• Tribology and Lubricants
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.122-128
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• 2008

To reduce the friction losses and the wear amounts in the piston assembly two methods were proposed. One is the modification of surface profile of the skirt part. The surface coating is another method to protect the sliding surfaces. To modify the profile of the skirt surfaces the surfaces were ground to have three different shapes of profiles. Also, several coatings, such as graphite, TiN, and $MoS_2$, and DLC, were used to protect the surfaces of the piston skirts. The specimens of the skirt and the cylinder bores were tested with the reciprocating wear tester. SAE 5W40 engine oil was used in boundary lubrication regime. Among several coatings the graphite and DLC coatings were very effective to reduce the friction forces. Especially, DLC film represented much better tribological performances than the others. The friction coefficient of the graphite coating was the lowest, but the graphite coating was not effective to protect the surfaces.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.21
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• pp.5-18
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• 1993

The purpose of this study is to identify the architectural construction of Balenciaga's works. He was perfectionist in tailoring which was based on architectural thought, and couturier who could design, cut, sew and fit a whole gar-ment. Balenciaga has never followed any fashion trend but his own. He designed from within himself, according to his own sensitivity to fashion. Like Chanel, he mad clothes in which women can be comfortable, move in, and get on and off with a minimum of effort. He ap-plied radical shapes to flattering ends, for his clothes echoed movements and gestures, never determined them. He achieved the perfect harmony between the body and the garment, freeing the spirit of the woman within. Reflec-tion his respect for women, Balenciaga never contorted or restriced their bodies. He did not depend on hoops and petticoats to hold out the skirts of his evening dresses but on well-balanced, architectural construction. Therefore in order to identify the architec-tural consturuction, this study hypothesizes (1) the effect of mass and volume, (2) the ef-fect of weight and support, (3) the effect of complexity and simplicity, (4) the effect of line and rhythm etc. The architectural beauty of form in Balenciaga's works are especially based on simplicity and support.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.61-70
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• 2004

The purposes of this study are to understand shapes, characteristics and source on the costume of musicians in Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner. Baekche accepted to incense burner as one of developed culture through exchange with China. Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner includes mixed Thought of Confucian, Buddhism and Taoism from China. The five musicians showed in Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner are symbols that include Confucian Ohang-thought and peaceful reign based on musical combination and arrangement. So, musicians in Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner to pray to God for Happiness showed as a kind of Genii. As a results of analyzing costume of musicians in Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner are as follows; Upper garments which open in the center front have wide sleeves and tie up in high waist position. Under garments are long and wide skirts. Those costume styles of musicians were to follow spreaded costumes in the Continent at that time. In conclusion, costume of musicians in Baekche gilt-bronze incense burner was showed to receive influence of costume style in China Whijinambukjo period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.6
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• pp.145-157
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• 2008

Vivienne Tam was born in mainland China and educated in Hong Kong and has worked mainly in New York. Within multi-cultural background, she has shown unique fashion designs where western styles and China esprit were harmonized.. This study analyzed the ethnic look featured on Vivienne Tam's design to identify how she has expressed her ethnic identity into fashion. Photos featuring ethnic appeal among her New York collection from 1996 S/S to 2005 F/W were analyzed in terms of shape/silhouette, color, fabric, motifs, detail and accessaries. She utilized frequently chinese motifs and patterns such as bamboo, panda, budha, flowers, letters, and masks. Secondly she modified the shapes of Chinese traditional costume like Quipao to render ethnic appeal. Color, fabric and detail like frog and embroidery also contributed to enhance China mood. Comparatively, she used western clothing items including shirts, blouses, skirts, pants, dresses, and coats and maintained the silhouette tight and fit so that most her designs look wearable and westernized.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.2
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• pp.40-54
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• 2012

The significance of this research lies in the analysis of that appears in the comedy . It also aims to propose conceptual and analytical costume designs that emphasize the formal aspects of play by reflecting on the comical elements simultaneously. , the subject of this study, was played on November 12, 2009 at the Small Theater (Dalohreum Theater) in the National Theater as a celebration of the 40th anniversary of Suwon Women's College. The costumes were designed by this researcher and were produced in collaboration with the Creative Performances Research Institute (Suwon Women's College). The comic elements were categorized into deconstruction, deviation and unexpectedness according to previous studies on the humorous nature of comedy, and their aesthetic meanings were applied to the costumes. The designs that reflect the comic elements are as follows. The costume design reflecting deconstruction is a way that disassembles and recombines constructive aspects of clothing. It consists of seam margins outside or just left disassembled without sewing, dismantling the boundary of outerwear and underwear. The costume design reflects deviation because reformed shapes of collars, the variation of length and closure of skirts deviate from the traditional style. These are designed by distorting traditional designs with deviation and transcend of tradition. The costume designs the reflect unexpectedness integrates both tradition and the contemporary, and use materials of diversity and heterogeneity, and these are composed of external formats the result from incongruity. Because comic elements are metaphysical concepts that carry meanings that are difficult to define according to the country and period, it is required to analyze, organize and utilize their characteristics and meanings of each period. Since this study analyzed the comical elements of a play and applied them to costume design, it is hoped that a follow-up study of analytical costume design is be done, and that more diverse and more creative costume designs are in the next generation.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.15-32
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• 2020

This study aims to develop contemporary fashion designs from the unique Yao minority costumes and to explore the possibility of developing creative designs by using knitting materials. The research method is based on the cultural clothing and costumes of the Chinese ethnic minority, as well as literature concerning the Yao costumes and photo data to investigate the cultural background and characteristics apparent in Yao costumes. The overall design characteristics of Yao costumes are as follows. First, the shape of Yao costumes are divided into straight-lined short tops with pleated skirts or shorts, or cardigan tops with pants and aprons, or long shirts, pants, and a belt. Each variant of tribal clothing is different. Second, the colors used are mainly black or dark blue, and these are accented by other colors, such as red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and white. Third, the clothing patterns are mainly in plant, animal, natural, geometric, and human, etc. motifs. The most common patterns in daily life are the patterns using geometric shapes, plants, or animals. Using the background of the unique lifestyles of the Yao ethnic minority, this study applied hand knitting and jacquard techniques for a knit fashion design. In order to develop traditional patterns, Yao patterns were entered into an Illustrator and SDS-ONE APEX3-4 was used for simulation. Using wool fibers as the raw material; the knitting machine used a Bird's eye Jacquard technique-10GG. The results of this research and design work were as follows. First, the knitted clothing design using Yao clothing elements has significance for the development and flexible use of ethnic elements in contemporary creative design. Second, the straight cut design using hand-knitted and jacquard-knit fabrics can minimize waste materials and provide more possibilities for sustainable design development. Third, it provides additional methods for the combination of hand-knitting and jacquard knitting fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.8
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• pp.1190-1201
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• 2008

The objective of this study is to compare and analyze middle and high school boys' and girls' uniform wearing conditions. The survey was conducted online and data were obtained from 907 middle and high school boys and girls. The results of this study are as follows. First, most boys and girls did not know their body sizes other than their height and weight. Second, when purchasing the school uniforms, over 70% of the boys and girls chose to try on the uniforms before their purchase and over 60% of the boys and girls had trouble selecting their sizes just by reading the labels. Third, both boys and girls considered the fit as the most important factor. When purchasing jackets, both middle and high school boys considered the shoulder width as most important. Middle school girls considered the jacket and sleeve length as most important, whereas high school girls considered the shoulder width, waist, and bust as most important. When purchasing skirts or slacks, waist girth was considered as most important. Fourth, boys repurchased more school uniforms than girls. Boys have outgrown their uniforms usually in the length categories, whereas girls have outgrown in the girth categories. Fifth, more girls(72.7%) modified their uniforms than the boys(56.8%). Boys usually bought bigger uniforms, modified them to fit and when they grow out of their uniforms they planned to modify their uniforms again whereas girls modified their uniforms to follow the trend. Sixth, the online shopping mall survey has revealed that both boys and girls liked the idea of 3D model that reflect their own body shapes, but they had low preference to purchase school uniforms online. Online purchase has been more attractive to the boys than to the girls, while the way of fashioning uniforms has been more attractive to the girls than to the boys.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.902-915
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• 2007

This study examines decorative features found in the traditional costume of the Miao, one of the minority groups in China, and adapts them for the development of modern Korean-style fashion designs in order to present visual sample data and to introduce techniques. As for the research method, both literature and visual data are examined: the former includes Miao-related books and theses; the latter, pictures from various documents and real-life data in the possession of Seoul Women's University. The study result is as follows: 1. The basic structure of Miao costume is consist of a Caftan-type upper garment and an accentuated lower garment, pleats skirt although they are decorated luxuriously with various techniques such as delicate embroidery and dyeing. 2. Details and trimmings in modern shapes are developed and presented by adding modern materials to satin, twists, cross-stitch embroidery, stripe patterns, geometrical patchwork, machine pleats and smoking, trimmings of fringe & feather, and the border line decoration of coloration, braids, piping, embroidery, belts tied and wound with colorful threads. 3. Detachable accessaries such as front reinforcement strips, back reinforcement strips, belts, decorative aprons and patchwork skirts are developed and designed by adapting highlighted layered effects. 4. The silver decoration used as an necessary by the Miao is suitable for modern fashion design in futuristic sense. Various techniques and decorative features of Miao costume display their true value all the more in modern fashion stream in which ethnic trends draw much attention.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.43-59
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• 2010

In the first half of 20th century, there was an abrupt change in society and social values. Therefore, a demand for functional women's sportswear started to increase. This paper has attempted to investigate the impact of functionalism on women's sportswear in the first half of the 20th century. The following results were obtained: First, anti-tradition was observed. There was a tendency to be separated from the past and against tradition. It was tried to pursue freedom, getting away from corset and petticoat. Second, structural functions were targeted. In other words, precise and efficient shapes and simple silhouette and line were emphasized. Third, fitness of purpose was found. More liberal and comfortable design has been targeted. That's why a variety of functional pants have been designed instead of skirts. Fourth, utility and practicality were found. Elastic fabrics such as wool and jersey and sweater have commonly used in sportswear. A variety of new fabrics have been used and details such as flare, slit and pleats have been designed. Lastly, non-ornamentality was found. The beauty of simple shape was pursued by omitting details or eliminating unnecessary ornaments. Monochrome and dark color were preferred and a use of accessories has declined. The result of this paper could be used in establishing a theoretical framework on the impact on social change, values and art and helpful In modern women's sportswear design and marketing which have become more important.