• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.242-253
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• 2015

The aim of this study was to use a 3D human body scanner to analyze the cross section of different body parts when a girdle is worn. Two types of girdles were selected as experimental garments: a standard type girdle (Garment A) and a high-waist type girdle (Garment B). Their sizes were 88 (S) and 94 (M). Ten female subjects in their twenties who wear girdles sizes 88 (S) and 94 (M) participated the experiment. Their bodies were scanned three times with the 3D human body scanner, before and after wearing experimental girdles. The data were collected by overlapping the cross sections of the 3D scanned body shape data. The space length was measured from the overlapped cross sections. The results show that human body silhouette are changed after wearing the compression type garments and the amount and place of the body change is different by style of garments. First, the waist girth shape became rounder. Second, there was a definite difference in space amount at abdomen girth between two types of girdle. The abdomen area was pushed toward the front after wearing the standard type girdle (A). The high-waist type girdle (B) pushed abdomen area toward the back. Third, there was clear difference at the hip area after wearing two types of girdle. The hip area pushed toward the front with the standard type girdle (A) and pushed toward the back with the high-waist type girdle (B).

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.28-41
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• 1986

In the history of costume, coat can be traced up to ancient Persia but it was generalized as today's style around 14th an d15th century in Euro[pe. World wars, revolutions and rapid social changes of the last 80 years have produced more changes in the way people dress than any comparable period in history. Thewse changes enabled emergence of more modernized woman's garments and through it, dress and coat ensemble became public's main fashion. In 1920's after world war I, boyish style in woman's garment was in vogue. Woman's coat was also in the same style with length sortened up to the knee level and silhoutte was straighter and semi-fitted than previous period. Length of the coat was longer in late 1930's but shortened again in 1940's. And the most popular silhouette of both 30's and 40's was shape of the hourglass which was commonly called the "X-shape". Also double=breasted coat with fitted waistline, belt and flare skirt was in vogue. In 1950's and 60's, with the variety of lines in woman's garments, silhouette of the coat also appeared in many different forms. Along with the various shapes, color of the coat changed throughout the decades : dark colors in 20's, bright colors in 30's, mixed colors of 20's and 30's in 40's and in 50's, color had changed to archromatic. In fabric, wool was most popular in all periods. However, such gabrics as tweed, cotton, gaberdine, linen were added to give variety. It is very interesting to see collars trimmed with expensive furs were very popular in 20's and 30's but it almost disappeared in 40's and fur trimming reappeared in late 50's. In addtion to silhouette changes in design, details such as buttons, epaulettes, pockets and fur trimming of hemline were emphasizing points of varieties in design. This study has set time limits world war I which was the period coat became major fashion of woman's clothing, to 1960's.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.72-82
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• 2012

The purpose of this research to look into formative characteristics of eco T-shirt design. Previous study researchers have mostly focused on overall eco fashion design, but on the other hand the research on eco product entity leaves much to be desired. We analyzed formative characteristics of eco T-shirt design that is easily accessible in real life and is easy to passing message. We selected 23 eco brands through internet and analyzed total 500 photos of eco T-shirt. Each photo was categorized by sex and the nations which belong to the eco fashion world associations. The content and statistical analysis was used for data analysis. The content of the research is as the following. First, it was found out that basic straight silhouette, achromatic color, human pattern, plant pattern, and eco-friendly organic material were used for the design of eco T-shirt. Second, it showed difference of silhouette, color, pattern according to nations. Third, it showed difference of silhouette, color, pattern according to sex. Fourth, symbolism of eco T-shirt was nature love, nature support, society ethicality, anti-sociality, and economics. This research aims for providing practical help and assistance to the development of eco T-shirt and its relevant industries.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.911-929
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• 2014

This study is designed to analyze the similarity of fit and appearance between 3D virtual torso length sloper with real torso length sloper according to three 3D virtual clothing simulation programs (Optitex, CLO 3D, i-Designer), three body types (A, N, H) and fit status. We selected three representative body type models of females aged 20~30 and got their direct body measurements. Using these body measurements, we developed three 3D avatar body models and made three torso length fitted sloper with long sleeves. Thirty expert fit judges consisting of technical designers and graduate students assessed the similarity of fit and appearance between 3D virtual clothing and real clothing by observing images classified into front, back and side scene. We conducted ANOVA and post-hoc analyses to compare fit and appearance between real clothing and virtual clothing depending on three program. The results showed that CLO 3D represented fit and silhouette most similarly among the programs, especially girths, width and length. i-Designer tended to be relatively good to represent stress fold amount and silhouette. Optitex was assessed relatively better in expressing ease amounts in torso girths and armscye girths, but relatively worse for width, length, stress fold amount and silhouette.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.11
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• pp.1399-1409
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to analyze the shape of gathered skirts using a three-dimensional measurement system. And in this experiment, I try to accumulate three-dimensional data of wearing model and to figure out analyzing method made by shape of clothes. The experimental design consists of two factorial designs. I set up three different kinds of fabrics, ratio of gathers. Therefore nine samples were made. The instrument and tools for three-dimensional measurement was whole body 3D scanner. Analysis program used in experiment is RapidForm 2004 PP1 and Pattern Design 2000. Data analysis utilizes SPSS WIN 10.0 Package. T-test to effect an inspection of evidence, there was difference about measurement times. One-way ANOVA to analysis effect of gather made by gathering conditions. The following results were obtained; 1. As a result of inspecting an error several times using a three-dimension measurement system, convinced data was obtained. 2. At front, distribution of gap amount was larger than back. And as ratio of gathers increased, distribution of gap amount showed regularly. 3. After analyzing horizontal sectional figure of skirts, as a height of skirt changed from waist to the bottom of skirts, the results showed as follows. While section width, section thickness, node width, node depth increased, node count decreased. 4. With the horizontal section levels of gather skirt, the silhouette on middle hip section was similar with the silhouette of body line. And as ratio of gathers around hip section increased, nodes showed regularly. At the bottom of skirts showed different nodes by different gathering condition.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.552-563
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• 2019

Jackets are regarded as an element used to judge ideas and fashion trends for the age in which they are presented. This article analyzed recent tailored jacket fashion trends by categorizing jackets according to design elements. For this, design elements of tailored jackets were categorized into silhouette, collar and lapel, shoulder and sleeve, and decorative elements. We collected and categorized the changes of 491 jackets that have appeared in collections over the past 5 years. The results showed shoulder and sleeve changes (36.25%), silhouette changes (33.4%), lapel and color changes (12.6%), decorative element changes (11.2%), and no changes (6.5%). Jacket forms with changed shoulders and sleeves appeared as styles that have laterally or vertically expanded the shoulder and arm hole with the production of various sleeve forms. Silhouette changes were expressed through forms such as exaggerated silhouettes of oversized-clothing, silhouettes made through cutting or layering, and the polarization of length. Forms with a changed collar and lapel appeared with polarization trends in which lapels dramatically grow larger or narrower, diverse frontal adjustments using no-collar designs, and the utilization of shawl-collars; in addition, forms with changed decorative elements were expressed with layered decorations such as pockets or collar add-ons, adjustment changes using buttons, ribbons or zippers, and various trimmings. The analysis results show that modern female tailored jackets are being made to realize an exaggerated physical beauty of shoulder, sleeve and torsos to maximize decorative effects through new attempts in design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.826-835
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to compare the similarity between actual and virtual pants using a virtual 3D CLO program. A subject corresponding to the average size of a women in her twenties was selected and an avatar with the same specifications was produced. Silhouettes of the pants were classified into trousers, slacks, and wide pants and images of actual and virtual pants were evaluated from the front, side, and back. The results were as follows: Overall, the resemblance of the trousers was evaluated higher than that of other pants. The average similarity of trousers was 4.20 at the front, 3.98 at the side, and 4.17 at the back, which was much like the actual clothing. In contrast, that of the slacks was 3.62, 3.73, and 3.79 and of the wide pants was 3.81, 3.53, and 3.97. The similarity between the actual and virtual clothing was relatively well reproduced when the shape of the pants was like the silhouette of the human body. However, if the pants were tight or loose, virtual fits failed to display the wrinkles caused by the tightness or the excessive slack. The virtual fit showed fewer wrinkles and did not depict the location and the shape of hemlines as accurately as the actual fit, although virtual fits adequately displayed the baseline and dart on the pants.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.228-247
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• 2023

In this study, an empirical analysis was conducted on the use of Korean design elements in the Hanbokwave project in 2022 in order to identify the expressed fashion characteristics and define Korean style. A case study was conducted on 98 items of clothing representing 10 Hanbok designer brands, and an analysis card was developed and used that classifies the silhouette of each item in detail. The analysis showed that in addition to the traditional skirt and Jeogori, the four stages of simulakr's image were prevalent in various fashion items such as shirts, blouses, jackets, crop tops, vests, dresses, and pants. In the composition of sleeves, many western clothing methods such as set-in-sleeve use and adjustment, hardcover buttons, and zippers were used to fuse the three-dimensional structure of western clothing and elements of traditional Hanbok to redefine it as postmodernism. It was recognized as a modern fashion, such as the trend of mixing and matching tops and bottoms, not a skirt and Jeogori set, by layering traditional clothes without hesitation or using them as a dress. As for the silhouette of the bottoms, the A-line showed a high frequency, and the prominent shape was identified as a traditional element widely used in modern Hanboks along with the element of wrinkles. This study is thought to be used as practical data for design development for the globalization of K-fashion in the future.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.117-133
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• 2022

In order to reflect traditional elements in modern design, designers should be able to creatively apply elements of traditional Chinese clothing. To understand this, a deep understanding of and insights into the traditional clothing culture are required. In this study, the characteristics of traditional Chinese women's clothing from the Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties of China to the Qing Dynasty were analyzed by dividing them into silhouette, color, pattern, materials, and detail. The characteristics of the silhouette were classified into A, H, X, and O types, of which types A and H were the most common. As for the color characteristics, there are relatively many five cardinal colors, and for the contrast of colors complementary colors were mainly used. As the for pattern characteristics, real patterns, animal patterns, character patterns, geometric patterns, and mixed patterns were used. Four types of materials were mainly used: silk, hemp, cotton, and wool. The detail characteristics were also anlyzed by classifying them into collar, sleeve, neckband, and gusset. Based on the results of this analysis, a satisfaction survey was conducted on the design of modern Chinese women's clothing. The result of satisfaction with design elements showed that the images of vest and suit were most preferred, H and X silhouettes, and yellow and white were the most preferred. Geometric and plant patterns were preferred, as were silk and acetate materials. Based on the result of chi-square analysis of design element preferences according to the characteristics of the subject, there was no difference according to occupation, residential area, or income, and there were differences in silhouette, color, materials, and detail according to age.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.1-16
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• 2024

This study aims to investigate the differences in blue jean styles and the visual images associated with them. To achieve this, literature reviews, case studies, and surveys were conducted. The results are as follows. 1) Based on previous studies, it was found that the design elements influencing the style of blue jeans and their visual images include waistline position, silhouette, details, decorations, and color. Additionally, differences in the preferences and visual evaluations of Korean and Chinese individuals regarding the style of blue jeans were confirmed. 2) Skinny blue jeans are typically characterized by a high waistline and a length that reaches the ankles, featuring a snug fit with stretchy fabric. Straight blue jeans, on the other hand, usually have a natural or high waistline and cover the instep, with a straight silhouette descending from the thigh to the hem. Bell-bottom blue jeans are primarily high-waisted and cover the instep with a silhouette forming a bell shape from the knee to the hem. 3) Korean and Chinese women in their 20s evaluated skinny, straight, and bell-bottom styles of blue jeans as having a 'casual' image. However, they also associated bell-bottom style blue jeans with 'unique' and 'attractive' images. Interestingly, Korean women described skinny-style blue jeans as making someone look 'youthful', while Chinese women perceived them as 'sophisticated', 'making the waist look thicker', and 'unassuming'. As for straight-style blue jeans, Korean women saw them as 'well-fitting', while Chinese women described them as 'making one appear taller', 'desirable', and 'free-spirited'.