• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.145-162
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• 2019

This study reviewed photos of women's jackets shown at Milano Collections from 2013 S/S to 2017 F/W to identify the variations and trends in their structural components and design elements with respect to year and season. 576 photos, which consist of 276 S/S jackets and 300 F/W jackets by renowned Italian luxury fashion brands; Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Fendi, Max Mara and Jil Sander, were analyzed. Some of the highlighted findings are as follows; in the structural aspects, the H-line silhouette, below waist to hip line length, natural shoulder line and single button closure were the most frequently appearing components among all the jackets. For the design elements, the largest number of jackets was made of woven fabric in single color, while fur was mostly used in F/W seasons for its warmth, heaviness and bulky appearance. From the results, it was established that variations were made to the jacket components and design elements to the extent that they convey predominant jacket styles with a certain level of practicality and performance. However, the study also found that some of the jackets demonstrated design diversity and innovation by adopting daring styles, bold materials and colors. As the findings of this study identified the variations and trends in women's jacket components in recent years, they can be applied towards developing high end women's jackets to meet the demands and distinctive needs of luxury clothing buyers and distributors.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권2호
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• pp.95-108
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• 2019

This study aims to determine the characteristics of new senior women's torso shapes. The data was collected from the 7th Size Korea, which analyzed 412 women between the ages of 55-69. A factor analysis was performed based on 20 indices, including eight based on circumference, eight based on height and length measurements, and four based on torso flattening. The results of the factor analysis suggest five main factors: torso silhouette, longitudinal size of the body, torso flattening rate, abdominal shape, and posterior longitudinal size. The results of the cluster analysis suggest three overall types: Type 1 is the inverted triangular obese shape which is characterized by large breasts, small buttocks, a short height, and a forward-bending posture; Type 2 is the rectangular, slim shape which is characterized by a forward neck and a flat front and back of the torso, and is the most slender among the three types; Type 3 is the large rectangular, overall obese shape, which is characterized by a round shape with large breasts, waist, and buttocks, and a forward-bending posture with a protruding back, and this is the most obese type. According to the results of the cross-tabulation, women aged 55-59 showed no trend in body shape; women aged 60-64 showed an increases in the inverted triangular obese shape and the large rectangular, overall obese shape; women aged 65-69 showed an increase in the large rectangular, overall obese shape and a decrease in the rectangular slim shape. In summary, new senior women showed body shape characteristics of being short, more obese having, a bent over posture. As they grew older, the curves disappeared, and the body becomes rounder. The study found that variation in body shape exists among new senior women in the aged society.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.112-126
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• 2019

The objective of this study was to investigate visual elements of steampunk fashion and provide base line data for innovative fashion design ideas and products. We investigated design characteristics of steampunk fashion style shown in 3 movies and 3 animations. Based on the investigation, the research drew intrinsic value of steampunk fashion from three brands 'Vivienne Westwood', 'Dolce & Gabbana' and 'Alexander McQueen'. As the research analyzed movies and animations revealing steampunk style, various characteristics were found and assorted into similar categories. Subcategories of steampunk fashion are pluralism, rebellion and heterogeneity. The followings are result of analyzing three designer collection listed above. First, steampunk fashion made by designers used various color and materials to express multi-pluralistic(multiplicity) characteristic. Second, fashion style in collections revealed artistic and experimental design. This adventurous and innovative characteristic is categorized as rebellion feature. Third, steampunk fashion style used mix-match of unexpected materials or unbalanced silhouette to create a complete fashion style by combining styles in duplicity which could've lack harmony. Intrinsic value of steampunk is defined as graffiti of 19th century's science technology and utopia spirit. Longing for past and fantasy was expressed into fashion. Steampunk fashion wants to escape reality and tries to recreate history of the past faded away with technological development. It defines steampunk as freedom, deviation and fantastical utopia in positive point of view. Furthermore, aesthetic implication of steampunk style found in this research can make a boundary of steampunk style clear and become reference for future researches regarding steampunk fashion.

• 한국정보통신학회논문지
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• 제23권9호
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• pp.1082-1087
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• 2019

영상유고감지시스템은 터널 내 보행자, 낙하물, 정지 차량, 역주행, 화재(화염 및 연기) 등 돌발상황 시에 초동 감지 목적의 시스템으로 최근 도심지의 대심도 지하도로 건설에 따라 중요성이 부각되고 있다. 그러므로 영상유고감지시스템을 대심도 복층터널에 적용하기 위하여 복층터널의 설계 특성을 반영하여 개발하였고, 본 논문에서는 특히 기존 영상유고감지시스템에서는 지원되지 않거나 또는 오감지가 많아 복층터널 환경에 그대로 적용하기 어려웠던 화재 감지를 색 영상 분포, 실루엣 확산 및 통계적 특성 분석을 복합적으로 사용하는 방법을 제안하고, 이를 복층터널 테스트베드 환경에서 차량 실물화재 실험을 통하여 검증하였다.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제35권
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• pp.236-282
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• 2002

Among elements of play, there are puppets performances and shadows performance which are replacing actors by puppets and shadows. Puppet performance is characteristic of expressing various movements and symbols at its conveniences by the reduced models of human form with various materials. Shadow performance is realized in various colors that cannot be discovered in other countries by expressing mysterious cubic effect in reflecting the light against various forms. Mansukjung Nolum is a unique shadow performance that has been inherited in Korea. There are found many shadow performances inherited in the northern Europe and South-eastern Asia. Recently the silhouette animation in application of shadow performance is made. In the northern Europe and South-eastern Asia, they performed in white and black color while Mansukjung Nolum is performed in natural colors. Since they adopted the leather materials for making puppets, their opaque feature cannot reflect the colored light. But in Korea we adopted the specially colored semi-transparent Korean paper, which gives the colored shadows to spectators. Mansukjung Nolum consists of three acts for arousing attention of fallen monks destroying the teaching of Buddha. Seosanbakchumji Nolum is a puppet performance inherited in a village in Seosan, Choongnam instead of wandering artists. The story and form of performance in Namsadangpae's puppet play is mostly similar to it, but it is woven by its villages natural environment and specific dialects, reflecting their consciousness in mind. The villagers made the puppets and manipulate them in communicating their wisdom of life between them. Parkchumji Nolum is a kind of integral art combining puppet manipulation, witticism, songs and dances. The hero of Parkchumji discloses the social and structural conflicts of feudalism, in arousing the spectators' rich attention of self-awareness and lessons.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.109-119
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to examine fashion trends and the direction of the four fashion collections by analyzing the design key-words of the four major international fashion collections in 2018. The data of this study was collected by extracting the key-words from Marie Claire Korea in 2018, with the total of the collected data numbering 2,144. The data was analyzed by text mining using the R program and word-cloud, and a co-occurrence network analysis was conducted. The results of this study are as follows: First, the key-words of fashion collection designs in 2018 were fringe and ruffle detail, silk and denim fabric, vivid color, stripe and check pattern, pants suit item, and oversized silhouette, focusing on romanticism and sport. Second, seasonal characteristics of the fashion collections were pastel colors in S/S, primary and vivid colors in F/W. Details were embroidery and cutouts in S/S, patchwork and fringe in F/W. Third, the design trends of the four major fashion collections were presented in the Paris collection: stripes, check patterns, embroidery, lace, tailoring, draping, romanticism, and glamor. In the Milan collection, checks, prints, denim, and minidresses reflected sport and romanticism. The London collection included fringe, ruffles, floral patterns, flower patterns, and romanticism. The New York collections included vivid colors, neon colors, pastel colors, oversize silhouettes, bodysuits, and long dresses.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.59-66
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• 2019

The purpose of this study was to develop slacks pattern of elderly women aged over 60s by using the virtual twin and 3D virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; first, By using 3D Virtual Garment Simulation, new slacks pattern considered elderly women was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows, front waist girth W/4+2+1.5, back waist girth W/4+1.5+0.5, front hip girth H/4+0.75, back hip girth H/4+1.5, front crotch extension H/16-0.5, back crotch extension H/8-1.3, front dart amount 2 and back dart amount 1.5. Second, according to the results of the new slacks pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new slacks pattern is appropriate for the elderly women. Also, new slacks pattern was evaluated to allow proper space length of waist, abdomen and hip. Virtual models production through 3D body scan data, pattern draft and virtual garment digital program were applied to prototypic design method so as to enhance the fitness of ready-made garments. The use of the virtual twin made it impossible to comprehend the appearances and ease correspondent to motions. In order to evaluate wearing fitness, therefore, the system should be improved so as to change arm positions and perform various motions.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.13-26
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• 2019

In this study, Western-style first birthday clothing for girls from online shopping malls was explored. Specifically, clothing types, forms, colors, textiles, prints/patterns, and trimmings were examined. Using the keyword dol bok (meaning "first birthday clothing") and the search engines Naver and Daum, online shopping malls that sell or rent Western-style first birthday clothing for girls were found. From 15 online shopping malls, 317 dresses, 76 outers, and 69 bonnets were analyzed. The one-piece dress was the main item of Western-style first birthday clothing for girls. Most first birthday dresses were white or ivory in terms of color; other common features were the bell silhouette, a high waistline, a midi- or knee-length skirt with multiple layers, and bow trimming. The upper bodices of dresses featured round necklines without collars and sleeves, and the main textiles used for dresses were satin, lace, organza, and tulle. Two main types of outers were jackets and capes. Most outers were white or ivory and waist-length or shorter, with elbow-length or longer sleeves. Outers were typically made of fur, satin, and lace. Most bonnets were also white or ivory in color, made of satin and lace, and decorated with ribbon ties and frills/ruffles. Because a precedent study indicates that a monochromatic color scheme was the least favorite and that consumers want a proper fit and length-adjustable design, conclusions of this study point to the need for color diversification; color combinations for two-piece dresses, outers, and accessories; and lacing or shoulder snaps instead of zippers.

• 방송공학회논문지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.264-272
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• 2019

본 논문은 비디오로부터 추출한 프레임으로부터 3차원 인체 형상과 자세 복원을 수행하고 이를 시간 축에서 자연스럽고 부드러운 움직임을 나타내도록 보정하는 기법을 제안한다. 제안하는 기법은 우선 비디오로부터 추출한 개별 프레임으로부터 convolutional neural network을 이용하여 관절의 위치와 인체의 윤곽을 추정한다. 인체의 형상 및 자세는 매개변수 기반의 3차원 변형가능 모델(morphable model)을 2차원 영상으로 투영후 정합하여 최적의 매개변수 값을 추정한다. 이 때 각 프레임에 대한 복원이 개별적으로 수행되면 시간 축에서 자세의 연속성과 체형의 일관성이 보장되지 못하고 올바르지 못한 복원 결과가 나타난다. 제안하는 기법은 이러한 문제점을 보완하기 위하여 각 프레임으로부터 복원된 3차원 변형가능 모델의 주성분 매개변수의 분석 및 보간을 수행한다. 실험결과 3차원 인체 복원에 오류가 발생한 프레임에 대해 이전과 이후 프레임들 사이의 관계를 통해 오류가 보정되어 개선된 복원 결과를 얻을 수 있음을 보인다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.71-86
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to compare and analyze the Chinese robe styles of the Paris and Beijing collections from 2014 to 2018 to find the differences between the expressions of European and Chinese designers on the Chinese robe style. The methods of research were a literature review to derive the design analysis items of Chinese robe styles, and a case analysis. The results are as follows. First, both the Paris and Beijing collections showed an increase in use of Chinese robe styles year by year. Second, in the Paris collection, designs using qipao styles from the Republic of China era appeared the most among the robe styles of various Chinese dynasties. Qipao style appeared the most in the Beijing collection too, but the robe styles from the era of Pre-Qin, Qin, Han, Song, Ming, and Qing dynasties appeared more often than in the Paris collection. Third, in the comparison of silhouette type, there were mostly X-type silhouettes in the Paris collection and A-type silhouettes in the Beijing collection. As for neckline and sleeve type, both collections showed stand collars and tube sleeves. Fourth, in color comparison, there were mostly red-based colors in the Paris collection and blue-based colors in the Beijing collection. Fifth, in the comparison of pattern type, there were the mostly plant motif patterns in the Paris collection, and complex patterns in the Beijing collection. In conclusion, it was confirmed that the Chinese robe styles of the Paris Collection expressed a design fused with various styles due to the tendency to respect the diversity of various cultures and of the Beijing Collection emphasized the beauty and ethnicity of traditional Chinese clothing.