Variety and individuality are characteristic of consumer in modern society. For the necessity of new designed men's formal suit is on the rise with advance of party culture and change of wedding style. In addition to growing numbers of Korean grooms are getting more interested in make themselves well-groomed on the wedding ceremony. The purpose of this study is to develop the men's formal suit pattern for right fit and better style for Korean grooms. In order to find out how to modify their fit, comparison among the existing patterns was necessary. In this study we proposed new patterns of men's formal suit, a morning coat, a tail coat, tuxedoes, director's suit, three-peaces suit, navy blazer. Considering the results of this study, developed patterns were altered to fit better and to smarter. They were well graded in waistline position, shoulder shape, back princess line shape. Also they were best to move around sleeve and bodice. And the developed patterns were altered to make armhole narrower to make bodice length shorter, to make bodice slimmer. The researcher's pattern's were made up into garments using wool 100%, silk 100%. According to verify the improvements and grade better in both appearance and comport, it will be to take the lead men's formal dress culture and expand the base of popular consume for men's formal wear.
The purpose of this study was to provide dress forms and jacket blocks for adult males based on the analysis of their somatotypes. As the result of the research conducted for this study that was based on 1290 males of 20 to 54 years-old, the shapes of adult male were 20 and each body shape was classified by size factor, height and chest girth. Also, master sizes were selected considering appearance frequency. XS type (master size: height 165cm and chest circumference 88cm), Yd type (master size: height 170cm and chest circumference 91cm), YI and AD2 types (master size: height 170cm and chest circumference 94cm) were selected to develop dress forms and their jacket blocks in this study. The procedure and results were follows; 1. The dress forms of XS, Yd, YI and AD2 types were produced base on means of 61 body measurements and cross sections of shoulder, chest, waist, hip of subjects belong to each somatotype. 2. New jacket blocks for XS, Yd, YI and AD2 types were developed based on the body surface developments through draping and the results of comparative investigation on the existing jacket blocks by wearing test. Also the drafting methods of new jacket blocks were provided. 3. The sensory evaluation by wearing test showed that the developed jacket blocks were estimated more highly in terms of chest's allowance, the front width's allowance, neck wrinkle, front allowance and overall appearance's fitness items than existing jacket blocks.
Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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v.23
no.1
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pp.91-102
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2018
The purpose of this study is to develop an excellent bodice prototype that is adapted to the body shape of middle-aged women using 3D measurement data. In the evaluation of appearance, S pattern 4.00, B pattern 2.80, E pattern 2.40, L pattern 1.40 were shown in order, and the best fit of S pattern was evaluated as excellent. As a result of looking at the color distribution chart to find out the amount, E pattern and S pattern were not space in the front bust, armhole, and the back waist line. The B pattern and the L pattern were marked in blue because of insufficiency space in the back neck. As a result of evaluation the amount of air gap in the clothing, the air gap of the bust was 0.12, which is the largest pattern of B. Next, the L pattern appears as a tight circle with smallest air gap in the order of the S pattern 0.096, the E pattern 0.08, and the L pattern 0.003. The S pattern was evaluated to be the most appropriate for the body shape of middle-aged women. But the waist and back were slightly tight. Middle-aged women have larger shoulder-related items and larger waist circumference. Therefore, when you set the perimeter item, you should add 1-2cm of space amount and give extra space to the circumference area.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.48
no.3
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pp.528-542
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2024
The aim of this study was to analyze and typify the body shape of tall women aged 20-69 using 3D measurement data from the 2020 8th Human Dimensions Survey data with greater than 165.0 cm in height defined as large stature. Each body type's characteristics were examined to derive points of differentiation compared to women of average body type. The analysis showed that as height increases, body height, length, and generally body circumference, thickness, and width also increase. However, taller women were found to have thinner waists, indicating a wider, flatter waist area. Waist circumference was also smaller, albeit not at a statistically significant level. Body shapes of adult women over 165.0 cm tall were classified into three types. The following body types were analyzed: thick ankles and drooping shoulders, thin and short torso, tall and long, long torso and thick ankles, large body circumference, thickness and width, normal torso length, and short stature and thin ankles. To develop garments for adult women over 165.0 cm tall, a new drafting method was required set the waist, knee height, and shoulder width.
It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the thirty pictures of Bud-dha to hang on the wall among the existing Buddist paintings. The costume to study were made about 64 years during the King Chung-yol(1286) to the King Chung-jong(1350) which style was mostly related in Won Dynasty. 가) Men's wear ; 1. Hair style and hair dress ; Man tied up a top knot and they put on the hat such as a Kuan Kun and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knot-s, and tied up with a hair ribbon, A kinds of Kuan-mo were Mine-lu-kuan Yuan-yu-kuan, Nong-kuan, Hae-chi-kuan Pok-du Yun-wha-kuan Yip-mo- and Tu-ku(Helmeto) 2. clothes ; 1) Colour of Koryo King's Mien-ku Kuan costume was not agree with blue and reddish black colour which was used in Yo, Song, Kum and Won Dynasty, however black and greenhish blue colour was agreed with. 2) The king wore T'ung-t'ien-kuan(Yuan-yu-kuan) and the government officials wore Chin-hien-kuan Hae-chi-kuan and Nong-kuan as a court dress. In general the king and the Crown Prince wore a hats which was used in T'ung-t'ien system however sometimes they wore small hats which was cited in literature. 3) Gate guard and upper garment wore colourful costume figured gold colour pattern which was distin-gtive costume system of Koryo. 4) A monk wore big sleeve long skirt big sleeve long jacket long skirt and shoulder scar-f full shoulder scarf or right hand shoulder opened scarf. 5) The Soldiers wore helmet shoulder or scarf pee-back hung-kap, pok-kap, yang-dan-g-kap we-yu-kap kun-kap, and boots and they carried arms. 6) The young boys wore scarf, loin cloth, long skirt, belt neckless, wan-silk, boots and foots wear and wristless. 나) Women's wear ; 1. Hair style and hairs and tied up with a hair ribbon and wore precious ston decorated hair dress wheel shape hair dress pan shaped head dress handkerchif covered hair dress decorated precious stone hair pin silk chippon made of head dress muf-fler shaped hairdress. Boots mocasin hae lee, suk and sandle wored as a shoes depends on the classes. They wore neckless, earing wres-tless and wan-pu-sik. 2. Closthe 1) High rank lade's wore un-kyun attached jacket and jacket sleeves decorated pleats and pleats decorated long skirt apron back apron knot belt, scarf this type is the same with Dang Dynasty five dynasty of china Song, Kum Won, Myung Dynasty and our cos-tume of Poe-hae, and Shilla Dynasty.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.22
no.3
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pp.99-110
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2020
In terms of junior high school girls' growth patterns during early adolescence, are unlike childhood when relatively balanced growth patterns are found and high school years in which the normal adult body type is nearly reached, growth patterns displayed are imbalanced and rapid. In fact, diverse size changes by body part growth occur significantly different from individual to individual. Therefore, it has been hard for junior high school students to select their proper size when buying school uniforms. This study attempted to acquire basic data needed to address adolescent body shapes and school uniform patterns for junior high school girls, using the data from the 7th Size Korea Survey (2015). Specifically, it provides basic data for the development of school uniform patterns through the classification of their body into particular types, After extracting body shape components and a cluster analysis using ANOVA. According to a factor analysis conducted to determine body shape components, six factors were obtained: Factor 1: bulk and horizontal size, Factor 2: body height and length, Factor 3: shoulder shape and length, Factor 4: shape of upper body, Factor 5: lower drop, Factor 6: upper drop with a variance of 81.46%. To classify junior high school girls' body shape and determine their characteristics, a cluster analysis was performed with the variables obtained using factor analysis. Body shape was classified into three different types: Type 1 accounted for 30.7%. This was a short, slender body with the smallest bulk, size, and upper drop. Type 2 accounted for 24.9%. This was the largest in bulk and horizontal size and highest and length as well. Type 3 accounted for 44.5%. This type was close to average in terms of horizontal size, length and height, and high drop values. To develop school uniforms with great accuracy and body fit for junior high school students, there should be further studies on changes in body shape and their causes. The study results can serve as basic data for comparing branded school uniform patterns for junior high school girls and developing school uniform patterns based on body shape, using 3D virtual clothing simulations.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.21
no.3
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pp.13-24
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2019
Adolescence is a transitional stage of physical development which occurs during the period from puberty to adulthood. Going through this period, various parts of an adolescent's body grow at different rates, leading to different body shapes and proportions when compared to adults. Therefore, this study aimed to investigate the body sizes and shapes of junior high school boys from ages 13-15 based on body measurement items that are used as the basis for school uniform designs including jackets, shirts, and pants. For this, the study sought the basic data needed to develop body shapes and school uniform patterns for junior high school boys using the data from the 6th Size Korea Survey (2010). Specifically, it provided basic data for the development of school uniform patterns that fit well through the classification of bodies into particular types. After extracting body shape componen a cluster analysis using ANOVA was performed. According to the factor analysis conducted to determine body shape components, 5 factors were obtained as follows: Factor 1: bulk and horizontal size, Factor 2: body height and length, Factor 3: shoulder shape and length, Factor 4: characteristics of horizontal size, Factor 5: shape of the upper body with a variance of 82.62%. To classify junior high school boys' body shape was determined using various characteristics, and a cluster analysis was performed with the variables obtained by the factor analysis. For this, body shapes were classified into 3 different types: Type 1 accounted for 33.4%, with a total of 463 subjects. This type was a tall, long body individual with the smallest bulk and size. Type 2 accounted for 22.7%, with a total of 315 subjects. This type was large in bulk and horizontal size, but the lowest in height and length. Type 3 accounted for 43.9%, with a total of 610 subjects. This type was close to average in terms of horizontal size, length, and height. To develop well-fitting school uniforms for junior high school students, there should be further studies on changes in body shape and their associated causes. The study results will be available as basic data for comparing branded school uniform patterns for junior high school boys and developing school uniform patterns based on body shape, using 3D virtual clothing simulations.
In the result of classification body types for 100 adult women by direct measurements and antropometric measurements, the mean of weight is bigger than he mean of weight of 97'. So modern 20's women is more than than 94'. In the result of factor analysis, 5 factors were extracted (horizontal sizes, vertical sizes, and degree of shoulder) from exponent sizes of the antropometric measurements item, and another 5 factors were extracted (thick of body, horizontal form of the torso, silhouette of the torso, and size of abdomen) from direct measurements item. The body types are classified into 4 types by cluster analysis in the result of direct measurement item, and another body types are classified into 5 types by antropometric measurement item, it was classified into the horizontal size and the shape and silhouette of torso, and by direct measurement item, it was only classified into the vertical and horizontal size. So for the patternmaking of clothing, it is more adoptable the classification of body by antropometric measurement item than direct measurement item.
This paper proposed a sizig system for men's jackets in order to improve the clothing fitness and rain the productivity. The sizing system was classified according to 3 age groups. Figure types were categorized by shoulder angle and body shape. The size interval of the basic dimensions was established at regular intervals centering around their means. Altogether, 15 size charts were developed based on the frequency distribution. Size designating measurements for jackets were height, chest girth and waist girth. Size intervals were 3cm for chest and waist girth, 5m for height, and 2cm for waist and hip girth. Considering the cover factor, charts with a limited number of sizes were suggested with necessary measurements for each figure type of each age group.
The purpose of this study is to provide basic information for elderly women's clothing construction and to develop dress form that can reflect the characteristics of their bodies. Three hundred twenty subjects, between the ages of 60∼85, were chosen and the data were collected from 59 anthropometric measurements of each subject. Data were analyzed by factor analysis of principal component model, cluster analysis, analysis of variance and duncan test. The results are as follows : 1. A decrease in height, an enlargement of the waist and abdomen area, and a dropped bustline are characteristics of elderly women. The upper-torso droops as a ge increase 2. Seven factors were extracted from anthropometric measurements. Factor components were obesity, height, shoulder shaper, the center front bodice length, the center back bodice length, the bust and neck shape, the degree and level of scapular protusion. 3. After analyzing seven factors, four types were categorized.
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