태였다. 3. 여중생들은 신체크기를 인식하여 의복형태를 결정하는 정도가 낮았다. 그러나 여중생들은 신체부위의 피부노출이나 밀착에 의한 실루엣 노출이 큰 의복형태를 둘레와 너비를 굵거나 크게 인식할수록 착용하지 알았으며 길이를 길게 인식할 수록 더 착용하였다. 4. 비만집단에 속하는 여중생들은 피부가 직접 노출되거나 밀착되어 실루엣이 노출되는 상의와 하의를 수척집단보다 덜 착용하였다. 그러나 여중생들은 수척/비만 분류와 관계없이 피부와 실루엣을 은폐하는 의복형태는 모두 착용하였다. 그리고 여중생들은 목, 어깨부위를 노출하는 의복을 착용하는 경우 자신이 인지하는 체형보다 객관적인 실체체형을 고려하였으며 반면, 팔의 피부노출과 다리의 밀착에 의한 실루엣 노출은 실제체형보다 자신이 인지하는 체형을 고려하였다.