• 복식
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• 제32권
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• pp.225-242
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• 1997

This study is historical research on the relationship between the Changes of the Form of costume and the recognition of the beauty of the body from prehistorical period to Ch'ing Dynasty in Chinese female costume. In figure painting a significant point was to describe the spirit of the figure so Chinese painters were less interested in ideal body pro-portion or body shape than Westerns. But idealized beauty of the female body existed and changed keeping abreast with the form of costume in each period. In the prehistorical period Wemen fasten waist belt so enabled to distinguish upper part of the body from lower one. "Locust-forehead moth-eyebrows(蝗首蛾毛)" recorded in "the Book of odes(詩經)" was the canon of beaty and Wemen tried to make their forehead broad and square from Zhou Dynasty to the Wei Jin periods. From the age of Civil War to han Dynasty Slender waist was loved so waist was tightly fastened and hemline became broader. in the course of that time Plump body in big cloth with broad sleeve emerged but that was less significant than Tang Dynasty. During Wei Jin and the Southern/Northern Dynasty undergo disruption and division they admired Taoist images. Loose fitting style with handkerchief hemline and broad sash belt was prevailed while miserable life was reflected gaunt face and lean body. Suk Dynasty also preferred a slim and long body silhouette. The style was presented extremely high waist line long and narrow sleeve slim and long skirt which expressed dynamic and straight image. The culture of Tang Dynasty was open and diverse and that character enabled blod decolletate revealing body line by tight fitting and special make-up-Social background of uion and stabilization made female body extremely plump full face. full breast and hips with most erotic image. The period of Kaiyuan Tianbao fashioned mannish disguise presented androgynous image. Five Dynasty and Song Dynasty restored standard body type so upper garments concealed neck and bust high waist line lowered which represented refined and simple outfit. But another eroticism emerged as foot-binding in Song Dynasty. For the sake of covering up deformed top of the feet and ankle gaiters and arrow shaped shoes were devised. During Ming Ch'ing Dynasties body shape became more slim weak and young causing to escort instinct that reflects 'Lust' or 'Mundanity'.

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제20권9호
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• pp.412-419
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• 2019

예술에서 네거티브 공간은 관심 있는 피사체 주위 공간과 여러 피사체 사이의 공간으로 정의된다. 네거티브 공간은 때로는 이미지의 "실질적" 주제로서 예술적 효과에 사용되기 때문에 예술적 구성요소 중 하나이다. 회화에서는 표현하고자 하는 사물의 배경을 음각으로 터치하는 화법으로 필요한 부분은 남기고 불필요한 부분을 터치하여 독특한 질감과 실루엣의 느낌을 주는 회화기법을 말한다. 예술에서 그것의 개념처럼 설계에서 네거티브 공간은 기술적으로 실행하기 어려운 설계범위를 직관적으로 파악하는데 유용할 수 있다. 두 영역 간의 유사성은 설계영역탐색에 네거티브 개념의 도입을 이끌었다. 통계분석과 시각화분석을 도구로 하는 설계영역탐색은 더 효율적인 의사결정을 지원하고 초기단계 시스템 설계의 방향에 대한 의미 있는 통찰력을 제공할 수 있다. 복잡하고 많은 양의 데이터를 요약한 시각화된 정보는 인간의 인지시스템과 동적인 상호작용을 보장하기 때문이다. 기술적으로 실행할 수 없거나 위험성이 높은 설계공간을 피할 수 있을 뿐만 아니라 실행 가능한 설계공간을 정의하는 데 유용하다. 논문에서 적용 예를 통해 네거티브 설계 개념 기반 설계영역탐색법의 활용 가능성을 살펴본다.

• 복식
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• 제55권2호
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• pp.18-32
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to find out the origin of perpetuity in the fashion design of Soma Delaunay, who was recognized as a unique designer in the 20th century. Her characteristics of fashion design appeared as dynamism in the incline of op-art using geometric pattern designed on the basis of abstract painting, color contrast between strong original colors, and repeated geometric patterns. The modern image can be explained as modernity in modern fashion and is continued in these days. The origins of modernity analyzed as follows. First, Soma Delaunay developed textile design, considering the use of clothing on the basis of scientific idea. Furthermore, she evolved traditional textile design and making process into a practical and rational way through developing new needlework technique. Second, she tried a new style through a straight silhouette in contrast to Art Nouveau style and the test and mixture of different genres. Third, she expressed the simultaneity of Orphism through the parallel structure of various colors. In particular, she used the contrast of strong and clear original colors to express a rhythm of dynamism and give visual interest through color. Finally, Soma Delaunay attempted to approach the public using clothing, furniture, and curtains with the focus on textiles. It may represent her intention to remove a gap between art and life by understanding the public and their life. As examined above, it can be sad that Soma Delaunay's scientific idea with the flow of industrialization, an open attitude not bound by a rule as an artist, an idea of Avant-garde, the comprehension of various colors and the understanding of the public. These factors lie at the bottom of her fashion design.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권6호
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• pp.581-588
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• 2007

The purposes of this study are to look into the formative characteristics of the miniskirt and to evaluate the visual effects and images according to changes in the silhouette and length of the miniskirt from analyzing the mini skirt style shown in 2007 S/S domestic fashion. The miniskirt style shown in 2007 S/S domestic fashion was analyzed with pictures from a fashion website "Interfashion Planning" from Feb. to May of 2007. As a result, the basic lines of the miniskirt are classified into two types according to the side line. The lengths of miniskirts are classified into five steps of 25 cm, 27.5 cm, 30 cm, 32.5 cm, and 35 cm from the natural waistline. The stimuli were produced with imaginative sewing system 3D CAD of i-design series. For the visual evaluation according to changes in the silhouettes and length of the miniskirt, we used 13 pairs of items to find the visual effects, and 23 pairs of adjectives to measure the visual images. The stimuli and adjectives were randomly given to the evaluators and were evaluated by the 7-point likert type scale. Data we got from this experiment was analyzed statistically by using the SPSS 12.0 and practiced the Factor Analysis and Correlation Analysis. Formative characteristics of miniskirts can be found in the lines, colors, and materials that are the elements of fashion designs, colors and materials are the characteristics of the cloth that is the medium of the expression of designs. The result of factor analysis of visual effects and visual images according to changes in the silhouettes and lengths of miniskirts, the visual effect was composed of the three factors of the length of the lower body, the thickness of the lower body, and the shape abdomen and it was showed that these three factors occupied 63.6% of the total variance. The visual image was composed of four factors of elegance, personality, attraction, maturity and these four factors got 67.6% of the total variance.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제50권6호
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• pp.55-64
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• 2012

This study aims to reinterpret formative elements of Baeja, by applying them to the design of modern clothing. The main objective of the studying Baeja is to propose unique layered look items that can be readily put together for various weather conditions and occasions, be easily wearable and bring out unique individualities. After carefully studying Baeja from Joseon dynasty, flexible and practical layered-look items are designed. The following are the conclusions drawn from the work. First, it is possible to apply Baeja elements, such as the silhouette, traditional materials, and colors, to modern clothes, for a layered-look. Second, Baeja characteristics have a profound potential for a modern layered-look design, in that it is sleeveless, its length is long at the front and short at the back, and it comes with slits on both sides and a wide belt. The items inspired by such characteristic can easily be worn over and draped around daily clothes, according to weather conditions and occasions. Third, many decorative elements of Baeja, including detailed ornamental method, knots, patchworks, and string decorations create a unique and traditional image in modern clothes. Ribbonswhich can adjust the width of clothes are both practical and decorative. A reversible jacket is created by utilizing the same traditional sewing method for both inner and outer fabrics. One item can be worn in different styles, which increases practicality. Fourth, traditional and modern materials go well together. Such methods can create an item with both modern sensibility and traditional chic.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권9_10호
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• pp.1485-1493
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• 2006

This study was to investigate the effect of different scouring methods on mechanical properties and appearance of lyocell. Two different scouring methods were adopted for the study; one was the traditional scouring with alkali and the other was enzymatic scouring. Enzymatic scouring was carried with four different enzymes; C1 : Cellusoft L, C2 : Cellusoft UL, D1 : Denimax 992L, D2 : Denimax Acid XCL. The mechanical properties of scoured lyocell were measured using KES-FB. The appearance of scoured samples was analyzed by 3D CAD SYSTEM of i-Designer. While the untreated fabric showed the best linearity because it is stiff, alkali treated samples showed the worst dimensional stability and distorted easily. Enzyme treated samples, especially C1 treated samples showed the best dimensional stability. In addition, enzyme treated samples showed low bending rigidity compared to the alkali treated samples. It means that the enzyme treated samples are more flexible than alkali treated samples. However, the smoothness of the sample's surface treated by either of methods did not show much difference. From the study, it was suggested that the enzymatic scouring for lyocell could help to gain natural silhouette.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.125-133
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• 2006

Metro-Sexual is one of the most representing case showing contemporary life style of men that rooted into public already. The fundamental feature of this Metro-Sexual is the conversion of men's costume style to womanness which also could be seen from the history of clothes. The former works about sexual image, expression of sexual identity, androgynous and borderless phenomenon have been referred as base of this work. To analyze Metro-Sexual in modern social/cultural factors through such existing works will be critical part of understanding entire fashion trend in this day beyond sexual limit. As research method, former works, references, various fashion magazines and fashion related sites was used to grasp conception and womanity of Metro-Sexual. In a limited time interval from $2001{\sim}2006$ for practical work, silhouette, detail, trimming, colors, items, patterns and accessories were analyzed selected from famous S/S, F/W men's fashion collection magazine and internet site of professional fashion institute. It is obvious that Metro-Sexual already spread out in men's fashion based on such social/cultural background as new century's icon that regarded as critical factor in researching contemporary men's fashion and of the future.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.183-196
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• 2016

The purpose of this research is to find out the characteristics of sexuality expressed in the contemporary modern fashion jacket, especially designer Thom Browne. Thom Browne is a very successful fashion brand that has focused on design of extraordinary theme. In the research methodology, the analysis was carried out over a total of 862 work pieces in the collection of S/S, F/W, RESORT, PRE-FALL from 2010 to 2016. The characteristics of the contemporary expressions of sexualities can be subdivided into four separate categories. First, The demolition is inflated retail, exaggerated shoulder silhouettes, such as short sleeve jacket is mainly used in the form of a women's match with each other and expressed by different materials applied to men. Female jackets are designed for the silhouette to highlight the strong masculine image to highlight additional detail on the chest or vice versa, to express women's jacket to distort the female. Secondly, Sensuality is designed the body of a male was represented by a design that gives a greater masculinity was expressed that the interpretation of the male gender in detail jacket sleeves and wrap the exposed areas of the important men of fashion. Women's jacket by using a see-through material, mainly sensory Castle outward to reveal the concealed body of the female form a natural curve shows the feminine sensuality. Lastly, Incongruity is inadequate representation by sex of clothing to match the jacket and skirt in women's wear it is also unsuitable for revealing gender as male by applying soot forms. The study attempts to find the meaning in that this presents the direction of the creative development of the modern fashion design based on the aesthetic characteristics of Thom Browne fashion appearing in the modern fashion.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.98-105
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• 2011

최근의 기술발달은 개인용 컴퓨터를 이용하여 실시간 영상처리 및 특수효과 처리를 가능하게 하였다. 본 논문에서는 개인용 컴퓨터를 이용하여 제작하고 시연한 실시간 인터렉티브 비디오 시스템을 기술하고 분석한다. 본 작품의 동기는 해변에서 파도가 부서지는 시각적 모습으로 부터 파도소리를 대체하는 사운드를 생성하고 자연과 하나가 되어가는 경험을 제공하기 위한 것이다. 이를 위하여 해변의 모습을 촬영한 실사 영상을 컴퓨터 비젼 기법인 옵티컬 프로우(Optical Flow)에 의하여 처리함으로써 프레임간의 변화에 대한 정보를 얻어 이를 카메라에서 실시간으로 캡쳐 받은 관객의 실루엣 이미지와 마스킹(masking)에 의하여 결합하고 그 결과를 프로젝터를 통하여 보여준다. 결과 이미지의 특성을 반영하여 미디 피아노 사운드가 함께 생성된다. 이는 하나의 인터렉티브 비디오 작품으로써 의도된 개념을 반영하여 상호작용 공간을 창출한다.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.515-527
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• 2014

This study is intended to develop the creative and high value-added products as well as the development of diversity for jump suit for the future by analyzing the trend and feature shown in jump suit in the modern fashion. In the research methodology, the analysis was carried out over a total of 351 work pieces on jump suit among those presented in the collection of Paris, Milan, New York and London from 2006S/S to 2013F/W as well as literature review. The aesthetic features on suit jump design introduced in the modern fashion could be characterized as the following. First, both upper and lower garments are composed with a simple array of items and the stress was put on modernity feature through minimal expression technique. The feature of solid simplicity was also given with achromatic color or neutral monochrome. Second, the feminity image was emphasized with adoption of such highlighting items as detailed add-ons, tops, camisoles and blouses that stress the organically curved streamline including silhouette, material itself, crease and drape that enable the direct and indirect exposition of human body and the expression of smooth curve in human body. Third, jump suit revealed the multipurpose feature as item available for the diverse wear such as working habiliment, sports wear, uniform, office wear and evening wear, depending on the terms and conditions. Fourth, the deconstructive characteristic appeared through integration with various items, destruction of formative structure, non-structural shape, and ambiguity in wearing method.