• Title/Summary/Keyword: shoal

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Damping of Water Waves over Permeable Bed of Finite Depth (유한한 깊이의 투수층에 의한 파랑의 감쇠)

  • Kim, Gun-Woo;Lee, Myung-Eun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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    • v.18 no.3
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    • pp.199-205
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    • 2012
  • In this study, wave transformation by damping due to the permeable bed of finite depth is investigated. The relationship between wave damping rate and relative water depth are presented. The damping rate is used in the eigenfunction expansion method to calculate the wave dissipation over the permeable bed. For a permeable shoal, the eigenfunction expansion model result is compared with that of the integral equation method to show good agreement. The model is also used to examine the wave reflection over the permeable planar slope of various frequency. It has been found that in general relatively short waves are more influenced by the permeability of the permeable seabed than relatively long waves unless the water depth is so large that the influence of permeable bed on surface water waves disappears.

Numerical Simulation of Irregular Waves Over a Shoal Using Parabolic Wave Model (포물형 파랑모형을 이용한 수중천퇴상 불규칙파의 수치모의)

  • 윤성범;이정욱;연영진;최병호
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.13 no.2
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    • pp.158-168
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    • 2001
  • A numerical model based on the wide-angle parabolic approximation equation is developed for the accurate simulation of the directional spreading and partial breaking of irregular waves. This model disintegrates the irregular waves into a series of monochromatic wave components, and the simultaneous calculations are made for each wave component. Then, the computed wave components are superposed to get the wave height of irregular waves. To consider the partial breaking of irregular waves in the computation the amount of energy dissipation due to breaking is estimated using the superposed wave height. The accuracy of the developed model is tested by comparing the numerical results with the experimental measurements reported earlier. In the case of non-breaking waves a considerable accuracy of the model is observed for both regular and irregular waves. On the contrary it is found that the accuracy is significantly degenerated for the case of breaking waves. Some analyses for the accuracy degeneration are presented.

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Characteristics of Seasonal Wave, Wave-Induced Current and Sediment Transport in Haeundae Beach (해운대 해수욕장의 계절별 파랑, 해빈류 및 퇴적물이동 특성)

  • Lee, Jong-Sup;Tac, Dae-Ho;Woo, Jin-Gap
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.19 no.6
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    • pp.574-585
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    • 2007
  • To analyze the incident wave characteristics around Haeundae beach the long-term deep water wave data computed by wave hindcast method were used and a continuous wave observation was carried out for 1 year at the 20 m of water depth in front of Haeundae beach. Wave observation data showd that the prevalent wave direction was SSW-S in spring and summer seasons while E-SE in autumn and winter. A numerical modeling shows that the waves from E-SE are refracted strongly due to the shoal developed at the south-east side of Haeundae beach. The simulation also shows inflowing nearshore current along the east coast of the beach develops strongly in autumn and winter. Radioactive isotope tracer experiment for 155 days indicated that the tracers moves to the on-shore direction in the 1st and 2nd tracking then dispersed to the E-W direction along the shore.

Strategy Prospects of Environmental Restoration of Stream Side in Japan(IV) (일본(日本)에서 계류변(溪流邊)의 환경복원(環境復元) 발전전략(發展戰略)(IV))

  • Park, Jae-Hyeon;Woo, Bo-Myeong;Lee, Heon-Ho
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Environmental Restoration Technology
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    • v.3 no.4
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    • pp.84-90
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    • 2000
  • The objective of this study was to introduce the current status and development strategy for an environmental restoration of stream side in Japan, and to consider a methodology which could be effectively applied for the environmental restoration of stream side in Korea. 1. In order to change the recent direction of the forest conservation and erosion control projects which are focused on the restoration of stream side ecology, we have to quit the past erosion control policy such as water control purpose, and establish new plans regarding on the forest conservation and erosion control which is considered the regional environmental restoration of watershed. 2. When we restore stream side and river side ecosystem, we should establish restoration plans which can keep the original nature of stream and river. 3. The forest conservation and erosion control construction projects for the restoration of stream and river ecosystem should be planned for the perfect restoration of their ecosystem by way of sustainable maintenance and management. 4. The restoration direction of stream and river ecosystem needs to be planned to restore the diversity of small geographies such as waterway, shoal and puddles rather than flattening of stream bed. 5. The main principle in the restoration of stream and river ecosystem is to accomplish forest conservation and erosion control construction projects which can conserve the existing stream and river ecosystem.

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A Study on Numerical Analysis of Thermal Stress for an Monolith Ceramic Heat Exchanger (일체형 세라믹 열교환기의 전산 열응력 해석에 관한 연구)

  • Paeng, Jin-Gi;Kim, Ki-Chul;Yoon, Young-Hwan
    • Korean Journal of Air-Conditioning and Refrigeration Engineering
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    • v.21 no.11
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    • pp.613-620
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    • 2009
  • The thermal stresses of a ceramic heat exchanger were analyzed numerically since the ceramic material is good in heat resistance but weak in the thermal stress. The analysis of thermal stress was conducted in the ceramic core with two boundary conditions depending on bolt jointing. The thermal stresses were computed by applying temperature and pressure distributions obtained from the numerical results of conjugate heat transfer to ANSYS WORKRBENCH. When number of bolt joining halls was reduced from $8\times2$ to $4\times2$, the maximum principal stresses decrease by 47.6~50.5% and increase in safety factors by 2.18~2.5 for ultimate tensile strength. Thus, it can be said that bolt joining halls should be minimized in ceramic heat exchanger to be efficient in reducing thermal stress. In addition, the width of particular gas flow passages were revised from 52 mm to 42 mm to reduce maximum thermal stresses since certain passages experienced high thermal stresses. From the revision, safety factors were increased by 13.8~14.1% for the boundary condition of $4\times2$ bolt joining halls. Therefore, it is suggested that thermal stress can be reduced by changing local geometry of a ceramic heat exchanger.

A Response of the Shoal of Chub Mackerel ( Scomber Japonics , HOVTTYUN ) to Underwater Sound (수중음에 대한 고등어 어군의 반응)

  • 서두옥
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Fisheries and Ocean Technology
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    • v.25 no.1
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    • pp.12-17
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    • 1989
  • A field experiment was carried out of confirm the effect of underwater sound on the luring of fish school of chub mackerel in the coast of Idousyo Island. Underwater sound that was made use of luring of fish school was pure sound and interval pure sound which the frequencies of the sound were 150Hz and 200Hz, respectively. The results of the observation of hooking and recording paper of fish finder indicate that the effect of emitting sound at 20m in the depth of water was remarkable for the luring of fish school of chub mackerel. The vertical pure sound pressure level at 150Hz and 200Hz of the water layer that was lured the fish school of chub mackerel were 140.1dB and 146.dB at 30m, 121.0dB and 126.6dB at 70m and 141.9dB and 120.5dB at 120m in the depth of water, respectively.

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Sedimentary Characteristics and Evolution History of Chenier, Gomso-Bay tidal Flat, Western Coast of Korea (황해 곰소만 조간대에 발달한 Chenier의 퇴적학적 특성과 진화)

  • 장진호;전승수
    • 한국해양학회지
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    • v.28 no.3
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    • pp.212-228
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    • 1993
  • A chenier, about 860 m long, 30 to 60 m wide and 0.6∼1.6 m high, occurs on the upper muddy tidal flat in the Gomso bay, western coast of Korea, It consists of medium to fine sands and shells with small amounts of subangular gravels. Vertical sections across the chenier show gently landward dipping stratifications which include small-scale cross-bedded sets. the most probable source of the chenier is considered to be the intertidal sandy sediments. Vibracores taken along a line transversing the tidal flat reveal that the intertidal sand deposits are more than 5 m thick near the low-water line and become thinner toward the chenier. The most sand deposits are undertrain by tidal muds which occur behind the chenier as salt marsh deposits. C-14 age dating suggests that the sand deposits and the chenier are younger than about 1,800 years B.P. The chenier has originated from the intertidal sand shoals at the lower to mid sand flat, and has continuously moved landward. A series of aerial photographs (1967∼1989) reveal that intertidal sand shoals (predecessor of the western part of chenier) on the mid flat have continuously moved landward during the past two decades and ultimately attached to the eastern part of the chenier already anchored at the present position in the late 1960s. Repeated measurements (four times between 1991 and 1992) of morphological changes of the chenier indicate that the eastern two thirds of the chenier, mostly above the mean high water, has rarely moved whereas the western remainder below the mean high water, has moved continuously at a rate of 0.5 m/mo during the last two years (1991∼1992). This displacement rate has been considerably accelerated up to 1.0 m/mo in winter, and during a few days of typhoon in the summer of 1992 the displacement amounted to about 8∼11 m/mo for the entire chenier. these facts suggest that macro-tidal currents, coupled with winter-storm waves and infrequent strong typhoons, should play a major role for the formation and migration of chenier after 1,800 B.P., when the sea level already rose to the present position and thereafter remained constant.

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Investigation of Characteristics of Rip Current at Haeundae Beach based on Observation Analysis and Numerical Experiments (관측자료 분석과 수치모의에 의한 해운대 이안류 발생 특성 연구)

  • Yoon, Sung Bum;Kwon, Seok Jae;Bae, Jae Soek;Choi, Junwoo
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.32 no.4B
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    • pp.243-251
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    • 2012
  • To investigate the characteristics of rip current occurring at Haeundae beach, observations obtained from a buoy and a CCTV were analyzed and numerical experiments were conducted. During observed rip-current events, the CCTV images showed that a couple of wave-trains, which are close to regular waves with slightly different directions, propagated to the beach, and wavelet analyses of data from the buoy showed very narrow-banded spectra with a peak frequency. From the evidences, it was inferred that a known mechanism of generating rip current due to the nodal line area of honeycomb-patterned wave crest was one of the significant factors of rip current occurrences of Haeundae beach. The mechanism has been explained by the following: When two wave-trains with slightly different directions propagate to a beach, wave crests of the incident wave-trains form honeycomb pattern due to nonlinear interaction. The nodal lines of honeycomb pattern are developed in the cross-shore direction. And longshore currents flow toward the nodal line area which has very low wave energy. Consequently their mass flux is expelled through the area toward the sea direction. To confirm the generation, numerical experiments were performed using a nonlinear Boussinesq equation model. In the cases with two incident wave-trains with slightly different directions and with a monochromatic wave propagating over a submerged shoal, it was seen that the honeycomb pattern of wave crests was well developed, and thus rip currents were evolved along the nodal lines.

The Effect of Skewness of Nonlinear Waves on the Transmission Rate through a Porous Wave Breaker (파형의 왜도가 투과성 방파제 투과율에 미치는 영향)

  • Cho, Yong Jun;Kang, Yoon Koo
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.29 no.6
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    • pp.369-381
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    • 2017
  • It has been presumed that highly nonlinear skewed waves frequently observed in a surf zone could significantly influence the transmission behaviour via a porous wave breaker due to its larger inertia force than its nonlinear counterparts of zero skewness [Cnoidal waves]. In this study, in order to confirm this perception, a numerical simulation has been implemented for 6 waves the skewness of that range from 1.02 to 1.032. A numerical simulation are based on the Tool Box called as the ihFoam that has its roots on the OpenFoam. Skewed waves are guided by the shoal of 1:30 slope, and the flow in the porous media are analyzed by adding the additional damping term into the RANS (Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes equation). Numerical results show that the highly nonlinear skewed waves are of higher transmitted ratio than its counterparts due to its stronger inertia force. In this study, in order to see whether or not the damping at the porous structure has an effect on the wave celerity, we also derived the dispersive relationships of Nonlinear Shallow Water Eq. [NSW] with damping at the porous structure being accounted. The newly derived dispersive relationships shows that the phase lag between the damping friction and the free surface elevation due to waves significantly influence the wave celerity.

Monitoring of Tidal Sand Shoal with a Camera Monitoring System and its Morphologic Change (카메라를 활용한 조석사주 관측시스템 구축 및 지형변화)

  • Lee, Soong-Ji;Lee, Guan-Hong;Kang, Tae-Soon;Kim, Young-Taeg;Kim, Tea-Lim
    • Journal of Advanced Marine Engineering and Technology
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    • v.39 no.3
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    • pp.326-333
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    • 2015
  • A tidal sandshoal, called 'Puldeung' in the Daeijackdo Marine Protected Area(DMPA), is facing erosion due to sand mining in the nearby coastal region. To monitor the morphologic change and erosion of Puldeung, a camera monitoring system was established at the top of Song-Ee Mountain in Daeijack Island. The system consists of 2 Cannon digital cameras, Eye-fi memory card/Long-Term Evolution wireless network, and solar power supply. The acquired camera images were analyzed to obtain the area of Puldeung by the following methods: geometric correction of image, identification of shoreline, areal measurement of Puldeung and its error estimation. To compare the Puldeung area with previously measured area of 1.79 km2 at tidal height of 137 cm in 2008 and of 1.59 km2 at tidal height of 148 cm in 2010, we selected images with same tidal heights. The Puldeung area was 1.37 and 1.23 km2 at the tidal height of 137 and 148 cm, respectively. The erosion at DMPA is very severe and thus it is imperative to initiate the morphodynamical study on the seasonal variation and long-term evolution of Puldeung as well as the causes and measures of Puldeung erosion.